Thee Build.

I've put a lot of thought into this, and after a days worth of research I'm scrapping the N/A build. The $/hp just is not worth it, I would be lucky to see 270 for $5k.

I'm just going to stick to the original plan of rebuild to stock, then beef up the brakes/suspension. And probably a new trans somewhere in there too.

I'm going to be keeping my eye out for a nice used AA stage I/II kit..hopefully I can source one out just as summer comes around

Yeah, trying to make any sort of power while remaining naturally aspirated is incredibly expensive, and the power figures still wouldn't be very impressive.

Thats what I would do in your situation. A healthy motor with all the common bolt-ons, should be plenty enough fun on a well sorted suspension.

Originally Posted by Thee_Antic

I've put a lot of thought into this, and after a days worth of research I'm scrapping the N/A build. The $/hp just is not worth it, I would be lucky to see 270 for $5k.

I'm just going to stick to the original plan of rebuild to stock, then beef up the brakes/suspension. And probably a new trans somewhere in there too.

I'm going to be keeping my eye out for a nice used AA stage I/II kit..hopefully I can source one out just as summer comes around

You can't even check oil levels, how would you be able to do any engine building? I don't think you will be doing any building at all.

Originally Posted by ZeGerman

Yeah, trying to make any sort of power while remaining naturally aspirated is incredibly expensive, and the power figures still wouldn't be very impressive.

Guy is some 16 year old day dreaming

Well Mr.Haken, you have sufficiently pissed me off.

You know that checkpoint on northbound 85 that you go through pretty often? You know Agent Trumbley and Agent Salazar? (Their the ones from your YouTube videos) Well apparently when you work for the DoD, and have someones full name, its pretty easy to get a hold of them.

They'll be expecting you.

I don't know what Haken's beef is... He seems to fly off the handle very easily.

I thought he was trolling seeing as he was banned from half of the other bimmer forums, whatever, I'm over it.

I'm confused as to what the hell is happening, but I would think using federal systems to look up someone you have a beef with on the interwebs would be a gross violation of system rules, privacy laws, and much more, not to mention making threats.......

Let's keep it civil in here.

Sent from my LG Revolution 4G using BimmerApp

No Federal system needed - You can find his YouTube channel by googling "HakenTT". He loses all respect for driving an automatic E30...

Seems like he likes to start trouble everywhere...

Originally Posted by Thee_Antic

Well apparently when you work for the DoD, and have someones full name, its pretty easy to get a hold of them.

To me, that implied some inappropriate use of government systems....
Sent from my LG Revolution 4G using BimmerApp

And we wonder why sometimes they are in a "bad" mood. You reap what you sew...I would rather be pleasant and enjoy my day!!

The quickest way to jail is by behaving in a standoffish and aggressive manner toward officers. This dude expects to be able to mouth off to federal officers and still be treated like decent person in return... Good luck with that...

Originally Posted by E36 Phantom

I'm confused as to what the hell is happening, but I would think using federal systems to look up someone you have a beef with on the interwebs would be a gross violation of system rules, privacy laws, and much more, not to mention making threats.......

I can assure you no DoD assets were used, some altercation is not worth losing my career over

Hey look! Car related stuff

Snapped a few quick pics last week before all of the hurricane mess hit









The interior needs a little work, but the seats are mint. Thats all I really cared about..those things are exxxppeensive.

And this is some select shots from Sat..further reinforcing my decision to rebuild/refresh the engine over thanksgiving break.

The plug old/new:



Notice the sad excuse of an electrode..and the fact that its covered in oil



The disgusting black gunk/sludge covering the top of the piston..





And the terribly abused valve cover..full of broken studs and jb weld




I've got a replacement tensioner coming wednesday so I can finally get her off of the lift, after that I'll be spending some quality time with her and my new DA buffer I got this weekend

Big plans amigos, big plans.

At least it has a brass bleeder screw! lol. Looks like it has the potential to be a fun project.

gm-synchromesh. I havnt heard of that stuff since i had my 3rd gen prelude. im assuming thats what you had, and the third gear was crunchy!?
all of the preludes were interesting cars.
lol.

I'm in the process of putting together a parts list, just wanted to run this by you all before I go through with it.

Suspension:

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E36-M3-...its/ES2226208/ (I know from personal experience that replacing bushings is a major P.i.a, any tool I can get to make things easier?)

For sway bars..does "you get what you pay for" apply? Originally I was looking at H&R but I noticed some whitelines pieces on ECS..they look fine?

Also contemplating this: http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E36-M3-...Kit/ES1895907/

After reading about bilsteins being rather harsh, I've decided on a worthy alternative: http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E36-M3-...Kit/ES2575398/

Adjustable dampers

With these: http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E36-M3-...s/HR/ES248637/

Total Cost = $2471.40

Brakes:

Rotors - Front: http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E36-M3-...ont/ES2190229/

Rear: http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E36-M3-...ear/ES2190231/

Pads: http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E36-M3-...ear/ES2592977/

E-Brake: http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...95-99%29%20%20

Random Hardware: $50

Fluid: http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...%20Liter%20%20

Should I rebuild my calipers or is it not worth the hassle? $40 vs $175..

Also how is ECS..are they a reliable site? Hows there customer service?

Thanks guys

Do not rebuild the calipers yourself. I recently rebuilt all my calipers and it cost me more than just buying 4 rebuilt calipers. Also one caliper was so rusted that I could not get the piston out. So I bought a rebuilt caliper at advanced auto for $45. It looked new and I wish I just bought 4 of them instead of trying to rebuild them myself.

ECS is a good site. Getting item shipped out can take some time but if it is going to take longer than the estimated time ESC will contact you. Then they will work with you to get your odder shipped

Originally Posted by southpark11235

Do not rebuild the calipers yourself.

Actually, I'd have to disagree here. I rebuilt my front caliper which had a seized piston, and it was very easy and only cost me about $3.50 for the rebuild kit (although I destroyed one kit and had to buy a second). Besides, 99% of the calipers you buy online are rebuilt units, so there's no reason why you can't be the one doing the rebuilding and save a boatload of money in the process. All you have to do is remove the piston, clean things up, install a new seal and dust boot and you're done.

ECS is a good company - just check their prices against other companies (factoring the shipping rates).

Originally Posted by ZeGerman

Actually, I'd have to disagree here. I rebuilt my front caliper which had a seized piston, and it was very easy and only cost me about $3.50 for the rebuild kit (although I destroyed one kit and had to buy a second). Besides, 99% of the calipers you buy online are rebuilt units, so there's no reason why you can't be the one doing the rebuilding and save a boatload of money in the process. All you have to do is remove the piston, clean things up, install a new seal and dust boot and you're done.

ECS is a good company - just check their prices against other companies (factoring the shipping rates).

Agreed. If the caliper is dirty, wire wheel and chemical clean it. Take the opprotunity to apply a nice coat of silver (or color of choice) caliper paint and you got new calipers for the cost of the rebuild kit and paint ($15 tops total). I did this on my '01 Volvo s60 and saved about $200 by rebuilding the calipers myself.

IMO I also look at my time having value. There are many things I do myself because it is cost effective. Rebuilding calipers is not one for the price I can buy them cleaned, painted reassembled with new seals ans boots...or any other necessary parts.

Originally Posted by ZeGerman

Actually, I'd have to disagree here. I rebuilt my front caliper which had a seized piston, and it was very easy and only cost me about $3.50 for the rebuild kit (although I destroyed one kit and had to buy a second). Besides, 99% of the calipers you buy online are rebuilt units, so there's no reason why you can't be the one doing the rebuilding and save a boatload of money in the process. All you have to do is remove the piston, clean things up, install a new seal and dust boot and you're done.

Where did you find a rebuild kit for $3.50? The front seals cost me $11.50 per caliper. The rear seals cost $20 per caliper. Then $11.50 per caliper for the rubber guide bushings. The bleeder screws cost $4.50 per caliper. Then $7 for grease and $20 for diesel. My left and right rear caliper had different bleeder screws so I had to run to advanced auto and spend $7 on a bleeder screw that would fit. The front right caliper piston was so rusted that I could not remove it. So I had to spend $45 on a rebuilt caliper. Maybe I was just unlucky and had a bad experience but if I could do it over I would just buy the rebuilt calipers.

Took me about 30-45 minutes to rebuild a caliper, plus the knowledge gained from doing it yourself is not without it's own value.

Originally Posted by southpark11235

Where did you find a rebuild kit for $3.50? The front seals cost me $11.50 per caliper. The rear seals cost $20 per caliper. Then $11.50 per caliper for the rubber guide bushings. The bleeder screws cost $4.50 per caliper. Then $7 for grease and $20 for diesel. My left and right rear caliper had different bleeder screws so I had to run to advanced auto and spend $7 on a bleeder screws that will fit. The front right caliper piston was so rusted that I could not remove it. So I had to spend $45 on a rebuilt caliper. Maybe I was just unlucky and had a bad experience but if I could do it over I would just buy the rebuilt calipers.

You're talking about a TOTAL rebuild, which is unnecessary for most people. Since the only thing wrong with my caliper was that the piston had seized, and everything else was in good condition, I simply took it apart, cleaned it, replaced the seals, put it back together and it's been working perfectly ever since. Here's the rebuild kit I used:

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...er+rebuild+kit

I just looked at the price of everything at oreily’s auto parts and wow did I over pay at pelican. ZeGerman you are right and I rescind my two previous negative comments about rebuilding one’s own calipers.