Help nowww(cabs)

So I decided to change the front lower control arms and I got stuck

The arrow shows where I've been applying my pickle fork and Nothing I've been hammering for 45 minutes and nothing. I removed the bolts for the bushings. The only bolt I haven't removed is the one in the middle ball joint what size is it bTW?




Here is my vid please watch it and thank you bimmerfest

The fork should of popped it loose so Im guessing putting the nut back onto the bolt so its flush with the top of the bolt(stud) and supporting the hub somehow and hammering while the forks jammed in there to is about your only option. I cant think of anything else to try.

Those are quite same tools i had in use also. Maybe i had slightly bigger hammer.

That ABS sensor is some problem, shouldn't smash it.
I tried to take mine off and it broke in process.
Otherwise only advice is to hit harder.

Anyway you do something better, because i wasn't able to get my nuts off in civilized way, i had to cut them.

Originally Posted by crowz

The fork should of popped it loose so Im guessing putting the nut back onto the bolt so its flush with the top of the bolt(stud) and supporting the hub somehow and hammering while the forks jammed in there to is about your only option. I cant think of anything else to try.

I will try this and hopefully this works. Maybe a bigger hammer ?

you should not have the FCAB unbolted from the frame until after you beat the control arm off at the ball joints.

Originally Posted by QAfred

you should not have the FCAB unbolted from the frame until after you beat the control arm off at the ball joints.

the passanger side is done

but the drivers side inner bolt is a pain in the ass I've been using a 22mm socket and it spins but it feels like the bolt is just spining and not going anywhere!

help

I feel that the problem is the nut of the inner baljoint is stuck and and the balljoint was spinning on driver's side?

the ball joint studs are tapered- if it is spinning when you turn the nut that means it is already loose from subframe, probably due to all the beating elsewhere. Now you need to try and beat the control arm back up or put a bottle jack or floor jack under that ball joint and push up (jack it if you have to) right at the point where the lower ball joint is inserted in the sub frame. That may push the tapered pin back into subframe securely enough for you to get the nut off.

don't get under the vehicle until securely back on stands etc.

Originally Posted by QAfred

the ball joint studs are tapered- if it is spinning when you turn the nut that means it is already loose from subframe, probably due to all the beating elsewhere. Now you need to try and beat the control arm back up or put a bottle jack or floor jack under that ball joint and push up (jack it if you have to) right at the point where the lower ball joint is inserted in the sub frame. That may push the tapered pin back into subframe securely enough for you to get the nut off.

don't get under the vehicle until securely back on stands etc.

I heard puttinga jack underneath it helps it from spining? even to get the nut off.

What about an allen wrentch and hold it and try it screw the nut off?(I have a buddy helping me)

I dont want to give up!

yeah, that will work too, anything to keep that tapered stud from spinning. try jacking up on it without lifting the vehicle if you cannot hold it with the allen.

Hey I got my CABS in

but now I feel the steering wheel is hard?

I still get that brake pull or when I go on bumps the steering goes to the left or right!

Do I need an alignment?

Or did I do a crappy job????

Alignment is good to do after changing suspension parts.
Steering is quite sensitive about everything, it depends bit on tire pressure also.
And about that braking it can also effect if brake parts are worn unevenly, or if something is bit stuck on one side and doesn't work properly.

If you put CABs in their place and tightened properly then those shouldn't be problem anymore.

I changed mine a few months back, the nuts that came with the new arms were different size than the ones installed. It took me a minute to figure that out. After I changed both left and right the steering felt almost normal but once I got it into the shop the printout said something totaly different. Now that the alighnment is done I can definately tell the difference. P.S. I broke a hammer and a sledge hammer getting mine off. I need a longer fork and a bigger hammer for next time LOL

If you're still getting bump steering, you might want to consider changing the Sway Bar End Links. After I changed my control arms and bushings, I still had bump steering/Tramlining. Changing those links cured it.

Then get an alignment.

OP, you need an alignment asap and the issue will go away and you can truly enjoy those new control arms. Your toe is likely WAY out of spec and this causes most of the issue post control arm replacement. Your sway bar links have little to do with the issue.

Originally Posted by smolck

OP, you need an alignment asap and the issue will go away and you can truly enjoy those new control arms. Your toe is likely WAY out of spec and this causes most of the issue post control arm replacement. Your sway bar links have little to do with the issue.

After replacing my control arms, control arm bushings, steering giubo and getting an alignment, my car was still bump steering. New sway bar end links cured the problem. Sway bar end links do have ball joints in them which are subject to wear just like other ball joints. Why would it not be worth checking them? Especially since they're relatively inexpensive and very easy to replace ?

Not trying to start a range war, just looking to add to the common knowledge...

Originally Posted by jonathan2263

After replacing my control arms, control arm bushings, steering giubo and getting an alignment, my car was still bump steering. New sway bar end links cured the problem. Sway bar end links do have ball joints in them which are subject to wear just like other ball joints. Why would it not be worth checking them? Especially since they're relatively inexpensive and very easy to replace ?

Not trying to start a range war, just looking to add to the common knowledge...

Darn, How can I check if I need new sway bars? I don't want to do an alignment on my car and then have the sway bar be the problem now and then have another alignment. It would be a waste of money. Like you said, they have ball joints but I hear no popping sound at all, not yet. But something is telling it might be the sway bars.

Originally Posted by Words

Darn, How can I check if I need new sway bars? I don't want to do an alignment on my car and then have the sway bar be the problem now and then have another alignment. It would be a waste of money. Like you said, they have ball joints but I hear no popping sound at all, not yet. But something is telling it might be the sway bars.

Look at the sway bar end links, not the sway bar, They're the thin vertical rod next to the strut with a ball joint on either end. The "grab and try to rattle test" would tell you if they're heavily worn. As I said, I had replaced a bunch of other stuff and still had the bump steering even after the alignment. After replacing the end-links, the bump steering was cured, and it didn't change the alignment any. If your car has high mileage and they've never been replaced, you might as well. They take less than 20 minutes per side and if I remember, were about $60 for the pair (Meyle).

Ok I will check that out in a bit. I also go to check on the tire pressures and to see uneven tire wear. I was reading something about replacing your calipers!!!!!!

anyways if it happens to be my sway bar end links, How hard is it to DIY? Would I need the sway bar or just the sway bar end links?

Originally Posted by Words

Darn, How can I check if I need new sway bars? I don't want to do an alignment on my car and then have the sway bar be the problem now and then have another alignment. It would be a waste of money. Like you said, they have ball joints but I hear no popping sound at all, not yet. But something is telling it might be the sway bars.

Couple things. 1. An alignment is needed asap, it is 90% of your problem. 2. Replacing your sway bar (which isn't what we are talking about) doesn't have any affect on your alignment. 3. Sway bar links are still probably not the issue. Get an alignment.

Originally Posted by jonathan2263

Why would it not be worth checking them?

Because the car is going to drive like crap until he gets an alignment. Doing things in a logical order and eliminating variables is what makes good troubleshooting. It would be like checking for cavities in a bad tooth BEFORE you get a filling.

That was three things, but anyway old dog knows what he's talking about.

Alignment is standard thing to do after changing suspension parts, that's how to make car work like supposed to. I did those CABs just lately and i drove some before getting alignment next day and it made clear difference right away.

(And there i was told that no use to do rear wheels because bushings are finished, so my project still continues but front is fine now)

Update you guys;

So I went to get an alignment today and I feel like it made just a slight difference. Steering wheel isn't as hard. I still get that brake pull it always wants to go right or left depending on when braking or at uneven surfaces. I need to turn the steering wheel a little to the right in order to go straight. If I center the steering wheel, the car will move left.

Sigh...




Sway bar end links?

Might want to try a different alignment shop.

As for the pulling thats a brake issue Id imagine not something the alignments going to help with. Then again if the brakes are dragging that would cause steering issues all the time too.

Originally Posted by Words

Sway bar end links?

I agree with Crowz. In fact, I got a crappy alignment a month or so ago. Blew up my rear tire due to inside tire wear in less than 1500 miles.

I'd make them do it again or find a different shop. The braking issue sounds more like a control arm bushing problem than anything.

HMMM I paid 80 for this alignment. Maybe I should try a different shop.