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E46 (1999 - 2006)
The fourth generation 3 Series (E46 chassis) was introduced in 1999 and set the standard for engineering and performance during it's years of production including being named to Car & Driver's 10 best list every one of those years! ! -- View the E46 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 11-19-2012, 06:12 AM
Greekgod1 Greekgod1 is offline
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Location: CA
 
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Mein Auto: BMW 325I 2001
Please help

About 3 weeks ago i bought a BMW 325i 2001. I have been having major problems on it, I replaced radiator, resviore, the fan clutch, The fan, water pump, themorstat. I got it back yesterday, i drive it doing a test drive and it was leaking anti freeze from the top everywhere, and it always gets in the hot. And not the back fan, but the very front fan doesn't come on i think? Should it come on? What should i do? i'VE done all i know to do. And idk what is wrong with it. i cant go 30 mins without it over heating. thanks for everyones help

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  #2  
Old 11-19-2012, 07:16 AM
kindawg kindawg is offline
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Mein Auto: 2002
Did you bleed the system? it needs to be bled by the radiator cap. The screw uses a philips screwdriver. I had the same problems, I forgot the bleed like a dummy
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Old 11-19-2012, 07:39 AM
QAfred QAfred is offline
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+1, Leaking everywhere? you need to take it back to whomever did the work!

If you want to bleed it yourself, remove bleed screw on top rad hose, turn key on, engine off and turn the heater on high so that you also bleed out the heater hoses and heater core and do not trap a bunch of air causing low coolant.

also, do not fill your radiator expansion tank to the top, like all other cars. Our cars need airspace since it is a closed system there must be air in the expansion tank. I like to fill my rad so that red float is level with top of radiator. That way you are sure it is not overfilled. If you overfill our cars you will blow something due to heated fluid expanding has to go somewhere.

If you poured in too much fluid during bleed, simply suck out excess fluid from your expansion tank until it is below max. I use an old turkey baster to suck the fluid out, just be careful not to break the red fill indicator when doing this.
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Old 11-19-2012, 05:50 PM
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jvr826 jvr826 is online now
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Maybe a typo, but you need to run the engine to circulate coolant in order to bleed it properly.
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Old 11-19-2012, 06:07 PM
QAfred QAfred is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jvr826 View Post
Maybe a typo, but you need to run the engine to circulate coolant in order to bleed it properly.
I don't run it until after I bleed it per the above, then, I agree, you can start the engine with the radiator cap off, let thermostat open etc. and see if/how far fluid goes down. I typically put the cap back on, leave heater on high, drive it 5 or 6 miles until thermostat opens, and then park it back in the driveway and check fluid level after slight cooling period.

However, I can tell you, in my experience, if you bleed it per the above, and fill the expansion tank to almost to the top, run it, it will drop down to normal level and works out almost perfectly to be exactly the amount of coolant needed.

One may need to suck a little out actually.
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Old 11-19-2012, 08:47 PM
lgr122 lgr122 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QAfred View Post
I don't run it until after I bleed it per the above,
How do you bleed without running the engine?

Did i do it hard way when just i was slowly driving back alleys and every time when temp reach top i stopped right away and filled coolant/ let air steaming out.

After doing that 3-4 times temperature started staying in the middle and it only complained of low coolant few more times.

I still have coolant in trunk to be added if necessary, but looks like it settled now.

Last edited by lgr122; 11-19-2012 at 08:48 PM.
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Old 11-19-2012, 09:20 PM
QAfred QAfred is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lgr122 View Post
How do you bleed without running the engine?

Did i do it hard way when just i was slowly driving back alleys and every time when temp reach top i stopped right away and filled coolant/ let air steaming out.

After doing that 3-4 times temperature started staying in the middle and it only complained of low coolant few more times.

I still have coolant in trunk to be added if necessary, but looks like it settled now.
yes, you did it the hard way.
Turn key on, engine of, heater set to max-91 degrees- then take off vent screw from upper rad hose, remove rad cap, fill expansion tank until fluid leaks from vent on upper rad hose- your expansion tank will now appear to be overfilled- but not really since there is some air still trapped, put rad cap on, drive car for five or six miles, park it and take the cap off after it cools a bit. I doubt you will need to add or do anything from this point, but definitely check next morning again when engine is cool and top off, if required.
I never had any trouble with this method on 323, 325 and 330's.

Last edited by QAfred; 11-19-2012 at 09:21 PM.
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