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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki |
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#1
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Is there anyway to test the LCM before I purchase another one? After a hard rainy night in Ga my car had the pleasure a being stuck in the 6 to 7 hr straight down pour (while at work). I was already experiencing taking on a few drops from the sunroof down the A post past the glove box to the passenger floor. After that E39 put on a light show some working others not... was wondering if I should try to let it dry out or is that wishful thinking ?
If it's a lost cause anyone know where I can pick one up from besides the stealer ??
Last edited by jcsax400; 10-04-2012 at 06:01 PM. |
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#2
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The LKM can be tested via the BMW DIS computer.
Might try ebaY, but that's a crap shoot. The LKM must be coded to the car.
__________________
Ed in San Jose '97 540i 6 speed aspensilber over aubergine leather. Build date 3/97. Golden Gate Chapter BMW CCA Nr 62319. Last edited by edjack; 10-04-2012 at 11:02 PM. |
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#3
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Since I just had an issue with them, try to pull your floor up and test the large fuses down there first. I went through the pain of waiting for a salvage yard to source an LCM for me. I had them plug it into my car to see if it actually was the problem. It wasn't! Thanks to 'Acoste' on this board he had me test the fuses and I found one was bad. It's kind of a b1tch getting down there but I'd try. Four large torque bolts and one trim piece later and you too can be testing and saving money . . . maybe.
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#4
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LCM Testing
Thanks for the info but can you be a little more specific on the location of those fuses don't wanna tear floor apart on the wrong side
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#5
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Thanks for the info but can you be a little more specific on the location of those fuses don't wanna tear floor apart on the wrong side
Last edited by jcsax400; 10-05-2012 at 02:58 PM. |
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#6
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sorry for the re post
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#7
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Thanks for the response any info on how to do this ?
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#8
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Quote:
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#9
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There are several posts with pics on how to locate the floor fuses, but here is a verbal description.
Move the passenger seat all the way back to expose two large torx head bolts. Remove them. Move the seat all the way forward. DISCONNECT THE BATTERY!!! Remove the two seat rail covers to expose the rear torx head bolts. Remove them. Lift and move the seat all the way back. Remove the side trim at the door/carpet edge by lifting straight up. There are three clips that point directly down into the door jam. Pull the carpet forward in a diagonal from the outer edge toward the engine/center of the car. Find something really heavy to hold it there. There is a large piece of foam that is on top of the fuse box. You need to gently lift it out, (or break it and it comes right out). There are two white boxes with clips. The outer one covers the wired connections. The inner covers the series of large fuses. Basically, if you were sitting in the passenger seat with your heals at the base of the seat, your right foot would be directly over the fuses. The box runs front to back, not side to side. If you remove the door side carpet trim you can muscle the carpet up enough to get at the fuse box. It just isn't recommended. |
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#10
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1. Look up the post by "pleiades" on how to remove headliner and fix the loose hose draining the sunroof cassette.
2. Then dry the LCM and hopefully it still works. You may want to consider installing a metal shield (aluminum sheathing from hardware store) to cover the top of the LCM, so if it leaks later, the LCM is protected. 3. The big fuses on the floor: 4 torx bolts holding the seat, prop it up and you have access to the fuses. Post what you find later. Here is info on floor fuses: http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=459397 |
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