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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 09-21-2013, 01:09 PM
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16valex 16valex is offline
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ABS light ON

I need to understand this ABS logic craziness.
MY 97-528 ABS light is ON. Because it is a 97 more likely it's one of the wheel speed sensors. since my CC still works I take a chance and bought a front wheel speed sensor.

Installed the new sensor on left front, backed out of the garage then went forward and the ABS light turned OFF, went about half a mile hit the brake, pedal felt funny then ABS light came right back ON.

Turned around home, disconnect the battery for 30 minutes. I don't have ABS diagnostic device to reset ABS light BTW.

Started it up and here;s the light. Backed out of garage and forward and once again the light turned itself OFF. And once again half mile down the road hit the brake, the brake felt funny and you know it, here came the light.

What should I do? Should I replace the right front now with the old left? Should I drive a little more to let it calibrate? I need your expert opinions. TIA.
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  #2  
Old 09-21-2013, 02:17 PM
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johnstern johnstern is offline
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Alex- Did you hit the brake hard enough for the car to skid. If not, can you remove the sensor you replaced and look into the hole at the tone ring (looks like a geared wheel). This tone ring should be clean-no dirt or rust-so it can generate an AC current when the "gears" go by the sensor. Sometimes the tone ring gets dirty, the AC current becomes erratic, and this fools the ABS computer into thinking that the wheel is skidding when you hit the brakes, even lightly.

It would be good to get that wheel off the ground so you can turn it and get a good look at the entire circumference of the tone ring.

Edit-If the tone ring is not clean, you'll have to invent a way to clean it. Otherwise, I believe, you'll have to replace the wheel bearing. The tone ring is an integral part of the bearing.

Edit2-I just remembered! You might want to ohm out your ABS sensors. They should be all in the same 'ball park'. If one of the sensors is way off, I'd guess that's the bad one. That's how I diagnosed the bad sensor on my 1980 E23 recently. The left rear sensor did not even register any ohms. The other 3 sensors were all around 1K ohms.

Last edited by johnstern; 09-21-2013 at 02:51 PM.
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  #3  
Old 09-21-2013, 02:54 PM
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16valex 16valex is offline
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Quote:
johnstern;7850305]Alex- Did you hit the brake hard enough for the car to skid. If not, can you remove the sensor you replaced and look into the hole at the tone ring (looks like a geared wheel). This tone ring should be clean-no dirt or rust-so it can generate an AC current when the "gears" go by the sensor. Sometimes the tone ring gets dirty, the AC current becomes erratic, and this fools the ABS computer into thinking that the wheel is skidding when you hit the brakes, even lightly.
John,
I took a peak, it didn't look all that bad. The ring that moves with the wheel looks good but the stationary part look a little rusty.

Quote:
It would be good to get that wheel off the ground so you can turn it and get a good look at the entire circumference of the tone ring.
This is good idea, I didn't look at the entire ring.

Quote:
Edit-If the tone ring is not clean, you'll have to invent a way to clean it. Otherwise, I believe, you'll have to replace the wheel bearing. The tone ring is an integral part of the bearing.
Yeah, it may come down to the bearing but hopefully not. This is all started after I ripped the stupid brake shield due to annoy scrappy screeching during hard turn. I guess I'm paying for it now..
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  #4  
Old 09-21-2013, 03:51 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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I remember reading somewhere that one can check the resistance (Ohm) in each sensor.
This way you can pinpoint the culprit.

I think this is the thread that talked about it:

http://forum.roadfly.com/threads/115...sor-resistance
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  #5  
Old 09-21-2013, 04:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 16valex View Post
I need to understand this ABS logic craziness.
Dunno if it helps for a 97, but this PDF is chock full of details:
- BMW_30-PAGE_DSC_COMPONENTS.PDF (1.69 MB, 4911 views)


Quote:
Originally Posted by 16valex View Post
MY 97-528 ABS light is ON.
Interesting that it's only the one light; as you know, most people who have wheel speed sensor issues get two or three lights (i.e., abs, brake, dsc/asc).

Quote:
Originally Posted by 16valex View Post
disconnect the battery for 30 minutes. I don't have ABS diagnostic device to reset ABS light BTW.
I have read, many times, about disconnecting the battery, but, to date, I don't remember a single person writing back that it worked, who didn't write back that it didn't work.

Is this battery reset procedure for ABS issues a myth or reality? Certainly for my 2002, it's a myth. Not sure about the 97, but, it would seem to be a myth. likewise with the existence of a reset tool.

I'm not sure why there hasn't been mention of a reset tool. Many have asked; but again, I don't know of any tool offhand. Again, there are none for my 2002; but maybe the 97 is different (since we know the ABS harness is different in the older E39s).

Quote:
Originally Posted by 16valex View Post
Should I replace the right front now with the old left?
According to our studies on the bifecta and trifecta, there are six tests you can run on a wheel speed sensor.

Are the wheel speed sensors so different for the 1997 that these tests wouldn't work?
- How to diagnose the BMW amber ABS BRAKE DSC/ASC trifecta or bifecta (1)

Note: This POST I just referred you to, I'm sure you know about since it has had over 300K views; it does have the pinout for the older E39s, but it's not in the POST I just referred you to (it's later in the thread). Here is just one post, about testing the older E39s:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flybot View Post
It should be noted that there are two different wheel speed sensors on our E39s, and they have two different testing procedures. Both noted in this thread. I didnt really catch that detail when I first read through this thread. Then when I did note it, I wasnt sure if there was a difference between a hall effect and variable reluctance type of sensor. But it turns out, they are two different things. The old sensors were used from '97 through 8/98 and are variable reluctance sensors. The newer ones are Hall effect sensors. Obviously, you need to use the correct test procedure for your year car. But that can get confusing on these huge threads.

The old sensors pretty much just have a resistance test. The newer ones include, among other things, a diode test.

Just for clarification and for future DIYers-

According to the M3 thread (post #645 above) the test for the Variable Reluctance Sensors is:

Perform all of these tests with the ignition in position 3.

Our cars use Variable Reluctance type wheel speed sensors. In the tip of the WSS is a magnet and a coil that produces an AC voltage proportionate to the rotational speed of the wheel. This signal is sent to your ABS computer where it uses it to monitor the speed of your wheel rotation to decide when to activate/deactivate the ABS solenoids.

Test the sensor for proper resistance:

The specification for resistance of the sensors per BMW is between .5 -2 Ohms. Test this by identifying the proper pins in your connector that apply to that sensor. Let's use the rear Right for example. Using the above pinouts we see that pins 10, 45 are the 2 pins for the sensor. To measure the resistance over the WSS, apply your black multimeter probe to pin 10 and the red on pin 45. With your multimeter set on ohms you will get a reading. Do this on all 4 sensors. If the sensor is out of spec for resistance, replace it.


Test the sensor for proper function:

With your multimeter set to read AC volts, remove the wheel, then unplug the sensor from the harness. Probe the + pin in the connector on the harness side with red, and the ground pin with the black and spin the wheel. You should see your voltage produced increase with speed of the rotating wheel. Do this for all 4 sensors. If the voltage is not consistent with wheel speed replace the sensor.

But for the newer Hall Effect Sensors the test is (Post #48)

TEST WHEEL SENSOR CIRCUIT FROM THE ABS CONNECTOR (also checks wiring circuit):
OPTIONAL: Jack car up (so that all four wheels can be spun to test voltage & resistance fluctuations of the hall-effect sensors)
- Turn the car off and remove the key from the ignition.
- TEST 1: Switch the DMM into the diode test position
- Wrap a stiff 20AWG wire onto the ends of your DMM probe for sticking into ABS-connector pins
- Label the positive 20AWG wire with white tape so that you won't get confused as you switch back and forth
- Stick the ends of the wire into the appropriate female holes of the ABS connector (13-29, 30-31, 28-12, 15-16)
- In one direction, you should see 1.7 to 1.8 volts (note the pinouts mentioned are in order, positive to negative)
- In the other direction, you should see OL or some other infinite reading (open circuit)
- TEST 2: Switch the DMM into resistance checking mode (optional)
- You should see around 3.3 Mega ohms in one direction & approximately twice that in the other direction (but some say more)
- TEST 3: If desired spin the wheel at about 1 revolution per second, by hand (the resistance should fluctuate as the wheel spins)
- TEST 4: Switch the DMM into millivolt mode (optional) & again spin the tire & wheel assembly by hand (test-lead polarity won't matter)
- You should read between 1 and 5 mV when you spin the hub (no voltage implicate the sensor or circuit)
- OPTIONAL TESTS BELOW REQUIRE FLYING LEADS WITH THE IGNITION SYSTEM ABS SYSTEM CONNECTED & POWERED UP:
- TEST 5: Swith the DMM into the 10v and attach flying leads to the sensors with the power on
- You should see the voltage going to the sensor and the return signal
- Expect a baseline voltage of about +5 to +12 volts depending on the ABS system (does anyone know this value?)
- Expect that baseline voltage to the sensor to change (by how much?) as you spin the wheels
- TEST 6: Hook an oscilloscope with "flying leads" to the ABS sensors (notice that the ABS system must be powered)
- You should see nice clean square waves generated as you hand spin the wheels at about 1 revolution per second.
Note: The oscilliscope can detect problems that can't easily be found with a DMM (A scope pattern for a wheel speed sensor should show a classic sine wave alternating current pattern that changes both in frequency and amplitude with wheel speed. As the wheel is turned faster, signal frequency and amplitude should both increase. Damaged or missing teeth on the sensor ring will show up as flat spots or gaps in the sine wave pattern. A bent axle or hub will produce an undulating pattern that changes as the strength of the sensor signal changes with every revolution. If the scope pattern produced by the sensor is flattened (diminished amplitude) or is erratic, it usually indicates a weak signal caused by an excessively wide air gap between the tip of the sensor and its ring, or a buildup of metallic debris on the end of the sensor. A weak signal can also be caused by internal resistance in the sensor or its wiring circuit, or loose or corroded wiring connectors.)

INTERPRET DIODE-TEST RESULTS:
- If the DMM, in diode mode, reads infinity ("OL") in both directions, you've got a bad sensor or circuit
- If the DMM, in resistance mode, reads much greater than 7Mohms, you've got a bad sensor or circuit
- If all 4 sensors read OK, it's most likely the ABS control unit.
- If you think you found two bad sensors, you probably messed up.
- Rarely is the cause due to bad steering angle (yaw/lew) sensors
- Rarely is the cause due to a bad hydro unit
- The problem is almost always a wheel rotation sensor or the ABS control unit

Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
I remember reading somewhere that one can check the resistance (Ohm) in each sensor.
Doesn't this post by Flybot (and followup posts) show how to test the older E39 sensors?
- Testing the older BMW E39 wheel speed sensors (1)


See also:
- How to diagnose the BMW amber ABS BRAKE DSC/ASC trifecta or bifecta (1) & what are all known options when your ABS control module is bad (1) & Quick99Si's explanation of why the 10-minute wheel speed sensor diode-action quick test doesn't always work, especially on brand new non-OEM wheel speed sensors (1) (2) & explanations by 540iman as to why the fancy diagnostic tools very often (extremely often, like almost all the time) fail to properly diagnose the trifecta or bifecta (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) & where to get the fancy schmancy diagnostic tools for free once you're aware of these limitations (1) & an ABS BRAKE DSC trifecta brake pressure sensor diagnostic DIY (1) & how to test and replace the steering angle sensor (1)
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Last edited by bluebee; 09-22-2013 at 04:35 AM.
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  #6  
Old 09-21-2013, 04:43 PM
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johnstern johnstern is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 16valex View Post
John,
This is all started after I ripped the stupid brake shield due to annoy scrappy screeching during hard turn. I guess I'm paying for it now..
I can't understand how the brake shield could effect the ABS sensor or tone ring but then again I'm not there to observe. Maybe you just pissed the car off by ripping at it. Perhaps some kind words would make the car behave and repent and end it's foolish ways.

If I can remember my days working at the garage, when the tone ring is damaged, rusty, dirty, etc. the ABS light would stay off while driving as the generated AC current would be normal but once you start slowing down and braking (with the tone ring moving more slowly) the current would become erratic causing the ABS computer to start pulsing the brakes and then become 'confused' and the light would turn on.

Please let us know what you find when you look at the whole tone ring.

BTW-have you inspected the wiring to the sensor. Maybe that got damaged with the screeching, scraping. Knowing your thoroughness, you've probably done that already but I thought I'd mention it.

Last edited by johnstern; 09-21-2013 at 04:50 PM.
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Old 09-21-2013, 04:57 PM
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Bluebee-FYI the 97s had the ABS control unit located above the glove box, safe from the engine heat which causes so many problems in the later cars. So when you get an ABS light in a 97, you know it is a problem with an ABS component rather than the possibility of the control unit itself giving a false reading because it has been cooked to death, so to speak.
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Old 09-21-2013, 05:20 PM
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16valex 16valex is offline
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Quote:
johnstern;7850485]I can't understand how the brake shield could effect the ABS sensor or tone ring but then again I'm not there to observe. Maybe you just pissed the car off by ripping at it. Perhaps some kind words would make the car behave and repent and end it's foolish ways.
John, sorry I'm a lazy writer. I didn't elaborate the connection of the brake shieldand ABS issue, but indirectly the brake shield has a lot to do with my eventual ABS kaput. Knowing what I know now I would have never ripped it off, it's there for a very good reason is to block water from getting into vital parts like the tone ring. I believe water has gotten inside, soon after the brake shield was removed my ABS system's behavior has been erratic and eventually belly up.

Quote:
If I can remember my days working at the garage, when the tone ring is damaged, rusty, dirty, etc. the ABS light would stay off while driving as the generated AC current would be normal but once you start slowing down and braking (with the tone ring moving more slowly) the current would become erratic causing the ABS computer to start pulsing the brakes and then become 'confused' and the light would turn on
You've got it, well put, I couldn't have explained it any better, I think my tone ring is rusted bad that even at high way speed the light will just show up w/o warning..I think you have nailed it on the head. I have lots of work ahead of me, some how I going to clean that tone ring in order to have a strong signals. I may have to whip out my scope for this job.

Quote:
Please let us know what you find when you look at the whole tone ring.
Definitely.

Quote:
BTW-have you inspected the wiring to the sensor. Maybe that got damaged with the screeching, scraping. Knowing your thoroughness, you've probably done that already but I thought I'd mention it.
Yes, you're right.
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  #9  
Old 09-21-2013, 05:26 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnstern View Post
Bluebee-FYI the 97s had the ABS control unit located above the glove box
I know the 97 is different as we spent a lot of time working out the pinout and the procedure for testing the sensors in the trifecta thread.

But, I also know that the OP is aware of that thread, and, that the OP doesn't have the bifecta or trifecta, but just the ABS light.

So I offered what I could which is what is in that thread, for the older E39s.
I hope it helps.

The OP can post back to the canonical thread, once all the culprits are tested.
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  #10  
Old 09-21-2013, 05:36 PM
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16valex 16valex is offline
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Quote:
Interesting that it's only the one light; as you know, most people who have wheel speed sensor issues get two or three lights (i.e., abs, brake, dsc/asc).
BB, the 97 and 98 ABS module are very bullet proof, it resides inside the the passenger compartment, the 99 and newer have to deal with exhaust manifold heat and therefore vulnerable to failure. Besides that, the latter years use the steering angle sensor in-conjunction with 4 wheel speed sensors. So it is not strange for a 97 to have just a single ABS light on.

Quote:
I have read, many times, about disconnecting the battery, but, to date, I don't remember a single person writing back that it worked, who didn't write back that it didn't work.

Is this battery reset procedure for ABS issues a myth or reality? Certainly for my 2002, it's a myth. Not sure about the 97, but, it would seem to be a myth. likewise with the existence of a reset tool.
When it comes to E39 and disconnecting battery in hope to resolve any issue, it's usually just a myth.




Quote:
According to our studies on the bifecta and trifecta, there are six tests you can run on a wheel speed sensor.

Why wouldn't those six Hall effect wheel speed sensor tests work on a 1997?
- How to diagnose the BMW amber ABS BRAKE DSC/ASC trifecta or bifecta (1)

Note: This POST I just referred you to, I'm sure you know about since it has had over 300K views; it does have the pinout for the older E39s, but it's not in the POST I just referred you to (it's later in the thread). Here is just one post, about testing the older E39s:
Thanks for the link, but I think I going to take a short cut using my old fashion way of the good old scope. I plan to to take a look at the signal through out the whole ring. I suspect it's going to be very bad signal.
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Old 09-21-2013, 05:38 PM
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16valex 16valex is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
I remember reading somewhere that one can check the resistance (Ohm) in each sensor.
This way you can pinpoint the culprit.

I think this is the thread that talked about it:

http://forum.roadfly.com/threads/115...sor-resistance
I'm sure you can, but I think the best way is to check for signal with a scope. Not everyone has a scope though.
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Old 09-21-2013, 07:03 PM
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Alex-I wanted to tell you of my experience in working on my 33 year old E23, 7 series ABS system that might help you after you have cleaned everything and are reinstalling the sensor.

I had ohmed all the sensors and found that the LR had no reading-had to be a bad sensor. I dreaded taking the sensor out because I thought after 33 years it would be rusted in. I first had to remove a rubber boot that fit tightly over the sensor, wire and place where the sensor was attached. The boot was in perfect shape and everything under the boot was spotless.. I then removed the allen head bolt holding the sensor. There was still some dielectric grease in the allen head and the bolt came out easy and shinny. Then I twisted the sensor slightly while pulling and it came right out. There was dielectric grease all around the o-ring that was further sealing the hole. The sensor itself looked like it had been installed yesterday, not 33 years ago. It was shinny and new looking. I then looked into the hole with a flashlight and the tone ring was shinny like a mirror. WOW!!! Did BMW build cars well 33 years ago.

So I am thinking that once everything is cleaned up, you could use some dielectric grease as a sealer. Then you could paint the outside of the sensor and the surrounding area with liquid electrical tape as a further seal against water and dirt, just like the rubber boot. You'd have to put 3 or 4 coats on with at least 5 minutes between coats but the stuff is tough but easy to remove with a pick or screw driver. Hopefully things would stay clean after that.

Good luck with your cleaning.
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Old 09-21-2013, 07:36 PM
AllesklarBMW AllesklarBMW is offline
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There are people here much more deeper into the details of the E39, I am new to the game however, I had a similar issue(s) discussed above.

Here is what happened to me. The lot I bought my Bimmer from is a certified BMW shop. I had a "Brake", "DTS" light on. After 2 weeks of replacing nearly every part in the ABS system (temporarily with on lot components to isolate the fault- no charge to me yet), it was determined that my ABS module (sits adjacent to computer) was bad.
After ordering it (appx 750 US dollars) and installing software updates (2 times) at Seattle BMW...the light after 4 weeks of down time, is off.

I still have another issue. When I first start up car and jump on it hard around corners...the "transmission fault" notice lights up and I get put into "limp home mode" (4th gear). It simply requires a OBDII clear and it goes away until I drive spirited (I notice only after first starting up within a few minutes)...it comes on again. I assume I will be replacing a "wheel spin sensor" at some point.

Sorry if I didn't add to the thread...I'm the new guy. It sounds to me like the OP may be looking at a new ABS module?
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Old 09-21-2013, 08:03 PM
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16valex 16valex is offline
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Quote:
Sorry if I didn't add to the thread...I'm the new guy. It sounds to me like the OP may be looking at a new ABS module?
Everybody is new at some point.

No, I'm 99% sure that it is NOT the module.
1/ 97-98 ABS module ECU is inside the cabin.
2/ The behavior of my symptom.
3/ Per Jstern explaination. I have a bad proximity signal due to rust in the tone ring from me removed the brake shield.

80% of the time you're right, the ABS ECU got fried by heat from the engine exhaust manifold. ( I think the German did this on purpose)
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Old 09-21-2013, 08:09 PM
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16valex 16valex is offline
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Quote:
johnstern;7850649]Alex-I wanted to tell you of my experience in working on my 33 year old E23, 7 series ABS system that might help you after you have cleaned everything and are reinstalling the sensor.

I had ohmed all the sensors and found that the LR had no reading-had to be a bad sensor. I dreaded taking the sensor out because I thought after 33 years it would be rusted in. I first had to remove a rubber boot that fit tightly over the sensor, wire and place where the sensor was attached. The boot was in perfect shape and everything under the boot was spotless.. I then removed the allen head bolt holding the sensor. There was still some dielectric grease in the allen head and the bolt came out easy and shinny. Then I twisted the sensor slightly while pulling and it came right out. There was dielectric grease all around the o-ring that was further sealing the hole. The sensor itself looked like it had been installed yesterday, not 33 years ago. It was shinny and new looking. I then looked into the hole with a flashlight and the tone ring was shinny like a mirror. WOW!!! Did BMW build cars well 33 years ago.
Wow wow wow.. I guess back then engineers were incharged in the design vs today it's the bean counters.

Quote:
So I am thinking that once everything is cleaned up, you could use some dielectric grease as a sealer. Then you could paint the outside of the sensor and the surrounding area with liquid electrical tape as a further seal against water and dirt, just like the rubber boot. You'd have to put 3 or 4 coats on with at least 5 minutes between coats but the stuff is tough but easy to remove with a pick or screw driver. Hopefully things would stay clean after that.

Good luck with your cleaning.
Thanks for the advice John. I may have to do something like that.
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  #16  
Old 09-21-2013, 08:25 PM
AllesklarBMW AllesklarBMW is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 16valex View Post
Everybody is new at some point.

No, I'm 99% sure that it is NOT the module.
1/ 97-98 ABS module ECU is inside the cabin.
2/ The behavior of my symptom.
3/ Per Jstern explaination. I have a bad proximity signal due to rust in the tone ring from me removed the brake shield.

80% of the time you're right, the ABS ECU got fried by heat from the engine exhaust manifold. ( I think the German did this on purpose)
Oh ok, mine was in engine compartment (2002).

I worked for German high tech company for 20 years...we did make alot of money in spare parts (transport aircraft components).

;p
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Old 09-22-2013, 04:49 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 16valex View Post
So it is not strange for a 97 to have just a single ABS light on.
Thanks for that information; I'll add it to the canonical ABS trifecta thread so that others may be aware of what you already know.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 16valex View Post
I plan to to take a look at the signal through out the whole ring.
Would post #265 and the ones around it help you at all?
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Last edited by bluebee; 09-22-2013 at 04:50 AM.
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  #18  
Old 09-22-2013, 04:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
Thanks for that information; I'll add it to the canonical ABS trifecta thread so that others may be aware of what you already know.



Would post #265 and the ones around it help you at all?
BB, you're such a scholar and yes that thread is very helpful with all the pin outs. I was planing to disconnect the connector at the wheel-well if I was going to use a scope.
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  #19  
Old 09-22-2013, 09:15 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 16valex View Post
BB, you're such a scholar and yes that thread is very helpful with all the pin outs. I was planing to disconnect the connector at the wheel-well if I was going to use a scope.
Yeah, I guess I've self-appointed myself the head librarian of the group!

I apologize that the thread I pointed you to has over 725 posts, but, since over 300K people have viewed it, I think it does contain, scattered about, most of what you need.

It would be helpful, when you're all done, if you can pop a summary of how to test the older E39 wheel speed sensors into that thread (or here, and I'll cross reference it).
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Note: Your mission, should you decide to accept it, is to add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need, in seconds!
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  #20  
Old 09-22-2013, 11:52 AM
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16valex 16valex is offline
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Success!

Just came back from a 20 miles drive after I cleaned both sides of the front bearing tone rings. ABS was OFF from the start of the engine and had been that way through the whole duration of high way and local stop and go speeds. Gotta love it when thing goes as planed...Woo Hoo...

Here is a quick summary how I cleaned the tone rings.

- Jack the front of the car with both side tires off the ground.
- Remove both side wheel speed sensors. Depends on the condition of your car, mine was dirty and full of rust particle on the sensor itself and on the tone rings.
- Clean the sensors with some solvent, I happened to have some MAF sensor cleaner in my garage.
- For the tone ring, I blew into the sensor hole with compressed air, I then sprayed generously with WD-40 as I slowly rotate the wheel.
- Wrap a cleaned rag to the round end of a 1/4 inch ratchet extension. (about 5" long)
- Stick the wrapped 1/4" extension into the sensor hole, give it a little pressure as you rotate the wheel, go at it for a few revolutions.
- Check and see if it's clean, if not do some more until you're happy.
- Spray some paint thinner or solvent into the hole as you rotate the wheel a couple of rev.
I used MAF sensor cleaner, just happened to have some in the garage.
- Go over the cleaning business again, this time with a different cleaned rag.
- Blow out any residual with compressed air. (maybe you don't need to but I have compressed air in the garage so why not)
- You are done. Put everything back and enjoy your drive.

Some pix, the first 3 pix are before, the last two pix are after cleaned, enjoy!
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  #21  
Old 09-22-2013, 11:58 AM
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16valex 16valex is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
Yeah, I guess I've self-appointed myself the head librarian of the group!

I apologize that the thread I pointed you to has over 725 posts, but, since over 300K people have viewed it, I think it does contain, scattered about, most of what you need.

It would be helpful, when you're all done, if you can pop a summary of how to test the older E39 wheel speed sensors into that thread (or here, and I'll cross reference it).
BB, no one can match the level of your dedication to a car forum is an understatement.

Sorry but I didn't make a science out of this, not my type BTW... I took a short cut and it worked, so I'm stoke.
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  #22  
Old 09-23-2013, 02:34 PM
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johnstern johnstern is offline
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Congrats on your fix, Alex. Your pictures tell the story. What a difference in the tone rings-from really nasty to OE clean.

This is where DIY becomes so important. A shop would have replaced both sensors and both wheel bearings to avoid a comeback, and, at least, a $700 bill.
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  #23  
Old 09-23-2013, 02:40 PM
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16valex 16valex is offline
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Originally Posted by johnstern View Post
Congrats on your fix, Alex. Your pictures tell the story. What a difference in the tone rings-from really nasty to OE clean.

This is where DIY becomes so important. A shop would have replaced both sensors and both wheel bearings to avoid a comeback, and, at least, a $700 bill.
Thanks John,
The stealership probably wanted to replace your ABS module too plus coding cost, by the time they've done you'll be bowed legged!
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  #24  
Old 09-24-2013, 05:30 PM
AllesklarBMW AllesklarBMW is offline
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Originally Posted by 16valex View Post
Thanks John,
The stealership probably wanted to replace your ABS module too plus coding cost, by the time they've done you'll be bowed legged!
Lol, yeah I can see that happening.

I was lucky...my shop charged me for the part alone and ate the labour because it took them long time to diagnose the issue, even waiving the $200 software install.
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  #25  
Old 09-24-2013, 05:55 PM
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16valex 16valex is offline
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Originally Posted by AllesklarBMW View Post
Lol, yeah I can see that happening.

I was lucky...my shop charged me for the part alone and ate the labour because it took them long time to diagnose the issue, even waiving the $200 software install.
That was nice of them not to charge you.
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