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7 Series - E65 / E66 (2002 - 2008)
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  #301  
Old 01-05-2013, 10:57 AM
cmpcpro cmpcpro is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wjjklj View Post
I returned the Nissens to BMA autoparts because it did not have a drain plug. They sent me a brand new BEHR that did have the plug. Maybe they changed in the last month with design but mine has the drain. If they all don't have a drain now then I would just get the Nissens because it is about $100 cheaper then the BEHR.

I have been following this post every day and it is interesting. I have also been watching my temp the last few days while driving. My car runs between 102-105. It probably say 105 more often but it does fluctuate. It has been about 35-40 degrees F where I live. I once saw 107 at idle inside my garage but have not been able to duplicate that. I wondered if it was due to lack of good airflow and it being in a confined space. I plan on checking my hose temp with INPA this weekend. What menu do I actually go in to? Thanks.
Yeah I bought a Behr from BMW a couple weeks ago and returned it.. I thought it had a drain plug.. but anyway, this one was brand new from Behr, and it doesn't so I am assuming they have done without them now..
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  #302  
Old 01-05-2013, 11:01 AM
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So I opened the cap this morning and the expansion tank was near empty.. it seems so far the system is working correctly, it's getting all of the air out now, and running cool.. I haven't driven it long enough to tell the final idle temp, but I will let you guys know shortly.. As it stands the entire system is brand new, short the heater core and it's 3 hoses and of course the motor (Although water pumps are both brand new too).

SF: Yeah that URO pipe just looked cheap, I liked the AGA much better, and if I am going to rip the intake off and install it, I'll spend the extra money and do it once.

Last edited by cmpcpro; 01-05-2013 at 11:05 AM.
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  #303  
Old 01-05-2013, 11:40 AM
cmpcpro cmpcpro is offline
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Hey SF: I fired the car again this morning and that sound is not coming from the ALT. It's absolutely coming from the intake/cooling pipe area. I can put my ear right to it and hear it's coming from there.. when I put my head near running alt I don't hear anything from it.. Is there anything in the intake area that can cause this? Paper mentioned he had heard a few people have this noise when their coolant was low, and once filled to level it went away.. this did happen the instant I drained my system for the first time..
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  #304  
Old 01-05-2013, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by cmpcpro View Post
Hey SF: I fired the car again this morning and that sound is not coming from the ALT. It's absolutely coming from the intake/cooling pipe area. I can put my ear right to it and hear it's coming from there.. when I put my head near running alt I don't hear anything from it.. Is there anything in the intake area that can cause this? Paper mentioned he had heard a few people have this noise when their coolant was low, and once filled to level it went away.. this did happen the instant I drained my system for the first time..
Ok, if you think it's not alternator, not waterpump, not tensioners, so what is it??? Disa inside manifold??? It's not making this kind of noise. Remove belt and you won't hear anything.
It is you alt bc it's buried into the engine block so the sound will be heard from engine.
Want a bet???
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  #305  
Old 01-05-2013, 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by cmpcpro View Post
So I opened the cap this morning and the expansion tank was near empty.. it seems so far the system is working correctly, it's getting all of the air out now, and running cool.. I haven't driven it long enough to tell the final idle temp, but I will let you guys know shortly.. As it stands the entire system is brand new, short the heater core and it's 3 hoses and of course the motor (Although water pumps are both brand new too).

SF: Yeah that URO pipe just looked cheap, I liked the AGA much better, and if I am going to rip the intake off and install it, I'll spend the extra money and do it once.
Nah won't help,

Ok, it's gonna help: try some rain dances around like 3 times clockwise and 4 times counter, also make sure you sing that maya song))

For real get your inpa and tell us lower hose temp.
Look it's m62 engine with valley pan leak. Coolant pipe and heater core are stainless and look very nice!!! They are not aluminum crappy design which interacts with coolant chemically (hydrolysis) and kills that seals. So they knew about it in 94 at least. And they didn't want that pipe in the valley pan for a reason: if it leaks you would see it right away!
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  #306  
Old 01-05-2013, 12:56 PM
cmpcpro cmpcpro is offline
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Okay, wait, I dance 3 times clockwise AROUND the car? Should it be running? Same with the counter? It would probably help as much as what I've done so far, certainly alot cheaper.. No, I am not sad one bit on the grand I've spent replacing this cooling system.. I know the old one is still good, so I can sell it for a couple hundred bucks.. and not feel guilty.. and the new one did improve the cooling, maybe not by much, but it does take alot longer to heat up now.. still haven't driven it enough to see if filling the expansion tank helped but I'm sure it wont..

One thing everyone should go out and check right now, is when I replaced my radiator there was a horendous amount of crap inbetween the radiator and condenser.. I mean it was loaded full of crap.. I am sure that has got to help cleaning it out.. The worst part is you'll never know it's there or see it until you take the top brace off.. it's only a few minutes to take off so I would check people!
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  #307  
Old 01-05-2013, 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by cmpcpro View Post
Okay, wait, I dance 3 times clockwise AROUND the car? Should it be running? Same with the counter? It would probably help as much as what I've done so far, certainly alot cheaper.. No, I am not sad one bit on the grand I've spent replacing this cooling system.. I know the old one is still good, so I can sell it for a couple hundred bucks.. and not feel guilty.. and the new one did improve the cooling, maybe not by much, but it does take alot longer to heat up now.. still haven't driven it enough to see if filling the expansion tank helped but I'm sure it wont..

One thing everyone should go out and check right now, is when I replaced my radiator there was a horendous amount of crap inbetween the radiator and condenser.. I mean it was loaded full of crap.. I am sure that has got to help cleaning it out.. The worst part is you'll never know it's there or see it until you take the top brace off.. it's only a few minutes to take off so I would check people!
Yeah mine was also dirty. Simply remove it, use vacuum cleaner and that's it. But still even with dirty ass radiator it still won't go higher than 105.
Last week I saw 06 750i and auxiliary fan would turn on at 101- so new DME opens up tstat even earlier.
So they knew about problems and tried to prevent it. So that's why face lifted models last longer.
Ps. Now imagine how many ppl drive their e65 with 107C thinking they are ok bc of no leaks, so they keep replacing alternators, all gaskets , trannies.

Last edited by SFbay; 01-05-2013 at 01:20 PM.
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  #308  
Old 01-05-2013, 01:48 PM
cmpcpro cmpcpro is offline
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Could my alt be overheating and heating up everything?
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  #309  
Old 01-05-2013, 01:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmpcpro View Post
Could my alt be overheating and heating up everything?

Your rain dance didn't work ?

May I suggest Fairy dust or better yet
Tinkerbell herself to help solve the problem .


Sorry I couldn't resist the joking around
With you LoL

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  #310  
Old 01-05-2013, 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by cmpcpro View Post
Could my alt be overheating and heating up everything?
Sure it has nuclear substance inside so when it's too old it starts thermodynamic reaction which heats up not the engine only, but everything around within 5.34 mls!
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  #311  
Old 01-05-2013, 03:30 PM
cmpcpro cmpcpro is offline
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Sure it has nuclear substance inside so when it's too old it starts thermodynamic reaction which heats up not the engine only, but everything around within 5.34 mls!
Actually, it's funny you say that SF.. the other night I was watching some TV, and about to dose off and I got a knock at the door.. I opened the door and there was about thirty townspeople.. the plant had gone down and evidently my alternator had a capably sized reactor in it to power the town.. so I am thinking that may have sent her over the edge..

Ok, enough fun, time for the UPDATE:

I topped up the coolant as last night after filling and driving for ten minutes or so it got enough air out of the system to bring the level below the MIN by a good bit.. I filled it back to MAX, and this time I placed all the engine covers back on, just because I was tired of looking at them and I figured I would see if they helped with cooling, even though I figured they wouldn't.. System runs even better than last night.. It now runs at about 98/100 at all times.. for the first twenty minutes of driving if I start getting into start and stop traffic it will slowly go up to 105, and once there it will drop down now like usual but instead of dropping to 103, it will drop down to 99, and stay there, and drive around 99/100.. if I keep driving it will stay, if I come to a stop it goes back up to 105 slowly, and then back down to 103, and over and over.. after MUCH stopping it will stay at 105 longer and longer, before it goes back down to 103.. then it will go to 105 and stay, and then 106/107/108.. but when I start moving it goes instantly almost back down to 105..

It's def. better than last night pre-air removal, so I am hoping tomorrow morning I can get even more air out, and maybe I'll get lucky, but I doubt it, I never do.. I am thinking though, if it's not coolant pipe it may be my fan.. only thing that makes sense as to why it only heats up at slow speeds/stopped..

Also I talked to Paper on the phone the whole drive, he was driving too.. His car runs constantly around 98, and if he comes to a stop it won't go higher than 100 and it goes right back down to 99.. he checked his lower hose and it felt warm, but nowhere near the upper, so I dunno! I am lost!
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  #312  
Old 01-05-2013, 03:32 PM
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i applaud all the work you've done so far but you know the items left that you haven't replaced
either way i think we've come to an understanding that 105C isn't worth the leaky engine gaskets and seals, the jerky tranny, the tranny gaskets and seals, the alternators (for water cooled) etc - etc - etc

btw how much have you put in so far? you should be keeping track of max system capacity and what you've added, thats how you will know for sure you have a leak if all else fails visibly ;p
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Last edited by 745iguy; 01-05-2013 at 03:35 PM.
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  #313  
Old 01-05-2013, 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by cmpcpro View Post
Actually, it's funny you say that SF.. the other night I was watching some TV, and about to dose off and I got a knock at the door.. I opened the door and there was about thirty townspeople.. the plant had gone down and evidently my alternator had a capably sized reactor in it to power the town.. so I am thinking that may have sent her over the edge..

Ok, enough fun, time for the UPDATE:

I topped up the coolant as last night after filling and driving for ten minutes or so it got enough air out of the system to bring the level below the MIN by a good bit.. I filled it back to MAX, and this time I placed all the engine covers back on, just because I was tired of looking at them and I figured I would see if they helped with cooling, even though I figured they wouldn't.. System runs even better than last night.. It now runs at about 98/100 at all times.. for the first twenty minutes of driving if I start getting into start and stop traffic it will slowly go up to 105, and once there it will drop down now like usual but instead of dropping to 103, it will drop down to 99, and stay there, and drive around 99/100.. if I keep driving it will stay, if I come to a stop it goes back up to 105 slowly, and then back down to 103, and over and over.. after MUCH stopping it will stay at 105 longer and longer, before it goes back down to 103.. then it will go to 105 and stay, and then 106/107/108.. but when I start moving it goes instantly almost back down to 105..

It's def. better than last night pre-air removal, so I am hoping tomorrow morning I can get even more air out, and maybe I'll get lucky, but I doubt it, I never do.. I am thinking though, if it's not coolant pipe it may be my fan.. only thing that makes sense as to why it only heats up at slow speeds/stopped..

Also I talked to Paper on the phone the whole drive, he was driving too.. His car runs constantly around 98, and if he comes to a stop it won't go higher than 100 and it goes right back down to 99.. he checked his lower hose and it felt warm, but nowhere near the upper, so I dunno! I am lost!
Every time you step on gas it opens up the tstat. When it's idling DME does not open it, so you can see real way your tstat operates.
Warm or hot it depends on your skin receptors and bla bla
Connect inpa and get exact temp from lower hose.
The more you drive your car like this the more damage you make

Last edited by SFbay; 01-05-2013 at 03:39 PM.
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  #314  
Old 01-05-2013, 03:50 PM
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So what is the correct temperature? when car is not cool. normal driving.
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  #315  
Old 01-05-2013, 03:54 PM
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So what is the correct temperature? when car is not cool. normal driving.
If it always stays at 105 when driving its no good.
Usually test it when idling when it's fully warmed up:
Correct way it operates
105-aux fan-103
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  #316  
Old 01-05-2013, 04:03 PM
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ok thx. cause i changed my cooling pipe for the bimmerpipe kit. water pump. and saw my temp @105c on idle drops to 100-102 when driving. so i guess its normal.
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  #317  
Old 01-05-2013, 04:51 PM
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ok thx. cause i changed my cooling pipe for the bimmerpipe kit. water pump. and saw my temp @105c on idle drops to 100-102 when driving. so i guess its normal.
Does it drop when idling or when standing in traffic to 103 with aux fan on??
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  #318  
Old 01-05-2013, 04:57 PM
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Does it drop when idling or when standing in traffic to 103 with aux fan on??
when i'm at a light it goes to 105 if just light to light local driving it drops to 103. if i get on the park way it drops to 100-102.
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  #319  
Old 01-05-2013, 05:01 PM
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when i'm at a light it goes to 105 if just light to light local driving it drops to 103. if i get on the park way it drops to 100-102.
Usually 750 won't go higher than 102C, even if I drive it rough and stop and goish and it never showed me 105. But as long as it is 100-102 when idling is good enough.
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  #320  
Old 01-05-2013, 05:02 PM
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do i need to bleed the system? if so how?
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  #321  
Old 01-05-2013, 07:36 PM
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If it always stays at 105 when driving its no good.
Usually test it when idling when it's fully warmed up:
Correct way it operates
105-aux fan-103
Ok I just got home from a decent drive. The car stayed between 102-105. When I got home at idle it went to 107. I hooked up INPA and here are the screen shots. Bottom hose readings are not consistent. What does this mean? Internal leak? Need coolant AGA pipe? Thanks for looking at this. All hoses, water pump, thermostat, and radiator replaced in the last 2 months.
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  #322  
Old 01-05-2013, 07:38 PM
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  #323  
Old 01-05-2013, 08:14 PM
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Welcome to the club!!!!
It's bad. 30C is cold. You need aga ASAP.
Also your MAF is prob dirty bc it uses too much air, should be around 13-14 when idling.

Last edited by SFbay; 01-05-2013 at 08:41 PM.
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  #324  
Old 01-05-2013, 08:15 PM
cmpcpro cmpcpro is offline
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Originally Posted by wjjklj View Post
Ok I just got home from a decent drive. The car stayed between 102-105. When I got home at idle it went to 107. I hooked up INPA and here are the screen shots. Bottom hose readings are not consistent. What does this mean? Internal leak? Need coolant AGA pipe? Thanks for looking at this. All hoses, water pump, thermostat, and radiator replaced in the last 2 months.
So it looks like we are in the exact same spot.. Driving I am between 101-105 and if I idle for too long (not long at all) it will go to 107.. It seems like when your tstat is around 105 and opening your lower hose temp of 69 is good.. then when the car gets hotter and goes up the lower hose goes down, as I am guessing it's not opening.. so if they designed the fan to go on by the lower hose then this system falls apart when whatever is causing this issue to happen happens..

EDIT: May I ask why you replaced your entire cooling system too? How did you bleed coolant? Are you losing any coolant? What is your level at now?

For the guy who asked what I have spent, I am right around 1 grand so far.. None of it seemed to be bad, but the new stuff def. runs cooler, and more flow.. so as soon as I figure out my issue I believe it will run great.. plus now I can sell my old cooling system and know it's fine.. Also, at one grand that is all wholesale prices.. Radiator is $400-something I paid $250 out the door, hoses were $175, I paid $78, and so on.. thermostat was $100 I paid $55.. so at retail I would have probably spent near two grand.

Last edited by cmpcpro; 01-05-2013 at 08:18 PM.
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  #325  
Old 01-05-2013, 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by rideme2 View Post
do i need to bleed the system? if so how?
No, no need it should bleed itself,
Connect inpa and check lower hose temp after 20-30mins idling after driving.
If it stays at 65-70C it's all good.
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