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F10 / F11 (2011 - Current)
The new chapter in the highly successful story of the BMW 5 Series Sedan (F10) and wagon (F11)

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  #1  
Old 07-20-2010, 06:41 PM
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TJPark01 TJPark01 is offline
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DIY Oil Change F10 N55

1100 miles, time for a oil change.
Parts
* Fully Synthetic Oil 7 Quarts BMW High Performance Full Synthetic 5W30* (BMW P/N: 07 51 0 017 866), Mobil 1 0W40, or Castrol Syntec European Formula 0W30.
* Oil Filter (BMW P/N: 11 42 7 566 327) - Comes with 2 o-ring washers (1 big black, 1 small green), and 1 copper crush washer.
* Oil Filter Wrench, there are several on the market. I used my hand but this might be too hard for you paper pushers.
* Floor Jack (I used 2) with jack stands
* Oil Drain Pan.
* 17 mm socket (1/2" drive wrench).
* Torque Wrench
* Rags / paper towels.
* Disposable rubber gloves.
* Funnel.
* Needle nose pliers.
* Goggles.
* Beer for after.

Make sure oil is at operating temp before doing this.
1. On a level surface, engage parking brake and chock rear wheels
2. Lift front of car, I used two floor jacks with plastic pads to keep from damaging plastic jack points on the F10.
3. Use jacks stands in case floor jacks malfunction (this is VERY IMPORTANT) Never get under a car without proper safety backup.
4. Remove small bolt that holds trap door in place, remove trap door.
5. Using 17mm socket and wrench loosen drain plug. (Bolt faces down, so no mess with angle draining)
6. Lower car back down to ensure even oil draining. This will take a while, I made a sandwich during the time.
7. Remove oil filter, I did it by hand but if your kung fu grip isn't strong enough buy the filter wrench. With needle nose pliers remove green gasket and large black gasket on oil filter housing. Pull oil filter out. Install new filter, the writing was facing out or down. Put new gaskets on the filter housing. I soaked the new filter in a little oil and rubbed some oil on the new gaskets. I sucked out all the residual oil in the filter seat with a turkey baster. Screw filter back into the base. Match the green alignment marks (thanks for that Dingolfing!)
8. Jack Car back up, place jacks stands in position again, make sure the rear chocks haven't moved around. Put copper crush washer onto new bolt, put a little oil on the threads of the bolt, and tighten bolt back by hand at first then use the 17mm socket and torque the bolt back to 25nm or about 20lbs/ft, don't over tighten.
9. Put trap door back in place (or leave open to check for leaks later, I skipped this as I am confident in my DIY skills, if you're not, triple check everything).
10. Place car back on level ground, and fill with 7 qts of oil. I list the 3 grades and brands above because they are the most common in N. America and can be found easily, don't send me PM's about how great Amsoil or Redline is, most people don't want to deal with the hassle of getting that stuff.
11. Drive car around until oil level appears on IDrive (this took forever, and pissed me off. My kingdom for a dipstick!!!)
12. Bask in your glory by consuming beer or adult beverage of choice.

Castrol Syntec European Formula 0W30
BMW-5-Series-F10-DIY-Oil-Change_1.jpg

chock rear wheels
BMW-5-Series-F10-DIY-Oil-Change_2.jpg

I used two floor jacks with plastic pads to keep from damaging plastic jack points on the F103.
BMW-5-Series-F10-DIY-Oil-Change_4.jpg

Use jacks stands in case floor jacks malfunction (this is VERY IMPORTANT) Never get under a car without proper safety backup.
BMW-5-Series-F10-DIY-Oil-Change_5.jpg

Remove small bolt that holds trap door in place, remove trap door.
BMW-5-Series-F10-DIY-Oil-Change_6.jpg

5. Using 17mm socket and wrench loosen drain plug. (Bolt faces down, so no mess with angle draining)
BMW-5-Series-F10-DIY-Oil-Change_7.jpg

BMW-5-Series-F10-DIY-Oil-Change_8.jpg

BMW-5-Series-F10-DIY-Oil-Change_9.jpg

I sucked out all the residual oil in the filter seat with a turkey baster.
BMW-5-Series-F10-DIY-Oil-Change_10.jpg

BMW-5-Series-F10-DIY-Oil-Change_11.jpg

Match the green alignment marks (thanks for that Dingolfing!)
BMW-5-Series-F10-DIY-Oil-Change_12.jpg

BMW-5-Series-F10-DIY-Oil-Change_13.jpg

Early and often for the first year. I own this car, it's not rented.:
Planned schedule:
Total Vehicle Mileage
1. 1,200 Miles (Owner)
2. 7,500 miles (Owner)
3. 15,000 miles (Dealer)
4. 22,500 miles (Owner)
5. 30,000 miles (Dealer)

Last edited by TJPark01; 07-21-2010 at 05:10 PM.
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  #2  
Old 07-20-2010, 07:56 PM
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quackbury quackbury is offline
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Very, very nice write-up!
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  #3  
Old 07-20-2010, 09:00 PM
bobr2001 bobr2001 is offline
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Exellent! Thanks a bunch.
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  #4  
Old 07-21-2010, 08:04 AM
CC Brown CC Brown is offline
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Wow, this was such a good write up it makes me want to change my oil right now!

I want to have my oil changed after 2000 miles then I was going to follow maintenace schedule but I do plan on keeping my car for at least 10 years. I always wonder if I should change it sooner than BMW guidelines. I have a MB S430 that has had the oil service about every 12000 and it has never used an oil after 93,000. I am getting my first BMW next month and from what I have read it seems they use more oil than other cars. I wonder if that is how they are driven or the long oil changes!

Last edited by CC Brown; 07-21-2010 at 08:10 AM.
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  #5  
Old 07-21-2010, 10:16 AM
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TJPark01 TJPark01 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CC Brown View Post
Wow, this was such a good write up it makes me want to change my oil right now!
I want to have my oil changed after 2000 miles then I was going to follow maintenace schedule but I do plan on keeping my car for at least 10 years. I always wonder if I should change it sooner than BMW guidelines. I have a MB S430 that has had the oil service about every 12000 and it has never used an oil after 93,000. I am getting my first BMW next month and from what I have read it seems they use more oil than other cars. I wonder if that is how they are driven or the long oil changes!
If I was leasing this car I wouldn't be doing this, but I bought this car. The oil and filter cost be $50. The car stickered for 70k. It's cheap insurance. Say in the long run it doesn't really matter either way. OK, I'll buy that argument, but:
* it's cheap insurance and it can't hurt and gives me peace of mind.
*You can control every aspect of parts being used and you know it's being done correctly.
* It's something to do on a Sunday afternoon: "Relax all right. My old man is a television repairman. He's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it."
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  #6  
Old 07-21-2010, 10:26 AM
Hasek9339 Hasek9339 is offline
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hey where did you find that Euro formula oil?
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  #7  
Old 07-21-2010, 10:31 AM
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TJPark01 TJPark01 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hasek9339 View Post
hey where did you find that Euro formula oil?
I got it at Autozone, it's on sale this month. Not all of them have it, but the bigger ones do. Pepboys also carries it. All the Pepboys I have seen carry GC (German Castrol).
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  #8  
Old 07-21-2010, 04:52 PM
Wagons_Rock Wagons_Rock is offline
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Jack stands

Great post.

I'm on same oil change schedule (1/2 me and 1/2 BMW) and use ramps to get the car up.

My question is about jack stands: how can one transfer weight from a floor jack to a jack stand? I only have one floor jack. From your photo's it seems like the jack stands are underneath the rocker panel, in case the car falls, but not bearing any weight.

Mark
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  #9  
Old 07-21-2010, 05:09 PM
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TJPark01 TJPark01 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wagons_Rock View Post
Great post.

I'm on same oil change schedule (1/2 me and 1/2 BMW) and use ramps to get the car up.

My question is about jack stands: how can one transfer weight from a floor jack to a jack stand? I only have one floor jack. From your photo's it seems like the jack stands are underneath the rocker panel, in case the car falls, but not bearing any weight.

Mark
The third picture is misleading, I took it off. This first picture is more accurate. The second picture is from underneath, (sorry for the rotated pic, can't seem to fix it)
Technically you should transfer the weight of the car to the jack stands, but I left the two floor jacks hold the weight of the car, then placed floor jacks pressed underneath the rocker panels. I also had a third jackstand under the car at what I believe to be a jack point but wasn't sure.
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Last edited by TJPark01; 07-21-2010 at 05:13 PM.
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  #10  
Old 09-25-2010, 09:13 AM
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Stevarino Stevarino is offline
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Great write up

I am going to go buy a turkey baster for my next oil filter change to get the residual oil out of the bottom. Great idea!

I always loosen the oil filter and oil filler cap before I remove the drain plug for a reason I forget.
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  #11  
Old 09-25-2010, 01:10 PM
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TJPark01 TJPark01 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stevarino View Post
I am going to go buy a turkey baster for my next oil filter change to get the residual oil out of the bottom. Great idea!

I always loosen the oil filter and oil filler cap before I remove the drain plug for a reason I forget.
I think I read some where of someone getting sprayed with oil by removing the filter housing cap before removing the oil. I think removing the oil filler cap is fine, but I would remove the oil filter housing cap last just in case there is some built up pressure.
I'm pretty sure no one at the dealership is going to remove that last bit of oil in the housing. I'm also prety sure they wouldn't bother pre-soaking the new filter with 1/2 quart of fresh oil either. Just a hunch.
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  #12  
Old 09-25-2010, 01:30 PM
mujjuman mujjuman is offline
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That's great but don't you have the maintenance plan included?
Also it's easier to change the oil from the top using a mityvac on BMWs because the filter is on top too.


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Old 09-25-2010, 01:40 PM
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raleedy raleedy is offline
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A waste of time, money and resources.
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Old 09-25-2010, 01:47 PM
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A waste of time, money and resources.
If it gives the OP peace of mind, who are we to criticize, its his time, his money, go for it!
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  #15  
Old 09-25-2010, 01:55 PM
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If it gives the OP peace of mind, who are we to criticize, its his time, his money, go for it!
I think he means flying around in that plane.
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Old 09-25-2010, 02:08 PM
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gregb10 gregb10 is offline
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I personally wouldn't change the oil myself, but at the same time wouldn't criticize anyone who chooses to do so, to each their own.

My feeling is that the way new engines are designed, it is not necessary, but it certainly doesn't hurt.


However, I do spend time in the winter working ona restoration project on my 1986 Sea Ray sundacer 310 when its out of the water.
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Old 09-25-2010, 05:31 PM
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I think he means flying around in that plane.
Well, that, too, for sure.
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  #18  
Old 05-22-2011, 09:49 AM
mujjuman mujjuman is offline
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Originally Posted by mujjuman View Post
That's great but don't you have the maintenance plan included?
Also it's easier to change the oil from the top using a mityvac on BMWs because the filter is on top too.


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im an idiot... i didnt realize that N55's dont have the dipstick.

anyway, great DIY.
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Old 05-22-2011, 10:33 AM
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bmw_n00b13 bmw_n00b13 is offline
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Sweet. Glad to see that you can still DIY this stuff! Often all I hear is how the dealer is the only one who can tell the computer to do X!

Just did a change on my friend's M62 ; mobil 1 0w40. After only 7500km it was not as thin at cold temperatures as it should be. I definitely don't trust ANY oil for as long as BMW says it does, as posted above it's $50 into a 70k car. My 2 from the used car peanut gallery.
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  #20  
Old 05-22-2011, 12:53 PM
Glock 32 Glock 32 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stevarino View Post
I am going to go buy a turkey baster for my next oil filter change to get the residual oil out of the bottom. Great idea!

I always loosen the oil filter and oil filler cap before I remove the drain plug for a reason I forget.
The reason is to prevent a vacum and allow air in which will allow the oil to drain (flow properly).

Like when you plug the end of your straw with soda in it...

Last edited by Glock 32; 05-22-2011 at 12:54 PM.
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  #21  
Old 05-22-2011, 04:14 PM
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Excellent post with excellent photos and explanation. Whether or not it's worth it to change the oil every 7500 miles is up to the owner. I've only had 4 BMW's (owned every one of them...no leases) and have always followed the BMW maintenance procedures at no additional costs to myself and have never had an engine related problem. I usually sell them after 4 years and buy another one. My concern with owner-performed oil changes are, if you make an error and forget a washer, apply incorrect torque to the filter assembly, or some other minor error, and then lose all the oil in the engine, the expense of repair or engine replacement will be on the owner. If BMW screws it up, the expense will be on them and it will be repaired or replaced under warranty. For me, I'd rather spend an extra $100 once a year and let them do it if I wanted an extra (non-warranted) oil change. That leaves me a couple of extra hours of free-time that would otherwise be used to change the oil to consume more beer.
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  #22  
Old 05-23-2011, 09:57 AM
MikeTerp MikeTerp is offline
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Good post. I follow much the same maintenance plan with my E90 (N52). As far as extra changes being a "waste of resources". Maybe - and maybe if you lease and get rid of the car every few years. However, there are actually some of us who buy BMWs and keep them for a very long time. I enjoy doing these changes and other minor maintenance (filters, etc) myself, and have never considered them a waste. I had my oil analyzed after about 7000 miles, and the verdict was the the oil's additives were still functional, but their projected limit was about 3000 more miles. This was BMW oil. So I'll keep doing my own "mid-cycle" oil/filter changes and smile while doing them - and keep my car a long time.
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  #23  
Old 05-25-2011, 09:20 PM
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lovers535xi lovers535xi is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by w5lx View Post
Excellent post with excellent photos and explanation. Whether or not it's worth it to change the oil every 7500 miles is up to the owner. I've only had 4 BMW's (owned every one of them...no leases) and have always followed the BMW maintenance procedures at no additional costs to myself and have never had an engine related problem. I usually sell them after 4 years and buy another one. My concern with owner-performed oil changes are, if you make an error and forget a washer, apply incorrect torque to the filter assembly, or some other minor error, and then lose all the oil in the engine, the expense of repair or engine replacement will be on the owner. If BMW screws it up, the expense will be on them and it will be repaired or replaced under warranty. For me, I'd rather spend an extra $100 once a year and let them do it if I wanted an extra (non-warranted) oil change. That leaves me a couple of extra hours of free-time that would otherwise be used to change the oil to consume more beer.
I lean towards this route.
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  #24  
Old 05-26-2011, 10:47 PM
yogi799 yogi799 is offline
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Music to my ears! F10 and DIY in the same sentence!!! YEAH!!!!
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  #25  
Old 01-19-2013, 11:50 AM
GKofTX GKofTX is offline
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Thanks for the tips. Just changed the break-in oil at 1200 miles in my 2013 535i. I know I didn't need it, but I'm kinda an old guy and I've always done this. I'll try your schedule of 7500 miles and 15,000 miles, but I'll probably feel guilty at about 3000 or 5000. Hey, where's the dip stick?
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