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  #1  
Old 02-02-2014, 09:17 AM
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mj745 mj745 is offline
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Cmac, and anyone else very handy - TIPS WNTED

I'm stumped on how to get dip bars properly mounted onto my wall at home.

I got the ceiling mounted pull/chin-up bar pretty down packed, it's going to look like this photo for example:

http://fortikur.com/wp-content/uploa...hite-Roofs.jpg

How do I get bars wall mounted for dips and so that it can hold at least 225 lbs? I'm sure I'll have to give them anchors at the bottom at a 45 degree to the wall, but how I do that is the question. The bars I have in mind are the same iron bars used to make the ceiling mounted pull-up station.

What I had in mind was using a 1"-1.5" iron pipe (3' 9" length) attached to a flange bolted into a concrete wall. The pipes will be straight once screwed into the flanges, but how do I get them anchored to the wall from the bottom on a 45 degree angle? Sort of what a shelf bracket looks like.
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  #2  
Old 02-02-2014, 10:42 AM
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MatWiz MatWiz is offline
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Looking at how they do the window air conditioners. When I installed mine (a very big and heavy Friederich), the triangle shape support is connected to the AC housing (would be the sides of your bar) and the bottom where it's "connected" to the wall 8" below the AC, it's just resting on the wall. No screws. It does not move.

So you could just do those 2 triangles like the ones they use for a shelf, and the bottom is not important, but you can just bolt it down for added stability. The most important bolt will be the one that connects the bar to the wall. And the force of your weight would try to yank it straight out. That's the only one you need to worry about. Not the bar bending down.
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Last edited by MatWiz; 02-02-2014 at 10:44 AM.
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  #3  
Old 02-02-2014, 10:58 AM
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mj745 mj745 is offline
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That's actually a great idea Mat. Now you got me thinking
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  #4  
Old 02-02-2014, 11:28 AM
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Dave 330i Dave 330i is offline
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OK do what you want.
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Last edited by Dave 330i; 02-02-2014 at 11:31 AM.
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  #5  
Old 02-02-2014, 11:51 AM
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cmac2012 cmac2012 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MatWiz View Post
Looking at how they do the window air conditioners. When I installed mine (a very big and heavy Friederich), the triangle shape support is connected to the AC housing (would be the sides of your bar) and the bottom where it's "connected" to the wall 8" below the AC, it's just resting on the wall. No screws. It does not move.

So you could just do those 2 triangles like the ones they use for a shelf, and the bottom is not important, but you can just bolt it down for added stability. The most important bolt will be the one that connects the bar to the wall. And the force of your weight would try to yank it straight out. That's the only one you need to worry about. Not the bar bending down.
I think you're basically right, one's weight will push the 45s hard up against the wall/floor joint. The only thing I'd be worried about is them sliding sideways now and then if the force of one's weight were applied unevenly or from an odd angle. Could stress the pipe/flange joint. The threads are the weak link, half of the steel has been removed - they will break with enough force. If the floor and wall are both concrete (and if the wall's concrete I can only guess the floor is also) a quicko way to secure the 45 pipes would be to drill a tapcon at a 45 into the floor/wall joint and slip the pipes over them. Wouldn't take much strength to prevent sideways movement.

If one really wanted to go for full tilt overkill deluxe, could put a flange on the wall at the bottom with maybe one or two inches of pipe horizontal and then a 45 elbow going up, with pipe from that up to the top. Or rather you'd have to assemble it on the way down, the flange applied last, otherwise you'd need a union to put it all together and that would look weird and be in the way.

FWIW, going straight down to the floor from the end of your pipes would be more reliable than going with the 45. The flange mount is likely strong, but you're going to have your weight working on those connections over and over. Going straight to the floor doesn't really lose much space as the ends of the bars poking into the room will define where you can walk, going straight to the floor doesn't make that worse.
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Last edited by cmac2012; 02-02-2014 at 11:56 AM.
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  #6  
Old 02-03-2014, 07:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmac2012 View Post
I think you're basically right, one's weight will push the 45s hard up against the wall/floor joint. The only thing I'd be worried about is them sliding sideways now and then if the force of one's weight were applied unevenly or from an odd angle. Could stress the pipe/flange joint. The threads are the weak link, half of the steel has been removed - they will break with enough force. If the floor and wall are both concrete (and if the wall's concrete I can only guess the floor is also) a quicko way to secure the 45 pipes would be to drill a tapcon at a 45 into the floor/wall joint and slip the pipes over them. Wouldn't take much strength to prevent sideways movement.

If one really wanted to go for full tilt overkill deluxe, could put a flange on the wall at the bottom with maybe one or two inches of pipe horizontal and then a 45 elbow going up, with pipe from that up to the top. Or rather you'd have to assemble it on the way down, the flange applied last, otherwise you'd need a union to put it all together and that would look weird and be in the way.

FWIW, going straight down to the floor from the end of your pipes would be more reliable than going with the 45. The flange mount is likely strong, but you're going to have your weight working on those connections over and over. Going straight to the floor doesn't really lose much space as the ends of the bars poking into the room will define where you can walk, going straight to the floor doesn't make that worse.

That seems doable, and perhaps if I attached bars perpendicular to both the bottom and top to the dip bars sticking out, about 4 inches from the wall, this can correct any potential possible sideway movement?

Bolting to the floor has crossed my mind but it's not an official fitness room and will look too out of place. I use the room for writing/computer work, guest bedroom, and t.v. room. I'm going to put a real nice reclaimed wood atop of the dip station and use it for a printer shelf when it's not being used. The pull-up bars will be fine since it's a 10' ceiling and I'll only be dropping it 19 inches.

Last edited by mj745; 02-03-2014 at 07:58 AM.
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  #7  
Old 02-03-2014, 07:56 AM
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mj745 mj745 is offline
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Don't mind the inaccuracy of the image, it's only a 20 second sketch

The middle bar goes down on a 45 to a flange in the wall, but instead of having one like shown in my sketch, how about I put two? Would that be pretty solid enough? About 10 inches apart from the centre. (Width of dip bars = 30 inches)

The shaded areas are T Elbows.

Click image for larger version

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Last edited by mj745; 02-03-2014 at 08:26 AM.
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  #8  
Old 02-05-2014, 02:58 PM
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cmac2012 cmac2012 is offline
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It makes more sense to me now but the principles are pretty similar to what I had been thinking earlier. I thought you were going to have a 45 on each side going out to near the end of each dip bar. Would be way stronger that way. But your way may be plenty strong. The tricky part is knowing what length of pipes to use for the riser part. Could be hard to find standard lengths that will work for this. All but one perhaps. The 45 angled piece coming up will need to be a custom cut. And this stuff can be dicey because you need to estimate how much of the threaded end will go into the fitting, which will decide the ultimate working length.

Or another route, perhaps the easiest way to proceed would be to determine what length of 45 will rise to the height you want the bars to be at. You can, of course, raise the lower mount flange a bit to accomplish getting the height you want. When you put all of that in place, the lower pieces and 45 I mean, you can then see how far away from the wall the upper endpoint of the 45 ends up at. Or rather after it's hooked up to the T and the two short pieces moving out to the horizontal bars. You then stick the Ts on those two short pieces and determine how long the pieces going from those Ts to the wall flanges need to be. Might be easier to make those two the custom cut. If your first try is too long, you can take them back and get another inch or whatever of treads cut into it. With any luck some guy will do that for you gratis. Some hardware stores have the hand operated threading tools, but if you've not used them, it's another learning curve.

Of course the two final piece, the ones you grip, can be standard lengths, whatever works, or you could just cut the out threads off to get the length that's most workable. I think I'd go with black pipe, the kind that's used for gas line. Unlikely to rust and looks more stylish than the galvanized.
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Last edited by cmac2012; 02-05-2014 at 03:14 PM.
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  #9  
Old 02-07-2014, 07:41 PM
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Frank Rizzo Frank Rizzo is offline
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What are "dip bars"?

I'm handy. I replaced the headlight in my vacuum cleaner.

and...my brother is a welder.

.
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  #10  
Old 02-08-2014, 02:14 AM
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cmac2012 cmac2012 is offline
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I reckon those vintage vacuum cleaners have headlights.

In service of the common good, I found an image of some dip bars, which are not ice cream treats for nerds. This is sort of a shorty but it had the only included hottie I could find. C'mon, she's sorta, moderately hot:



Oh wait, my bad, here's another shot, more the standard dip bar design, with yet another fetching wench astride, so to speak:

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Last edited by cmac2012; 02-08-2014 at 05:31 PM.
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