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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 3 Series / 4 Series > E36 (1991 - 1999)

E36 (1991 - 1999)
The E36 chassis 3-Series BMW was a huge hit among driving enthusiasts from the first moment the car hit the pavement. The E36 won numerous awards over the years it was produced and is still a favorite of many BMW enthusiasts to this day! -- View the E36 Wiki

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  #101  
Old 02-08-2013, 09:28 AM
Eight Thirty Eight Thirty is offline
nothing.
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make sure you don't chock the wheel your jacking up...... just note that. haha
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  #102  
Old 02-08-2013, 09:38 AM
hnaz hnaz is online now
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Originally Posted by Eight Thirty View Post


make sure you don't chock the wheel your jacking up...... just note that. haha
No boobs.
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  #103  
Old 02-08-2013, 09:21 PM
kmrpt1 kmrpt1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eight Thirty View Post

make sure you don't chock the wheel your jacking up...... just note that. haha
Thanks..I am very excited to test it but ahhh... we got loooot of snow today.
Will test soon. I need to find where my rear break is leaking actually before going to mechanic.

Last edited by kmrpt1; 02-08-2013 at 09:22 PM.
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  #104  
Old 02-08-2013, 09:35 PM
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Hectorml07 Hectorml07 is offline
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Originally Posted by hnaz View Post
No boobs.


Haha funny stuff!
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  #105  
Old 02-09-2013, 08:01 AM
kmrpt1 kmrpt1 is offline
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Is that car stand is good?

Is those stands are good and reliable in quality and for BMW 325 weight ?



Thanks
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  #106  
Old 02-09-2013, 08:04 AM
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jonesin jonesin is offline
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Yes, I've got those same stands.

Franklyn, just saw your epicness of MS Paint.


Dude, my esteem for you just rose.
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I grew up in a time when the internet was just a baby. Grammar back then versus now... holy cow. You could watch the degradation of society as the internet became more mature.
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  #107  
Old 02-09-2013, 08:15 AM
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drivinfaster drivinfaster is offline
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Franklyn, just saw your epicness of MS Paint.


Dude, my esteem for you just rose.
still no boobs for you....no matter *how* awesome you say his ms paint work is...






df
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  #108  
Old 02-09-2013, 08:46 AM
Eight Thirty Eight Thirty is offline
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Haha i like using ms paint.. only took me like 15 minutes to make that. Lmao.
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  #109  
Old 02-09-2013, 12:20 PM
kmrpt1 kmrpt1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonesin View Post
Franklyn, just saw your epicness of MS Paint.
Dude, my esteem for you just rose.
Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by drivinfaster View Post
still no boobs for you....no matter *how* awesome you say his ms paint work is...

df
still ........???


Quote:
Originally Posted by Eight Thirty View Post
Haha i like using ms paint.. only took me like 15 minutes to make that. Lmao.
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  #110  
Old 02-10-2013, 07:50 PM
kmrpt1 kmrpt1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eight Thirty View Post

make sure you don't chock the wheel your jacking up...... just note that. haha
You guys are right and I tested the jack , it worked... wonderful...
thanks for the advise. I will not go underneath the car with this jack. I will just lift it, to put car stand.

Last edited by kmrpt1; 02-12-2013 at 09:59 PM.
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  #111  
Old 06-29-2013, 02:33 PM
kmrpt1 kmrpt1 is offline
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Brake line leask and master cylender issue

Due to personal issues I could not continue my project but now I decided to start it again. The RPM up/down issue is solved as it was rusted so after cleaing, WD 40 and lubication it is working. Now I toed the car to mechanic for break line. He told me not to fix the car as he was saying it would take at least $1000 to fix it (front breaks and bushings and sealings; He said looks transmission is also leaking. Any way after some thought I decided to fix it.

Now the main issue is break line leak but now mechanic is saying that pressure is not building. I saw a huge break leak from rear left wheel; now he says no leak but no pressure. He says looks like master cylinder is gone. some body also told me that if break line leaks and it is not fixed in time..its master cylinder is gone. Is it true?
How can I verify that master cylinder is ok or not? can it be repaired? Can I put used one? And should I fix the line first and then master cilnder or first cylinder and then break line.
The mechanic will do but I have to guide him or at least I want to know first.

Thanks guys..
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  #112  
Old 06-29-2013, 08:20 PM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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Is there NO OTHER mechanic around there!??? That guy sounds like an idiot....or worse yet, an outright crook. I'm serious....get your car to someone that actually knows what they're doing. $1000 for front brakes (note spelling, please), bushings and seals? That's preposterous.
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  #113  
Old 06-29-2013, 11:20 PM
kmrpt1 kmrpt1 is offline
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I will ask him in details on Tuesday as here is long weekend; but tell me two things;

1) Is it true that if break line is leak and we press the brakes many times then master cylinder is gone? can it be repair?

2) How much cost should be roughly to fix the leak brake line of rear left wheel and master and slave cylinder.

Actually I need safety to get the plates; once I got plate then I can take it to one mechanic (Charlie )
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  #114  
Old 07-10-2013, 11:39 AM
kmrpt1 kmrpt1 is offline
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I asked him to check again and just fix the *break [Edit: typo error; *break=brake] line. After break line leak fix, now breaks are ok.
Now I will start the project.
1) First I want to clean (detail the car from outside/inside) so I will clean/polish dashboard, seats and carpet. I have steamer so will use it for carpets.
2) I want to do following tasks, please i request to you guys to see if I am missing some basic should do task to restore the car.

1. Flush the oil and change the oil
2. Change the spark plugs and wires
3. Flush the radiator water.
4. There are some small body rust spots which I need to fix.
5. Bottom skirt need to be painted.
6. I want to paint grill to black.
7. Restore the head-lights
8. Either make angle eys to light or put yellow tinted paper on it.
9. Fix the bumper and put fog lights.

There is rust and oil at the bottom of the car, what is good way to clean it. Should I use engine degrees-er and WD-40 or something else.

Also stick knob is broken and seems its bushing need to be replaced. I will do that too.
So these are basic parts which I think I must need to do before to test the car. Also it has snow tires on steel rims, I am looking for some alloy rims with tire. I want black, so should I buy used one and paint my self? Can I do that?
Edit: Also the car has missing radio so I need to install a Sony mp3 to it.

Last edited by kmrpt1; 07-10-2013 at 11:56 AM.
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  #115  
Old 07-10-2013, 11:41 AM
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petriej petriej is offline
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Did he fix or break the line?
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Jared, why don't you just put "It's Giubo" in your sig? Save a lot of typing.
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this jared guy sounds intimidating lol.
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  #116  
Old 07-10-2013, 11:53 AM
kmrpt1 kmrpt1 is offline
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Originally Posted by petriej View Post
Did he fix or break the line?
sorry mis typo:
brake not break

actually he fixed the brake, so i am very happy and exited..
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  #117  
Old 07-10-2013, 02:53 PM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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I'm excited that you're exited.






(messin with ya)
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1995 318is "Bebe"; 1993 325is "Elvira" 1985 635CSi "Katja" 1984 633CSi "Sylvia"
HAVE I HAD MY MEDS YET?

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  #118  
Old 07-11-2013, 09:29 AM
kmrpt1 kmrpt1 is offline
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Rims, spark-plug and wires

Rims:
I need to change the Rims and tires as currently I have snow tire on steel-rims.
Is that possible to get used rims for $100? Also which year rims are compatible for my 95 325i ? Can I put 5-series rims also? Also I would like to paint the rims black if possible? Any tip and guidance for that.

Spark-plug and wire:
I think spark-plug info is in sticky posts. I am wondering if is it good idea to change the spark-plug wires too? If yes then any specific wires or should I get it from dealer?

Regards,
KM
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  #119  
Old 07-14-2013, 11:55 AM
kmrpt1 kmrpt1 is offline
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I am trying to clean my car from inside/outside. I found it has lot of small scratches all over the body; not sure how it did .. may be auto car wash. (it is before I got it and as car was dirty so I could not notice. )

I want to fix them ..first as quickly and which scratches will not remove then I will touch up and then fix it. I got the link in stickie posts about detailing.

Can anyone suggest me some good polish or compound or wax (I am not fully aware of diffirence between them) to remove small scratches like key scratches.. type etc. )
I have black 325i. 95 year.
Also look the pic, I have this kind of polisher.. is that good enough or I should buy some other?

Regards.
K.
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  #120  
Old 07-15-2013, 08:51 PM
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hornhospital hornhospital is offline
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Re: First time buyer of 325i - going to work on it.

That buffer should work fine. For heavy scratches and severely weathered paint you'd probably be better off with a rotary buffer than a random orbital. I used Meguiars Ultimate compound on the 84 633, but only after color sanding it, since the paint was simply awful. It was the texture of a chalk board.

Sent from my MB860 using BimmerApp mobile app
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Quotes to live by:
guessing gets expensive...drivinfaster
nothing is more expensive than a cheap BMW...c4harpe13

Ken Kanne, Silverhill, AL, E36 Forum Mod/Craigslist addict/Hoarder of all sorts of stuff
BMW-CCA #441426
1995 318is "Bebe"; 1993 325is "Elvira" 1985 635CSi "Katja" 1984 633CSi "Sylvia"
HAVE I HAD MY MEDS YET?

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  #121  
Old 07-16-2013, 01:33 AM
Dunzo Dunzo is offline
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Been reading through this post. I thought my E36 with 190km (118 miles) I bought last year for $1100 was trouble, but man you really took a gamble with that purchase.
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  #122  
Old 07-16-2013, 12:23 PM
kmrpt1 kmrpt1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dunzo View Post
Been reading through this post. I thought my E36 with 190km (118 miles) I bought last year for $1100 was trouble, but man you really took a gamble with that purchase.
Many times I hesitated but now I have decided to do it as project; but the problem is that I have very limited space and busy schedule.
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  #123  
Old 07-16-2013, 12:25 PM
kmrpt1 kmrpt1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hornhospital View Post
That buffer should work fine. For heavy scratches and severely weathered paint you'd probably be better off with a rotary buffer than a random orbital. I used Meguiars Ultimate compound on the 84 633, but only after color sanding it, since the paint was simply awful. It was the texture of a chalk board.

Sent from my MB860 using BimmerApp mobile app
The paint is bad condition. I think previous owner used to park under some tree.
Is there any good rotary buffer with reason able price (like under $80)?
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  #124  
Old 07-16-2013, 12:46 PM
Dunzo Dunzo is offline
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Originally Posted by kmrpt1 View Post
Many times I hesitated but now I have decided to do it as project; but the problem is that I have very limited space and busy schedule.
Yeah, its a big project and I'm still working on mine a year later. But with such high km your concern should be with the engine block being worn out. I doubt the previous owner did regular coolant flushes and the head gasket may be pretty eaten away. Honestly if I were you I'd completely disassemble the block, replace the gaskets, and completely clean out the intake manifold, replace all the seals and gaskets. You should improve the gas mileage and will get alot more kms out of it before it breaks down on the road.
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  #125  
Old 07-16-2013, 12:54 PM
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ZeGerman ZeGerman is online now
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Huh? Don't ever tear an engine down unless you have good reason to do so. If you're really concerned about it, just perform a compression test and have the oil analyzed. If it checks out, leave it alone.
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