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X5 E70 (2007 - 2013)
E70 BMW X5 produced between 2007 and 2013. Discuss the E70 X5 with other BMW owners here.

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  #1  
Old 01-27-2016, 02:49 PM
Armadyllo Armadyllo is offline
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Location: Melbourne Australia
 
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Mein Auto: 335i Sedan M Spec
X5 2008 Hand / E brake malfunction / continued fails

I recently purchsaed a 08 4.8l X5, soon after having the handbrake stuck on I pulled the release and sent it up to BMW to have it looked at, They replaced the actuator under warranty (this had been replaced a year prior).

Not long after the hand brake went again, sent it back to BMW they re set the brake and noted if it happened again they recommended to replace the wiring loom connector.

1 week after the handbrake stuck on with wife driving, but only lit up orange on dash so she proceeded to drive resulting in 2 new discs, pads, hand brake shoes and assembly (luck me).

Had my indy install new discs, pads, shoes etc. and sent back to BMW.

They re set the handbrake and apparently it went again.

They are now dumb founded and have no idea whats causing the problem (bloody hopeless). Typical just throw parts at the problem with out diagnosing it.

So now they want to charge me a fortune for diagnosing this issue and get one of there head technical guys to diagnose the car remotely while being hooked up there computer. $$$

Appreciate any ideas or hearing similar experiences from other members

Thanks

Dyll
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  #2  
Old 01-27-2016, 03:09 PM
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Doug Huffman Doug Huffman is online now
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Location: Washington Island, Wisconsin, thru Death's Door
 
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Mein Auto: 2012 X5 35d (E70)
EMF Parking Brake

EMF Parking Brake 72 pages at

https://drive.google.com/folderview?...drive_web#list
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  #3  
Old 01-27-2016, 03:52 PM
smyles smyles is offline
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Check the wiring and connection to the module underneath the car; given their location, they suffer from oxidation, etc.
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  #4  
Old 01-27-2016, 05:28 PM
Armadyllo Armadyllo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Huffman View Post

Thanks a lot Doug

Much appreciated
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  #5  
Old 01-27-2016, 05:29 PM
Armadyllo Armadyllo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smyles View Post
Check the wiring and connection to the module underneath the car; given their location, they suffer from oxidation, etc.
Thanks Smyles

Pretty sure they replaced that plug last Visit

But I best I check it anyway
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  #6  
Old 01-27-2016, 06:26 PM
JJLALimo JJLALimo is offline
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Mein Auto: 2008 X5 E70
This may not be solution but just my two cents.

Do you or your wife use "Auto hold" (next to E brake) ?
I use it a lot.
It's very convenient to lazy me because A.Hold and E Brake are related and back and forth.

If you push A. Hold when E Brake is activated, dash change red "Brake" to green "Hold" and you can release it by hitting gas pedal.
When A.Hold is activated and you get off driver seat (there is sensor), system automatically switch A. Hold (green) to E.Brake (Red).

What I actually do is, when I come back home and park my X5, I hit A.Hold and shut engine. X5 switch A.Hold to E brake by itself when I got of driver seat.
then when I start X5, my red "Brake" indicator is on (e brake is on), I hit A.Hold instead of releasing E brake then hit gas pedal.
A. Hold is automatically released when I hit gas pedal.

So, those A. Hold and E brake are related and switched back and forth automatically.
If something's wrong with A.Hold or sensor on driver seat, it may affect to e brake too.

By the way, I was driving A.Hold on at traffic light.
I needed to take my wallet out of my pants back pocket.
when I took my wallet, sensor detect driver absent (no weight on driver seat) then switched A.Hold to E Brake automatically.
I hit gas when light turn to green (because I was thinking it was still A.Hold), X5 did not move !
I looked at dash, it was Red "Brake" instead of green "Hold". I had to released e brake manually.

Check if your X5's A.Hold working perfectly.
If something suspicious with A.Hold, maybe/maybe not A.Hold sensor activate e Brake.
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  #7  
Old 01-27-2016, 08:11 PM
smyles smyles is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Armadyllo View Post
Thanks Smyles

Pretty sure they replaced that plug last Visit

But I best I check it anyway
If the plug was bad, very likely the module itself is bad. You may get away with fixing/replacing the pins, though.
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  #8  
Old 01-27-2016, 08:14 PM
Armadyllo Armadyllo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JJLALimo View Post
This may not be solution but just my two cents.

Do you or your wife use "Auto hold" (next to E brake) ?
I use it a lot.
It's very convenient to lazy me because A.Hold and E Brake are related and back and forth.

If you push A. Hold when E Brake is activated, dash change red "Brake" to green "Hold" and you can release it by hitting gas pedal.
When A.Hold is activated and you get off driver seat (there is sensor), system automatically switch A. Hold (green) to E.Brake (Red).

What I actually do is, when I come back home and park my X5, I hit A.Hold and shut engine. X5 switch A.Hold to E brake by itself when I got of driver seat.
then when I start X5, my red "Brake" indicator is on (e brake is on), I hit A.Hold instead of releasing E brake then hit gas pedal.
A. Hold is automatically released when I hit gas pedal.

So, those A. Hold and E brake are related and switched back and forth automatically.
If something's wrong with A.Hold or sensor on driver seat, it may affect to e brake too.

By the way, I was driving A.Hold on at traffic light.
I needed to take my wallet out of my pants back pocket.
when I took my wallet, sensor detect driver absent (no weight on driver seat) then switched A.Hold to E Brake automatically.
I hit gas when light turn to green (because I was thinking it was still A.Hold), X5 did not move !
I looked at dash, it was Red "Brake" instead of green "Hold". I had to released e brake manually.

Check if your X5's A.Hold working perfectly.
If something suspicious with A.Hold, maybe/maybe not A.Hold sensor activate e Brake.
Thanks JJLALimo

Mines only 08 model so I dont think i have the Auto Hold in that Model, but I will check when I get home.

Appreciate your detailed reply

Cheers

Dyllon
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  #9  
Old 01-27-2016, 08:25 PM
Armadyllo Armadyllo is offline
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Location: Melbourne Australia
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smyles View Post
If the plug was bad, very likely the module itself is bad. You may get away with fixing/replacing the pins, though.
Thanks smyles

Originally the EMF module was replaced over a year ago by the previous owner ( I think it cost him over 2000AuD). The hand brake went on me and the module was replaced under warranty.

When the problem persisted they said it was the the wiring connector which was replaced last visit.

But I will check both items anyhow

Thanks

Dyllon
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  #10  
Old 01-27-2016, 08:55 PM
Absentmathis Absentmathis is offline
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Mine went yellow 'brake' today too. Failed to engage so I didn't have to manually release. I started a separate thread before I saw this and may pull the actuator myself tomorrow, but if nothing else it's going to the shop for diag on Friday.
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  #11  
Old 01-28-2016, 08:32 AM
ard ard is online now
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While "they replaced the wiring connector" sounds comforting, I would be concerned with the quality and scope of that work.

Connectors are hard to repllace...they are attached to wiring harnesses...cutting off connectors and splicing onto a harness ia a bit of a hack. Replacing a subharness, if there is a bad connector on the main harness can likewise be a partial fix.

As a DIYer, I have the continuoty of knowledge about 'hat happened in the beginning...what I did...what I did next...etc'. Each time you go to a dealer its a brand new day...

GL
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  #12  
Old 01-28-2016, 09:58 AM
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Doug Huffman Doug Huffman is online now
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BMW connectors are entirely conventional TYCO AMP connectors and pin/sockets. The extractors, that fold down the latching tabs, are commonly available including on amaXon. The crimpers are available but are expensive and common.

Disconnect the suspected connector and carefully visually inspect for the suspected failed pin/socked. Carefully match the standing part connector half with the available stock The component side connector failure will likely mean component replacement due to too short lead length to remake the pin/socket.

If one is a good hand with a soldering iron I recommend soldering the pin/socket after crimping the conductor and crimping the insulation. I recommend also a dab of anti-corrosion connection improver (NOT dielectric grease, dielectric means insulator).
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  #13  
Old 01-28-2016, 12:27 PM
Armadyllo Armadyllo is offline
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Location: Melbourne Australia
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
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Mein Auto: 335i Sedan M Spec
Quote:
Originally Posted by ard View Post
While "they replaced the wiring connector" sounds comforting, I would be concerned with the quality and scope of that work.

Connectors are hard to repllace...they are attached to wiring harnesses...cutting off connectors and splicing onto a harness ia a bit of a hack. Replacing a subharness, if there is a bad connector on the main harness can likewise be a partial fix.

As a DIYer, I have the continuoty of knowledge about 'hat happened in the beginning...what I did...what I did next...etc'. Each time you go to a dealer its a brand new day...

GL
Thanks ARD

I must admit I was slightly concerned when they mentioned "cutting wires", arn't these looms already short and add strain to the connector ?

I believe one of the fixes is to re route the loom in the centre console
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  #14  
Old 01-28-2016, 12:30 PM
Armadyllo Armadyllo is offline
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Location: Melbourne Australia
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 56
Mein Auto: 335i Sedan M Spec
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug Huffman View Post
BMW connectors are entirely conventional TYCO AMP connectors and pin/sockets. The extractors, that fold down the latching tabs, are commonly available including on amaXon. The crimpers are available but are expensive and common.

Disconnect the suspected connector and carefully visually inspect for the suspected failed pin/socked. Carefully match the standing part connector half with the available stock The component side connector failure will likely mean component replacement due to too short lead length to remake the pin/socket.

If one is a good hand with a soldering iron I recommend soldering the pin/socket after crimping the conductor and crimping the insulation. I recommend also a dab of anti-corrosion connection improver (NOT dielectric grease, dielectric means insulator).
Thanks alot Doug

Very informative information there

I'll have a look this weekend
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  #15  
Old 02-10-2016, 09:03 PM
Armadyllo Armadyllo is offline
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Location: Melbourne Australia
 
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Mein Auto: 335i Sedan M Spec
Update from BMW

I asked if there head mechanic could respond to a couple of questions/ ideas what could be the cause of the handbrake failure.

Anyway to cut a long story short this is their response:

“Hey Dyllon, Dom has said the handbrake shoes won’t affect the system. He thinks it might be a DSC control unit as the car thinks it moving…

Hope this helps…”

Does this sound likely or has anyone experienced this ? I don’t want to purchase this and it does not fix the problem

I don’t want to use BMW to fit this, they will bend me over, if I put a new DSC in does it need to be coded ?

Many Thanks

Dyll
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  #16  
Old 02-11-2016, 05:47 AM
Absentmathis Absentmathis is offline
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Once you confirm the cables aren't broken, there's really not much else that can be wrong with it. I've currently got mine shipped off to a repair service in the UK. Think it was $375 and that included new cables.
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