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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 10-09-2012, 11:54 PM
bmwrm bmwrm is offline
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Location: UAE
 
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Mein Auto: BMW 523i 1998
E39 initial delay after applying full breaks

Hi,

I recently had to go through engine replacement for BMW E39 due to engine over heating problem.

Based on availability, I replaced engine 523i with 525 and its working fine so far. Only trouble I have is the delay (0.5 to 1 sec.) that occurs when I apply storng breaks, while stopping on signal or roundabout. It doesn't happen every time let's say 1 out of 5 times.

The technician already checked with computer and doesn't show any warning or messages.

Can some one help me with any suggestions?
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  #2  
Old 10-10-2012, 12:11 AM
pleiades pleiades is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwrm View Post
Hi,

I recently had to go through engine replacement for BMW E39 due to engine over heating problem.

Based on availability, I replaced engine 523i with 525 and its working fine so far. Only trouble I have is the delay (0.5 to 1 sec.) that occurs when I apply storng breaks, while stopping on signal or roundabout. It doesn't happen every time let's say 1 out of 5 times.

The technician already checked with computer and doesn't show any warning or messages.

Can some one help me with any suggestions?
Welcome to the 'Fest.

How does your brake pedal feel when pressed? Normal? Soft? Pulsing? Squishy? How is your brake fluid? Is the reservoir low? Is the fluid old?

I have a couple of suggestions.

The brake booster unit (located under the driver-side cabin air-filter housing in the engine compartment) has a vacuum connection to the engine intake manifold. That line assists the brake booster. If disconnected, the brakes might feel the way you describe.

Another problem (not necessarily yours) is that the brake booster compartment may be flooded with rain water (or carwash water) if a small drain hole has become clogged. When that happens, water can get into the booster unit, causing poor brake performance and a squishy pedal feel.
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  #3  
Old 10-10-2012, 12:37 AM
bmwrm bmwrm is offline
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Location: UAE
 
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Mein Auto: BMW 523i 1998
Thanks for your suggestions.

The break, when applied, feels like soft and deep and then the delays occurs and car moves with a jerk when I put pressure on accelator.

I will check the break booster unit connection to enginer manifold. Is this something not shown during computer testing?

Another issue, is regarding rattlingor knocking sound that is heard when I give full throttle to engine. Is this some serious issue with newly the changed engine?

Thanks in advance for your feedback.
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  #4  
Old 10-10-2012, 05:16 AM
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16valex 16valex is offline
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It's definitely your brake pads and usually happen during the cold weather not Summer. I used to have this issue, changed the pads to a different brand problem solved.
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Old 10-10-2012, 06:46 AM
bmwrm bmwrm is offline
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It's normally 30-40 C here these days. Breaks are working fine normally, this problems occurs only when I apply strong brakes.

I have also checked the vacuum connection to intake manifold, seems ok without any leaks.
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Old 10-10-2012, 07:06 AM
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ztom ztom is offline
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Originally Posted by 16valex View Post
It's definitely your brake pads and usually happen during the cold weather not Summer. I used to have this issue, changed the pads to a different brand problem solved.
Soft & deep pedal, I don't think it is pads, rather seems more serious, air in line? Very important to resolve for safety IMO.
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  #7  
Old 10-10-2012, 07:16 AM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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I understand you are from UAE, but it is "BRAKE", not "break".
Bleed the air out of the brake system.
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  #8  
Old 10-10-2012, 08:06 AM
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Topaz540i Topaz540i is offline
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Being that the brake booster works off engine vac perhaps the booster is of a different design for that motor? Not the appropriate size?
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  #9  
Old 10-10-2012, 01:40 PM
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16valex 16valex is offline
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Originally Posted by bmwrm View Post
It's normally 30-40 C here these days. Breaks are working fine normally, this problems occurs only when I apply strong brakes.

I have also checked the vacuum connection to intake manifold, seems ok without any leaks.
Oopsie! You're from the desert, forgot what I said. Flush your brake fluid and bleed the air out. If that doesn't work you have low vacuum to your brake booster.
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  #10  
Old 10-10-2012, 02:27 PM
Bandem Bandem is offline
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Originally Posted by bmwrm View Post
Another issue, is regarding rattlingor knocking sound that is heard when I give full throttle to engine. Is this some serious issue with newly the changed engine?
That may be detonation, use higher octane fuel or ease it up on the throttle and stay in lower gears until you know what it is.

If you're detonating, you'll be doing another engine replacement very soon.
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