Brake Fluid question

is there a special brake fluid to use in a 335I convertable
the dealer gave me a pint free last time I went in but I dont think one pint will flush the whole system, I was thinking about doing it this weekend. its a 2007 with 43,000 miles and I doubt is have been changed

Hondo

Read your manual on type of brake fluid. It'll say in there.

unfortunately my car didnt come with a manual

guess I will just get more BMW brand fluid

Should also be on the brake fluid cover.

You want to use a DOT4 brake fluid. Do NOT use DOT5, it is incompatible with your system unless scupulously flushed first. You could use DOT3 but DOT 4 gives you a higher boiling point which is very good given it's a 335.
Get at least two pints, you'll need them for a complete flush.
You can buy the stuff in quarts, that's cheaper and better in the long run as long as you keep the cap on tightly. BEFORE you start the job make sure you can loosen all your bleeder screws. You don't want to find out after starting the job you can't properly bleed because you've got a jammed bleeder. A little shot of penetrating oil on each one is always a good idea.
Buy any national brand as long as it says DOT4 on the label.

ATE TYP200 is what I use.
comes in steel quart containers.
about 16 bucks

Originally Posted by hondo402000

unfortunately my car didnt come with a manual

An outrage and a crime against mankind.

What, you haven't Googled an E93 Manual?

FINE.

I did it for you and it's right here on Bimmerfest.

I am very pleased to do this for you.....but there may come a day, it may be tomorrow or many years may pass....on that day, I will ask a favor in return, and you must do me this favor.

Never go against the family, hondo.

Originally Posted by hondo402000

guess I will just get more BMW brand fluid

Like DSX says, any DOT4 fulfills BMW specification.

But how will you know when your line's completely flushed?

I'll tell you how: Use a diff colored fluid.

Don't get no easier'n that. And, hey, when comes time to bleed again, think amber.

Originally Posted by Orient330iNYC

ATE TYP200 is what I use.
comes in steel quart containers.
about 16 bucks

You can't do better. Boiling point well over 500F. I use it and alternate with the same stuff with a blue tint, called Super Blue I think. That way you know for sure when all the old fluid is out -by the color change. Very easy for those who flush before each track session and don't usually deal with discolored ( dark amber) brake fluid.

Pentosin is another reliable brand if only the very best will do. Also available in steel quarts. And gallons.

EDIT: Good call Cal, that's the stuff. Super Blue it is. Didn't see your post until after I put up mine.

Originally Posted by CALWATERBOY

An outrage and a crime against mankind.

What, you haven't Googled an E93 Manual?

FINE.

I did it for you and it's right here on Bimmerfest.

I am very pleased to do this for you.....but there may come a day, it may be tomorrow or many years may pass....on that day, I will ask a favor in return, and you must do me this favor.

Never go against the family, hondo.

Lets hope the favor is never the favor later asked in "The Godfather"! A very sad payback.

Originally Posted by DSXMachina

You can't do better. Boiling point well over 500F. I use it and alternate with the same stuff with a blue tint, called Super Blue I think. That way you know for sure when all the old fluid is out -by the color change. Very easy for those who flush before each track session and don't usually deal with discolored ( dark amber) brake fluid.

Pentosin is another reliable brand if only the very best will do. Also available in steel quarts. And gallons.

EDIT: Good call Cal, that's the stuff. Super Blue it is. Didn't see your post until after I put up mine.

just be careful with the superblue.... its technically not DOT4 fluid due to the color (and only the color, its the same fluid as typ200 but with dye). when i had my volvo, there was a guy on the boards that had a warranty claim denied due to using unapproved fluid-- he was on the hook for a clutch slave cylinder replacement.

Some complain that Super Blue ATE stains your reservoir. I just pressure bled my 335 E93 using Valvoline DOT 4 and the Super Blue didn't stain anything. You can see the color change to the honey color and the Bav Auto pressure bleeder worked excellent...
Very easy DIY...

Originally Posted by Orient330iNYC

ATE TYP200 is what I use.
comes in steel quart containers.
about 16 bucks

This one. Alternate with its blue variant every two years and you'll be super safe. For tracked cars I change once a year. Buy a motive bleed and it's an easy DIY

Out of warranty only who cares about a stained plastic cylinder

how about Castrol! Dot 4 I use that in my 71 Triumph TR6, be nice to have only that in my shop

Hondo

well on Sat I flushed the brake system, purchased the brake fluid from BMW only 4 dollars a pint, so not too bad, took me about 1 hour and only 3 pints to fully flush, I have a mighty vac that pulls a vacuum and sucks the fluid out from each caliper. first thing I did was suck all the fluid from the master cylinder and then fill it up with new and then start at the right rear wheel, then left rear, right front and left front. they was a definate difference in color. Next maybe the power steering fluid

Hondo

Originally Posted by hondo402000

well on Sat I flushed the brake system, purchased the brake fluid from BMW only 4 dollars a pint, so not too bad, took me about 1 hour and only 3 pints to fully flush, I have a mighty vac that pulls a vacuum and sucks the fluid out from each caliper. first thing I did was suck all the fluid from the master cylinder and then fill it up with new and then start at the right rear wheel, then left rear, right front and left front. they was a definate difference in color. Next maybe the power steering fluid

Hondo

Although I'm sure this got most of your fluid out, this is not the full procedure to bleed these cars. You need to use bmw software (There may be an alternative that I'm not aware of) To run the bleeding procedure. Basically what this does is cycle the fluid in the DSC control unit.

So is the DSC a closed circuit? and only open when in operation? If thats the case I could see how the fluid would bypass the DSC unit, and what does DSC stand for. All my other cars had ABS systems

but at least I got 90 percent of the fluid exchanged

Hondo

Originally Posted by aleks001

Although I'm sure this got most of your fluid out, this is not the full procedure to bleed these cars. You need to use bmw software (There may be an alternative that I'm not aware of) To run the bleeding procedure. Basically what this does is cycle the fluid in the DSC control unit.

Dynamic Stability Control?

You may be thinking of this ABS Pump procedure, useful if air gets way up in there.

And way up in there it's gotta go! I've disconnected the rear subframe brake lines and had 'em leak to completion, yet brakes were solid when bled at the wheels. Just sayin'.

No need to vac the master cyl - just add there w/Motive Power Brake Bleeder -- that'll do the flush. Makes it a 1 man job too.
__________________________________________________ _________________

POP QUIZ: What is brake fluid made of? You may notice it evaporates!



.

I believe the dsc computer module is attached to the abs pump itself. Anyways, so I don't become one of those guys that spreads false info, ill upload pics from the bentley manual. And hondo, I wouldn't worry about not doing this, I seriously doubt the dealer does it, hell, I'll be surprised if they don't just use a pump to just replace the fluid in the reservoir. Your procedure is more then enough imo.

Some pics , also i'm pretty sure there is fluid in the unit and its not just an issue of getting the air out, buy not 100%. Because when you disconnect the dsc lines doesn't some fluid come out?

thanks for the posting with the manual. I suck out all the old fluid in the master Cylinder first and replace it with new prior to start of bleeding all the wheels because I want to get ALL the old fluid out of the system. so by getting the old fluid out of the MC first and replacing with new it takes less time to purge the lines and Calipers

Hondo

No need to follow the DSC/ABS bleed procedure as long as no air is introduced into the system. Be careful sucking down the master cylinder too far before topping off. If you get air into the piston area of the cylinder your labor is going to really increase.

Originally Posted by DSXMachina

No need to follow the DSC/ABS bleed procedure as long as no air is introduced into the system. Be careful sucking down the master cylinder too far before topping off. If you get air into the piston area of the cylinder your labor is going to really increase.

Roger that & +1

Can't believe ya don't know what brake fluid is.

Originally Posted by Orient330iNYC

just be careful with the superblue.... its technically not DOT4 fluid due to the color (and only the color, its the same fluid as typ200 but with dye). when i had my volvo, there was a guy on the boards that had a warranty claim denied due to using unapproved fluid-- he was on the hook for a clutch slave cylinder replacement.

The bigger problem with Super Blue and TYP 200 is that neither is a low-viscosity fluid. ATE SL.6 is their DOT4 low-viscosity formulation and the only ATE fluid fully recommended for DSC-equipped cars. Pentosin DOT4 LV and Textar DOT4 PRO are alternatives.

Standard viscosity DOT4 fluids can slow the response time of DSC/ABS. It stands to reason the higher viscosity also may subject some components to increased stress/wear/risk of failure, which was probably their argument to deny the warranty claim.

http://www.ate-na.com/generator/www/...bf_sl6_us.html