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E34 (1989 - 1995)

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  #1  
Old 11-16-2012, 01:51 PM
madmax351 madmax351 is offline
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Hello and help

Hey guys,
my first post, have an E34 535i, M 5 suspension, 18" M5 wheels, nice car....it has a few minor issues to fix, usual things, suspension need some help, exhaust stud broken on one header and now a dodgy passanger (Left side in Australia) door lock.
'
My questions are these.

The door lock button actually locks if opened manually the closed with the key, it does not quite go all the way down, then a second turn of the key to lock the doors seats the button a little lower. Now the inner door handle will not opne the door at all, when unlocked, but you can open it from the outside after manually pulling up the button. The inner handle still does not open it.

is it the acuator? or is it another problem?

Re the exhaust stud, I am tempted to drill the old broken stud out and replace it with a high tensile steel bolt (with a spring on the lower end of course).....anyone see any issues doing it that way?

Will post some pictures when I can,

Thanks again for any input.

Cheers
Max
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  #2  
Old 11-16-2012, 04:03 PM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Well i can only speak for the inside door handle. There is a long metal wire with a hook that leads from the door actuator to the handle. The hook connects into a loop on the handle. Either that loop has broken or the hook came off somehow. You'll need to open up your door card to get to this. Please look at some diys with pictures about this (google for this), your door card's fastening tabs etc are old and can be easily broken if you don't do it intelligently.
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  #3  
Old 11-16-2012, 06:13 PM
snowsled7 snowsled7 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madmax351 View Post
Re the exhaust stud, I am tempted to drill the old broken stud out and replace it with a high tensile steel bolt (with a spring on the lower end of course).....anyone see any issues doing it that way?

Cheers
Max
Sometimes there is enough stud left to try some other removal methods, rather than drilling right away.

Weld a nut on the end and turn it out.

Heat and turn out with vise grip.

I have had them turn out easily with just a pliers.

You never know until you go after it. The pitfalls of drilling are many. It will take a very steady hand to hand drill the stud out of the aluminum head without potentially major damage to the head.

If / when you do get the old stud out, I would replace it with a new stud, they are no more expensive than a bolt and are meant for the job. I did it once and was successful over a long time period. The stud is preferable though. You have to make sure it doesn't bottom out, and then you are not using all of the threads in the head like the stud would.

Good Luck
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  #4  
Old 11-16-2012, 11:47 PM
madmax351 madmax351 is offline
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Thanks

Hey Guys,

Thanks for replying.

Roberto, thanks, sorted it out, the hanger wire that clips to the interior door handle had come away. I also confirm that the door lock itself locks with the central locking and key, but does not unlock, there is no movement in the lock motor when you open the driver side door, yet when you lock it by pushing the door button down you can feel the motor pull the passangers side door button down.

AS for the exhaust, sorry but it is the stud between the header and the exhaust pipe, not onto the engine head itself, so one of the two studs that hold the exhaust system onto the header.

So maybe the bolt will work?

Thanks again for replying guys.

Enjoy your weekend.

Cheers
Max
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  #5  
Old 11-17-2012, 05:12 AM
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BMWFatherFigure BMWFatherFigure is offline
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Hi where are you. I'm in Perth. Once the header is off go for stud replacement but use fresh copper flashed (original) nuts and Loctite never seize.
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  #6  
Old 11-17-2012, 05:14 AM
snowsled7 snowsled7 is offline
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Yes, you could drill it and bolt it in that case but, it still isn't the correct repair. Getting the stud out with the original threads in the manifold would be best. Or drilling and tapping, replacing the stud is the best repair. The regular nut and bolt should work fine, it's just that correct repair isn't much more work or expense.
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  #7  
Old 11-17-2012, 05:50 AM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madmax351 View Post
Hey Guys,

AS for the exhaust, sorry but it is the stud between the header and the exhaust pipe, not onto the engine head itself, so one of the two studs that hold the exhaust system onto the header.

So maybe the bolt will work?

Thanks again for replying guys.

Enjoy your weekend.

Cheers
Max
Nope, they use a weird looking almost elliptical copper nuts, for some reason. Its way too weird not to be there for a relevant purpose, so I think you should stick with it.


rgds,
Roberto
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  #8  
Old 11-17-2012, 12:49 PM
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Radian Radian is offline
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In what fashion is the stud broken? Anything left to grab onto? Or did it break down inside?

The manifold to exhaust pipe studs are stainless steel and the manifold sections themselves are cast iron.

The two are assembled using an interference fit, meaning no amount of penetrating oil will help out.

Drilling won't work because the stainless will just work harden into carbide and dull the bit.

The correct fix is to buy a set of new manifold gaskets (the ones that fit between the manifold and the head) and a new stud, remove the section of manifold that requires repair from the engine.

Using an acetylene or mapp gas torch, heat the ear of the manifold that the stud is threaded into until it is cherry-hot. Only when it is glowing red to orange hot will you be able to turn the remainder of the stud with minimum effort.

You have to remove the manifold because the amount of heat required to get the joint loose will melt anything plastic on that side of the engine bay if you attempt this while it's installed.

The two reasons the studs break is because :
1. OE copper plated nuts weren't used
2. Whatever nuts were used were grossly over-torqued when installed
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  #9  
Old 11-17-2012, 07:14 PM
madmax351 madmax351 is offline
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Thanks guys,

Will have to take the manifold off and try to get the sud out, it is a common problem apparently. If I had enough money would put a set of headers on it.

The other option is another exhaust manifold, I am in Sydney, quoted $100 for one, sound ok?

Thanks guys.

Max
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  #10  
Old 11-18-2012, 05:27 AM
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BMWFatherFigure BMWFatherFigure is offline
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That is what I would pay here in Perth
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Good - Fast - Cheap: Pick any two.
Current:
E23 735i; E32 735iL (X 2 - 1 Alpine White and 1 Glacier Blue); E34 535i; E38 735iL; R50 Cooper; R55 Cooper Clubman.
Previous:
E21 318i; E30 318i; E32 735iL; E34 535i; E38 730iL; E53 4.4i
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  #11  
Old 11-18-2012, 08:22 AM
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Radian Radian is offline
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$100 would also fetch all new studs (both the two stainless ones and all the ones that thread into the head), the correct nuts, gaskets, and still have change to send the original off to the shop for blasting or tumble cleaning. ...maybe even enough for new springs too.

That's what I did with mine. The manifold sections cleaned up really well. There's plenty of room to access and remove them...barring any other stubborn fasteners along the way.
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  #12  
Old 11-18-2012, 09:18 PM
madmax351 madmax351 is offline
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Location: sydney
 
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thanks

Hey guys,
Thanks, will just buy another one and fit it. I guess it is easier, just a pain to get the old one off!

On another note, never had a BMW before, I have had this car about 18 months and love it, it goes very well, is good on fuel on a trip (I run 98 octane) and is built like a tank.

all in all a great car. I would like to convert it to manual one day (six speed, not five), and lower the diff ratio, it would be interesting to see just how quick it would be.

Will try to upload a picture to the forum as well. Tell me what you all think of her!

Cheers
Max
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  #13  
Old 11-18-2012, 09:22 PM
madmax351 madmax351 is offline
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Mein Auto: E34 5 series
picture of the old girl

Here is a pic taken on our farm.

Not a bad old thing!
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