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7 Series - E38 (1995 - 2001)

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  #1  
Old 11-30-2012, 08:11 PM
awright1412 awright1412 is offline
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Location: Nashville, TN
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
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Mein Auto: 1995 bmw 318is
2000 740i Timing code over advance on bank 1 and 2.PLEASE HELP!!!!

Please HELP!!!!!!!! I have the timing code still after changing the chains, tensoiners and guide rails, I have tried to time it 3 times, I used the timing tools for tdc and cam lock , continuity test ,but I'm still getting the codes. I followed the TIS instructions. Can't figure it out. PLEASE HELP!! If you have done this before and can give me a few tips as to what it is I am Missing. The car starts but has a irratic idle, bounces below 1000 and 2000 rpm until it cuts out. I'm pulling a p0011 and a p0021. timing over on both banks...PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks in advance
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  #2  
Old 12-01-2012, 07:48 AM
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joyism5 joyism5 is offline
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Mein Auto: '99 740IL, K75RT
Have you used the tools for the camshaft position sensors too? To align that plate at the end of the camshaft.
Have you used the tool for the main tensioner?
Did you removed the VANOS units when you changed the chains?
Do you have any other codes? For Vanos solenoids?
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Old 12-01-2012, 09:38 AM
awright1412 awright1412 is offline
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Mein Auto: 1995 bmw 318is
Joyism5

joyism5, I used the tool to align the camshaft wheel sensors, and the chain tensioner tool with slight tension on the guide. Here is a breif rundown of what I did: put the flywheel pin in for TDC, (after removing the vanos cover and valve cover) mount the chain tenioner tool, then camshaft lock down tools, loosen the main vanos bolts and use tool to set for continuity test. Use the camshaft alignment tools to align the camshaft sensors. On my second go, I took the vanos units off and replaced the seals, the chains, tensioners, guide rails and cps sensors. I do have a couple of questions, should the chain tensioner tool be tightend to a certain amount of torque? and I read that the main vanos bolt should be torqued to about 110nm. I only found this info a few days ago, I believe i torqued them to about 60nm for fear of snapping them, unless I am missing something that the only thing I am aware of, I know I am missing something, what do you think? There are no other codes only the 2. Thanks

Last edited by awright1412; 12-01-2012 at 09:48 AM. Reason: forgot some info
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  #4  
Old 12-01-2012, 08:53 PM
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joyism5 joyism5 is offline
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Mein Auto: '99 740IL, K75RT
Quote:
Originally Posted by awright1412 View Post
should the chain tensioner tool be tightend to a certain amount of torque?
Tighten only with your fingers. That's to eliminate the slap in the chain when you are setting the timing.
When I did the work on my engine the only special tool, was the camshaft locking tool, and that one I made it in the garage using a template from the forum. I removed the engine, had it on stand for few weeks, and I had time to study a little bit. Made a lot of marks on timing, took pictures and just used my imagination for the timing set-up. The alignment plate can be checked without removing any cover. You just need to set the engine at TDC, insert the flywheel locking tool and look at the upper timing covers. There are 2 screw on each upper timing cover that are not used to hold anything. You need a torx bit to remove them. They are close to each camshaft sensor. After removing these 2 screws find a longer screw that it will fit in that hole without wiggling. No need to be tighten in. Just slide in. When you insert the screw, it should go through the hole of the camshaft position sensor plate, and should touch the camshaft. With another words the hole from the plate should perfectly align with the hole from where you took the screws. These were my reference for my plate alignment. I checked them before, and after disassembly, and I had no codes for timing. I am pretty sure that this is the purpose for the holes.
I think your timing is not set up correctly.
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  #5  
Old 01-02-2013, 05:58 PM
Bigrobsbmw Bigrobsbmw is offline
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Mein Auto: 2004 745i, 2001 740i
Did you ever get your timing problems solved. I recently replaced mine with the same results, but I have the solution.
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  #6  
Old 01-03-2013, 10:54 PM
BMW 3-SERIES BMW 3-SERIES is offline
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Mein Auto: 2000 540i Sport (E39)
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I think I know your problem!

I went through similar things except I was getting P1519 and P1522 which means those are VANOS faults. P1519 and 1522 are Intake Cam VANOS faults for improper timed VANOS which means they wont kick in. Otherwise, for those who suffer P0011 and 21, those are timing issues. You need to rent or use the VANOS tools. And time like this:

There are two-strokes for engine. When changing timing chains, most people do not set their engines to TDC (Top Dead Center) which means Piston 1 on Bank 1 (Passenger Side - Closest to front) is not TDC (Piston all the way to the top) so best why to check this is remove the spark plug on Bank 1 - Cylinder 1, stick the dip stick in and turn to motor by hand using 29mm I think. As you turn the crank, the dip stick moves in and out. Make sure the dip stick is all the way out. This means its at TDC. At this point, get underneath the car, set the flywheel pin. Now proceed to the cams locks. Remove the VANOS Solenoids to relieve pressure (optional) turn Cams until they show A and E facing up. Than lock them down. At this point your are correctly timed and set. You can also check your pulley marking as it has OT stamped in. You must match the OT to the mark on the lower timing cover. I think this is the most common problem, people who do this job did not have their engine set to the right stroke/TDC.

To Summarize:
  1. Engine must be set to TDC (Top Dead Center)
  2. Flywheel Pin must be set after setting engine to TDC
  3. Cams must be Locked Down when they show A - E facing up!

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Last edited by BMW 3-SERIES; 01-03-2013 at 10:56 PM.
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