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7 Series - E65 / E66 (2002 - 2008)
Discussion of BMW's 4th generation E65/E66 7 Series flagship. The E65 generated much controversy, due to its radical styling and iDrive user difficulties. Nonetheless, the E65 broke records to become the best-selling 7-series iteration ever, especially after its 2005 facelift.

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  #1  
Old 03-17-2010, 07:25 PM
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wjjklj wjjklj is offline
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Brake fluid flush

I am due shortly for the brake fluid flush. I have searched and have not really found any step by step on this for the 7 series. Is this worth doing myself? I am handy enough to change brakes , oil, and even lawnmower headgaskets, but have not done this. How much would the dealer charge for this and is it a pain in the rear to do? Thanks for the advice. I PM'd a couple of members before posting but do not have a response as of yet. Thanks in advance.
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  #2  
Old 03-17-2010, 10:22 PM
Call Me Daddy Call Me Daddy is offline
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I flushed mine a couple of weeks ago. It is not a true "flush" like they can do at a garage with a pressurized machine, but I jacked up the right rear and basically did the brake bleed until the fluid camer out clean. The theory is that the right rear is furthest from the master cylinder so that should be the longest route for the new fluid to get to.

It is a 20 minute job, but you need a helper.
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  #3  
Old 03-17-2010, 11:48 PM
teejaylentz teejaylentz is offline
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I've done this on several of my cars w/o the pressurized Mityvac system - it's an easy job. On the BMW (and other ABS vehicles), I've found that back pressure is helpful to prevent air from getting sucked back up into the caliper so I use a one-way spring loaded valve that came with a one-man brake bleeder kit (cheap at the auto parts store). If you just use a tube without a valve, fluid and air can get sucked back up the tube between brake pedal presses.

1. First, use a turkey baster or some other suction device to suck the old fluid out of the brake fluid reservoir (underneath the cabin air filter on the front left).
2. Refill the brake fluid reservoir with new fluid (DOT 4). I would recommend over-filling it a bit as you will be draining most of the fluid out through the calipers as you flush.

You should do all 4 calipers starting at right rear, then left rear, then front right, then front left. These are the steps I follow at each caliper:

1. Connect the brake bleeder tube (buy the kit if you don't have it) and loosen the caliper banjo bolt (on top of caliper) to get the fluid to flow. The bolt is covered with a dust cap you will need to pull off.
2. Put the other end of the tube in a container (I use a glass cup).
3. Get in car and press the brake pedal a few times. After 3-4 presses, make sure the fluid in the brake reservoir (at front) is not low. If reservoir is emptied, you will suck air into the system and then have to start all over again to get the air out (which won't be fun!)
4. Go back and check the bleeder tube and see if the fluid is clear. If fluid is clear, you are done. If not, you will need to press the pedal a few more times. Remember to keep checking the reservoir to make sure it has flulid.
5. Repeat at next caliper.

Last edited by teejaylentz; 03-17-2010 at 11:53 PM.
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  #4  
Old 03-18-2010, 05:00 PM
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Thanks so much for the step by step and the tips. I am going to try it next weekend.
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  #5  
Old 03-18-2010, 05:43 PM
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greco2000 greco2000 is offline
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Is this absolutely necessary? I mentioned this to my indy and he laughed at me. He said its a BS way for the dealership to squeeze something extra. He says some cars go 300K without changing break fluid. Its cheap, like 70 bucks or so, so I may just do it anyway, but can anyone comment if it is 100% necessary
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  #6  
Old 03-18-2010, 05:59 PM
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Sorry I didnt pm you back I havent done the bleeding myself, necessary?? prob not. cant hurt to have fresh fluid though.
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  #7  
Old 03-18-2010, 07:52 PM
teejaylentz teejaylentz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greco2000 View Post
Is this absolutely necessary? I mentioned this to my indy and he laughed at me. He said its a BS way for the dealership to squeeze something extra. He says some cars go 300K without changing break fluid. Its cheap, like 70 bucks or so, so I may just do it anyway, but can anyone comment if it is 100% necessary
Is it absolutely necessary depends on the definition of "absolutely." I'm sure some cars can go 300K miles without changing brake fluid. Some cars could probably go 300K miles without changing transmission fluid too (thinking of my wife's old '91 Camry as an example way back when). For me it's about prevention.

Brake fluid accumulates moisture over time which decreases the boiling point and can increase the risk of rust build up

Last edited by teejaylentz; 03-18-2010 at 08:01 PM.
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  #8  
Old 03-18-2010, 10:22 PM
cjennjr cjennjr is offline
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I changed my brake fluid last weekend by myself. I purchased a Pressure Bleeder and catch bottle from BavAuto for $59.95. It took me about an hour and a half since it was my first time doing it. It is an easy job!!! The step by step instructions in a previous post is great!!!
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  #9  
Old 03-19-2010, 02:17 PM
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Greg Robinson Greg Robinson is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wjjklj View Post
I am due shortly for the brake fluid flush. I have searched and have not really found any step by step on this for the 7 series. Is this worth doing myself? I am handy enough to change brakes , oil, and even lawnmower headgaskets, but have not done this. How much would the dealer charge for this and is it a pain in the rear to do? Thanks for the advice. I PM'd a couple of members before posting but do not have a response as of yet. Thanks in advance.


Honestly let the dealer do it, they do a complete flush and it should be done as recommended I have heard of too many horror stories doing this yourself.... FYI
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  #10  
Old 03-19-2010, 08:50 PM
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How much are most paying the dealer to have this done? Sounds like it takes 2 people and about 1 1/2 hours based on posts here. Depending on the price it may be worth letting the dealer do this one.
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  #11  
Old 03-19-2010, 08:51 PM
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It should be included with your service if you have a cpo car, if not prolly about 100 bucks, but it is really important to do....
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  #12  
Old 02-13-2011, 02:19 PM
theoutlander theoutlander is offline
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Do I need to take the tires off to bleed the brakes?
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  #13  
Old 02-13-2011, 03:19 PM
klob25 klob25 is offline
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Hey Mate,

I need to take the tires off to bleed the brakes? --

If you are asking this question take it to an expert and watch him do it ... before you try it yourself, save 100 bucks for 24 months or your life with the brakes.....

Answer to your question : yes.
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  #14  
Old 02-13-2011, 05:02 PM
theoutlander theoutlander is offline
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Haha, good answer - I'm not a complete newbie ... I've changed my brakes, rotors, oil and thermostat, fixed the L7 .. I was asking this because I hate to spend 20 minutes taking a wheel off and putting it back on...so wondering if people have just jacked it up and accessed the lines from under...

However, for $100 I think it's worth it to pay someone to do a flush ... It'll probably take me a whole day :/

Thanks!
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  #15  
Old 02-13-2011, 05:13 PM
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samadkins29 samadkins29 is offline
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Ok, to clear some of this up. You should change the brake fluid. I just did at 105K miles(it was very dirty). I bought 1 can(1 liter) of ATE blue from BavAuto. Although 2 would have have been better. You only need 1 Liter, but it makes it tight with one can since you cant over bleed them. Doing a gravity bleed will take approx 45 minutes, give or take. I did the rears first then the fronts. I suppose you could do them all at the same time.
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  #16  
Old 02-25-2011, 12:15 PM
theoutlander theoutlander is offline
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A local shop charged my $69 to get it done, so I went in there. Later I realized that they used some sort of pump to pull the brake fluid out. I don't know if that's a rip-off in broad daylight. :/
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  #17  
Old 02-25-2011, 03:43 PM
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1bad540 1bad540 is offline
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Dealer charges 225, i had it done a few months ago.
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c5 Corvette 6sp,z51,2"drp,19"ccw'sshrt shft,corsa exh,dd nav
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  #18  
Old 02-26-2011, 02:40 AM
RTGrove RTGrove is online now
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Yes, it absolutly needs to be done. As mentioned earlier, brake fluid is hygroscopic and absorbs moisture from the atmoshere which not only reduces the boiling point, but also will cause rust and corossion in the master cylinder, abs unit, lines and calipers. This is a fact. Also there is nothing inherently better about the fact that the dealer uses a suction or pressure tool to force the fluid through for the change. That just does it faster, not better. It isnt a better flush, etc. If youare going to do a brake stsem flush more than once in your life do yourself a huge favor and get a speedbleeder by motiv products. I have to flush the brake fluid on our collextor car every other year, and this made the job 10x faster and easier. Its unreal hownmuch faster and easier of a job it is....
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  #19  
Old 02-26-2011, 02:55 PM
John2.5RS John2.5RS is offline
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I have ramps and big wheels, I found it really easy to bleed the brakes. The space is kinda tight, but it's not a problem to bleed the brakes without removing wheels. Just easier with the wheels out of the way.
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  #20  
Old 06-06-2015, 02:35 PM
Richie3000 Richie3000 is offline
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Hola fellow Bimmer'ers! I'm looking to do this job on my '03 745 this weekend.

Curious if it really makes a difference whether the entire car is on jack stands all the way around - or if I can just do each wheel one at a time (jacking car up and removing tire) going from furthest to closest?

Any input would be greatly appreciated. I'm on a driveway that's not entirely flat (albeit close) so I'm a bit hesitant to put it up on all four stands...
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  #21  
Old 06-11-2015, 01:36 PM
bmoneyg bmoneyg is offline
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YouTube it. There is a bleeder tool you can purchase for about 70 bucks which makes it real easy
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  #22  
Old 06-11-2015, 02:13 PM
Richie3000 Richie3000 is offline
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Originally Posted by bmoneyg View Post
YouTube it. There is a bleeder tool you can purchase for about 70 bucks which makes it real easy
Thanks for the follow up!

Happy to say I've actually got the bleeder tool, just not sure if the entire car needs to be on jacks or if I can just go from wheel to wheel, one at a time, from furthest to closest.

Can this be performed without problems just jacking up one corner at a time?

Thanks!
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  #23  
Old 06-11-2015, 02:29 PM
Sisyphus987C Sisyphus987C is offline
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Never have done a 7 series but have never had an issue going wheel to wheel with a jack on other cars.


Les
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  #24  
Old 06-11-2015, 04:01 PM
bmoneyg bmoneyg is offline
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Yes. Start from the furthest to the nearest. With the bleeder tool you will be pushing the old fluid out with the new fluid.
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