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E36 (1991 - 1999)
The E36 chassis 3-Series BMW was a huge hit among driving enthusiasts from the first moment the car hit the pavement. The E36 won numerous awards over the years it was produced and is still a favorite of many BMW enthusiasts to this day! -- View the E36 Wiki

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  #51  
Old 12-15-2012, 10:12 PM
kmrpt1 kmrpt1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonesin View Post
For the hood latches again it's just a case of lubrication.
For hood, should I use the same Graphite spray lubrication or some thing else is better? Also one more question (I read in sticky thread about oil change) as Mobile 1 and RP is recommended.) I bought Mobile 1 - Synthetic 5W30, I bought three so that I can use for two times . They are on sale on CT for $39 4.4 Liters each.
Question 1: are they ok for 325 who has 370k km on it?
Question 2:If I store the oil for 3 to 4 months.. is it ok. As one and half bottle I will use it now and rest one and half will probably use after 6000 km which will be probably 3 to 4 months. So can I store it in Garage (which has no heat) or should I keep inside the house for normal temperature?
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  #52  
Old 12-15-2012, 10:26 PM
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Storage time is not an issue at all, though I'd have of bought a different weight. I use either 10W40 in summer, or 0W40 in winter. I've found that I've heard ticking with xW30 weight oils in my car. (Caused by them being a bit too thin at operating temperature).
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  #53  
Old 12-16-2012, 07:06 AM
kmrpt1 kmrpt1 is offline
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Originally Posted by jonesin View Post
Storage time is not an issue at all, though I'd have of bought a different weight. I use either 10W40 in summer, or 0W40 in winter. I've found that I've heard ticking with xW30 weight oils in my car. (Caused by them being a bit too thin at operating temperature).
Thank you I will change the weight to 0W40. Is RoyalPurple would be better as Mobile1 as my car engine is more loudy?
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  #54  
Old 12-16-2012, 07:11 AM
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Thank you I will change the weight to 0W40. Is RoyalPurple would be better as Mobile1 as my car engine is more loudy?
Nothing at all wrong with Mobil 1. Myself, I use it or Amsoil whichever I find on sale. RP is usually too rich for my blood.
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  #55  
Old 12-16-2012, 07:21 AM
kmrpt1 kmrpt1 is offline
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Originally Posted by jonesin View Post
Nothing at all wrong with Mobil 1. Myself, I use it or Amsoil whichever I find on sale. RP is usually too rich for my blood.
Ohh I have Amsoil. I bought it last year for my Honda then I sold the car and never get a chance to use it. One question; is it ok to change the oil like some time I will use Mobile1 and some time Amsoil.. (depend on sale) ? Would it hurt the car engine?
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  #56  
Old 12-16-2012, 07:23 AM
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Not at all. I use whichever I find on sale.
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  #57  
Old 12-16-2012, 08:49 AM
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dc_wright dc_wright is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kmrpt1 View Post
For hood, should I use the same Graphite spray lubrication or some thing else is better? Also one more question (I read in sticky thread about oil change) as Mobile 1 and RP is recommended.) I bought Mobile 1 - Synthetic 5W30, I bought three so that I can use for two times . They are on sale on CT for $39 4.4 Liters each.
Question 1: are they ok for 325 who has 370k km on it?
Question 2:If I store the oil for 3 to 4 months.. is it ok. As one and half bottle I will use it now and rest one and half will probably use after 6000 km which will be probably 3 to 4 months. So can I store it in Garage (which has no heat) or should I keep inside the house for normal temperature?
For the hood latches I would use a good penetrating oil first like PB Blaster or CRC, then white lithium grease which you can get in a spray can also.
Also, check on the hood to make certain the two bayonets are there that go into the latch holes. If those are missing then your hood latch cable may be broken and someone has opened it by going from underneath and unscrewing the latching bayonets.

This is in the stickies, but if you got to www.RealOEM.com you can see diagrams and get part numbers for parts for your car.
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  #58  
Old 12-16-2012, 09:10 AM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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The rectangular slot you have outlined in your picture below is the safety latch slot. There is no lock mechanism in that slot. The safety latch is sandwiched between the hood and the driver's side latch bayonet. It is it's own latch mechanism. The two bayonets have a wire-like latch in the sockets. Yours does seem to be missing.

(and, yes, fellow E36ers, that's Elvira's hood. Now you know just how rusty she is! )
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1995 318is "Bebe"; 1993 325is "Elvira" 1985 635CSi "Katja" 1984 633CSi "Sylvia"
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Last edited by hornhospital; 12-16-2012 at 09:17 AM.
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  #59  
Old 12-16-2012, 09:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hornhospital View Post
Yours does seem to be missing.
The latch(es) might just be stuck in the retracted position........that would explain why we can't see it and his hood won't latch shut.
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  #60  
Old 12-16-2012, 10:02 AM
kmrpt1 kmrpt1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonesin View Post
For the hood latches again it's just a case of lubrication.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dc_wright View Post
For the hood latches I would use a good penetrating oil first like PB Blaster or CRC, then white lithium grease which you can get in a spray can also.
Also, check on the hood to make certain the two bayonets are there that go into the latch holes. If those are missing then your hood latch cable may be broken and someone has opened it by going from underneath and unscrewing the latching bayonets.

This is in the stickies, but if you got to www.RealOEM.com you can see diagrams and get part numbers for parts for your car.
I used Graphite spray and it started working now. Thank you guys. Now I will change the battery and then car will be in running condition and next step is now start working on the car
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  #61  
Old 12-16-2012, 10:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kmrpt1 View Post
I used Graphite spray and it started working now. Thank you guys. Now I will change the battery and then car will be in running condition and next step is now start working on the car
I would still hit it with the penetrating oil and then some good grease. The graphite lube is pretty light duty, and you DO NOT want the hood latches to stick when it's in the closed position. The graphite spray is great for the internals of the locks because it's very light and low viscosity. The hood latches require/deserve a heavier duty lubricant.

You don't want to be coming back to the forum with a "my hood latches wouldn't release and I broke the cable trying to force it open, what do I do now" thread.
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  #62  
Old 12-16-2012, 11:11 AM
kmrpt1 kmrpt1 is offline
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Originally Posted by dc_wright View Post
I would still hit it with the penetrating oil and then some good grease. The graphite lube is pretty light duty, and you DO NOT want the hood latches to stick when it's in the closed position. The graphite spray is great for the internals of the locks because it's very light and low viscosity. The hood latches require/deserve a heavier duty lubricant.

You don't want to be coming back to the forum with a "my hood latches wouldn't release and I broke the cable trying to force it open, what do I do now" thread.
I would definitly go for your suggestion 'penetrating oil and then some good grease' Can you please refer me some good product which I can buy from Canadian tire or autozone.

Thanks.
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  #63  
Old 12-16-2012, 02:01 PM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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Penetrating fluid:

http://reviews.canadiantire.ca/9045/...ws/reviews.htm

White Lithium grease in a spray can:

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brows....jsp?locale=en

C'mon, man, Google is your friend.
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1995 318is "Bebe"; 1993 325is "Elvira" 1985 635CSi "Katja" 1984 633CSi "Sylvia"
HAVE I HAD MY MEDS YET?


Last edited by hornhospital; 12-16-2012 at 02:03 PM.
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  #64  
Old 12-16-2012, 06:29 PM
kmrpt1 kmrpt1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hornhospital View Post
Penetrating fluid:

http://reviews.canadiantire.ca/9045/...ws/reviews.htm

White Lithium grease in a spray can:

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brows....jsp?locale=en

C'mon, man, Google is your friend.
Thanks my friend; Just concious to use the right product for my car as you guys are experienced.
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  #65  
Old 12-17-2012, 07:14 AM
kmrpt1 kmrpt1 is offline
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My next target is to fix the wiper issue. From the bentley manual I will try to found the wiper relay but my main issue is how to test it if it is working or not? I think from meter I can test it may be I have a basic meter will give a try tonight.

Thanks.
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  #66  
Old 12-17-2012, 09:54 AM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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Wiper module location:



It's behind the glove box, # A51 in that drawing.

Wiper fuses are 3, 36, 37 and 44
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1995 318is "Bebe"; 1993 325is "Elvira" 1985 635CSi "Katja" 1984 633CSi "Sylvia"
HAVE I HAD MY MEDS YET?

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  #67  
Old 12-17-2012, 10:28 AM
kmrpt1 kmrpt1 is offline
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Originally Posted by hornhospital View Post
Wiper module location:



It's behind the glove box, # A51 in that drawing.

Wiper fuses are 3, 36, 37 and 44
Thank you, tonight I will try to find these.
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  #68  
Old 12-22-2012, 10:53 PM
kmrpt1 kmrpt1 is offline
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Not sure what is called the right hand side meter (whose needle moves with accelerator)

I installed the battery (it is not BMW) but car starts fine.

First day when battery was not good we stopped the car and it was not starting due to the battery, so we push the car and in first gear we released the clutch and it started but its needle was going up and down and after some time it was ok.

After that due to the battery it was not started for two weeks almost.
Now today when I put a generic used battery, it started perfectly and then I drove the car as test drive, on first and second gear when I push the clutch (to shift the gear) I noticed that its accelerator meter needle (right hand side meter beside speedo meter) is going up and down automatically.
Is it a thermostat problem sign or some thing else?

Also the heat needle just stay in blue area does not come till half (not sure it is good or bad)
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  #69  
Old 12-22-2012, 11:46 PM
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That's the tachometer. It shows the engine speed in revolutions per minute X 1000 (the #1 mark means 1000 rpm, etc.), and yes, it going up and down when you shift is normal. the engine speed varies with the gear selected. When the clutch is depressed the engine speed drops (if you let up on the gas pedal). At idle (engine running, car stopped) it should be about 750 rpm.

About the battery; BMW vs. any other brand/type: The car doesn't know if the battery is a BMW one or not. ANY 12 volt battery will work as long as it is of sufficient capacity, it has the positive and negative posts in the right configuration to allow the cables to connect, and it fits in the battery compartment.

Edit: the temperature gauge never comes up off the blue (cold) part of the gauge? Not good. Not anywhere near as bad as it running hot, but if it really is running full cold all the time it's wasting fuel.
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BMW-CCA #441426
1995 318is "Bebe"; 1993 325is "Elvira" 1985 635CSi "Katja" 1984 633CSi "Sylvia"
HAVE I HAD MY MEDS YET?


Last edited by hornhospital; 12-22-2012 at 11:48 PM.
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  #70  
Old 12-22-2012, 11:56 PM
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noexceptions325 noexceptions325 is offline
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sounds like the thermostat is stuck open or non existent.

also, i happen to have a wiper control module out of a 95 if you PM me you can have it.. just give me a couple bucks to mail it to canada haha
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  #71  
Old 12-23-2012, 11:13 PM
kmrpt1 kmrpt1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hornhospital View Post
That's the tachometer. It shows the engine speed in revolutions per minute X 1000 (the #1 mark means 1000 rpm, etc.), and yes, it going up and down when you shift is normal. the engine speed varies with the gear selected. When the wasting fuel.
Today I drove the car again and heat needle is going to half. So thermostat is ok I think now. Issue is now Techometer RPM is going up and down automatically.
What could be the reason; are the following correct possiblities of doing this?

1. There is air in cooling system and if I bleed the air it will be ok?
2. Some gasket issue
3. Some sensor issue as 'Check' light is also on in dashboard warning
4. Battery amp, if the battery is not correct spec?
5. Is that possible that accelerator padal is stucking because when I push the gas paddle and release it, it comes back but not all the way.
6. vacuum leak?
7. VANOS unit?

Also please what else can be the reasons for this RPM up and down and if above reasons are valid or not?

Quote:
Originally Posted by noexceptions325 View Post
sounds like the thermostat is stuck open or non existent.

also, i happen to have a wiper control module out of a 95 if you PM me you can have it.. just give me a couple bucks to mail it to canada haha
I tested wiper they are working only on maximum speed. I will get back to this issue first want to resolve the RPM issue.

Last edited by kmrpt1; 12-23-2012 at 11:51 PM.
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  #72  
Old 12-24-2012, 01:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kmrpt1 View Post
Today I drove the car again and heat needle is going to half. So thermostat is ok I think now. Issue is now Techometer RPM is going up and down automatically.
What could be the reason; are the following correct possiblities of doing this?

1. There is air in cooling system and if I bleed the air it will be ok?If the temperatre needle is going to the 12 o'clock position and not moving from there, that is what it should be doing.
2. Some gasket issue Nothing to do with tachometer.
3. Some sensor issue as 'Check' light is also on in dashboard warning Search for Stomp Test. Post up the codes it is showing.
4. Battery amp, if the battery is not correct spec? What is up with the battery?
5. Is that possible that accelerator padal is stucking because when I push the gas paddle and release it, it comes back but not all the way. Possible that it is sticking, just use some penetrating lubricant at the bottom of the pedal to ensure there is no corrosion there.
6. vacuum leak?Could affect tachometer.
7. VANOS unit?Affects valve timing, not engine speed.

Also please what else can be the reasons for this RPM up and down and if above reasons are valid or not?


I tested wiper they are working only on maximum speed. I will get back to this issue first want to resolve the RPM issue.
Long story short, most of what is in your list above have naught to do with your engine speed. Take a video of what your tachometer is showing you.
-when the car is idling for 30 seconds.
-when you rev the engine to 2000 rpm and hold it for 30 seconds.
-when you rev the engine to 4999 rpm and hold it for 30 seconds.
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  #73  
Old 12-24-2012, 11:24 AM
kmrpt1 kmrpt1 is offline
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ahh.... new issue, my break oil start leaking from rear wheel of driverside (left side); I will search how to fix it but just quick question, can I do that or I have to go to mechanic to do it,

As I could not drive but I started and tested the RPM issue. for 30 second I did 2000 and 30 sec I did 4000 RPM and no problem; the problem comes only if I drive the car a little bit then it start raf up/down but this time I could not drive as break light came and I checked the fluid it was low so while filling noticed it is leaking very badly from rear left wheel.
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  #74  
Old 12-24-2012, 12:26 PM
kmrpt1 kmrpt1 is offline
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For break-line fix, should I go to any regular mechanic or I should go to BMW expert mechanic,
Also anybody knows good mechanic in Mississauga or near Mississauga?

Edit: Also just a roughly idea how much charges should the mechanic will charge to change the break lines?
Thanks.

Last edited by kmrpt1; 12-24-2012 at 12:34 PM.
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  #75  
Old 12-24-2012, 01:14 PM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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Is it leaking from the LINE or the brake caliper itself? And you chose wisely. DO NOT drive it like that. I'm not being ugly here: if you have to ask about whether you can fix it or not, no, you can't. Working on disc brakes is not difficult, but it takes some special tools and a clear understanding of what's involved. Changing pads is simple. Repairing/rebuilding caliper cylinders is not.
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1995 318is "Bebe"; 1993 325is "Elvira" 1985 635CSi "Katja" 1984 633CSi "Sylvia"
HAVE I HAD MY MEDS YET?

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