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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 08-08-2012, 11:54 AM
XUMERX XUMERX is offline
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Location: Florida
 
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Mein Auto: 1999 BMW 528i
Please Help!

Hey guys, Look I have run into a problem that I cant figure out!

When I bought my 1999 528i 2 years ago it was fine. One year after that the idle control valve went bad, the car would not go more than 30mph and the traction control, engine , and eml lights were on. So I replace the control valve. Everything went fine from there on. Then one morning I started the car and the same problem came back! I thought you know maybe the idle control went bad again since I replaced it with a refurbished one. This time I bought a brand new one. Everything was going good for about 3 months. All of the sudden one morning I started the car and BAM! same problem again! I turned off the car and let it sit for a few minutes. After a bit I started it up and the lights were gone and the car ran smooth. I thought maybe it was a glitch or something I dont know! Until the next day when the same thing happened again!! and the next and the next! For two whole weeks I would have to start my car in the morning, turn it off and let it sit for a bit, and then restart it and everything would be normal again. I decided let me change the MAF (since its never been replace in 165,000 ) but that didnt make a difference. I changed the idle control valve for the 3rd time with a brand new piece again. So now I have a new idle control valve (again) and a new MAF. Two weeks later Im sitting here and writing this because guess what?!?!?! Im having the same problem again!! Everytime I change the Idle control valve my car runs fine for a few days or weeks and then the lights come back on and the car doesnt rev up. If I floor it while in park all that happens is it revs to like 2500 rpm and drops and goes back up and drops and goes back up constanly. While in gear it just studders to accelerate and doesnt go more than 30mph. Everytime I pull the codes for the engine light I get the Trottle position sensor and/or pedal position sensor. I really dont know what to do guys. Please help me.
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  #2  
Old 08-08-2012, 03:29 PM
edjack edjack is online now
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I'm puzzled: why do you keep replacing the ICV when you're getting codes for throttle or pedal position sensors? Doesn't make sense.

These devices are known to fail, and cannot be repaired. Yours must have intermittents.
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  #3  
Old 08-08-2012, 05:48 PM
XUMERX XUMERX is offline
JK3R
Location: Florida
 
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True but what I cant figure out is how replacing the ICV is fixing it for some time
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  #4  
Old 08-08-2012, 07:07 PM
edjack edjack is online now
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The act of jostling the intake tract, of which the throttle position sensor is a part, s/b a clue for you., If it's intermittent, the movement can "fix" it for a short time.

If you can't trust your scan tool, who can you trust?
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  #5  
Old 08-08-2012, 07:16 PM
XUMERX XUMERX is offline
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your right bro.. I just wanted an opinion so I think im going to change the throttle body because I think the position sensor is a part of it on my car (1999 528i) anyone know for sure?
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  #6  
Old 08-08-2012, 09:45 PM
edjack edjack is online now
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The throttle body incorporates the pots that signal the position of the throttle plate. The assembly is not repairable, as I noted above, and must be replaced.

The pedal position sensor is of the same ilk.
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  #7  
Old 08-08-2012, 10:16 PM
XUMERX XUMERX is offline
JK3R
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So all I should do is replace the throttle body correct?
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  #8  
Old 08-09-2012, 06:35 AM
john@eac john@eac is offline
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Yes before 8/98 they had a throttle position switch after that they went to the throttle body assembly. I would also check your wiring to make sure that there isn't a bad connection.
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  #9  
Old 08-09-2012, 01:04 PM
rdl rdl is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XUMERX View Post
So all I should do is replace the throttle body correct?
Before you spend the money & time, you might want to try this. When you experience the problem turn the engine off, for safety. Reach in and wiggle the cable and plug on the throttle body. If you wish to be really thorough, pull the plug and have a look for damaged or corroded pins. Then try the engine again. Cheap & easy. If it doesn't help you can always go with a new throttle body.

It's possible that either wires to or pins in the plug are damaged & intermittent rather than the throttle body itself. Given your description that changing the ICV "repairs" the problem being reported by the DTCs this seems to me a real possibility. As edjack mentioned, while changing the ICV you will inevitably disturb the cable & plug to the throttle body. Similarily, stopping and restarting the engine may be providing just enough movement, shaking & vibration to re-establish the circuit.

WDS describes that the instant the DME can't confirm agreement between the redundant position sensors it goes into fault mode. There are over a dozen wires/circuits in the throttle body and pedal. A single bad circuit could be causing all this misery; either open circuit or a little extra resistance at a bad point.
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Last edited by rdl; 08-09-2012 at 01:11 PM.
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  #10  
Old 08-09-2012, 02:20 PM
XUMERX XUMERX is offline
JK3R
Location: Florida
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdl View Post
Before you spend the money & time, you might want to try this. When you experience the problem turn the engine off, for safety. Reach in and wiggle the cable and plug on the throttle body. If you wish to be really thorough, pull the plug and have a look for damaged or corroded pins. Then try the engine again. Cheap & easy. If it doesn't help you can always go with a new throttle body.

It's possible that either wires to or pins in the plug are damaged & intermittent rather than the throttle body itself. Given your description that changing the ICV "repairs" the problem being reported by the DTCs this seems to me a real possibility. As edjack mentioned, while changing the ICV you will inevitably disturb the cable & plug to the throttle body. Similarily, stopping and restarting the engine may be providing just enough movement, shaking & vibration to re-establish the circuit.

WDS describes that the instant the DME can't confirm agreement between the redundant position sensors it goes into fault mode. There are over a dozen wires/circuits in the throttle body and pedal. A single bad circuit could be causing all this misery; either open circuit or a little extra resistance at a bad point.
Thanks Ill take a look into that now
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  #11  
Old 08-09-2012, 03:58 PM
XUMERX XUMERX is offline
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okay so I pulled the throttle body and it looks really dirty like the inside is pretty dark and its got some orange going on. The connection seems to be fine and not the problem
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  #12  
Old 12-12-2012, 12:57 PM
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craigmack1 craigmack1 is offline
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Hey XUMERX,

Did you ever resolve this? My '99 528i did this exact thing to me last night. Help!

THX
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  #13  
Old 12-12-2012, 08:52 PM
XUMERX XUMERX is offline
JK3R
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Quote:
Originally Posted by craigmack1 View Post
Hey XUMERX,

Did you ever resolve this? My '99 528i did this exact thing to me last night. Help!

THX
Yes I did in the end a new throttle body was the remedy and all the troubles went away.
Good Luck
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  #14  
Old 12-12-2012, 09:46 PM
EthirtyMine EthirtyMine is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XUMERX View Post
Yes I did in the end a new throttle body was the remedy and all the troubles went away.
Good Luck
Good for you for coming back with a solution.

So often, someone shows up with a problem, but never comes back to let us know what the solution was.

Cheers!
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  #15  
Old 12-16-2012, 08:40 AM
XUMERX XUMERX is offline
JK3R
Location: Florida
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EthirtyMine View Post
Good for you for coming back with a solution.

So often, someone shows up with a problem, but never comes back to let us know what the solution was.

Cheers!
I KNOW! its like a dead end road

Anytime
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  #16  
Old 12-16-2012, 09:20 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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I just posted this on the E46 forums for a guy with the exact title - and he fixed it within minutes:
- Please Help!

Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
BTW, "Help Please!" is just about the dumbest title you can think of and provides absolutely no value nor courtesy to the readers. Everyone needs help.

Plus, when people do a title-only search (which I do all the time), a title of "Help Please" is useless for reference value to help anyone else.

You really should edit your original post and re-title it from the description of your problem.

You'll actually get more help that way.
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Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #17  
Old 12-17-2012, 01:37 PM
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craigmack1 craigmack1 is offline
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Hey XUMERX,
Thanks for the reply. Checked on a throttle body. Strangely enough right now, all the lights have gone out and the car seems to have reset himself. Sound like a short or bad connection to anyone else? And I did just have some work done to a cooling pipe under my intake manifold so maybe a loose connection is what I'm looking at.... I hope.

Thanks!!
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