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E34 (1989 - 1995)

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  #26  
Old 10-07-2012, 08:07 AM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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This is too detailed to explain. In short, its a wiring issue, and if its not, then your speakers are shot. You need google and youtube for detailed instructions on this. Its difficult to guide you through this over the net.

Needless to say, the very first thing you should do is to check your wiring in the trunk to see if something is incorrectly connected to your amplifier.
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  #27  
Old 10-07-2012, 08:22 AM
snowsled7 snowsled7 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sbrodacz View Post
Anyways......

The car had subs in the trunk which I took out the day I bought it. Now I am not getting any sound out of any of the interior speakers. Any idea on how I can fix this? I hate not having a functional radio.
Not much to go on there...

Factory radio? Which one?

After market radio?

Aftermarket amps?

Did it work before you removed the subs?

The factory system is built for the car. Mine is a ten speaker system with an amp in the trunk that has built in crossovers. Integrating into this factory system gets a little complex. If what has been done is an aftermarket head unit, amps and speakers then you have a pretty basic easy to troubleshoot system(probably).
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  #28  
Old 10-07-2012, 12:12 PM
Sbrodacz Sbrodacz is offline
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There were two subs with two amps. Ken wood head unit. All I did sad disconnect everything from the the two amps and subs. It had worked perfectly before. I wonder if I have to connect the speaker wires that were plugged into the subs and amp into the oem amp.
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  #29  
Old 10-07-2012, 07:36 PM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sbrodacz View Post
There were two subs with two amps. Ken wood head unit. All I did sad disconnect everything from the the two amps and subs. It had worked perfectly before. I wonder if I have to connect the speaker wires that were plugged into the subs and amp into the oem amp.
Clearly you messed up the wiring. And clearly, since its just wiring, its just a matter of trial and error before you get it right.
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  #30  
Old 10-07-2012, 07:44 PM
Sbrodacz Sbrodacz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertobaggio20 View Post
Clearly you messed up the wiring. And clearly, since its just wiring, its just a matter of trial and error before you get it right.
I am not sure how I messed up the wiring when all I did was remove a couple of subs ad the amp connected to the subs. That is why I am asking if the wiring that was connected to the subs and amps should be connected to the oem amp.

Where is the oem amp?

Last edited by Sbrodacz; 10-07-2012 at 08:31 PM.
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  #31  
Old 10-07-2012, 09:18 PM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Let me see if I remember the flow chart.

Battery is connected to the amplifiers and the dashboard head unit, for primary power.

The head unit is connected to the amps in the trunk. The amps are then connected to the rear speakers, the front speakers (with a crossover in at the front speakers) and the subwoofers if you have them.

Without subs and amps, the head unit's internal amplifiers are connected to the front and rear speakers. Even with amps, they can still be directly connected to the speakers, either front of rear. I used to have a low end amp that was connected to a low end active sub and the front speakers/tweeters. The head unit's amps were connected to the rear speakers. I recently had it all redone, and am trying to recollect from that.

Please spend some time reading through sound wiring diagrams on google, then trace everything. You're probably staring at the solution without realising it. This is not one of those things that can be easily talked through as we can't talk through basic wiring understanding. What i now understand (assuming I'm right) is due to careful observation of the guys doing this on my car. Before that, I would not have understood anything should I have asked similar questions over here. At least now I can follow conversations....sorta.

Have a good nights sleep and take a look again. Maybe reconnect your old setup and confirm that works, then dismantle it more mindfully. I know its irritating doing this in the trunk but that's trial and error for you. Or else, just pay someone $50 to sort it out....I bet its a 5-10 minute issue and they might not even charge you especially since you are somewhat literate in the matter.
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  #32  
Old 10-08-2012, 07:44 AM
Sbrodacz Sbrodacz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertobaggio20 View Post
Let me see if I remember the flow chart.

Battery is connected to the amplifiers and the dashboard head unit, for primary power.

The head unit is connected to the amps in the trunk. The amps are then connected to the rear speakers, the front speakers (with a crossover in at the front speakers) and the subwoofers if you have them.

Without subs and amps, the head unit's internal amplifiers are connected to the front and rear speakers. Even with amps, they can still be directly connected to the speakers, either front of rear. I used to have a low end amp that was connected to a low end active sub and the front speakers/tweeters. The head unit's amps were connected to the rear speakers. I recently had it all redone, and am trying to recollect from that.

Please spend some time reading through sound wiring diagrams on google, then trace everything. You're probably staring at the solution without realising it. This is not one of those things that can be easily talked through as we can't talk through basic wiring understanding. What i now understand (assuming I'm right) is due to careful observation of the guys doing this on my car. Before that, I would not have understood anything should I have asked similar questions over here. At least now I can follow conversations....sorta.

Have a good nights sleep and take a look again. Maybe reconnect your old setup and confirm that works, then dismantle it more mindfully. I know its irritating doing this in the trunk but that's trial and error for you. Or else, just pay someone $50 to sort it out....I bet its a 5-10 minute issue and they might not even charge you especially since you are somewhat literate in the matter.
Thank you.
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  #33  
Old 10-08-2012, 01:36 PM
Sbrodacz Sbrodacz is offline
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  #34  
Old 10-08-2012, 04:48 PM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Closeup of the engine, please !
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  #35  
Old 10-08-2012, 06:03 PM
Sbrodacz Sbrodacz is offline
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Originally Posted by robertobaggio20 View Post
Closeup of the engine, please !
I'll have to take some.


I am noticing water dripping. Somewhere from the engine bay. Any idea where this could be coming from?
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  #36  
Old 10-08-2012, 08:45 PM
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BMWFatherFigure BMWFatherFigure is offline
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Where the water is. Clean everything and leave the car over sheets of newspaper. Work your way back.
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  #37  
Old 10-08-2012, 09:19 PM
Sbrodacz Sbrodacz is offline
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There's metal plate under the engine bay towards the rear the water is dripping from. It's also dripping from the front. Looks like its dripping off the starter or alternator. It was dark. Didn't get a really good look. I just don't understand were water would come from. Coolant maybe but not water.
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  #38  
Old 10-09-2012, 04:40 AM
snowsled7 snowsled7 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sbrodacz View Post
There were two subs with two amps. Ken wood head unit. All I did sad disconnect everything from the the two amps and subs. It had worked perfectly before. I wonder if I have to connect the speaker wires that were plugged into the subs and amp into the oem amp.
OK, first off, do yourself a favor and put bobby bag head on ignore. You did not "mess up the wiring".

You have no tunes because you disconnected them. I can understand not wanting big booming subs however the second amp was most likely wired to the other speakers.

At this point with an after market head unit, easiest way to go is RCA cables from the head to the amp, and speaker wires from the amp to the speakers, it is really very simple. Make sure you have power, and the remote turn on lead hooked up between the amp and head, usually a small blue wire. Good Luck
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  #39  
Old 10-09-2012, 04:56 AM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Could be condensation. What's the colour of your coolant? If its the weak blue of the oem coolant, then it might look like water. This is one reason why I advocate using cheap, brightly coloured, strong smelling coolant purchased from walmart. If there is a leak, it would be very easy to trace, and if a hose bursts especially while driving, you would smell the coolant in your cabin long before you engine actually overheats.
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  #40  
Old 10-09-2012, 05:36 AM
snowsled7 snowsled7 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertobaggio20 View Post
This is one reason why I advocate using cheap, brightly coloured, strong smelling coolant purchased from walmart.


I laughed so hard, coffee almost shot out of my nose

You are a genius bobby
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  #41  
Old 10-09-2012, 07:08 AM
Sbrodacz Sbrodacz is offline
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I just hope it's not a blown head gasket.
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  #42  
Old 10-09-2012, 08:23 AM
leewtech leewtech is offline
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If you can somehow clean the undercarriage first then park the car on some clean cardboard. That will give you a starting point for finding the leak source. Clear is water/condensation, Black is oil, red is tranny/PS fluid, green/blue/orange can be coolant.
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  #43  
Old 10-09-2012, 08:31 AM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Originally Posted by snowsled7 View Post
I laughed so hard, coffee almost shot out of my nose

You are a genius bobby
Do it and you might just thank me for it someday.
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  #44  
Old 10-09-2012, 08:52 AM
Sbrodacz Sbrodacz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leewtech View Post
If you can somehow clean the undercarriage first then park the car on some clean cardboard. That will give you a starting point for finding the leak source. Clear is water/condensation, Black is oil, red is tranny/PS fluid, green/blue/orange can be coolant.
That's good news. It definitely looked like water. I am going to check and see what color the coolant is. Hopefully it not clear like water. If it is ill have to buy some green coolant to make it easier to see.
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  #45  
Old 10-09-2012, 03:16 PM
Sbrodacz Sbrodacz is offline
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Drove the car for awhile today. Couldn't find a leak. I also did not notice anything this morning. Hopefully it was condensation.
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  #46  
Old 10-09-2012, 07:57 PM
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BMWFatherFigure BMWFatherFigure is offline
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I could be well off line here - Could it be condensate from the air con coming from a partly blocked drain tube? Just a thought.
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Good - Fast - Cheap: Pick any two.
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  #47  
Old 10-09-2012, 08:03 PM
Ssuss34 Ssuss34 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWFatherFigure View Post
I could be well off line here - Could it be condensate from the air con coming from a partly blocked drain tube? Just a thought.
I was going to say the same thing. Not sure what the weather is like over there although in summer here in Aus the AC drips like a mother******.
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  #48  
Old 10-10-2012, 05:14 AM
Sbrodacz Sbrodacz is offline
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It's definitely not coming from the ac. It's been in the low 50s during the day and high 30s at night. The seat warmers work great.
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  #49  
Old 10-10-2012, 05:32 AM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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What does it taste like ?

Just kidding. :-)

If there's something dripping, its coming from somewhere. Put your head or your phone video cam with the flash on under your car slowly and try to physically look for it. Sometimes its just faster and simpler to do the grunt work.
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  #50  
Old 10-10-2012, 05:38 AM
snowsled7 snowsled7 is offline
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Actually... tasting it is the quickest way. Coolant, no matter the color, is sweet, oil is not.

Your car also has a coolant level warning. Check the oil regularly for coolant contamination, make sure it doesn't get milky. The be all end all is a simple pressure test. Many auto parts stores will rent you the tool for free or next to nothing.

Or just warm it up fully and look for leaks. Shutting it off hot produces the highest pressures, for a short time anyway.
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