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E34 (1989 - 1995)

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  #26  
Old 12-13-2012, 10:30 AM
Monsignor's Avatar
Monsignor Monsignor is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Newman271 View Post
Kelley Blue Book value: $11,300 - $12,600
Fuel economy (MPG): 19 - 20 city / 26 highway
Base engine: 3.5L 287 hp V6
Horsepower: 287 @ 6200 RPM
Just a question... How does a car that comes factory with 287hp and puts down 217 Whp factory only have 284whp after Nitrous? Sounds like you didn't put any type of supporting mods on before you threw NAWZZZ on. Im sure that little shot of what 75hp for 4 sec really gets your pecker wet huh?
Nitrous is nothing but compressed oxygen essentially. It tell the car to throw more gas is which is a function of the motor itself, aside from having colder plugs (which i do) nitrous can be used safely on any motor because a motor will not shoot more fuel into itself than it can handle. I'm sure you knew that. And the 284 is wheel hp before the spray, sweetheart. 287 is stock crank horsepower. Lets see you get 121 to the wheels in that thing without spray.

Apparently you know nothing of Z's. Stick to what you know. Impressing 14 year old boys or something.

Pig? lol. It'll destroy your E30. You must be the only ignorant son of b!tch to ever call a Z car a "pig." You realize you're in a forum of 3600lb german sedans, right? That word is offensive in these parts...

Yeah all the 14y/o boys love the G (whatever the fcuk that means)...







Quote:
Originally Posted by Newman271 View Post
I thought I said" good day" and take your way too powerful pig of a nissan to another forum posts
Not only are you retarded thinking I'd heed your advise. You look like a damn fool to all these people here you're asking for help from telling me to go to another forum. Keep on shoppin Chachi, you'll be hard pressed to find an ally here. Oh, and just to further shove your foot in your mouth...

http://my350z.com/forum/members/144191-1lightbrick.html

Quote:
Originally Posted by Newman271 View Post
people are putting down up to 500 hp down on a O-ringed block with arp studs. Im not looking for that much, not until next winter when I bore and stroke.
A) Too bad you're on a budget
B) Too bad you were only looking for 300hp
C) Too bad a chinese turbo wont do that
D) I wonder what boost gauge they're using.

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1995 525iA 250k mi
2006 325i/6 57k mi
2003 350Z 88k mi

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Last edited by Monsignor; 12-13-2012 at 11:16 AM.
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  #27  
Old 12-13-2012, 10:33 AM
Monsignor's Avatar
Monsignor Monsignor is offline
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Location: Pineapple Under the Sea
 
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You clearly have no business here. You dont drive an E34. You just have a motor that came in an E34.

Why dont you go bother some 6er guys and get 14 year old boys' peckers wet or whatever it is you said you do.

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1995 525iA 250k mi
2006 325i/6 57k mi
2003 350Z 88k mi

Instagram: @Titan_E34
Snapchat: Titan_E34

Last edited by Monsignor; 12-13-2012 at 11:14 AM.
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  #28  
Old 12-14-2012, 03:02 AM
MySatinDoll MySatinDoll is offline
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Mein Auto: 1995 e34 S52b32/5
Wow... Just wow...

HUGE Edit:
Wait, I just read your sig...

are you whatt18yahoo?

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1169079

Dayum that sig sounds real familiar to what Binnjammin on BF.C said to that guy.



But joe's right a m30's torque is mostly down low. They don't rev past 7k sweet spot being in the 3k-4.5k range.
A turbo application in a e30 when planned correctly and thoroughly will give it a good go.

But going up against a 400+ hp, 2200lb civic at a drag strip will not work well for you.

I mean I've given the business to a few cars in my M30b35/5. But that's been at rolls on the street and good driving skills.
ie. My friend has a amg E63. He asked me to race him once. I told him I have more sense and pride than to go up against him.
In the same token, he went up against a buddy's "Worked" is300 and got his arse handed to him.

Build it because you want something fun.
Research it so you can do it efficently
Withdraw it for it will clean out your bank account.

Good luck and don't crash.

Last edited by MySatinDoll; 12-14-2012 at 03:47 AM.
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  #29  
Old 12-14-2012, 05:07 AM
snowsled7 snowsled7 is offline
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I find that the sweet spot is over 4000 rpm in the M30, the torque peak is at 4200. I would agree that running an old 2 valve engine up to 7000 is probably not worth the necessary build on the bottom end to sustain those revs. Most turbo motors do not rev that high anyway.

Now I have ZERO love for the Z-car. I have driven them and just plain do not care for Japanese cars for anything other than appliances but, to each his own, and I am sure the one being discussed is plenty quick.

Wanting to race civic's? Well... have fun with that. I prefer road racing. You send that 400hp civic to my neck of the woods and see if it can keep up in the mountains with my stock M30 in the real world.

Really though, this belongs in the e30 forum. They have a long history of battling ricers. If that is your goal, those kids will have better advice than this forum, and it sounds like you NEED some advice.
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  #30  
Old 12-14-2012, 08:15 AM
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Newman271 Newman271 is online now
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Location: Cincinnati, OH
 
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Mein Auto: 99' 540i M-Sport
Quote:
Originally Posted by MySatinDoll View Post
Wow... Just wow...

HUGE Edit:
Wait, I just read your sig...

are you whatt18yahoo?

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1169079

Dayum that sig sounds real familiar to what Binnjammin on BF.C said to that guy.



But joe's right a m30's torque is mostly down low. They don't rev past 7k sweet spot being in the 3k-4.5k range.
A turbo application in a e30 when planned correctly and thoroughly will give it a good go.

But going up against a 400+ hp, 2200lb civic at a drag strip will not work well for you.

I mean I've given the business to a few cars in my M30b35/5. But that's been at rolls on the street and good driving skills.
ie. My friend has a amg E63. He asked me to race him once. I told him I have more sense and pride than to go up against him.
In the same token, he went up against a buddy's "Worked" is300 and got his arse handed to him.

Build it because you want something fun.
Research it so you can do it efficently
Withdraw it for it will clean out your bank account.

Good luck and don't crash.
I was trying to do the research here. To see if any of the common setups are any better than the rest. This is my 5th Bmw, and 2nd e30. I've always enjoyed a Bmw, they are a drivers car.
I know I won't beat the civic down a drag strip, he's got a lsd and slicks, I just didn't want to be embarrassed to run against him lol. I think more E30's should of came with the 3.5.
I've always wanted a quick bimmer. I've always just handled the suspension and brakes of all my previous bimmers. It's always fun when a yellow road sign says "30MPH corner" and you take it with ease at twice the speed. My car now has a good suspension set up, so I just want it quick now.

I've asked in the E30 forum before about it, and they directed me to this section.

I'll keep things updated with pictures, and in spring, a Dyno printout on the Forced Induction Post.
Thanks for those who don't have sand in their Vagina.
__________________
1999 540i M-Sport
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1985 335i
Black on Black coupe 5spd
R.I.P

1979 Trans Am 10th Anniversary
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  #31  
Old 12-14-2012, 11:40 AM
MySatinDoll MySatinDoll is offline
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Mein Auto: 1995 e34 S52b32/5
Quote:
Originally Posted by Newman271 View Post
I was trying to do the research here. To see if any of the common setups are any better than the rest. This is my 5th Bmw, and 2nd e30. I've always enjoyed a Bmw, they are a drivers car.
I know I won't beat the civic down a drag strip, he's got a lsd and slicks, I just didn't want to be embarrassed to run against him lol. I think more E30's should of came with the 3.5.
I've always wanted a quick bimmer. I've always just handled the suspension and brakes of all my previous bimmers. It's always fun when a yellow road sign says "30MPH corner" and you take it with ease at twice the speed. My car now has a good suspension set up, so I just want it quick now.

I've asked in the E30 forum before about it, and they directed me to this section.

I'll keep things updated with pictures, and in spring, a Dyno printout on the Forced Induction Post.
Thanks for those who don't have sand in their Vagina.
Ok well since you know a little about bimmers then I'll tell you what I know about boosting a m30.

First plan a budget roughly around 2500 to 5k. That will give you a modest setup with decent power without major modification.

Beef up your drivetrain, suspension, and brakes. Get a 25% locking diff (LSD) if it doesn't already have one.

Todd at TCD has a full turbo setup for 5k. It's probably the most complete turnkey system your going to find that is efficent and gives you decent power. Obviously you'll need to do the minor details but that's good for 300 to 400 if not more (not really sure)

If you are bargain hunting, the next suggestion would be a e23 745 turbo kit.
It's possible to hit high 200s to mid 300s rwhp but most of the choke will be at the turbo and other 20 + year old parts.
Plenty of people use this kit and build from it and get power but it's limited.
Todd sells a modified version of the k27 turbo for it but if your goal is 300rwhp then I'd just suggest to just rebuild the turbo and go with it.
Unfortunately you'll only find this setup used.

If your planning on piecing it together.
IMO go to revlimited or mye28.com. and review some builds and what people used to make power. I can sit here and explain tons of different m30 setups but it will take way too long.

The chinese knock off turbo comment Joe made was pretty much spot on.
Go with a garrett or holset turbo. For most BMW powerplants eat chinese turbos.

It is not necessary to remove the head or do any head work to get good power out of a m30b35. It can take roughly 12psi on stock internals with a modest turbo build.

You don't need the apr studs or mls gasket unless you plan to refresh the head.
Even then the APR studs are not completely necessary. If you do the refresh Just replace them with OEM Head bolts or Metric Blue bolts, replace the eccentrics and get rocker locks, do a valve adjustment and not remove the head. You'll be good to go.

My best suggestion above all is to read, research, read, and research again before attempting a turbo build.

I've been building and piecing my build together for about 2 years. Must of which I sold for more efficent items. My build at one point was 2500 in just parts not associated with the planned turbo setup. Now digging in I foresee it surpassing 4k. And my goal is only 350rwhp. (but it will be able to make more)

But by all means don't go into this lightly or cheap out on some of the necessary items.
Or you'll end up paying for it through the nose.

A after thought. If you don't already have the m30 engine. I'd suggest using a m50 or even putting a 885 head from a 87 325i on the eta block then boosting it.
This way your weight to power displacement will not be as great and you'll have a better choice of modern parts to go with. That's the down side of a m30b35.
Most of the parts for boosting a m30 will be NLA, used or have to be fabricated to boost a m30 properly.

Even though he and I ocassionally bumpheads on a personal level.
Jon Kensy aka urinemachine aka 5mail5nail5ive is probably a good person to speak to on m50 boosting.
You can find him on Bimmerforums.com.
but if your diehard on putting a M30 in your 325e then continue your research.

Last edited by MySatinDoll; 12-14-2012 at 11:52 AM.
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  #32  
Old 12-14-2012, 02:00 PM
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Newman271 Newman271 is online now
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Location: Cincinnati, OH
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 594
Mein Auto: 99' 540i M-Sport
Quote:
Originally Posted by MySatinDoll View Post
Ok well since you know a little about bimmers then I'll tell you what I know about boosting a m30.

First plan a budget roughly around 2500 to 5k. That will give you a modest setup with decent power without major modification.

Beef up your drivetrain, suspension, and brakes. Get a 25% locking diff (LSD) if it doesn't already have one.

Todd at TCD has a full turbo setup for 5k. It's probably the most complete turnkey system your going to find that is efficent and gives you decent power. Obviously you'll need to do the minor details but that's good for 300 to 400 if not more (not really sure)

If you are bargain hunting, the next suggestion would be a e23 745 turbo kit.
It's possible to hit high 200s to mid 300s rwhp but most of the choke will be at the turbo and other 20 + year old parts.
Plenty of people use this kit and build from it and get power but it's limited.
Todd sells a modified version of the k27 turbo for it but if your goal is 300rwhp then I'd just suggest to just rebuild the turbo and go with it.
Unfortunately you'll only find this setup used.

If your planning on piecing it together.
IMO go to revlimited or mye28.com. and review some builds and what people used to make power. I can sit here and explain tons of different m30 setups but it will take way too long.

The chinese knock off turbo comment Joe made was pretty much spot on.
Go with a garrett or holset turbo. For most BMW powerplants eat chinese turbos.

It is not necessary to remove the head or do any head work to get good power out of a m30b35. It can take roughly 12psi on stock internals with a modest turbo build.

You don't need the apr studs or mls gasket unless you plan to refresh the head.
Even then the APR studs are not completely necessary. If you do the refresh Just replace them with OEM Head bolts or Metric Blue bolts, replace the eccentrics and get rocker locks, do a valve adjustment and not remove the head. You'll be good to go.

My best suggestion above all is to read, research, read, and research again before attempting a turbo build.

I've been building and piecing my build together for about 2 years. Must of which I sold for more efficent items. My build at one point was 2500 in just parts not associated with the planned turbo setup. Now digging in I foresee it surpassing 4k. And my goal is only 350rwhp. (but it will be able to make more)

But by all means don't go into this lightly or cheap out on some of the necessary items.
Or you'll end up paying for it through the nose.

A after thought. If you don't already have the m30 engine. I'd suggest using a m50 or even putting a 885 head from a 87 325i on the eta block then boosting it.
This way your weight to power displacement will not be as great and you'll have a better choice of modern parts to go with. That's the down side of a m30b35.
Most of the parts for boosting a m30 will be NLA, used or have to be fabricated to boost a m30 properly.

Even though he and I ocassionally bumpheads on a personal level.
Jon Kensy aka urinemachine aka 5mail5nail5ive is probably a good person to speak to on m50 boosting.
You can find him on Bimmerforums.com.
but if your diehard on putting a M30 in your 325e then continue your research.
Thanks, yeah I priced as much as I could and I am up to 2700. I plan another 1500 for other odds and ends. Yeah I already have the M30. Im sending the head to get checked next week, I'll prolly have it mildly ported and stainless valves with springs, inexpensive for the most part. But bottom end im keeping stock for now. I'll keep everyone updated under the Forced Induction forum.
__________________
1999 540i M-Sport
Silver/Black
Still fresh and Minty

1985 335i
Black on Black coupe 5spd
R.I.P

1979 Trans Am 10th Anniversary
#16 of 5,683 made

KOI Import Parts-- 513-771-7777
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  #33  
Old 12-15-2012, 12:00 AM
Josh429er Josh429er is offline
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Soooooo do you have a map of your turbo? do you know what your using for a cam? getting these two things to match is probably the most important when your trying to make power. That and making sure its got fuel to match. But if your running some shirty side mount intercooler, shouldn't be hard sense youll loose 5 psi before its in the throttle body. oooohhhhh weeellllll.

I'm with ya joe. This is retarded. Hate the young kids who move past the civic to a Bimmer. This really doesn't belong on this forum...take it to the boost section.
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  #34  
Old 12-15-2012, 06:01 AM
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Newman271 Newman271 is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh429er View Post
Soooooo do you have a map of your turbo? do you know what your using for a cam? getting these two things to match is probably the most important when your trying to make power. That and making sure its got fuel to match. But if your running some shirty side mount intercooler, shouldn't be hard sense youll loose 5 psi before its in the throttle body. oooohhhhh weeellllll.

I'm with ya joe. This is retarded. Hate the young kids who move past the civic to a Bimmer. This really doesn't belong on this forum...take it to the boost section.
I haven't bought the turbo yet. I was asking questions earlier in the post about mounting and oil flow to the turbo. I plan on keeping the factory cam for now. That can be changed out quick and not at the top of the list for the turbo setup for now. Im buying the Miller Turbo Tuning kit. Injectors, Maf, and chip with a basic tune from Miller until I can get it tuned on the dyno. Not sure how I'd lose 5psi through very short intercooler piping. I ran a 12 sec DSM with the side mount intercooler with no problem. I plan on putting it about the stock location as the dsm just on my bimmer. I only plan on running about 10psi so less threat of Heat Soak. If I suspect it I'll just get the meth intercooler spray kit when I run it hard.
__________________
1999 540i M-Sport
Silver/Black
Still fresh and Minty

1985 335i
Black on Black coupe 5spd
R.I.P

1979 Trans Am 10th Anniversary
#16 of 5,683 made

KOI Import Parts-- 513-771-7777
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