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E34 (1989 - 1995)

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  #1  
Old 01-02-2014, 05:35 AM
jnrlaw83 jnrlaw83 is offline
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Location: Atlanta GA
 
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Mein Auto: 1995 525i
1995 525i Crank but no start.

I have a problem and all my searching came to no avail. I have a 95 525i pre EWS and it wont start. A few months ago my water pump went taking the belt and fan shroud with it. I changed them and the car started fine and ran like it normally would. Got home later that night, parked the car for about 4hrs then went to start it and the battery was dead. No big deal I though just some serious bad luck. Got the car jump started the next day drove it to the gas station turned the car off to fuel it up but was at a pump that didn't work so I tried to start the car to move it but no luck. The car would crank but wont start. Shot some starting fluid into it at the gas station to see if I could diagnose the problem before tow truck gets there and the car started ran horribly then died so I guessed fuel delivery issues. I did what most knuckle head know-it-all's do, assumed fuel pump before trying to do a full diagnostic. New fuel pump no start. Still being hard headed ordered fuel pump relay main relay and crank sensor (went credit card crazy)... NO START. Now I decided to think a little. Tried a stomp test but with KOEO no CEL at all! Went forum and google hunting and was told to check the DME. Had a good one already because the previous owner said the owner before him chipped the car so I got a spare DME just in case because I didn't know what kind of chip and I didn't want to rake any chances. Changed the DME CEL lit up, stomp test yielded a 1000 code but still no start. Started to use my head and Bentley some more and the results are. No power to fuel pump, or fuel pump fuse except if you jump the relay. jumped the relay and still no start. checked the old and new relay, and both were good checked the voltage out of the DME relay and it was good. Now I'm stuck and need help PLEASE!!!!!!!!!!
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  #2  
Old 01-04-2014, 12:56 PM
jnrlaw83 jnrlaw83 is offline
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Location: Atlanta GA
 
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Mein Auto: 1995 525i
did some more diagnosing and fuel pump relay is getting power bot not being grounded by dme! why would that be?
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  #3  
Old 01-04-2014, 03:16 PM
imae34driver imae34driver is offline
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Location: Orange County , CA
 
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Mein Auto: 1995 540i SPORT /6 spd
That would likely be a DME issue.. As thats the DME's control mechanism..

Odds are that bridge is fry'd.. Try a known good part, before purchase if possible..

You can hot wire a fuel pump to verify that its a power issue only.. Or to get home
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1995 540i /6 speed.Black on black. C.A.I/JBR LWFW/ Dinan tune/hi flow exhuast /545 SSK /3.15 with LSD / rev-shift racing motor mounts/stage 4, 6 puck clutch/ K Sport coil overs / 19" BBS LM's / suede sparco 368 steering wheel, Recaro bucket seats, sparco 4 point harnesses, NX wet kit, M/T drag slicks
"Skill can only get you so far, then comes money!"
R . I . P Paul Walker - 1973 - 2013
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  #4  
Old 01-05-2014, 03:22 PM
jnrlaw83 jnrlaw83 is offline
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Location: Atlanta GA
 
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Mein Auto: 1995 525i
Now on DME #3 (Borrowed) Fuel pump relay socket getting power being grounded but still no power to fuel fuse when relay in and car cranked.... swapped relays and still no juice.... I am more than confused now.
I can jump the wires and make the fuel pump run but still no start.
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  #5  
Old 01-05-2014, 04:22 PM
BMR_LVR's Avatar
BMR_LVR BMR_LVR is offline
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Location: Asheboro, NC
 
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Well, I had a nice response all typed up with a bunch of links about the EWS problems and decided to re-read the OP. Glad I did.

You state that you have a 95, but pre-EWS. Iím confused by this. Even if itís not EWS II (which it should be unless it was manufactured prior to 1/95), it would be EWS I. What is the mo./year of manufacture of your car? Itís on the plate on the door jam on the driverís side. If itís 1/95 or later, you have EWS II.

You said that the original DME that you had was chipped. What color was the DME label (silver or red) and do you know what type of chip was in it? Silver label DME means it was EWS II and the PO may have put in a EWS delete chip.

Was the CPS you got an aftermarket sensor? I have heard that some of the aftermarket ones donít work well. If you bought aftermarket, you may need to consider getting an oem CPS. Have you checked the resistance to your old one? It should be 540 +/- 10%, not 1280 as the Bentley states. They had a typo. If you have not already done so, you really need to determine if you have spark.

No-starts in a 95 model can be a MAJOR headache. I hope we can collectively help you get it going.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noego View Post
It's Deja Poo - as in, I've heard this **** before.
Steve

Calypso Red 1992 525i with 200K miles

1991 735i - Sold
1992 525i - Sold
1995 325is - Sold
2000 528i - Sold

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  #6  
Old 01-05-2014, 07:00 PM
jnrlaw83 jnrlaw83 is offline
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Location: Atlanta GA
 
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Mein Auto: 1995 525i
The Manufacture date is 6/94 so I guess that makes it pre EWS II (which is what I meant to say lol). The DME has a red label on it and the person I bought the car from said the owner before him chipped it and that's all he told me. I bought the cps from o'reily's and was considering getting one from the dealership but from what I've read with a bad cps the dme wouldn't ground the fuel pump relay. What really has me is every thing I checked points to the relay... I'm getting battery voltage at terminal 86 and 30. I checked terminal 85 and 86 with the car being cranked and I get around 11.5V which I assume would be enough to energize the relay.
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  #7  
Old 01-05-2014, 07:23 PM
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BMR_LVR BMR_LVR is offline
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Ok. You have EWS I then, but again, I don't think that the EWS is the issue since your engine spins over.

IIRC, you have replaced the fuel pump, fuel pump relay, DME relay and DME and you installed a non-oem CPS. Do you by any chance know anyone near you who has a working CPS for the M50 engine? Are you sure that you plugged the new CPS in and into the correct harness connector? Please don't be offended by this question because when I had a notorius no-start on my 95 325is and had to do the EWS bypass, I initially failed to plug the CPS back in after replacing it with a known good one. Simple mistakes happen. I would not want you to purchase a new oem CPS just because the one you have is non-oem. However, I do suspect that the non-oem CPS is not sending a signal to the DME. The fact that you have tried 3 DMEs should rule that out as the problem unless there is some sort of problem in the wiring. I doubt that's it though.

Did you check the resistance on the new non-oem CPS? If it is within specs (540 +/- 10%), then you should check the gap between it and the toothed wheel which should be 1.0 +/- 0.3 mm (0.04 +/- 0.01 in.) Perhaps the gap on the non-oem unit is too much

Have you checked fuses 1, 17 and 20? They are associated with the DME.

I'm trying to think of things that you can check without having to buy parts.

Noel (supertech777) had a problem with his ignition switch/column that caused a no-start as well. I'm not familiar with that aspect, but I'm sure he could help you if you think this is a possibility.

Good luck. Hope some of this helps.
__________________
Most problems are usually something simple !

Quote:
Originally Posted by noego View Post
It's Deja Poo - as in, I've heard this **** before.
Steve

Calypso Red 1992 525i with 200K miles

1991 735i - Sold
1992 525i - Sold
1995 325is - Sold
2000 528i - Sold


Last edited by BMR_LVR; 01-05-2014 at 07:24 PM.
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  #8  
Old 01-06-2014, 07:19 PM
jnrlaw83 jnrlaw83 is offline
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Location: Atlanta GA
 
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Mein Auto: 1995 525i
Question

just checked the cps resistance....982 ohms ..... one thing has me puzzled though. Why am I getting voltage at the relay's terminal if the dme is not supposed to be sending a signal with a bad cps?
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  #9  
Old 01-06-2014, 07:45 PM
BMR_LVR's Avatar
BMR_LVR BMR_LVR is offline
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Location: Asheboro, NC
 
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Mein Auto: 1992 525i
1995 525i Crank but no start.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jnrlaw83 View Post
just checked the cps resistance....982 ohms ..... one thing has me puzzled though. Why am I getting voltage at the relay's terminal if the dme is not supposed to be sending a signal with a bad cps?
I wish I could answer that but unfortunately electronic stuff is pretty much my Achilles heel.

That CPS is out of spec for sure :thumbdown: Get an oem one and the car will likely fire up.


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__________________
Most problems are usually something simple !

Quote:
Originally Posted by noego View Post
It's Deja Poo - as in, I've heard this **** before.
Steve

Calypso Red 1992 525i with 200K miles

1991 735i - Sold
1992 525i - Sold
1995 325is - Sold
2000 528i - Sold

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  #10  
Old 01-07-2014, 04:59 AM
Mamij Mamij is offline
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Mein Auto: BMW 320i M52 1996
Hi OP,

Sorry for the late response. Just got back from Aruba. Lets help you start off the year.

Please see this link and go through it in detail. It has just about all the E34's no-start and no-start/no crank issues listed according to probability of occurrence, including the rare ones. Please use this to troubleshoot.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...4#post26033324

However, as per Steve's most excellent intuitive direction, you have probably found the culprit. Amazing that a new cps (oem or not) has the wrong resistance. Did you purchase it for the right car/engine ? Double check that.

If you screwed that up on your end, then please learn from this unforced error. Slow down, and always take a few extra minutes to double check components where possible even when new, and to double check repairs before calling it sorted. Difficult to do this when you are eager to have the problem fixed. You need to integrate the right diy habits first if you intend to be the point man for your car's repairs. You are not a mechanic so mechanicking is never going to be as intuitive as it can be, so you need to use conscious habits to compensate.

rgds,

Mario

p.s. btw....11.5 volts is too low for your battery, or for any terminal anywhere in the car that should be reading the battery's direct voltage. Your cold voltage should be 12.6volts, and idle voltage should be anything from 13.5-14.2 volts with no electrical load, and up to 0.7 volts lower with full load (high beams and low beams on, hazards on, stereo on, etc). Voltage at high / very high idle should not exceed 14.2 volts no matter what the load. Check the relay's connector for corrosion or loose wiring underneath. Check that relay - swop in another identical one from elsewhere. Be careful when you are testing live current - a short to ground will cause a spark.
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  #11  
Old 01-07-2014, 09:31 PM
jnrlaw83 jnrlaw83 is offline
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Location: Atlanta GA
 
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Mein Auto: 1995 525i
Thank you all so much for your help and insight. Unfortunately after replacing the crank sensor the car still wouldn't start (I would be lying if I said I wasn't beginning to be frustrated). Anywho, after I replaced the crank sensor, I started to look at one of the areas that puzzled me the most, the relay socket. With the relay out of the socket, everything checks out. Battery voltage at terminal 30 with key off or on, battery voltage at terminal 86 with key on and terminal 85 is grounded with the key on BUT with the terminal installed I get no voltage reading from terminal 86... so the relay doesn't energize.

I just got in and saw Mamij's post so I'm going to read up on the link and see what I can find.
the car has been parked since October and the low Batt Voltage is from all that cranking.
(on a side note the low coolant warning is on but the reservoir is full so I'm guessing a new sensor is in order but I don't think that's cause my no start issue would it?)

(You know what you guys might find funny and I'm ashamed to admit, I have my ASE certification in electrical systems among a couple others...SMH)
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  #12  
Old 01-07-2014, 09:46 PM
imae34driver imae34driver is offline
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Location: Orange County , CA
 
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Mein Auto: 1995 540i SPORT /6 spd
Check your CTS...

I remember back in school there was a no start in relation to that, i remember becuase it was pointed out how over looked it can be. Usually i dont think it can create a no start. But potentially i kahoots with another sensor or somthing..

Also EWS, car will crank like a mother but not spark!

When i went 484 to 404 DME i tryd to start it. Cranked over hard!

Cut the #10 green wire i believe, VROOM..

So dont rule out EWS. I then put a dinan chip in bsckwards lol.. Same no start..

Flipped it around, vroom!
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1995 540i /6 speed.Black on black. C.A.I/JBR LWFW/ Dinan tune/hi flow exhuast /545 SSK /3.15 with LSD / rev-shift racing motor mounts/stage 4, 6 puck clutch/ K Sport coil overs / 19" BBS LM's / suede sparco 368 steering wheel, Recaro bucket seats, sparco 4 point harnesses, NX wet kit, M/T drag slicks
"Skill can only get you so far, then comes money!"
R . I . P Paul Walker - 1973 - 2013
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  #13  
Old 01-08-2014, 08:56 AM
Mamij Mamij is offline
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Well OP, its too bad that your CPS is not the cause of the problem but you've eliminated one of the 3 common no start stooges for this car so take heart. And you might have more than one issue on your car by now. In fact you probably have 3 : a bad cps, bad relay socket wiring, and wet plugs or washed combustion chambers. Please read on.

[ Another reason why you've not gotten this car up and running is because you're not focused on it. You're dragging it out over months. Unless you're a seasoned wrencher, you're going to need instincts heavily, and instincts tend to hit you more when you're with the car in a sustained burst than not. That being said, its good to take a break when needed but not more than a day or two. ]

Lets come to why your car is not starting. From your description, its the wiring under the fuel pump relay's sockets. The wiring is busted. When you insert the relay, it pushes the wiring out of contact with the socket's spades. No current energises the fuel pump - the car does not run. When the relay is lifted up, the wiring returns to its original position and reestablishes contact. Something like that. { All this assumes your relay itself is working of course. }

Roberto had this particular issue and he posted the solution.

Many a relay problem has been fixed in 10 minutes on the spot by manually pushing the relay socket's wires up into the socket further, by cleaning the socket's spades with contact cleaner and a toothbrush, and by securing the relay and its socket together with a cable tie or a rubber band. Silicone sealant can be used to 'fix' the wires up into the bottom of the relay more firmly. Use high temp clear silicone sealant only (not gasket sealant).

The socket itself can be pulled off its holder if there is enough slack from its wires below. This is certainly true for the fuel pump socket. Look at it carefully and you'll see how - the white casing will slide out you might have to release a tab there can't remember but look at it closely and you'll see.

You did not mention if the car runs with the new cps, when the fuel pump relay is jumped with wires. If it doesn't, then you've probably got wet plugs from all that cranking (considering your battery has nearly conked out). In that situation, you'll need to ventilate and perhaps even re-oil your chambers to get the car running. Please read this post in detail, from somewhere in the middle :

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...91&postcount=7

Good luck.
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  #14  
Old 01-08-2014, 09:34 AM
jnrlaw83 jnrlaw83 is offline
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Thank you for the suggestions Mamij. I checked the voltage to the relay from under the harness with the relay plugged in to eliminate the possibility of the wires being loose as a possibility. As for the spark plugs, I did change them the day before but I'll check them again today to see if they are wet.

(It was only parked for a while because I never got time to look at it because I'm at work from sun up till sun down and since the car was parked outside and I don't see to well in the dark...need glasses... and whenever I was off on a weekend, it rained...but I have some shelter for the car now with okay lighting so I'm using my sleep time to wrench on it... who needs sleep anyway?lol)

but again to the realy, I made some extension wires with male and female end connectors to plug up the relay so I could test it remotely that 's how I discovered I was getting voltage at the terminals with the relay out and none with it in. (Tested it like 5 times to be absolutely sure both from the top and the bottom of the harness).

Car does not run with new crank sensor and relay jumper switched on even though I can hear the pump....

Another thing I was concerned about and probably should mention is that whenever I reconnect the battery, the hazard lights flash. Is that normal? because of all the cars I've been through I've never seen that.

Well took off from work today so I'm gonna be checking your suggestions and backtracking to see if there's anything I missed because I'm not ruling out human error.

Last question (for now), I've read on another post on this site of someone with an E36 with a similar issue and he reset the DME the car started, Is that worth trying?
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  #15  
Old 01-08-2014, 10:31 AM
Mamij Mamij is offline
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Please compensate for cylinder wash. This has to be it. See the link in my preceding message.

------------------

Secondly please disconnect the engine coolant temp sensor under the intake manifold in the cylinder head. Leave it that way from now till the engine eventually starts. It might be damaged and over fuelling your car in cold starts. Unplugging a good sensor does not affect a startup. The sensor is usually blue tipped and closest to the front if the engine.

Before unplugging it do a stomp test and pull out your error codes. Details on this test in YouTube.

Make sure you have not mis connected anything.

Please go through the no start list in detail. And no there's no way to reset the DME to start the engine they probably meant clearing error codes but that does not apply to starting the engine.

And henceforth leave the relay socket jumped when you are starting the engine remove the jump when not if not your battery will be drained further.

Hold the throttle wide open whenever attempting to start the engine.

Good luck.
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  #16  
Old 01-08-2014, 12:20 PM
jnrlaw83 jnrlaw83 is offline
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Location: Atlanta GA
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
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unplugged the sensor and vehicle only wants to start with starter fluid not hearing the fuel pump come on... jumped the relay and still nothing.... battery dead now and I'm super frustrated so i have to stop for today....
about the flashing hazards, unplugging the crash relay and plugging it back in stopped it. Another thing that has me worried is a buzzing sound in the dashboard area with battery connected an key out.
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  #17  
Old 01-08-2014, 12:45 PM
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BMR_LVR BMR_LVR is offline
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Location: Asheboro, NC
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jnrlaw83 View Post
unplugged the sensor and vehicle only wants to start with starter fluid not hearing the fuel pump come on... jumped the relay and still nothing.... battery dead now and I'm super frustrated so i have to stop for today....
about the flashing hazards, unplugging the crash relay and plugging it back in stopped it. Another thing that has me worried is a buzzing sound in the dashboard area with battery connected an key out.
If the car will run on starting fluid, then you have spark. Your problem is fuel delivery. Have you changed the fuel filter? Have you checked for fuel pressure at the rail? Do you have gas in the car (not a crazy question here - people have been known to let it get empty)?

Keeping a car running on starting fluid is hard on the engine. As an alternative, you can take the intake boot loose, pour a small amount of gas, and the re-connect the intake boot when you attempt to crank it.

It seems that you have narrowed the problem down to fuel delivery now so getting it going should be much easier now. I recommend that you put a charger on that battery to bring it up to full charge.


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__________________
Most problems are usually something simple !

Quote:
Originally Posted by noego View Post
It's Deja Poo - as in, I've heard this **** before.
Steve

Calypso Red 1992 525i with 200K miles

1991 735i - Sold
1992 525i - Sold
1995 325is - Sold
2000 528i - Sold

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  #18  
Old 01-08-2014, 02:05 PM
jnrlaw83 jnrlaw83 is offline
"I wanna go fast"
Location: Atlanta GA
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 22
Mein Auto: 1995 525i
Quote:
Originally Posted by BMR_LVR View Post
If the car will run on starting fluid, then you have spark. Your problem is fuel delivery. Have you changed the fuel filter? Have you checked for fuel pressure at the rail? Do you have gas in the car (not a crazy question here - people have been known to let it get empty)?

Keeping a car running on starting fluid is hard on the engine. As an alternative, you can take the intake boot loose, pour a small amount of gas, and the re-connect the intake boot when you attempt to crank it.

It seems that you have narrowed the problem down to fuel delivery now so getting it going should be much easier now. I recommend that you put a charger on that battery to bring it up to full charge.


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Have a quarter tank of gas in the car... fuel pump only runs when the relay terminal is jumped. Relay terminal gets voltage at terminal 30 and 86 with relay unplugged but with the terminal plugged in and tested at the harness, I get no power to terminal 86.... other than DME (which i think powers that terminal) IDK what else to look at.
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  #19  
Old 01-09-2014, 06:12 AM
Mamij Mamij is offline
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OP,

About this time last year, there was a guy with a 540i who spent 6 weeks
doing everything under the sun on a daily basis to fix a no start issue.
It was a great educational thread for us but he did not have fun
himself. The problem was traced to cylinder wash ( or bore wash) caused
by a busted engine coolant temperature sensor (ects).

Now get this. Bore wash had been suggested to him less than a week into
the game but he took 6 weeks and went through all kinds of other
difficult stuff daily before trying out this suggestion and finally
starting his engine.

You are doing the same thing here OP. You are complicating a very
straightforward issue. It is a very straightforward issue by now - you
have checked everything and you are a certified tech as well.

Remember, we have seen every damn thing over the years pretty much.
That's why we can come up with detailed no start lists and can help you
lock onto issues fast. And that's also why we get an instinct as to when
operator error is messing with the fix, due to anxiety, inexperience,
exhaustion, discomfort caused by weather (we have tustled with issues in
arctic temps before) or the simple fact of working alone without the
benefit of another pair of eyes (even untrained ones).

We are all human. However being human merely mitigates but cannot ever excuse failure. Not if you are driving a BMW in general, and an E34 in particular.

I am taking a harsher tone because everyone being too nice contributed greatly to the other dude going on for 6 weeks before he finally took our
suggestion given much earlier and solving the problem. I remember now
that he thought he had read something new and relevant elsewhere on the
net but in fact it had been suggested clearly to him much earlier. He had great confidence in his capabilities but his instincts from elsewhere did not translate well to the car. You too are an expert tech and are probably victim to this psychology. So we have also learned from our mistakes in interacting with people in such situations as well.

----------------------------------

If fuel delivery was the problem, with starting fluid, your engine
should actually start, not *want* to start. That's because starting fluid
is more volatile and more explosive than regular gasoline. Explosions in
combustion chambers take place due to fuel vapour or fuel mist, not due
to liquid fuel.

That your engine wanted to catch but did not, suggests strongly that
combustion chamber compression has been compromised. That disconnecting
the ects helped to get it to the wanting to catch phase suggests
strongly that the ects causing overfuelling is the original problem on
your car. This ALSO IMPLIES that all the previous attempts to start the
car would have probably washed your cylinder linings dry by now due to
all the excess fuel it was pumping in. Even if your ects was perfectly
fine, that many efforts to crank (with a working pump of course) could
cause bore wash anyway.

Further, I suspect you are not doing something right in terms of the
relay analysis. If you have a bad relay, changing it to another one,
even a used one from elsewhere on the car, should cause the right readings to be restored. That doesn't seem to be happening. I suspect you are not
checking that correctly (you're probably using the wrong dme harness pinouts for your engine. M20, M50 NV and M50 vanos are all different). Doesn't matter, not important now since the jumped relay works fine to run the pump.

----------------------------------


Please follow my instructions strictly and don't overthink beyond this
for now.

1. Jump the fuel pump relay whenever you start the engine. Don't use a
relay for now. Simplify and focus on the essentials first.

2. Hold the throttle open whenever you start the engine.

3. Leave the ects disconnected.

4. Reoil the chambers according to my most excellent directions in the
other thread. I put in the details instead of just saying "reoil the
chambers", for a reason. They are important, correctly sequenced, and
the most efficient way to swiftly get that job done.

5. After finishing that, disconnect the ects, jump the fp relay, confirm
that the pump is running (if not check the fuse), hold the throttle
open, then start the engine.

6. You can do this with a recharged battery or you can hook up another
running engine to yours with charging cables. Either will work fine. If
you don't have a trickle charger on you then cables and a second car
might be faster. Once the engine starts, leave it running at idle for 10 minutes, then go for a drive immediately if you can, for around 15
minutes. If you can't drive somewhere immediately, shut off the other
car, remove the cables, start your engine. If it starts without hesitation, then scheduling a 15-30 minute drive a little later is alright. Depending on the current capabilities of your alternator, you might need up to an hour of on the road time to fully recharge the battery through driving alone. However, as long as you can crank, this hour does not have to be at one sitting...it can be over a few days. So no sweat.

7. Get down and solve this problem in the next 2 car hours max. You are
nearly there dude. Keep going.

---------------------


Op this is the third post where I am suggesting bore wash to you.

If, following the reoiling, the engine does not start, switch ecus since
you have several handy. There can be little else when you have
compression, fuel delivery, a working cps, a good dme relay, good plugs
and coils (the engine does not need all six just to start, this has also
been tested, so even if one coil is busted you should not be at this
point), and a good crank.

That's it. The engine has started.

---------------------


Note to Steve (and Dionte too if you're reading this, the torch is being handed to you) : Fuel delivery is not the problem here. With the pump running, fuel delivery can only be an issue with a clogged fuel filter and that is rare (fuel filters almost never get clogged as the fuel itself is filtered at the gas station)...we can effectively rule that out.

Fuel pressure is also almost never an issue because a pump puts out pressure at nearly 5 bars but fuel pressure is forcibly stepped down to 3-3.5 bars in the fuel circuit by the fuel pressure regulator....which means even a slower pump should be putting out enough pressure to run the engine.

Spark is there so fuel is also being injected appropriately ( ignition
timing and fuel injector timing are controlled simultaneously). The car will start fine with all permutations of a busted fuel pressure regulator, this has also been tested and verified.

The fuel pump was not changed before this no start, so the feed and
return lines could not have gotten mixed up either. [ For pure academic
interest, the reason why the car does not start when the fuel feed lines
are mixed up is because the fuel pressure regulator acts as a one way
valve...and possibly the fuel filter too (can't remember). ]

There is no significant fuel leakage as the OP does not report a strong smell of gasoline.

So, as long as the pump runs when the relay is jumped, fuel delivery is not the issue. Let us use that as a high probability working assumption when dealing with such situations henceforth. We must improve our craft as well.

And lets also recommend that people disconnect the ects, ventilate the chambers and try to start, before troubleshooting a no-start - especially for no starts in winter where this tends to be more common - since its easy to do and a bad ects will cause wet plugs and bore wash anew by the time all the cranking after trying other things is over. Its not easy but its not hard to identify and disconnect / reconnect the ects.


===================
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  #20  
Old 01-09-2014, 06:33 AM
jnrlaw83 jnrlaw83 is offline
"I wanna go fast"
Location: Atlanta GA
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 22
Mein Auto: 1995 525i
Again I thank everyone and I hope that I wasn't coming off as unappreciative... I definitely need to slow down and follow the steps... I was going to oil down the cylinders but in my haste and eagerness I killed the battery on the previous attempts so I had to buy a battery charger and the rest of the day yesterday was spent charging the battery.... But as soon as I get home from work tonight I'll be back to work on the car carefully reading and following the instructions. Thanks again I really appreciate it.
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  #21  
Old 01-09-2014, 06:38 PM
jnrlaw83 jnrlaw83 is offline
"I wanna go fast"
Location: Atlanta GA
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 22
Mein Auto: 1995 525i
I follow the steps carefully and got stuck at the point where it said to check for spark while plugs were out.... guess what? NO SPARK!!! Why does this car hate me?
Anyway I'm back at square one with more questions than answers... I guess the starter fluid was igniting under compression.
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  #22  
Old 01-09-2014, 08:19 PM
imae34driver imae34driver is offline
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Location: Orange County , CA
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 2,023
Mein Auto: 1995 540i SPORT /6 spd
Quote:
Originally Posted by jnrlaw83 View Post
I follow the steps carefully and got stuck at the point where it said to check for spark while plugs were out.... guess what? NO SPARK!!! Why does this car hate me?
Anyway I'm back at square one with more questions than answers... I guess the starter fluid was igniting under compression.
Seriously unlikely the car was "dieseling" on starter fluid.

Odds are at the time you had spark, unless you miss heard the motors sounds.

If your sure it was kicking over than you most likely had it then.
Whats changed since?


Odds are you have 2-3 issue's acting up together. And be on the look out for there common denominator.
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Last edited by imae34driver; 01-09-2014 at 08:21 PM.
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  #23  
Old 01-10-2014, 04:44 AM
Mamij Mamij is offline
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Location: Denmark
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 592
Mein Auto: BMW 320i M52 1996
Calm down and recheck everything methodically. And tell us EXACTLY how you checked for spark in blow by blow detail. At least now you don't have to worry about bore wash and it will stay that way with the ects disconnected. And pull your error codes out.
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  #24  
Old 01-20-2014, 09:58 AM
jnrlaw83 jnrlaw83 is offline
"I wanna go fast"
Location: Atlanta GA
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Posts: 22
Mein Auto: 1995 525i
After giving the car a couple days away from me, I retraced my steps..... Long story short, it was the DME. So now I have two bad one wrong and one good DME... Initial problem was crank sensor and I ruled it out after I changed it to an after market one that I didn't check before install... Oddly enough my original DME is now shot too.... Maybe they both went the same time? I don't know! But thanks a million everyone for their help. I learned a lot from you guys (I paid more attention here than in technical school smh)
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  #25  
Old 01-21-2014, 02:12 AM
Mamij Mamij is offline
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Location: Denmark
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 592
Mein Auto: BMW 320i M52 1996
Your post is unclear. If you could reread and edit for correctness it would be helpful.

Specific questions.

Have you managed to start your engine ?

If you have, which DME did you use ? The chipped one or the stock one ? Do you have any new error codes (after clearing the old ones and going for a drive )?

Is your aftermarket cps's resistance within specs ? Was your old one out of specs ?
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