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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 03-28-2011, 02:41 PM
elbolson elbolson is offline
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OFH gasket replace - what else to do?

Yesterday I posted a tread regarding my unsucessful 1st attempt to repalce my OFH seal.
The car is a 2002 530i with 94k. I got some great comments and will follow up after my next attempt. My question is - what else should I replace as long as I'm going in there? I already (on my first go-round) replaced:

1. both drive belts
2. upper and lower radiator hoses
3. PS reservoir and 2 hoses connected to it
4. alternator belt pulley and tensioner

I could easily replace the AC tensioner if that seems like a good idea. What about the CCV? I live in a mild climate and not aware of any problems. Is this likely to be a problem in the future? Anything else?

Thanks for any advice?
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  #2  
Old 03-28-2011, 05:43 PM
granlund granlund is offline
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I have the oil filter housing gasket repair scheduled for the next warm weekend (probably not the coming one). I'm contemplating the CCV as well. At least remove all the hoses and flush them out. It has to be easier reaching the CCV when the oil filter housing is removed.

I saw your thread from yesterday. What do you think about 'tacking' the gasket to the housing with a dab or two of black RTV to avoid the possibility of it getting misaligned when the housing is mounted back on the block?
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  #3  
Old 03-28-2011, 06:21 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Location: San Jose, California
 
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Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
Quote:
Originally Posted by elbolson View Post
Yesterday I posted a tread regarding my unsucessful 1st attempt to repalce my OFH seal.
Dunno but maybe these will help:
- CCV FAILS: crankcase ventilation valve diaphragm tears, freezes (1), &/or clogs (1), necessitating CCV replacement (M54,M54,M54, M54 observations) (M52,M52) (M52TU) (M62,M62) ('99 528i) ('98 528i); raising pressures, often causing the OFH oil filter housing to leak (1) (2) (3) (4); frequently blowing the VCG valve cover gasket (1); and sometimes the head gasket (1) (2); often causing vacuum leaks (1) (2) (3).


Quote:
Originally Posted by elbolson View Post
what else should I replace as long as I'm going in there??
Maybe these suggestions will help:
- BMW service/maintenance schedule (1) & checklists I, II, and III (1) (2) & tips for newbies for what maintenance to initially perform (1) (2) and typical 150K mile maintenance issues (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) & inspections (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) & check/replace all fluids (1)
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Old 03-28-2011, 06:46 PM
elbolson elbolson is offline
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I saw your thread from yesterday. What do you think about 'tacking' the gasket to the housing with a dab or two of black RTV to avoid the possibility of it getting misaligned when the housing is mounted back on the block?[/QUOTE]

I seriously doubt the seal has slipped, as the detents appear to hold it FIRMLY in place. However, this weekend I will have a golden oppotunity to find out.

Also, I just purchased an overpriced seal from BMW and ordered another one from Victor Reinz. I'll weigh and measure the 2 unused seals and report back.

I've read reports about cracked or distorted OFHs. It's hard to imagine why that could happen in isolated cases with the factory installation, but who knows?
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  #5  
Old 03-28-2011, 06:47 PM
elbolson elbolson is offline
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Thank you.
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  #6  
Old 03-29-2011, 04:46 AM
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Fudman Fudman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elbolson View Post
Also, I just purchased an overpriced seal from BMW and ordered another one from Victor Reinz. I'll weigh and measure the 2 unused seals and report back.
That would be great! I have always wondered about the dimensional differences between different gaskets. A good thing to know.

WRT your CCV, I would replace it if your driving habits consist of short distance drives in colder weather. The oil vapors that are collected in the CCV, are supposed to condense and drain back into the oil sump, via the dipstick tube. If the engine does not warm sufficiently, the oil vapors tend to condense as a yellow-white mayo like substance on the walls of the CCV tubes and the CCV. Check your CCV hoses for this mayo. If present, replace everything. If not, leave it be. Some might recommned replacing it as "preventative maintenance" as this is a historically troublesome component but many CCVs last the life of the car. Your choice.
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  #7  
Old 03-29-2011, 08:18 AM
elbolson elbolson is offline
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Thanks, Fudman.
My wife drives the car and does make a lot of short trips. However, the car always seems to get to operating temperature (northern CA is fairly mild). So it's a tough call. The problem is that I need to do the work over a weekend - and have it back together by Sunday night. So I have to have all the parts together in advance - and pay for shipping and restocking if I don't need them.

By the way, do you have any idea how much of a knuckle-busting experience it is to change out the CCV and hoses once I've already removed the OFH and accessories?
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  #8  
Old 11-12-2011, 02:48 PM
BimmerRedhead BimmerRedhead is offline
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I replaced my ofh gasket and it is still leaking, really bad. took it off again and put black rtv and torqued the 6 bolts to 10, then 20, then to a final 26 ft lbs. what would cause it to still leak?
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  #9  
Old 12-10-2012, 07:29 PM
effduration effduration is offline
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Hey for all you fine folks who want to follow the Oil Filter Housing DIY at

http://www.bmwtips.com/tipsntricks/oil/housing.htm

It's a nice write-up with one major flaw. Be careful. He has a '98 528i with an iron engine block. 99 and later cars have an alloy engine block.

Bryan suggests torquing the 6 housing bolts up to 24 ft lbs. If you do this on an aluminum block, you will likely strip a couple of aluminum threads. Use no more than 18 ft lbs which is the factor spec.

If you do strip threads. you will need to figure out all about Heli-coils

I learned this the hard way
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  #10  
Old 12-11-2012, 04:49 PM
poolman poolman is offline
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Once your into the engine around the oil fliter housing--it's childs play to replace the ccv and the hoses--I say do it all while your in that deep--if not , just leave the hoses alone --they become so brittle after heat cycles they break real easy--that's the main reason I would change them out--vac leaks come up here around the ccv more than anywhere else on these engines
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