2010 335D or 2011 335D?

I have choice of buying either a 2010 or a 2011 335D with almost the same mileage (25K). The 2010 is $4k cheaper but its not CPO. For $33.9K its priced comparable to a 335i with the same options (Nav, Premium, Cold). I was wondering if there are any significant differences between the model years. I have searched but cannot find anything. I test drove both the 335i and 335D and I love the diesel engine. I may be partial to diesel since I already own a Jetta TDI. The 2011 has 4 more months of coverage than the 2010 but I would most likely go over 50K miles before then anyway. Don't know if the CPO is worth the extra money. I appreciate the feedback.

I don't think there is much difference. I'd look closely at condition, maintenance history, and ownership history. Options and color may be deciding factors too. Be sure that all the recalls have been done.

Sent from my SCH-I510 using Bimmer App

For a bit of the 2010 MY the base stereo was junk in comparisons to the base stereo found in 2009 and 2011. That is the only thing I can remember off hand that might better to someone. Having used a 2010 quite a lot and obviously a 2009 even more, I'd not be happy with the base stereo in a 2010 and either got 09 or 11, assuming not getting a car with the upgraded stereo option. CPO is only worth the extra money if you end up having to use the extra warranty coverage for something costly.

if it has Harmon Kardon take it, i have it and it sounds sweet!!

I dont see CPO to be very useful when you have main warranty left. In either case you should have 1.5-2yrs of main warranty left. If you feel you want to be safe you can sign up for extended warranty in this time. Except for Stereo and few buttons here and there I cant remember of any changes.

Not sure if you searched for but this thread has some more info
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...ight=2010+335d

Originally Posted by bimmerdiesel

I dont see CPO to be very useful when you have main warranty left. In either case you should have 1.5-2yrs of main warranty left. If you feel you want to be safe you can sign up for extended warranty in this time. Except for Stereo and few buttons here and there I cant remember of any changes.

This is true and also means not "financing" the warranty extension cost. By that I mean if you pay more for the CPO car it more or less is because of that added warranty. Instead you could get a non CPO car for lesser money and once its warranty is close to being up then buy an extension if you feel you want one.

Car Fax shows one owner and all scheduled maintenance. Original Tires are at 50% which surprises me. I did not think you could get 25k on oem tires. I am sure I will have to put new tires on it soon. The '11 has 4 new tires required to be a cpo car. The '11 is local, test drove it. '10 is 6 hours away. Buying sight unseen makes me nervous.

I did not see you mention if they have the sports package and if they do not then I could easily see tires lasting that long. Actually someone on here with the sports package got that many miles if not more. All depends on how heavy your foot is of course. For me 6 hours away is close enough that I'd drive to look at a car I was serious about buying.

Originally Posted by wardtew

Car Fax shows one owner and all scheduled maintenance. Original Tires are at 50% which surprises me. I did not think you could get 25k on oem tires. I am sure I will have to put new tires on it soon. The '11 has 4 new tires required to be a cpo car. The '11 is local, test drove it. '10 is 6 hours away. Buying sight unseen makes me nervous.

If it has sports pack 25k miles is just about miles you can get on rears. I have abt 25k miles on my summers and my rears are gone and fronts still have 40-50% life left on them.

Bimmerdiesel,

Its funny you mention that because I called and the dealer confessed 50% are the fronts but the backs are 80%. I always replace all four tires at once so I will definately be out of pocket for tires on the '10. Using the KBB and NADA used pricing guides the '11 is a better value. If I factor the price of new tires, the '10 is right at the retail value and the '11 CPO Value with brand new tires is $1,000 under the retail value. I am going to go back and negotiate a better price on the '11. If I can narrow the gap so more I will go with the '11. Plus I get the better sound system.

Originally Posted by wardtew

Bimmerdiesel,

Its funny you mention that because I called and the dealer confessed 50% are the fronts but the backs are 80%. I always replace all four tires at once so I will definately be out of pocket for tires on the '10. Using the KBB and NADA used pricing guides the '11 is a better value. If I factor the price of new tires, the '10 is right at the retail value and the '11 CPO Value with brand new tires is $1,000 under the retail value. I am going to go back and negotiate a better price on the '11. If I can narrow the gap so more I will go with the '11. Plus I get the better sound system.

Does it have sports package. It seems like previous owner replaced rears before turning it in. If so I think you can run existing tires for another 15-20k miles. Based on my experience rears will run out faster and by the time your fronts come down to 20%, rears will also be around 20%.
In any case I suggest you going for 2011 coz its newer model. E90 MY2010 had a short life: Sept 2010- March 2011.
Another small difference if you have iDrive. Late 2011 model had newer version of iDrive which supports office mail and enhanced bluetooth for streaming music and other cool things.

My non sports package car needed new tires shortly before 30k. Front and back but I know fronts because I rotate the tired. I should note I replaced three tires and the one front one actually could have been used awhile longer. I opted to do that one front just to avoid another trip there. The other front was fine since was replaced due to a flat.

Originally Posted by Snipe656

I did not see you mention if they have the sports package and if they do not then I could easily see tires lasting that long. Actually someone on here with the sports package got that many miles if not more. All depends on how heavy your foot is of course. For me 6 hours away is close enough that I'd drive to look at a car I was serious about buying.

I would request a VMI from your CA before purchase (excluding the previous owner information). It lists open vehicle data, campaign information, option information, contract/service program information, eligible contract/service program information, and the repair history.

Originally Posted by L0rd NIk0n

I would request a VMI from your CA before purchase (excluding the previous owner information). It lists open vehicle data, campaign information, option information, contract/service program information, eligible contract/service program information, and the repair history.

I never have shopped a used BMW so find that interesting they will give out repair history. Mercedes will not do it, they claim for privacy reasons, I even have tried to get a mechanic at a dealer to do it for me.

I made my decision and I am going with the MY11. The car was used at BMW dealer mostly for employees to drive to out of town locations for training. All maintenance records are available. The dealer will also put on 4 new tires although the tread would pass for CPO. Dealer is also giving me loyal customer discount of $1,000. I know I am paying more for the MY11 than the MY10 with the same mileage but when I factor in the new tires and CPO its coming up $2K less than KBB and NADA value. The MY10 is showing up as par value. CPO was not a big deal to me but at least I will not worry up to 100K miles if anything major happens like a turbo failing. The MY11 will also be up to date with all recalls including the latest one for the SES issue. Finally there seems to be some model tweaks between 10 and 11. I know for sure the sound system is better. I also have read about improvements with I - Drive. I am looking forward to driving it. I can't understand why BMW is not continuing with this model. Its seems to have it all, performance, handling and great great gas, i mean oil mileage.

Good choice. I would have picked the 2011. The new tires, the CPO, the closer dealer, the discount and the good service records, in addition to better future resale value all make up for the difference in price.

You can still buy mine. Click my sig below.