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E36 /7 Z3 (1996-2002)
E36/7 Z3 roadster and coupe talk with our gurus here.

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  #1  
Old 11-04-2012, 05:52 PM
senikc senikc is offline
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Location: Milledgeville, Ga
 
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Mein Auto: 1994 Mercedes E320
HVAC controls

Does anyone know, what is the cause of the dash level vents not working? I have taken the radio out and can see the control unit working the lever on the duct work on the drivers side. also when I adjust the heat with the fan on high I can hear a damper door flop to full heat, then I have heat in the floor.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions
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  #2  
Old 11-05-2012, 06:52 PM
Blacklane Blacklane is online now
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Location: Springfield, Ohio, USA
 
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Mein Auto: 1998 Z3 Roadster
It sounds like a broken bowden cable. Look over this thread: http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=318432

If that doesn't explain it, near the top of the page on the right is a button labeled "Search This Forum." Click that and enter something like "Heater Control" and you will find dozens of threads on this topic.
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  #3  
Old 11-05-2012, 07:24 PM
senikc senikc is offline
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Location: Milledgeville, Ga
 
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Mein Auto: 1994 Mercedes E320
HVAC controls

Can see the cable moving it is attached to the "green" lever which is operating the cable which in turn operates the green lever attached to the duct work over the drivers foot well.
I am also having problems with the temperature control, when I move it to the full heat position with the fan on high I can hear the door flop to the full heat side and get lots of hot air.
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  #4  
Old 11-06-2012, 06:50 AM
ZEEBOY ZEEBOY is offline
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Mein Auto: 2001 Z3 Coupe and 2003 Z4
senikc, elementary I know, but did you check to see if the rotation dial (with the white horizontal mark) on on each vent was in the upward position and not closed off?
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  #5  
Old 11-06-2012, 12:10 PM
senikc senikc is offline
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Location: Milledgeville, Ga
 
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Mein Auto: 1994 Mercedes E320
actually the center vent assembly was removed to open the damper and I tried running my scope/camera down in the duct work toward the damper acuator, also the right and left outside dash level vents are also open wide, still no air is diverted to that level, the air continues to blow from the heater vents in the floor and the defroster vents.

thanks
for your input
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  #6  
Old 11-07-2012, 01:45 AM
rdsledge rdsledge is offline
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Location: Louisville,Ky.
 
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Mein Auto: 1997 Z3
The red,green and blue cable followers are all atacted.the red rides in the grooved cam on the back of the deverted Knob (floor,defrost, dash,ect)the blue to the inside and the green to the blue and the temp. Knob.On mine it is binding some where and cousing the follower on the red lever to pop out grooved cam.I think that the blue cable may be jambed cousing the binding.It got cold there and I was afrade of cold plastic braking when I tried to truble shoot. Good luck R.D.
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  #7  
Old 11-07-2012, 11:52 AM
alcofribas alcofribas is offline
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Location: Asheville, North Carolina
 
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Mein Auto: 2001 Z3 2.5i
Angry HVAC issues (temp selector binds)

The temperature selector dial in my 2001 Z3 Roadster also binds. It stops at the vertical point, but if I nudge it a few times it goes over the "hump" and continues to the maximum position. Once it's there, it will freely move from full minimum to full max with no binding. Is there a way to squirt some lubricant into the cable? If necessary, is the cable replaceable without major take-apart issues? I suspect, from previous experience with this kind of control, that there's a kink in the inner cable.
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  #8  
Old 11-07-2012, 01:28 PM
dkindig dkindig is offline
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Mein Auto: '01 Z3 3.0i Roadster
Quote:
Originally Posted by alcofribas View Post
The temperature selector dial in my 2001 Z3 Roadster also binds. It stops at the vertical point, but if I nudge it a few times it goes over the "hump" and continues to the maximum position. Once it's there, it will freely move from full minimum to full max with no binding. Is there a way to squirt some lubricant into the cable? If necessary, is the cable replaceable without major take-apart issues? I suspect, from previous experience with this kind of control, that there's a kink in the inner cable.
Not a bind, alcofribas. What you're experiencing is the heat blend door sticking to the face of the heater box. As these cars age, the foam seal on the flap deteriorates and the adhesive used to fix it in place starts sticking.

The only way I know of short of disassembling and replacing the foam is to adjust the cable so that the blend door doesn't close all the way, therefore preventing the sticking problem. However, it results in a slight amount of heat leaking past the door when it should be closed. Eventually the post will break off the heater control arm where it rides in the track on the knob because of the tension, can be replaced with a metal bellcrank ball for a "fix".

One of these days I will feel adventurous and yank the entire box, replace the foam with felt or something like that.

Last edited by dkindig; 11-07-2012 at 01:29 PM.
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  #9  
Old 11-07-2012, 01:51 PM
dougmcintyre dougmcintyre is offline
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Location: Chapel Hill, NC
 
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Mein Auto: 2000 M Coupe, 1997 318ti
Or you could just not fully close the blend door - don't set the temp control to full cold, stop at about 9 o'clock.
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  #10  
Old 11-09-2012, 03:41 AM
alcofribas alcofribas is offline
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Location: Asheville, North Carolina
 
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Mein Auto: 2001 Z3 2.5i
@Dougmcintyre: exactly my thought. During the summer, temp control to zero, fall, winter, spring, to 9 o'clock. There's sometimes a light hesitation, but not the full grab.

BTW: @dkindig: how does one open the box to replace the foam tape?

My Z3 lacks heated mirrors, so I've gotten a pair of "mirror mitts" to cover them on frosty nights. The middle bottom section of my unheated driver's seat was strangely stiff when I bought the car last June (the passenger seat sections are quite flexible). Now it's cracking in several places, but it has nothing to do with the outside temperature. I've ordered a sheepskin panel (attaches at the seat bottom) to cover the offending section and provide more comfort on freezing mornings.
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  #11  
Old 11-09-2012, 05:32 AM
dkindig dkindig is offline
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Location: Murphy, NC
 
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Mein Auto: '01 Z3 3.0i Roadster
Quote:
Originally Posted by alcofribas View Post
BTW: @dkindig: how does one open the box to replace the foam tape?
I suspect the only way is to pull the entire dash to gain decent working access to the blend doors. That's why I termed it as one day when I was feeling adventurous...

Sounds like the seat issue may be related to something the PO used to clean that area perhaps? Generally not normal on these cars for the leather to crack too much unless it has been mistreated.
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  #12  
Old 11-09-2012, 06:14 AM
dougmcintyre dougmcintyre is offline
formerly updmst
Location: Chapel Hill, NC
 
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Mein Auto: 2000 M Coupe, 1997 318ti
Quote:
Originally Posted by alcofribas View Post
@Dougmcintyre: exactly my thought. During the summer, temp control to zero, fall, winter, spring, to 9 o'clock. There's sometimes a light hesitation, but not the full grab.
Before I adjusted the bowden cable, I used a variation of your procedure. In the summer, the temp control was only on full cold while the car was running. As part of turning the car off, the temp control is set back to 9 o'clock.
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  #13  
Old 11-19-2012, 09:12 PM
senikc senikc is offline
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Location: Milledgeville, Ga
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
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Mein Auto: 1994 Mercedes E320
HVAC controls problem solved

After removing the glove box, and braces, I found the bowdon cable for the temp had come loose from the anchor clip letting the cable outer jacket move, after re clipping the cable it now works as it should.
the diverter door between floor and dash level vents would only move in one direction, after further investigation I found the pin on the back of the arm on the selector control was not in the groove as it should have been, after placing it back in the groove it now works as it should.

Thanks for all the input and information.

Charles
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  #14  
Old 11-21-2012, 02:02 AM
rdsledge rdsledge is offline
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Location: Louisville,Ky.
 
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Mein Auto: 1997 Z3
Were are the cable clips located? That is the problem I am having the cables move but the levers don't. Thanks RD
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  #15  
Old 11-21-2012, 03:55 AM
senikc senikc is offline
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Location: Milledgeville, Ga
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 72
Mein Auto: 1994 Mercedes E320
HVAC controls

Remove the glove box, remove the verticle bracket which braces from the dash down to the transmission hump, operate the temperature knob find the cable, the clip on mine was white nylon and snapped in a square hole in the brace which the end of the cable ran by.
use this link which I did, it was contributed by Blacklane on 11/5

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=318432

Good luck with your repair, hope this helps.
Charles
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