Non-Start after rough running in the rain

UPDATE: Solved! It was the fuel pump. See last message in thread.


OK, this one is turning into a tough one to diagnose. Any ideas appreciated.

2000 323i 188K miles

Driving in rain today, CEL comes on. I limp home and the car is low on power and severely hesitates under 2k... but at least I make it home.

I plug in my PA Soft BMW scanner and get the following errors:

DME Errors
92[146] Minor Leak 0.5mm; fuel cap possibly not secured
E3[227] Ox-s control deviation, bank 1 too large
E4[228] Ox-s control deviation, bank 2 too large
EE[230] Misfire. cylinder 1
EF[239] Misfire. cylinder 1
7F[127] Activation, solenoid valve, suction-jet pump

LCM Errors
16[022] Turn lights switch / wire. short circuit to ground
17[023] High beam / headlight flasher switch. sort circuit to ground
33[051] Sidelight front right
38[056] Sidelight front left
3E[062] Rear fog light faulty

IKE Errors
11[017] Thermal oil level sensor
BE[190] Data-filing difference to central light module (LCM)

...car just cranks and cranks (very strongly), but won't start.

Unplugged MAF and still no start. Checked all connectors in engine compartment, none seem we or loose. Inspected grounds.

Recent DIY work done - CCV (double-checked all vacuum connections still fine); water pump; belt pulleys; soldered faulty dome light; rear springs and shocks; Vanos oil line replacement. Car ran fine after all of these (no CEL until today).

Maybe a ground got wet in the rain?? What non-start conditions that don't include sensor errors could these be caused by? Any ideas folks? Could a faulty key do this? I only have one unfortunately... I'm scratching my head here...

Any time you have a number of unrelated gremlins pop up like that, the battery is the number one Usual Suspect. These cars are extremely battery-dependent, and will develop major weirdness in the presence of a weak or failing battery. Autozone or Walmart has a replacement for $100. Clean and tighten all electrical connections, especially the ground wire where it connects to the chassis.

Originally Posted by Fast Bob

Any time you have a number of unrelated gremlins pop up like that, the battery is the number one Usual Suspect. These cars are extremely battery-dependent, and will develop major weirdness in the presence of a weak or failing battery. Autozone or Walmart has a replacement for $100. Clean and tighten all electrical connections, especially the ground wire where it connects to the chassis.

Hmmm... I will throw the DMM on it tomorrow, but the starter was cranking very strongly. I can't test the charging system since it won't start.

Originally Posted by Fast Bob

Any time you have a number of unrelated gremlins pop up like that, the battery is the number one Usual Suspect. These cars are extremely battery-dependent, and will develop major weirdness in the presence of a weak or failing battery. Autozone or Walmart has a replacement for $100. Clean and tighten all electrical connections, especially the ground wire where it connects to the chassis.

The DMM reads 13.7v at the battery and also 13.7v at the jumper post in the engine compartment. I am trying the 15 minute battery lead short test now (unplugging both battery leads and connecting them together for 15 minutes). Will see if that does anything. Next check will be the fuel pump and suction pump.

Question: When I was replacing the CCV, there is an electrical box that you unbolt and move out of the way. Is there any way being too rough on that could have caused a short that would cause these issues? I don't think so, since they are mostly connectors for the DISA, ICV, MAF and VANOS, (which I think would show different errors than what I have), but maybe a wire was bare and water shorted it?

Do you have pressure on the fuel line? Can you hear the fuel pump prime?

Originally Posted by joegr

Do you have pressure on the fuel line? Can you hear the fuel pump prime?

SOLVED. ...it seems great minds think alike. While you were posting this, that was exactly what I was looking into. Looks like it was a flakey fuel pump that finally died. I jumped it and no noise. Just replaced it and all is well.

The light module errors were unrelated and were probably caused by a loose connector at the instrument cluster I took it apart a few weeks ago to fix the tabs that set the clock. When I did, the fastener that holds the connector in snapped... but I thought the connector would hold ok. Guess I was wrong.

So I'm back on the road! Now to get the smell of gas off my hands... thanks for the ideas guys.