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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 09-22-2009, 06:46 PM
vette71 vette71 is offline
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Exclamation Fuses under fresh air filter on E39

Hi, I'm new to this site and have a question. A few weeks ago, I made it to work, a 45 minute commute and when I went to go to lunch, my car wouldn't start. A few days later it was determined that it was a fuse located on the wire harness located under the fresh air filter on the passenger side. On Sunday, I made it to church and once it was over, it wouldn't start again. Same problem. TODAY, on my way to work, the traction light "flickered" yellow for a brief second or two and I called my husband because that was something new to me. When lunch time came again today, it didn't start.

It turns over pretty fast, so it's not the battery and when he changes the fuse, it starts up. He says that there isn't a fuse number on there but that it is located on the harness. There are a total of five ( 4 of them are 30 amp fuses and the other is 25 amps. It's the second one to the end (he doesn't remember if it's left or right considering the harness can be moved around or taken off).

Does anyone know what this fuse is to and what can be done to correct this so that it doesn't happen again?

Thanks for your wealth of knowledge!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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  #2  
Old 09-22-2009, 06:49 PM
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You have a battery discharge problem. Click the "Search" button above and type in fsu and you will get ideas.
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  #3  
Old 09-22-2009, 07:17 PM
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But she said the battery is fine. Just by changing the fuse allows the car to start, nothing to do with jump starting or putting a charge to the battery to get it to run. I believe she needs to know what that fuse goes to so it can be diagnosed from there.
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Old 09-22-2009, 07:36 PM
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bmw_n00b13 bmw_n00b13 is offline
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Hmmmmm…..interesting. I'd say it's a battery issue too, but the replacing fuses won't fix that.

Are you sure the DSC light wasn't flashing because you were sliding? I've had it if the ground is uneven around a right turn from a stop-sign; it's quite sensitive.

Can you post what fuse # or where the fuse is or something? It could just be a mis-sized fuse, or it could be a bad jumping technique, or something causing excessive draw.

If you jump, try to use one of those jumping packs instead of a car if you can, and always use the terminals under the hood.

Also, kudos for being mechanically inclined. The amount of work I have to do to get my fiancée to put gas in the car, let alone know that there's fuses under the fresh air filter
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Old 09-23-2009, 04:50 AM
vette71 vette71 is offline
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There is no fuse #. There is a fuse block under the fresh air filter behind the cars computer system and it has 5 fuses in this order(30A,30A,25A,30A,30A).

I have not had to have the car jump started at any time. When I go to crank it, it turns over really fast, so I know it's not the battery or starter.

Hope this helps and thanks to those who have responded.
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  #6  
Old 09-23-2009, 04:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TemporarySanity View Post
But she said the battery is fine. Just by changing the fuse allows the car to start, nothing to do with jump starting or putting a charge to the battery to get it to run. I believe she needs to know what that fuse goes to so it can be diagnosed from there.
How do you know the OP is a she? Maybe there is some dude on dude action here?
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Old 09-23-2009, 08:22 AM
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  #8  
Old 09-23-2009, 04:49 PM
vette71 vette71 is offline
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I'm a SHE, guys, lol. Now get me an answer NOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! JK
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Old 09-24-2009, 02:37 PM
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Those fuses are for the DME and EGS (engine and transmission) computers if I understand what you are describing correctly. I would have it checked out, a couple popped fuses is one thing but a fried control module can be very expensive. Also your husband will eventually get sick of tearing into the car to get to the fuse.


Last edited by Mark@EAC; 09-24-2009 at 02:43 PM.
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  #10  
Old 09-24-2009, 03:39 PM
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It's bugging me WHY the fuses are blowing. A computer shouldn't be drawing enough power to blow a fuse. Perhaps there's a short or something.
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  #11  
Old 09-24-2009, 07:11 PM
vette71 vette71 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark@EACTuning View Post
Those fuses are for the DME and EGS (engine and transmission) computers if I understand what you are describing correctly. I would have it checked out, a couple popped fuses is one thing but a fried control module can be very expensive. Also your husband will eventually get sick of tearing into the car to get to the fuse.



Thanks! That's exactly what I'm talking about. He just informed me that it's the 2nd 30 amp fuse from the left. Any idea what that one could be because it just did it again! Thanks for your help. He wonders if it could be a loose fuel injector wire?

Last edited by vette71; 09-24-2009 at 07:21 PM.
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  #12  
Old 09-24-2009, 07:43 PM
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that 30 amp fuse is for the thermostat heating element if I'm not mistaken (well, it is on the V8 cars anyway...). Have the car inspected PRONTO and have the engine harness wires inspected for shorting ASAP. Otherwise you risk an under hood fire, which could be catastrophic.

I had a similar problem where the thermostat heating element wires shorted together, and the 5amp wires caught fire. The fuse for the circuit was 30 amps (unbelievably stupid rating) and was in the same position as the fuse you describe. My fuse didnt blow. But happened to see the burning wires and cut them off ASAP to prevent further shorting. The 30 amp fuse was far too over rated for the 5 amp wires. Stupid design fault.

If the 6 cylinder 528i does not use that 30 amp fuse for a thermostat heater, its for something big. 30 amps is a lot of current draw, and enough to fry wiring pretty quickly. I'd get the car to an auto electrician as soon as you can.

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  #13  
Old 09-24-2009, 08:37 PM
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What M///Chook said! 30 amperes is a *lot*.
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  #14  
Old 09-24-2009, 10:24 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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You may have problem with the WIRING for one of the pre-cat O2 sensors (closest to the firewall, furthest from the front bumper).

The wires to the O2 sensor may not be in the clip and therefore may hang down in the engine bay versus parallel to the engine cover as they should be. The wire may hit the actual exhaust manifold, and that caused a burn-through on the sheathing, causing 2 or 3 of the wires to short together (there are 4 wires total).

Did anyone (yourself or indy mechanic) replace any O2 sensor(s) recently and might have routed it incorrectly?

I just took a pic of my car Fuse Box under Cabin Filter (it is a 1998 528i 5-speed so only one DME; 2nd slot next to DME is empty because no Automatic Trans Computer); one of your 30A Fuses controls the O2 sensor. You mentioned Fuse #2 from the Left (or counting from the FRONT to REAR).
Fuse #2 is probably the Fuse controlling the O2 sensor.




Go to a decent repair shop and see if they can verify that the wiring is shorted out.
Replacing the wiring is not hard:
- New wiring
- Splicing existing wiring and tape them properly (remember it is in a VERY HOT environment!)

HTH and please post a feedback so others may find it useful later.
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  #15  
Old 09-27-2009, 04:19 PM
vette71 vette71 is offline
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cn90, when we hooked it up to see what code we'd get, it came up the one for the O2 sensors. We are going to have them replaced. Thanks for your VERY valuable info!
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  #16  
Old 10-03-2012, 04:11 PM
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ztom ztom is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
You may have problem with the WIRING for one of the pre-cat O2 sensors (closest to the firewall, furthest from the front bumper).

The wires to the O2 sensor may not be in the clip and therefore may hang down in the engine bay versus parallel to the engine cover as they should be. The wire may hit the actual exhaust manifold, and that caused a burn-through on the sheathing, causing 2 or 3 of the wires to short together (there are 4 wires total).

Did anyone (yourself or indy mechanic) replace any O2 sensor(s) recently and might have routed it incorrectly?

I just took a pic of my car Fuse Box under Cabin Filter (it is a 1998 528i 5-speed so only one DME; 2nd slot next to DME is empty because no Automatic Trans Computer); one of your 30A Fuses controls the O2 sensor. You mentioned Fuse #2 from the Left (or counting from the FRONT to REAR).
Fuse #2 is probably the Fuse controlling the O2 sensor.




Go to a decent repair shop and see if they can verify that the wiring is shorted out.
Replacing the wiring is not hard:
- New wiring
- Splicing existing wiring and tape them properly (remember it is in a VERY HOT environment!)

HTH and please post a feedback so others may find it useful later.
Last night I worked on my car & I may have crossed wires on my O2 and this post (hopefully) shows the fuse I need to change since after the O2 was fixed, the fuel trim is running open loop. Thanks much, I think this is a valuable photo.

==

Also found this wiring diagram at..
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...t=41222&page=2
..not sure if applies for e39 528, looks to be a valuable thread.



..also contains this wire color cross reference, I think if hand-wiring an O2 sensor, not sure if correct..
Info compliments of Dale Burdette.

Added the O2 sensor wire colors to the following print.

-------------------------------X62xxx
Fuse 204 rt/ws = red/white---pin 1---Sensor ws = white
DME bn = brown---------------pin 2---Sensor ws = white
DME sw = black----------------pin 3---Sensor gy = gray
DMW ge = yellow--------------pin 4---Sensor sw = black

==

..also found this info at..
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...=524363&page=2

Originally Posted by JimLev View Post
The fuse functions are in Bentleys, but depending on the year and model you have they don't always match the Bentleys description, see page 610-34.
This is fuse panel 3 for F1 to F5
According to Bentleys:
F1 open (no fuse)
F2 30 Amps, Fuel injectors, Engine control module
F3 20 Amps, Cam sensors, MAF, Crank Sensor, Thermostat
F4 30 Amps, Heated O2 sensors, Tranny control module
F5 30 Amps, Unloader relay, power to coils

Here is what my 2000 540/6 really has. (might be more that below, this is what I could trace out)
F1 30 Amps, MAF, Cam sensor #1, DME, T-Stat, Evap emission valve
F2 30 Amps, Fuel injectors, Both Vanos solenoids, Cam sensor #2, Secondary air injection pump electrical valve.
F3 30 Amps, Cam sensors, MAF, Crank Sensor, Heated O2 sensors.
F4 30 Amps, DME
F5 30 Amps, Unloader relay, power to coils

update - There is a 20A fuse in F3 and that was blown, so not like either of above. Replaced, clear codes, fuel loop working again. The fuse box is hard to work with, poor design IMO. First need to bend long plastic tab and lift the bezel up just enough so it doesn't reclip, then I needed needle nose pliers to grab the bezel and wiggle the fuse module up and out. Then to get the bezel off there's good photos here:
http://blog.bavauto.com/5677/bmw-e46...derhood-e-box/

..but I slid it off by prying sideways underneath. Inspected but really didn't see the actual tab or mechanism keeping it from sliding.
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Last edited by ztom; 10-03-2012 at 08:02 PM.
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  #17  
Old 10-03-2012, 09:24 PM
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All fuses are (supposed to be) described in this thread:
- Need help with location of the fuse boxs and overview of fuse positions
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See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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