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X5 E70 (2007 - 2013)
E70 BMW X5 produced between 2007 and 2013. Discuss the E70 X5 with other BMW owners here.

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  #1  
Old 09-16-2014, 05:20 PM
donutlou donutlou is offline
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X5 only one hood latch releases

Hi,
So I have an issue, when I try and pop the hood of my wife's 2007 x5 only one latch (drivers side) releases. Any one have any ideas on how to get the hood open? It's a 4.8 and of course it is calling for oil now also. It's a pissa!
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  #2  
Old 09-16-2014, 06:31 PM
PAX5 PAX5 is offline
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Try pushing down, gently, on the hood in the area of the latch on the passenger side, using a folded towel, while someone pulls the hood release.

Once released, clean latching mechanism and lubricate.
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  #3  
Old 09-16-2014, 06:33 PM
donutlou donutlou is offline
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Thanks pax I'll give it a go tomorrow am.


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  #4  
Old 09-16-2014, 06:37 PM
PAX5 PAX5 is offline
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Originally Posted by donutlou View Post
Thanks pax I'll give it a go tomorrow am.


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OK, let us know if it worked!
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  #5  
Old 09-17-2014, 02:21 PM
donutlou donutlou is offline
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I tried it out and it still wouldn't unlatch. I'm wondering if the cable snapped? Not sure how that could happen though. I've been trying to find photos of the engine compartment to see how they are run.
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  #6  
Old 09-17-2014, 05:50 PM
PAX5 PAX5 is offline
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I don't think the cable broke, it is steel. It could have detached itself, but then the pull handle should move freely and without much resistance.

I would still try to push down on the area of the hood where the latch is, while someone gently pulls on the hood release, not just once, but back and forth, each time at the exact moment that you push down on the hood.

If that doesn't work, I don't know what to suggest. I tried looking through the kidney grille area on mine for access, but no go ... radiator is in the way.

Maybe from underneath the car, if you know where and how to hook into the latch mechanism ...?
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  #7  
Old 01-22-2015, 02:31 PM
lpcapital lpcapital is offline
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Any update on this? A member on the other forum is having the same issue.

In particular: how do you get the hood open? and what was the issue?
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  #8  
Old 11-20-2015, 07:21 AM
clinkinfo clinkinfo is offline
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Did anyone every come up with a solution? The e70 does not have the cable running in the front of the radiator and like others, I don't see a way to gain access to the second latch to release it!?!

I'm having the EXACT same problem!
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  #9  
Old 11-23-2015, 08:44 AM
clinkinfo clinkinfo is offline
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so unfortunately I now understand why none of the e70 threads with hood problems ever come back with a solution. I am going to tell you up front, this problem is genuinely a nightmare. but I'm going to followup with how I did it so the next person has a head start and can save some time.

so I had the exact same problem, the passenger side latch was stuck. Nothing I did would release it, obviously there was a failure in a cable or latch. So like you, I started watching BMW hood release videos and started by taking the grill out, like most videos suggest. HOWEVER, in BMW's infinite wisdom, what you realize in the e70 is the latch mechanism was moved BEHIND the radiator, so you don't have access to simply "pop" the latch with a tool.

So I called a couple dealers and spoke with a few techs to see if they could give me a hint as to how to gain access. Funny enough, both said the same thing "oh man, e70, you're screwed". They went on to say thee's no procedure, its just a matter of removing parts until you can get some type of access to do something. They indicated it could take a full day depending on where the failure is....great.

They did however give me the hint that if you remove the drivers side wheel and shrouding you can gain access to the two cables and the junction box connecting them to the handle in the car. This was in fact the case. If you look at the photo, you can see the cables along the frame when you look underneath and up. I was able to grab the junction box and cables with vice grips and pull. If you happen to have a broken cable from the handle to the box, this method would release the hood. Of course, this was not my problem and in the end, access to the cables and box was completely useless because my release was actually broken (or cable) and not responding to the cable pull.




I did end up taking off the passenger side wheel as well along with the plastic lining. Unfortunately, there was nothing of use on that side for me, it was way too tight and didn't give me any access to the latch. that was a big waste of time.

So I shifted back to the grill and the hook attached to the hood. I could "barely" see it through the crack of the hood. In the end, I concluded the hook attached to the hood had to be removed, there was really no other way for me to get this thing open.

So I had to make a new tool, I constructed a reciprocating saw blade by drilling and bolting 2 blades together to reach about 15 inches in without destroying the hood. The back of the hook base is about 15 inches deep under the hood. I then wrapped the teeth I wasn't using with spongebob duct tape to protect anything I might accidentally hit along the way. It looked like this:




I then carefully removed the 2 torx screws on the front of the hook bracket. The one on the passenger side I was able to remove with a ratcheting wrench and bit, albeit slowly. The one on the drivers side required long nose vice grips to grab as hard as I could and break because the bit and wrench wont fit because it gets stuck against the plastic and wont get underneath the screw. Luckily, both screws are not very tight and pretty easy to break and loosen. the screws are already out in the photos, i forgot to take a picture when they were still in. That leaves you with:








I then used the reciprocating saw with a spotter to slowly and carefully cut the front of the bracket. The metal is very soft and easy to cut. After the front was cut, I put the blade further in and cut the back. And pop, the hood was free. The bracket looked like this when I was done:



I was able to successfully do this without any damage to the car. I would highly recommend that you use a second person when you are cutting though, you cannot easily see inside to make sure the blade isn't hitting anything else as you cut.

Now that the hood is open, its pretty obvious how the mechanism works and is changed. Getting the hood open is definitely the challenge. It took me a good 15 hours or so to do this. Seeing the mechanism now, if you had another e70 available you MIGHT be able to construct a tool to reach the latch from through the grill, but it would be a custom tool with many bends as the latch is really in an awkward spot behind the plastic and radiator. I don't know if it would really work, but I think it's possible.

I hope this helps someone. This problem on the e70 is not trivial like other models. The lesson in all this might be, periodically check the hood mechanism and do some preventative maintenance because this isn't a problem you want to deal with!

Last edited by clinkinfo; 11-24-2015 at 03:39 AM.
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  #10  
Old 11-23-2015, 08:52 AM
lpcapital lpcapital is offline
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Thanks SOOOO much for finally shedding some light on this issue!!!!

One thing I wanted to ask is if you figured out WHAT actually broke.

I have picked up a habit of lubricating all moving hinges and latches in my vehicle on a yearly basis (few things annoy me more than a squeaking door) and I normally spray down some lithium grease in the latch mechanism, but if the issue if with the cable or something else, this may not help...
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  #11  
Old 11-23-2015, 08:57 AM
clinkinfo clinkinfo is offline
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Originally Posted by lpcapital View Post
Thanks SOOOO much for finally shedding some light on this issue!!!!

One thing I wanted to ask is if you figured out WHAT actually broke.

I have picked up a habit of lubricating all moving hinges and latches in my vehicle on a yearly basis (few things annoy me more than a squeaking door) and I normally spray down some lithium grease in the latch mechanism, but if the issue if with the cable or something else, this may not help...
I'm not certain yet because I'm just waiting for the replacement parts before I bother to pull the spring latches out.

If I was going to guess though, theres a couple possibilities. the cable end may have pulled off the cable at the latch, or the arm on the latch itself broke. Truthfully though, neither of those make 100% sense because I'm not seeing the cable move at the latch when I pull with the vice grips on the other end. So it does also bring up the real possibility for a broken or stretched cable.

The parts should be here in a day or so. When I take out the latch I'll take some more photos and tell you for certain which part broke.
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  #12  
Old 11-25-2015, 06:20 AM
stevieg58 stevieg58 is offline
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GREAT job! And I always love the pics - they make things so much easier to understand.

Though, as you say, this is a real nightmare. I've now lubricated all of the cables and anchors in hopes of preventing this problem.

One question - why did you remove the front screws on the hood bracket? Since you're cutting the bracket anyway, why spend the time removing the screws? Did removing the screws allow you to lift the hood a (perhaps) critical half inch or so to get the saw blade into position?

Just for general information it is possible to release the secondary (safety) latch on the drivers side without using the handle behind the front grill. After activating the primary latch release, I was able to get a long (16 inch) screwdriver into position and flip the safety release latch to open the hood without using the handle behind the front grill/hood. This would not have been of any use in your situation (your failure point was in the primary latch system) but it might be helpful to someone else in the future.

Thanks for taking the time to post this.
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  #13  
Old 11-25-2015, 01:37 PM
clinkinfo clinkinfo is offline
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Originally Posted by stevieg58 View Post
GREAT job! And I always love the pics - they make things so much easier to understand.

Though, as you say, this is a real nightmare. I've now lubricated all of the cables and anchors in hopes of preventing this problem.

One question - why did you remove the front screws on the hood bracket? Since you're cutting the bracket anyway, why spend the time removing the screws? Did removing the screws allow you to lift the hood a (perhaps) critical half inch or so to get the saw blade into position?

Just for general information it is possible to release the secondary (safety) latch on the drivers side without using the handle behind the front grill. After activating the primary latch release, I was able to get a long (16 inch) screwdriver into position and flip the safety release latch to open the hood without using the handle behind the front grill/hood. This would not have been of any use in your situation (your failure point was in the primary latch system) but it might be helpful to someone else in the future.

Thanks for taking the time to post this.

Yeah, the safety latch design is different, I don't think you can get a normal tool on the main latch to push. A custom tool, maybe, if you had another e70 and some time to fashion it.

I removed the front bolts so that my first cut would cause the entire front of the bracket to fall down and away so I could see and manage the second cut. in such a tight space I didn't want to loose control of the reciprocal saw going through 2 bracket supports at the same time, something I wasn't sure I could guarantee without first cutting the front of the bracket and getting it to fall away with the bolts removed. It really is a tight space and as I'm sure you know, reciprical saws are not "precision tools" I'd normally want to use around engine and body components
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  #14  
Old 11-30-2015, 06:52 PM
clinkinfo clinkinfo is offline
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So I'm back. It turns out, my passenger side cable was shot. Don't know if there's much you can do preventatively, I guess if you experience any hood "issues", I wouldn't hesitate to change the cable. My cable was very stiff and not moving well at all, compared to the new one.

Couple followup details, the latch comes out on the passenger side fairly easily. There's an electrical connection on the passenger side, you need to disconnect it too, the new latch comes with the entire electrical cable assembly attached. See the picture:





Once the latch is out, you twist the cable attachment to unlock it (took me a minute to figure that out), and then twist lock the new one on:





Getting the drivers side out is much harder, there is a similar opening, but it's blocked by a body flange. Doable, but more of a pain:



I'm still looking for a safely design on the release. It's tough because you need to push the latch back toward the rear of the car, so any cable you could attach and pull forward isn't going to release it unless you wrap it around something and get it to pull back. It think it's possible, because there are 2 little holes behind each bracket, but it's not as simple as I wanted.
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  #15  
Old 12-25-2015, 12:36 PM
Bigwillie1965 Bigwillie1965 is offline
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E70 X5 Hood Latch failure

This is a huge pile of dung..... I got the same miserable issue and figure this will become one of those "MEMORABLE" things about BMW's engineering skills for years and years to come. Frankly, BMW "should" offer an extended warranty on this shoddy design with no clear repair method. The field failures are just gonna pile up.
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  #16  
Old 12-30-2015, 07:40 AM
kachmarmj kachmarmj is offline
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Thanks for this post. I'm having the same issue with my passenger side latch.

Until now, I have been staring dumbly at my radiator looking for a cable to pull.
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  #17  
Old 12-30-2015, 10:57 AM
lpcapital lpcapital is offline
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I have a feeling that soon I'll attach a string or a cable to my passenger side latch so in case it ever stop working I don't have to go mad!!!!

I continue to be unclear as to what is it that breaks or prevents the passenger side to unhook. It would be great if clinkinfo could clarify: I read that the passenger side cable was "stiff", but then why the driver side would release? Aren't the two cable connected? Does something in the distribution box gives?
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  #18  
Old 12-31-2015, 01:29 PM
Bigwillie1965 Bigwillie1965 is offline
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Originally Posted by lpcapital View Post
I have a feeling that soon I'll attach a string or a cable to my passenger side latch so in case it ever stop working I don't have to go mad!!!!

I continue to be unclear as to what is it that breaks or prevents the passenger side to unhook. It would be great if clinkinfo could clarify: I read that the passenger side cable was "stiff", but then why the driver side would release? Aren't the two cable connected? Does something in the distribution box gives?

One of these cables would be longer than the other and subject to "unique" exposure elements.......... Let's see if BMW will honor a decent warranty on this before I "THUMP" on the reasons "why" this would happen. It's pretty obvious.
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  #19  
Old 01-01-2016, 09:36 PM
Hamlet1987 Hamlet1987 is offline
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Recently went through this. 2 hours labor plus $100~ in parts. I Ill let you know final price when I pick up truck Monday.
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  #20  
Old 01-02-2016, 07:43 AM
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Doug Huffman Doug Huffman is offline
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Studying my X5 in light of these problems, I see a union/junction on the driver's side 3/4 of the way forward where the passenger side cable joins and apparently breaks. And I squirted holy-oil where ever I could, hoping that an ounce of prevention is good.
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Old 01-03-2016, 06:33 AM
Bigwillie1965 Bigwillie1965 is offline
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Recently went through this. 2 hours labor plus $100~ in parts. I Ill let you know final price when I pick up truck Monday.
That actually sounds pretty good....... I'm very surprised. Dealership? Who is performing?

I still have not fixed mine cuz I'm not keen on the Sawzall method yet (it's brilliant, just I'm not convinced this should be my hassle rather than BMW's)
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Old 01-03-2016, 06:42 AM
Bigwillie1965 Bigwillie1965 is offline
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bmw x5 hood latch recall

The interesting part is that is seems there may have been recalls in the past on the E70 hood latches. I got this from another board..... You would think BMW woulda fixed this. At a minimum, BMW should offer an extended warranty on something like this.

Hood Latch Recall for E70 X5
The link for the Hood Latch Corrosion issue is as follows:

http://www.bmwtis.com/tsb/bulletins/...p/B510307g.htm

Involved e70 X5 vehicles produced up to 12/20/06

Hope this helps. If anyone has any other service bulleting information, please post.
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Old 01-03-2016, 07:24 AM
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Doug Huffman Doug Huffman is offline
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http://www.bmwtis.com/tsb/bulletins/...p/B510307g.htm
Quote:
The page cannot be found
The page you are looking for might have been removed, had its name changed, or is temporarily unavailable.
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Old 01-03-2016, 09:28 AM
Hamlet1987 Hamlet1987 is offline
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Originally Posted by Bigwillie1965 View Post
That actually sounds pretty good....... I'm very surprised. Dealership? Who is performing?

I still have not fixed mine cuz I'm not keen on the Sawzall method yet (it's brilliant, just I'm not convinced this should be my hassle rather than BMW's)
Yes, Yark BMW in Sylvania, Ohio. I'll give you the exact amount tomorrow as I pick up the truck then.
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  #25  
Old 01-03-2016, 11:21 AM
Bigwillie1965 Bigwillie1965 is offline
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Yep, I also noticed that the link has been mysteriously disabled......which seems even more strange. In fact, I felt like this topic is "highly ellusive" on the entire internet. I promise that many E70 owners will have this issue eventually.
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