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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 12-10-2012, 08:44 PM
nfakbc nfakbc is offline
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Mein Auto: 540i
Clutch switch bypass attempt fail, NEED HELP!!!!!

My car, 1997 540i 6 speed. Today I attempted to bypass my clutch safety switch. I pulled the connector off the switch and the switch literally fell apart in my hands. I looked online and others said to connect the violet/white wire and brown/black wires together which I did but now my car will not start.

I did notice when I cut and stripped the wires one of them had voltage going to it (I strip wires with my teeth, a habit I have not been able to break for years and felt some voltage) but now after checking with a multimeter none of the wires are hot. I checked all of my fuses, the ones under the cabin air filter, glove box, passenger floor and trunk and none of them are blown.

Could I have fried something in my failed attempt? When I turn on the key everything lights up as it should but when I go to crank the car over nothing happens. Any help would be greatly appreciated as this is my only car with the holidays coming up fast I am too short on cash to take the car to a mechanic.
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  #2  
Old 12-10-2012, 08:48 PM
edjack edjack is online now
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Mein Auto: '97 540i 6 speed
The "switch" is a Hall-effect device (three terminal). I defeated it by placing some shrink tubing over the switch to push the plunger all the way in.

Unless you know what the circuit needs, this is the safest way to defeat the switch.
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  #3  
Old 12-10-2012, 08:59 PM
cn90 cn90 is online now
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1+,

See the thread by 16valex:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...16valex&page=2
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  #4  
Old 12-10-2012, 09:04 PM
nfakbc nfakbc is offline
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That was my plan before removing the plug and the switch shattering in my hands. With the switch being a 3 wire switch (I believe it has some kind of potentiometer in it which I don't believe would work with 2 of the 3 wires cut and out of the circuit) could the 3rd wire be the live wire which I shorted out and fried something? If so any clue what module I might have damaged (I know these cars have a computer or module for pretty much everything!!!)
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Old 12-11-2012, 07:52 AM
cn90 cn90 is online now
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Buy a new switch, then tie it down.
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Old 12-11-2012, 07:59 AM
cn90 cn90 is online now
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Also,

Give this a try. Look at the diagram in post #13:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=365461
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  #7  
Old 12-11-2012, 11:52 PM
JasonSC540ia JasonSC540ia is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nfakbc View Post
I strip wires with my teeth, a habit I have not been able to break for years and felt some voltage.
"I felt voltage". Im sorry but thats funny.
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  #8  
Old 12-14-2012, 06:52 PM
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540iman 540iman is offline
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I am guessing that 12V goes to one wire when clutch is in and to the other wire when clutch is out. By tying all three together, you just are telling the car the clutch is in and out at the same time. If you can find voltage between one of the three wires and a totally separate ground with key in position #2, then try shorting this wire to one (only) of the remaining two wires at a time and try starting. If no crank, take hot wire to the remaining of the three wires ONLY and it should crank unless you have blown something.
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