Power Steering hoses - which is pressure hose

I need some advice, and help. I have a 2000 323i. I took it to a reputable mechanic who identified several problems, one of which was that my "power steering suction and return hoses" are leaking. I have several questions:
1. Which hoses in the attached diagram are the "power steering suction and return hoses?"
2. I am a novice. Is this ps hose job doable by a novice?
3. Is there a good video to help?

js

The pressure hose has the long, U-shaped loop that extends below the steering rack.

Consider replacing all of the hoses and the power steering fluid reservoir while you're at it.

G. P.,

Thanks, and to confirm, in my mechanic's statement, ''power steering suction and return hoses" the suction hose is the pressure hose? Furthermore, is this the #10 hose in the diagram? Also, do you think a novice could do it?

I will get under the car tomorrow to get an impression on whether I could do this or not.

js

^^^^^^Agree with the above......hoses #7 and #11 are notorious for leaking and are not all that expensive. Keeping the fluid from dripping into your alternator will save you in the long run as well.

#10 is the cooling line that runs behind the radiator...the pressure hose is #3. If you plan to change the lines I mention above be sure to get the quick disconnect tool as well.

http://www.amazon.com/Assenmacher-AS...isconnect+tool

+1 on getting the disconnect tool - makes it easy peasy to remove the #7 & 11 lines hooking to the #10 cooler (which you shouldn't need to replace). Check out Starless's DIY in the Wiki to see if the overall job is something you'd like to tackle.

I replaced all four lines (#1, 3, 7 & 11) & the reservoir. Aside from the pressure line, they're not terribly expensive. Don't forget washers & hose clamps.

Make sure you get the correct #3 pressure hose, for either the LF-20 or the LF-30 pump. Going just by the car's manufacture date isn't wise, as an LF-20 could have been replaced by an LF-30. To be sure, take a look at the pump pictures on Pelican Parts (or another vendor) - they're quite different.

I finally have a little time today to check things out. I took off the air box to get a better look-see. It is hard to tell what is leaking, all the hoses are covered with at least some oil/grease and crud. I decided to replace all the hoses and the reservoir (I assume my daughter never did - so the filter is probably all mucked up.) as well.

Now for the dumb question. I have the hose tool, but it is not clear to me how it works. Can someone help?


js

It just slides over the quick disconnect to depress the gray plastic ring into the metal collar and push back the retaining clips inside the collar so that you can then pull off the hose. I think Starless has a picture posted in one of his DIY threads about swapping out the PS hoses.

Yep....here you go......about 10 pictures in

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...455&highlight=

I've removed the four hoses and have started installing the new ones. This has generated some questions:

1. The rack to cooling coil line is attached to the wheel well with two plastic ties. How was I supposed to "untie" them (The hose could not be removed without unfastening them.) and how do I reattach the new hose to the wheel well? (I had to partially cut the fastener.)

2. I connected the end of the high pressure line that attaches with the hollow bolt with no problem, but is the other end that goes into the P/S pump supposed to be forced in? It look like it is supposed to "pop" to seat properly. If I just "gently" put it in and then tighten the nut, the nut does not seat against the pump.

Originally Posted by jsaklas

1. The rack to cooling coil line is attached to the wheel well with two plastic ties. How was I supposed to "untie" them (The hose could not be removed without unfastening them.) and how do I reattach the new hose to the wheel well? (I had to partially cut the fastener.)

Refer back to the parts diagram you posted; I believe you'll need the tie shown there. Mine unhooked itself with ease, but I couldn't tell you exactly how since I did the work over a year ago.

Originally Posted by jsaklas

2. I connected the end of the high pressure line that attaches with the hollow bolt with no problem, but is the other end that goes into the P/S pump supposed to be forced in? It look like it is supposed to "pop" to seat properly. If I just "gently" put it in and then tighten the nut, the nut does not seat against the pump.

Mine did not seat against the pump either. Using a flare nut wrench, I hand tightened it just enough to the compress the little O-ring on the end of the fitting. If you overtighten the fitting, you risk cutting or overcompressing the O-ring.