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Do-It-Yourself H.Q.
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  #1  
Old 01-21-2016, 04:31 PM
everywill everywill is offline
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F30 power folding mirror retrofit wiring

Retrofitted power folding mirror to my 2012 F30 in last Nov. Spent approx 3 hours. Since I did the work alone, no photos have been taken.



The fitting is very straight forward, removing door cards then loosen 3 torx screws holding mirror. Search in Youtube for door card removal. Bavsound has a detailed video.



Following is a wiring note I made for my work.



Driver side is basically P&P as long as you have the correct lifter switch with folding button.



For passenger side, there are 3 connections to be made.



A73 PIN2 X5 PIN26 A173*3B PIN49

A73 PIN5 X5 PIN12 A173*4B PIN27

A73 PIN6 X5 PIN14 Z7 Fuse 22



A73 is the plug to the mirror base.
Click image for larger version

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X15 is the socket on passenger side door frame, you need to unplug it first by lifting the plastic lock upward. On the door side, slip the socket upward expose the back of contact housing, feed the three wires through rubber goment and insert bushing contacts into the housing. On the body side, you will need to remove the FEM for access.
Click image for larger version

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A173 is the FEM.


Z7 is the front fuse box in engine compartment. This connection is shared with driver side PIN14.
Click image for larger version

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Last edited by everywill; 01-22-2016 at 03:17 AM.
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  #2  
Old 01-21-2016, 04:33 PM
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tim330i tim330i is offline
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Cool! Thanks for sharing this DIY

Tim
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  #3  
Old 03-15-2016, 04:36 PM
meph137 meph137 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by everywill View Post
Retrofitted power folding mirror to my 2012 F30 in last Nov. Spent approx 3 hours. Since I did the work alone, no photos have been taken.



The fitting is very straight forward, removing door cards then loosen 3 torx screws holding mirror. Search in Youtube for door card removal. Bavsound has a detailed video.



Following is a wiring note I made for my work.



Driver side is basically P&P as long as you have the correct lifter switch with folding button.



For passenger side, there are 3 connections to be made.



A73 PIN2 X5 PIN26 A173*3B PIN49

A73 PIN5 X5 PIN12 A173*4B PIN27

A73 PIN6 X5 PIN14 Z7 Fuse 22



A73 is the plug to the mirror base.
Attachment 547369

X15 is the socket on passenger side door frame, you need to unplug it first by lifting the plastic lock upward. On the door side, slip the socket upward expose the back of contact housing, feed the three wires through rubber goment and insert bushing contacts into the housing. On the body side, you will need to remove the FEM for access.
Attachment 547370


A173 is the FEM.


Z7 is the front fuse box in engine compartment. This connection is shared with driver side PIN14.
Attachment 547371
Cheers everywill - surprised I don't see more folding mirror retrofits, it's something I really miss having! A few questions though:
  1. Where did you find this information out, and source the diagrams? Rheingold?
  2. You said driver side is Plug n Play but didn't mention having to buy the door wiring looms, I presume these are needed? (though I notice that realoem only lists one loom variant for the driver side)
  3. How did you remove the moisture barrier, and did you re-apply new butyl tape when you refitted it?
  4. What type of wiring did you use for the 3 new connections?
  5. Do you know what the 3 new connections are? I assume 2 are for the LIN bus and 1 is for power?
  6. Does this also achieve auto dipping?

Thanks for the help

Last edited by meph137; 03-15-2016 at 04:43 PM.
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  #4  
Old 03-15-2016, 04:54 PM
everywill everywill is offline
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1. Yes, from ISTA-D
2. Yes, I got a wiring loom from the car that originally equipped with power folding mirror. Sorry I forgot to mention this. I don't know if you can actually find the loom from official catalogue. I always assume BMW need to customise made the wiring based on your VIN. But you definitely can modify the existing loom, just add couple of wires according to the diagram.
3. I assume the moisture barrier means the form insert between mirror base and door frame. There's no glue or tape there. Just unscrew the three torx screws and remove the mirror and form. Then reuse them on new pair.
4. If you wanna be super detail, you can find the correct wire gauge on wiring diagram. But I simply use 1 mm2 automotive wires which are more than capable.
5. One LIN bus, one can't remember and one for power. Just check ISTAD FEM page and see what the PIN number is assigned for. Sorry, my dedicated laptop is not here at this moment.
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  #5  
Old 03-15-2016, 05:35 PM
meph137 meph137 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by everywill View Post
1. Yes, from ISTA-D
2. Yes, I got a wiring loom from the car that originally equipped with power folding mirror. Sorry I forgot to mention this. I don't know if you can actually find the loom from official catalogue. I always assume BMW need to customise made the wiring based on your VIN. But you definitely can modify the existing loom, just add couple of wires according to the diagram.
3. I assume the moisture barrier means the form insert between mirror base and door frame. There's no glue or tape there. Just unscrew the three torx screws and remove the mirror and form. Then reuse them on new pair.
4. If you wanna be super detail, you can find the correct wire gauge on wiring diagram. But I simply use 1 mm2 automotive wires which are more than capable.
5. One LIN bus, one can't remember and one for power. Just check ISTAD FEM page and see what the PIN number is assigned for. Sorry, my dedicated laptop is not here at this moment.
Cheers for this

Re 1. yeh I'm very confused by realoem, I can't determine the correct cable to use. You reckon it would be ok to modify the existing loom potentially, rather than getting a new one?

Re 3. (moisture barrier), I mean this - you have to remove it to put the new loom in right?:



Another one - does this achieve auto dipping on reverse as well?

Last edited by meph137; 03-15-2016 at 05:38 PM.
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  #6  
Old 03-15-2016, 05:50 PM
everywill everywill is offline
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1. Yes. I think it's doable. The only thing I can't remember is that whether the connector on the non-folding switch is same as folding version. If you search for some photos to compare you could get the answer. The connectors on the door frames are definitely same. You just need to insert additional pin contacts.

2. Yes, you need to remove this to remove and install the loom. However, it's like gum which means if you peel it off from one corner, it's easily removable and reusable. Not a problem. There's a tip here, when removing cable fixings, please do your best not to break them since if looms not fit the factory way, they may interfere with the window mechanism, which may lead to nastily problems.

Finally. Yes, if you VO code FEM properly, the dip function should be fine. There has long been a theory that this requires seat memory module. Although my car has memory seat, I don't believe it is a must. If you do your research in ISTAD you will find its controlled by FEM rather than SM/SM2.
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  #7  
Old 03-15-2016, 06:01 PM
meph137 meph137 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by everywill View Post
1. Yes. I think it's doable. The only thing I can't remember is that whether the connector on the non-folding switch is same as folding version. If you search for some photos to compare you could get the answer. The connectors on the door frames are definitely same. You just need to insert additional pin contacts.

2. Yes, you need to remove this to remove and install the loom. However, it's like gum which means if you peel it off from one corner, it's easily removable and reusable. Not a problem. There's a tip here, when removing cable fixings, please do your best not to break them since if looms not fit the factory way, they may interfere with the window mechanism, which may lead to nastily problems.

Finally. Yes, if you VO code FEM properly, the dip function should be fine. There has long been a theory that this requires seat memory module. Although my car has memory seat, I don't believe it is a must. If you do your research in ISTAD you will find its controlled by FEM rather than SM/SM2.
Great, thanks a lot for these answers - I suppose I can be a Guinea pig for the dipping without memory module, as I don't have power seats!
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  #8  
Old 03-15-2016, 06:05 PM
everywill everywill is offline
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Good luck. Please let us know.
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  #9  
Old 03-17-2016, 05:09 AM
meph137 meph137 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by everywill View Post
Good luck. Please let us know.
Got your wiring looms, bloody quick as well! Cheers for that I've also now got three (why I bought 3 I have no idea) mirrors and a driver side switch, so am ready to start fiddling

I'm not going to have time to fit the mirrors for a week or two, is there a way I can test they fold outside the car? I assume I can't just supply 12v to one of the 5 pins, as I assume they are linbus controlled?
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  #10  
Old 03-17-2016, 05:19 AM
everywill everywill is offline
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F30 power folding mirror retrofit wiring

I think you can modify the extra pair of loom first. Then VO code the car and unplug the sockets on driver side door frame. Since this side doesn't require any in-car wiring, you can plug in your modified looms and switch & mirror without remove the door card. (In other words, only connect the loom at the door hinge.)

And do your in-car wiring X 3 of passenger side first and then plug-in-test outside the car like what you did on the driver side.

These are what I would do if I were you.

Last edited by everywill; 03-17-2016 at 05:21 AM.
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  #11  
Old 04-04-2016, 02:20 PM
///Mister J ///Mister J is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meph137 View Post

I'm not going to have time to fit the mirrors for a week or two,
Hi,

i really like to do this retrofit as well. I've got myself a couple of mirrors and the switch unit. I'm hoping you get this done and keep us posted...

J
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  #12  
Old 04-04-2016, 02:45 PM
meph137 meph137 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ///Mister J View Post
Hi,

i really like to do this retrofit as well. I've got myself a couple of mirrors and the switch unit. I'm hoping you get this done and keep us posted...

J
Ah yes I'm still on it! Taking my precious time though, I go a bit over the top and research things I perhaps don't need to

I can't find any pre-made looms, so I've going to alter my own. I was going to use the ones I bought from everywill but I figured that, for the driver side at least, I only need to alter two wires (I think!), and as I have ambient lighting (and everywills looms don't) it seems to make more sense to change just two wires, as opposed to having to wire at least 6 wires for the various ambient lighting (interior, puddle, entry).

Anyway, I made the following driver loom diagram - this is the standard loom as you probably have (note, it has no ambient lighting or comfort access or anything like that):



And this is the loom you need for power folding mirrors, along with change notes on it:



I'll be doing the passenger side soon, and will then look in to the extra FEM wiring everywill mentioned, I'm currently just waiting on some MQS pins, some .75mm2 wiring, and an open barrel crimp tool so I can make the two extra wiring runs in the driver loom.

I'll share everything when I know it all, or as and when anyone asks

Oh if you need another mirror for any reason, for some reason I bought three

EDIT - sorry the second image resolution is crappy. I'll upload PDFs soon

Last edited by meph137; 04-04-2016 at 02:48 PM.
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  #13  
Old 04-05-2016, 12:19 PM
///Mister J ///Mister J is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meph137 View Post
Ah yes I'm still on it! Taking my precious time though, I go a bit over the top and research things I perhaps don't need to
Nothing wrong with thoroughness!

I juist picked up my F31 last saturday but bought the mirrors two weeks ago. So I understand how someone would end up with three mirrors

J
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Old 04-05-2016, 02:56 PM
karkoura karkoura is offline
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any updates

i am looking forward to do such retrofit, heard before from one bmw electrician that such retrofit might not need any extra wiring? specially for driver side it;s p&p

please try to have photo clip guide

Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by ///Mister J View Post
Nothing wrong with thoroughness!

I juist picked up my F31 last saturday but bought the mirrors two weeks ago. So I understand how someone would end up with three mirrors

J
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Old 04-05-2016, 04:05 PM
everywill everywill is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meph137 View Post
Ah yes I'm still on it! Taking my precious time though, I go a bit over the top and research things I perhaps don't need to

I can't find any pre-made looms, so I've going to alter my own. I was going to use the ones I bought from everywill but I figured that, for the driver side at least, I only need to alter two wires (I think!), and as I have ambient lighting (and everywills looms don't) it seems to make more sense to change just two wires, as opposed to having to wire at least 6 wires for the various ambient lighting (interior, puddle, entry).

Anyway, I made the following driver loom diagram - this is the standard loom as you probably have (note, it has no ambient lighting or comfort access or anything like that):
Great job!

Considering you won't use the basic loom I've sent to you, why not reuse those pins, wires and connectors as you like? Actually, most pins (except those large ones) sold by main dealer come with a section of wire pre cimped on the end. So you are very likely still have to either solder (recommend) or tap rather than crimp.

Based on my experiences, I only used my crimp tool few times thanks to BMW's extra piggy tail. In contrast, quite a large chunk of Multicore Silver solder had been consumed after those retrofit projects - electric memory seats, folding mirror, NBT, DAB, baseplate, additional power sockets etc....

Good luck!

BTW. The additional power pin of passenger side mirror (connect to the front fuse box - fuse 22) is shared with driver side power pin (pin 14). Rather than split tap this power cable in fuse box, I choose to feed the power wire to the driver side and tap into the existing wire near the door frame socket. This is because, I think, it is safer to put this joint inside the cabin (avoid potential water damage, moisture corrosion etc).

Last edited by everywill; 04-05-2016 at 04:30 PM.
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Old 04-06-2016, 04:54 AM
meph137 meph137 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by everywill View Post
Great job!

Considering you won't use the basic loom I've sent to you, why not reuse those pins, wires and connectors as you like? Actually, most pins (except those large ones) sold by main dealer come with a section of wire pre cimped on the end. So you are very likely still have to either solder (recommend) or tap rather than crimp.
I did consider this actually, but I'd prefer to keep your looms as a backup, just in case. Also, I kindof enjoy having the crimp tool and doing the job as BMW would, I'm a bit anal! I know what you mean about the pins normally coming with tails, but after much digging I found this page on realoem, and discovered (I hope, stil waiting to pick the pins up) that I need 61131393724. I looked on the internet to find the only source was america, 50 pins were cheap ($21.50) but with something silly like $60 shipping I was a bit disheartened, so I gave the dealer a ring (for some reason I assumed they would be silly prices or simply not have a clue, so I didn't try them first) to pleasantly discover that the pins were only 31p each so I ordered 25 (I might go wrong, lots!)

Quote:
Originally Posted by everywill View Post

Based on my experiences, I only used my crimp tool few times thanks to BMW's extra piggy tail. In contrast, quite a large chunk of Multicore Silver solder had been consumed after those retrofit projects - electric memory seats, folding mirror, NBT, DAB, baseplate, additional power sockets etc....
Yeh, I can imagine. Out of interest, what crimp tool do you use? I went for this one on eBay, though I then annoyingly saw it on Aliexpress for about 1/3 of the price! Grr..

Also, how hard and expensive were electric memory seats to fit? I have excluded them from my list of modifications to do as I assumed they were too hard.

Quote:
Originally Posted by everywill View Post

Good luck!

BTW. The additional power pin of passenger side mirror (connect to the front fuse box - fuse 22) is shared with driver side power pin (pin 14). Rather than split tap this power cable in fuse box, I choose to feed the power wire to the driver side and tap into the existing wire near the door frame socket. This is because, I think, it is safer to put this joint inside the cabin (avoid potential water damage, moisture corrosion etc).
This is a good idea, I may do the same. I'm brand new to all this, for wire tapping I imagine you use these right? And then some form of crimp tool?
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  #17  
Old 04-06-2016, 04:55 AM
meph137 meph137 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by karkoura View Post
any updates

i am looking forward to do such retrofit, heard before from one bmw electrician that such retrofit might not need any extra wiring? specially for driver side it;s p&p

please try to have photo clip guide

Thanks
It's p&p on drivers side yes, though good luck finding the looms, I found them hard to source - perhaps best to go to a dealer to get them if you don't fancy modifying your existing looms.
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Old 04-06-2016, 05:25 AM
everywill everywill is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meph137 View Post
I did consider this actually, but I'd prefer to keep your looms as a backup, just in case. Also, I kindof enjoy having the crimp tool and doing the job as BMW would, I'm a bit anal! I know what you mean about the pins normally coming with tails, but after much digging I found this page on realoem, and discovered (I hope, stil waiting to pick the pins up) that I need 61131393724. I looked on the internet to find the only source was america, 50 pins were cheap ($21.50) but with something silly like $60 shipping I was a bit disheartened, so I gave the dealer a ring (for some reason I assumed they would be silly prices or simply not have a clue, so I didn't try them first) to pleasantly discover that the pins were only 31p each so I ordered 25 (I might go wrong, lots!)



Yeh, I can imagine. Out of interest, what crimp tool do you use? I went for this one on eBay, though I then annoyingly saw it on Aliexpress for about 1/3 of the price! Grr..

Also, how hard and expensive were electric memory seats to fit? I have excluded them from my list of modifications to do as I assumed they were too hard.



This is a good idea, I may do the same. I'm brand new to all this, for wire tapping I imagine you use these right? And then some form of crimp tool?
As a DIY guy, you should always buy pins double the quantity you need . Since the most annoying thing is when you decide to start a new project found that you have to wait 1 week for these small things posted from Germany. Never figured out why there always not enough pins in my tool box.

For the memory seat, I posted a brief guide on this section. You can have a look. Not very difficult, just some wiring job. But I don't think this is a necessary retrofit. The only reason I did this is because, at that time, the only set of sport leather seats with split folding rear bench I could find is electric version. Plus 700 is a pretty good price for how many extra functions you got. So have to swallow the pain .

In terms of "tapping", normally, I split (not cut) the rubber insulation using those automatic striper and solder the additional wire on it. What can I say, I just love soldering. The problem of the plastic tap you mentioned is that then tend to make the joint unstable for viberation, especially when used on thin wires. The metal teeth just cant cut through the insulation well. Had bad experience with these stuff when hard wiring dashcam and its backup battery (for parking mode).

For crimping tool, I bought this from amazon.

Velleman VTECT2 Crimping Tool for Non-Insulated Terminals https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00SNELQ..._4-pbxbM4TAEDY

Not fancy one but did the job decently. Bought this rather than other similar ones purely due to Amazon's next day delivery.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Last edited by everywill; 04-06-2016 at 08:32 AM.
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Old 04-06-2016, 02:21 PM
karkoura karkoura is offline
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can you send again the picture with loom diagram for both sides

thanks
\]
Quote:
Originally Posted by meph137 View Post
Ah yes I'm still on it! Taking my precious time though, I go a bit over the top and research things I perhaps don't need to

I can't find any pre-made looms, so I've going to alter my own. I was going to use the ones I bought from everywill but I figured that, for the driver side at least, I only need to alter two wires (I think!), and as I have ambient lighting (and everywills looms don't) it seems to make more sense to change just two wires, as opposed to having to wire at least 6 wires for the various ambient lighting (interior, puddle, entry).

Anyway, I made the following driver loom diagram - this is the standard loom as you probably have (note, it has no ambient lighting or comfort access or anything like that):



And this is the loom you need for power folding mirrors, along with change notes on it:



I'll be doing the passenger side soon, and will then look in to the extra FEM wiring everywill mentioned, I'm currently just waiting on some MQS pins, some .75mm2 wiring, and an open barrel crimp tool so I can make the two extra wiring runs in the driver loom.

I'll share everything when I know it all, or as and when anyone asks

Oh if you need another mirror for any reason, for some reason I bought three

EDIT - sorry the second image resolution is crappy. I'll upload PDFs soon
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Old 04-06-2016, 02:36 PM
karkoura karkoura is offline
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my friend how P&P for driver side and there is a different loom diagram for driver side

can you please explain the diagram component like X28 1 B

Quote:
Originally Posted by karkoura View Post
can you send again the picture with loom diagram for both sides

thanks
\]
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Old 04-07-2016, 11:08 AM
meph137 meph137 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by karkoura View Post
can you send again the picture with loom diagram for both sides

thanks
\]
I've only done the diagram for the driver side so far, just look earlier in the thread to see it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by karkoura View Post
my friend how P&P for driver side and there is a different loom diagram for driver side

can you please explain the diagram component like X28 1 B
It depends what you mean by P&P - if you have the right loom it's P&P, but if not, then you have to modify the loom, so it's not

The X28*1B is the plug that comes from the door and plugs in to the car.
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Old 04-07-2016, 11:36 AM
meph137 meph137 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by everywill View Post
BTW. The additional power pin of passenger side mirror (connect to the front fuse box - fuse 22) is shared with driver side power pin (pin 14). Rather than split tap this power cable in fuse box, I choose to feed the power wire to the driver side and tap into the existing wire near the door frame socket. This is because, I think, it is safer to put this joint inside the cabin (avoid potential water damage, moisture corrosion etc).
Just checked on ISTA and noticed that the wire leading to pin 14 on the driver side is only .5mm2, which is the same guage as the wire on the loom - do you reckon that could be an issue? I'm thinking if the amp draw is enough to warrant a .5 in the loom, and you connect two looms to the .5 going to the fuse box it might burn out.
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  #23  
Old 04-07-2016, 11:50 AM
everywill everywill is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meph137 View Post
Just checked on ISTA and noticed that the wire leading to pin 14 on the driver side is only .5mm2, which is the same guage as the wire on the loom - do you reckon that could be an issue? I'm thinking if the amp draw is enough to warrant a .5 in the loom, and you connect two looms to the .5 going to the fuse box it might burn out.
I also occasionally have similar concerns. Although it seems reasonable to assume BMW uses wires thicker than needed, I always use even higher gauge wires whenever add a new circuit. For 0.5 mm^2 shown on the diagram, I will use high quality 1 mm^2 instead just be safe.

In this case, I should admit I was too lazy to cut and reinstall a thicker wire in fuse box. Moreover, in ISTA, there are no wire gauge differences of folding and non folding version. I coded immediate fold when press lock button. No issue so far (5 months).

Last edited by everywill; 04-07-2016 at 12:15 PM.
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Old 04-07-2016, 12:33 PM
meph137 meph137 is offline
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So, I figured on the passenger loom I can re-use some existing wires by swapping the pin assignments around (they are the correct gauge, so that's good), I do need to add one wire though, which is for the ground - it needs a .5mm2 (I think, off the top of my head), so I'm going to need to add a wire to the ground splice. I notice that the BMW splice is in some form of plastic tube with what looks like glue injected in, presumably to waterproof the splice. Not sure if they solder the wires in the tube, I can't tell.

Anyway, question - there seems to be a big chunky first splice, which splits off in to further smaller splices. I'm probably best to get my ground from the big splice (or before it), but I'm not sure whether I should remove the exiting splice plastic barrel, add my wire in, and re-do whatever that barrel thing is, or whether to simply splice before the plastic barrel (I'll probably opt for this), but still in which I need to make sure I make a waterproof splice.

So, from an automotive engineering virgin - how the hell do I do that? I have no idea what the plastic barrel thing that BMW uses is called, picture below, any help appreciated! (looking at you, everywill )
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Old 04-07-2016, 01:29 PM
everywill everywill is offline
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Location: UK
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
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Mein Auto: F30
My day job is social science researcher. So probably not the best source for this type of enquiry.

However, if I were you, I'll splice the thickest section and solder ground wire there. To make the joint water and weather proof, you can apply some Plastidip liquid electric tape; then hot shrink tube; then 3M scotch electric tape. Make sure to use resin core solder.
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