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E34 (1989 - 1995)

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  #26  
Old 01-14-2013, 09:20 AM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Originally Posted by Monsignor View Post
The rough idle is only for a minute when warming up after start up. And "warming up" is not to mean only cold startups.

My plugs are new, coil boots are new, new valve cover gasket, all hoses are new. I've never had a successful stomp test procedure, i dont know why.
Try disconnecting the ects and doing the startup. If that doesn't help.......then do this, stick a long screwdriver on each coil or the coil's bracket while the engine is running rough, and hold the wooden end to your ear, go through each coil, and see if you can hear anything different on any coil.

Also, please invent an obd1 bluetooth code reader with a downloadable app for android phones. They have these for obd2. While you're at it, you might as well come up with a laproscope, the kind they sell on ebay for like $20, but with a fitting for android phones instead of a usb fitting for a laptop.
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  #27  
Old 01-14-2013, 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by robertobaggio20 View Post
Try disconnecting the ects and doing the startup. If that doesn't help.......then do this, stick a long screwdriver on each coil or the coil's bracket while the engine is running rough, and hold the wooden end to your ear, go through each coil, and see if you can hear anything different on any coil.

Also, please invent an obd1 bluetooth code reader with a downloadable app for android phones. They have these for obd2. While you're at it, you might as well come up with a laproscope, the kind they sell on ebay for like $20, but with a fitting for android phones instead of a usb fitting for a laptop.
what is the ects? and if i had any programming or tech experience I'd love to.

I had an iphone for 3.5 years. Switched to a droid tablet and a galaxy S III last thursday. best decision i ever made.

I know you guys all know i work in IT buy i'm in finance. I dont do anything other than numbers, i'm just at an IT building...
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  #28  
Old 01-14-2013, 09:35 AM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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what is the ects? and if i had any programming or tech experience I'd love to.

I had an iphone for 3.5 years. Switched to a droid tablet and a galaxy S III last thursday. best decision i ever made.

I know you guys all know i work in IT buy i'm in finance. I dont do anything other than numbers, i'm just at an IT building...
Engine coolant temperature sensor. There are two such sensors under the manifold, the one closest to the vanos unit would be the ects, the other leads to the dashboard temp gauge.
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  #29  
Old 01-14-2013, 09:38 AM
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what would disconnecting that do? i dont think it is temperture related. It is just on startup, warm or cold. I think it must be the alternator because it has to charge up the car which is giving the motor weak juice. it smooths out when the alternator has provided a sufficient charge...
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  #30  
Old 01-14-2013, 01:54 PM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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what would disconnecting that do? i dont think it is temperture related. It is just on startup, warm or cold. I think it must be the alternator because it has to charge up the car which is giving the motor weak juice. it smooths out when the alternator has provided a sufficient charge...

Disconnecting the ects would rule that out as a link in the causation chain for this problem.

In any case, your assumption is easily tested.

1. Hook up sister's volvo to your E34 in hot jump configuration (i.e. donor's engine on and at idle).

2. Start your engine and see if there is any difference in the idle.

3. If there is no difference, shut down your engine, do +1500 rpm on the donor's car with the jump connected.

4. Start your engine and see if there is any difference in the idle.

The donor's car will provide a stable charge. This test will thus eliminate a poor alternator from the equation. I don't suppose that this method can be used to rule in/out any suspected charging system issue with the car.

It is important to note that any difference in the idle, and not a smooth idle per se, may be indicative of the charging system being within the causation chain of this issue. Yes, there may be more than one thing going wrong at a time, to result in this issue. It happens often enough for us to be open to that.

If this does not totally fix the the problem, you might want to check on what else could be the issue. It might also be time for you to use your skills in finance to entice some IT guys to come up with a cheap OBD1 bluetooth code reader and live car system reporting tool, accessible through your vastly superior android device, in order for you to read the codes on your car whenever you like.



rgds,
Roberto

Last edited by robertobaggio20; 01-14-2013 at 01:57 PM.
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  #31  
Old 01-14-2013, 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by robertobaggio20 View Post
Disconnecting the ects would rule that out as a link in the causation chain for this problem.

In any case, your assumption is easily tested.

1. Hook up sister's volvo to your E34 in hot jump configuration (i.e. donor's engine on and at idle).

2. Start your engine and see if there is any difference in the idle.

3. If there is no difference, shut down your engine, do +1500 rpm on the donor's car with the jump connected.

4. Start your engine and see if there is any difference in the idle.

This will eliminate a poor alternator from the equation.

It is important to note that any difference in the idle, and not a smooth idle per se, may be indicative of the charging system being within the causation chain of this issue. Yes, there may be more than one thing going wrong at a time, to result in this issue. It happens often enough for us to be open to that.

If this does not totally fix the the problem, you might want to check on what else could be the issue. It might also be time for you to use your skills in finance to entice some IT guys to come up with a cheap OBD1 bluetooth code reader and live car system reporting tool, accessible through your vastly superior android device, in order for you to read the codes on your car whenever you like.



rgds,
Roberto
when i jumped her, volvo was at idle. rough idle on hte bmw end of those cables. i dont want to jump car that can fire itself especially with this super finicky electrical system of the E34. i envision blowing all sorts of fuses relays and the fuseable link by putting a loaded charge from another car onto my charge one...
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  #32  
Old 01-14-2013, 02:20 PM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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when i jumped her, volvo was at idle. rough idle on hte bmw end of those cables. i dont want to jump car that can fire itself especially with this super finicky electrical system of the E34. i envision blowing all sorts of fuses relays and the fuseable link by putting a loaded charge from another car onto my charge one...
Then your car is not very well maintained, at this point, which means many things could be causing this problem. Super finicky electrical system does not sound like an E34 to me. Do a thorough tuneup or systems check first, and if that doesn't cure the rough idle, (it very well might) then reinspect it using the dmm and the jump method above.

Unless you have plans to read the error codes soon, try deleting them and see what happens. Unclamp the ecu and key2 for 2 minutes, then key0 and reclamp it. Then start.


rgds,
Roberto
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  #33  
Old 01-14-2013, 02:24 PM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Please clean the contacts for the afm, icv, tps, and all temperature sensors on both the sensors and their connectors. Dielectric grease them before reconnection. Then clear all error codes, and startup the car.
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  #34  
Old 01-14-2013, 03:27 PM
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Then your car is not very well maintained
I find this unbelieveably offensive.

Quote:
Originally Posted by robertobaggio20 View Post
Super finicky electrical system does not sound like an E34 to me.
Are you $hitting me?

Quote:
Originally Posted by robertobaggio20 View Post
Do a thorough tuneup
I've obviously done this as my car is meticulousy, fastidiously, exactly, and undeniably thoroghly maintained.

I had a question as to whether my alternator could cause a rought idle on startup and you're accusing me poor maintenance? For shame. Maybe i should blown out my electricals by firing it attached to a reving car ontop of its current charge.

That should do wonders for my unmaintained car.
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  #35  
Old 01-14-2013, 04:40 PM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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I find this unbelieveably offensive.



Are you $hitting me?



I've obviously done this as my car is meticulousy, fastidiously, exactly, and undeniably thoroghly maintained.

I had a question as to whether my alternator could cause a rought idle on startup and you're accusing me poor maintenance? For shame. Maybe i should blown out my electricals by firing it attached to a reving car ontop of its current charge.

That should do wonders for my unmaintained car.
Oh i see that you're offended, and I see the error in my earlier post.

The donor's car must have a properly functioning alternator, specifically, with a properly functioning voltage regulator. Forgive me for failing to point this out explicitly.

This too can be easily tested using a standard dmm. The methods have been outlined earlier in this thread. This is also something that you can use to test for voltage instability on your current car, and in any case, rule it in/out with a jump. Considering that it is well maintained, and you do your own work, I'm sure you have this device in your toolchest or have access to one.

Any older car's electricals would have issues, mainly due to degraded insulation and shorting due to heat/abrasion damage of wires in vulnerable areas and negligent handling during service and repair (older car = more service and repair incidents). However, to describe a particular model's electricals with the word "super finicky" means that model must demonstrate a significantly higher level of problems for that sector than the unmoving average for cars of that era. The E34 doesn't do this. Characterising it as such is ignorance at best, consistent bad luck in the middle or offensiveness at worst. I make no judgment as to which applies to you in this case.

I have been running a 240 amp alternator for the past 6 months and have revved it to the redline while at idle without busting anything in general or in particular. This is an alternator that is nearly 50% higher than stock (and for some E34s, this would be nearly 250% higher than stock).

As an interesting aside, all of my mechanics assured me (with snide remarks mostly) that such an alternator would set the car on fire, cause the battery's terminals to melt, short things out, and all manner of gloom and doom. I just recalled what the rebuilder explained to me, and correlated this to what other rebuilders explained to me (which I did not accept at first). Perhaps I could explain that for what its worth.

An alternator runs because the battery sends and maintains a starter current through the alternator's innards, and this starter current DIRECTLY determines the output current of the charging coil. The voltage regulator within the alternator determines the amount of starter current it needs to draw from the battery, by assessing the car's electrical demands at that point in time. It has a means of determining this...i stopped my research at that point so I can't explain this further.

To use an extreme example, you can have a 20k amp alternator, it will still run your well maintained 90-140A car without starting a fire, assuming the alternator itself functions correctly. It will also keep your car safe even if you hook up all the homes in your subdivision comfortably. That voltage regulator is the key.

Besides, the car has all manner of surge protections which, in a well maintained car, would be verified to be in good shape.

I've given you simple and cheap ways to determine if your alternator is an issue over here. If these ways are not sufficient to your purposes, you'll have to pay $40 at an appropriate testing facility to get your alternator worked over comprehensively. There is no in between.


rgds,
Roberto

Last edited by robertobaggio20; 01-14-2013 at 04:59 PM.
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  #36  
Old 01-14-2013, 04:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monsignor View Post
when i jumped her, volvo was at idle. rough idle on hte bmw end of those cables. i dont want to jump car that can fire itself especially with this super finicky electrical system of the E34. i envision blowing all sorts of fuses relays and the fuseable link by putting a loaded charge from another car onto my charge one...
+1

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  #37  
Old 01-14-2013, 05:14 PM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Originally Posted by Monsignor View Post
when i jumped her, volvo was at idle. rough idle on hte bmw end of those cables. i dont want to jump car that can fire itself especially with this super finicky electrical system of the E34. i envision blowing all sorts of fuses relays and the fuseable link by putting a loaded charge from another car onto my charge one...

I didn't read this properly earlier. The risk of the E34 setting itself on fire by exposure to is equivalent to the risk of any older car made by a leading german manufacturer setting itself on fire by a similar exposure.

Hi Noel, I see that you've agreed with the Padre's beliefs in this. I thought about this, and remembered a few other people who have told me this over the years.

I'm prepared to state that this is a car superstition, and like all car superstitions which do not require the support of certain products, this superstition is mainly propagated by car mechanics with limited academic knowledge.

All superstitions had a grain of truth in them at one time. I would speculate that this superstition was true back in the 60s and 70s, when all kinds of new electrical devices and general revolutionary innovation was going on in car manufacture, and when testing of the appropriate methods to wire cars, the appropriate materials to be used, etc etc etc, was still in its early stages. They must have had alot more problems back then.

The fact that we are comfortably driving the E34 today, with the odd blown fuse or bulb here, an lkm there, and that's about it, shows that it behaves as any well maintained older car should.



Roberto GS

Last edited by robertobaggio20; 01-14-2013 at 05:16 PM.
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  #38  
Old 01-14-2013, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by robertobaggio20 View Post
I didn't read this properly earlier. The risk of the E34 setting itself on fire by exposure to is equivalent to the risk of any older car made by a leading german manufacturer setting itself on fire by a similar exposure.

Hi Noel, I see that you've agreed with the Padre's beliefs in this. I thought about this, and remembered a few other people who have told me this over the years.

I'm prepared to state that this is a car superstition, and like all car superstitions which do not require the support of certain products, this superstition is mainly propagated by car mechanics with limited academic knowledge.

All superstitions had a grain of truth in them at one time. I would speculate that this superstition was true back in the 60s and 70s, when all kinds of new electrical devices and general revolutionary innovation was going on in car manufacture, and when testing of the appropriate methods to wire cars, the appropriate materials to be used, etc etc etc, was still in its early stages. They must have had alot more problems back then.

The fact that we are comfortably driving the E34 today, with the odd blown fuse or bulb here, an lkm there, and that's about it, shows that it behaves as any well maintained older car should.



Roberto GS
Superstition like diesel in the oil?

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  #39  
Old 01-14-2013, 06:03 PM
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An alternator runs because the battery sends and maintains a starter current through the alternator's innards, and this starter current DIRECTLY determines the output current of the charging coil.
This is completely incorrect. Starter current does NOT pass through the alternator....ever

Quote:
The voltage regulator within the alternator determines the amount of starter current it needs to draw from the battery, by assessing the car's electrical demands at that point in time. It has a means of determining this...i stopped my research at that point so I can't explain this further.
This is also completely incorrect. The alternator charges the battery after the fact. The alternator does not draw current from the battery, it goes the other direction. The voltage regulator senses VOLTAGE drop in the system and begins charging the battery after start up.

I can't belive the let you back in....so much for the wonderful peace and quiet we had for a few short days....
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  #40  
Old 01-14-2013, 10:36 PM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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This is completely incorrect. Starter current does NOT pass through the alternator....ever



This is also completely incorrect. The alternator charges the battery after the fact. The alternator does not draw current from the battery, it goes the other direction. The voltage regulator senses VOLTAGE drop in the system and begins charging the battery after start up.

I can't belive the let you back in....so much for the wonderful peace and quiet we had for a few short days....
I basically thought as you did once. However, thats not how a car's alternator works, after much reading and repeated references from alternator rebuilders. A current proportionate to what is required to support the load posed by the car is drawn by the alternator from the battery. This starter current generates a magnetic field which crosses the stator's wires to generate the appropriate current required by the car. The voltage regulator runs the show. You can pick this apart anyway you like but you'll boil down to the essentials that I've described.

Come, I'm in a good mood so I'll help you with this, and I too remember my indignation that two sets of currents are involved instead of one, so let me help you. Check this out.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alternator

Roberto GS
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  #41  
Old 01-14-2013, 11:14 PM
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Superstition like diesel in the oil?

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Yes Padre, yes. Exactly like that.

The superstitions over diesel crankcase flushes were as follows :

Superstition 1 (My favourite). 20-30% by crankcase volume of straight pump diesel in the crankcase flushed like off-the shelf flushes keep the engine free of sludge, gunk and whatnot.

Origin of superstition : probably in the 60s, when there was no modern fuel injection and multigrade oils and engine technology in general was developing apace.

Truth : In recent times, regular use of synthetic engine oil from world class manufacturers such as Shell, Castrol, LiquiMoly and Mobil1, and regular oil and oil filter changes, leads to such a low buildup of sludge and gunk in the engine that ANY engine flushing fluid, including pump diesel, would not remove enough for there to be any significant difference to the engine and thus its performance.

Superstition 2 (Off the shelf engine flush companies' and their lobbyists' favourite) : 20-30% by volume of straight pump diesel in the crankcase flushed like off-the shelf flushes damages engine bearings because diesel thins the oil so much that it damages engine bearings and other stuff, along with cleaning the engine.

Truth: An engine built by one of the world's oldest and best reputed car engine builders, was run on 100% diesel and 0% engine oil as a flush during servicing intervals, at least 3 times a year, for 20 years straight, and the car was used as a daily driver and not a garage queen over that 20 years, and the engine was subsequently torn down, and the bearings were inspected, and found to be "like new", to quote the mechanic who did the job.

Truth2 : A trucking company treats incoming trucks to such a diesel flush as soon as they come in. Of course, a diesel engine is vastly different from a gasoline one. It has no bearings, no crankshaft, no pistons, nothing.

You would have understood this if you read through that immortal thread on crankcase flushes which has now been blocked by those frightened of the truth and desperate for validation by any means. I don't blame you for not reading that as it got ugly because I refused to bow down to those who still believe that might is right when it comes to science...lol... Basically, it proved that 1-2quart diesel crankcase flushes are totally safe for the car if treated like any other flush ( run the car at idle, no revving, no driving, then drain totally and change to new oil), but....practically speaking, most car engines would not benefit much from this as they are pretty clean anyway due to regular maintenance by responsible owners and engine problems if they exist are generally not due to the presence of sludge per se.

Of course, I've archived that thread on my own for offline reading, anticipating people's behaviour, and can send that to you via pm or post that here if you like.

Now, I can admit my errors, I hope you can admit yours. Remember, when you hook up your car to another, you are basically overlaying a parallel electrical circuit on the donor's car. Two current generators in the circuit makes no difference to anything. There's nothing more sophisticated to the art than that. Most jump starts encourage the donor car to be revved to 1k or 1.5k before the recipient starts their car, and if that was routinely dangerous to cars it is unlikely to have stood the test of time.

And even if the donor's alternator goes bust such as to send current surges through the system (and your car, while being jumped, is part of its system), your car has all kinds of surge protection devices built in to protect everything that is worth protecting and that has been proven to work as designed even in E34s that are not as well maintained as yours.

Please, conduct the tests as I've described, both with the dmm and the jumped donor with and without revving. Its a quick and dirty way to rule this issue in/out. I'm a gentleman and a scholar, and you're a padre driving a well maintained E34.



Roberto GS
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  #42  
Old 01-14-2013, 11:27 PM
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I'd go for sticky ICV. Clean it out and retry.
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  #43  
Old 01-15-2013, 06:54 AM
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I have an update, ill post it in my other thread about firing her up

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  #44  
Old 01-15-2013, 07:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertobaggio20 View Post
Yes Padre, yes. Exactly like that.

The superstitions over diesel crankcase flushes were as follows :

Superstition 1 (My favourite). 20-30% by crankcase volume of straight pump diesel in the crankcase flushed like off-the shelf flushes keep the engine free of sludge, gunk and whatnot.

Origin of superstition : probably in the 60s, when there was no modern fuel injection and multigrade oils and engine technology in general was developing apace.

Truth : In recent times, regular use of synthetic engine oil from world class manufacturers such as Shell, Castrol, LiquiMoly and Mobil1, and regular oil and oil filter changes, leads to such a low buildup of sludge and gunk in the engine that ANY engine flushing fluid, including pump diesel, would not remove enough for there to be any significant difference to the engine and thus its performance.

Superstition 2 (Off the shelf engine flush companies' and their lobbyists' favourite) : 20-30% by volume of straight pump diesel in the crankcase flushed like off-the shelf flushes damages engine bearings because diesel thins the oil so much that it damages engine bearings and other stuff, along with cleaning the engine.

Truth: An engine built by one of the world's oldest and best reputed car engine builders, was run on 100% diesel and 0% engine oil as a flush during servicing intervals, at least 3 times a year, for 20 years straight, and the car was used as a daily driver and not a garage queen over that 20 years, and the engine was subsequently torn down, and the bearings were inspected, and found to be "like new", to quote the mechanic who did the job.

Truth2 : A trucking company treats incoming trucks to such a diesel flush as soon as they come in. Of course, a diesel engine is vastly different from a gasoline one. It has no bearings, no crankshaft, no pistons, nothing.

You would have understood this if you read through that immortal thread on crankcase flushes which has now been blocked by those frightened of the truth and desperate for validation by any means. I don't blame you for not reading that as it got ugly because I refused to bow down to those who still believe that might is right when it comes to science...lol... Basically, it proved that 1-2quart diesel crankcase flushes are totally safe for the car if treated like any other flush ( run the car at idle, no revving, no driving, then drain totally and change to new oil), but....practically speaking, most car engines would not benefit much from this as they are pretty clean anyway due to regular maintenance by responsible owners and engine problems if they exist are generally not due to the presence of sludge per se.

Of course, I've archived that thread on my own for offline reading, anticipating people's behaviour, and can send that to you via pm or post that here if you like.

Now, I can admit my errors, I hope you can admit yours. Remember, when you hook up your car to another, you are basically overlaying a parallel electrical circuit on the donor's car. Two current generators in the circuit makes no difference to anything. There's nothing more sophisticated to the art than that. Most jump starts encourage the donor car to be revved to 1k or 1.5k before the recipient starts their car, and if that was routinely dangerous to cars it is unlikely to have stood the test of time.

And even if the donor's alternator goes bust such as to send current surges through the system (and your car, while being jumped, is part of its system), your car has all kinds of surge protection devices built in to protect everything that is worth protecting and that has been proven to work as designed even in E34s that are not as well maintained as yours.

Please, conduct the tests as I've described, both with the dmm and the jumped donor with and without revving. Its a quick and dirty way to rule this issue in/out. I'm a gentleman and a scholar, and you're a padre driving a well maintained E34.



Roberto GS


Truth 1: People talk louder when they want to sound intelligent.

Truth 2: There is no voice on the internet.

Truth 3: People write ridiculous novellas pertaining to $hit to sound intelligent on the internet.
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  #45  
Old 01-15-2013, 07:19 AM
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supertech777 supertech777 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monsignor View Post


Truth 1: People talk louder when they want to sound intelligent.

Truth 2: There is no voice on the internet.

Truth 3: People write ridiculous novellas pertaining to $hit to sound intelligent on the internet.
Hahahahaha that's some funny stuf, but ain't that the truth LOL

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  #46  
Old 01-15-2013, 11:38 AM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monsignor View Post

Truth 3: People write ridiculous novellas pertaining to $hit to sound intelligent on the internet.

The cliff notes are short but can only remind one of stuff that's already been read and understood from thicker textbooks. When that hasn't been done, being brief in one's reply would only serve to further confuse the unadvised.

Last edited by robertobaggio20; 01-15-2013 at 08:31 PM.
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  #47  
Old 01-15-2013, 09:05 PM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monsignor View Post
when i jumped her, volvo was at idle. rough idle on hte bmw end of those cables. i dont want to jump car that can fire itself especially with this super finicky electrical system of the E34. i envision blowing all sorts of fuses relays and the fuseable link by putting a loaded charge from another car onto my charge one...
I doubt you're going to read this or ascribe any credit to it, but i just reread your original post and I must agree that I misread it. You did not mean that the car would catch fire by running the engine will connected in parallel with another car being held at 1500rpm.

I'm sorry padre. Stupid of me. I used my irritation at your super finicky electricals comment (I was irritated because it came from you of all people) and took other things out of context.

I should stop reading the lobbyist's posts. I'm becoming like them.

I have caused you needless unhappiness over this, and I apologise unreservedly.

I'm not saying this as a preemptive action to stave off any moderator's actions including a ban of any kind. I long ago decided that I could not care what they did, after they permitted the abuse that I was receiving. And, apparently, no one else cares about them judging by the poor support I received over the notion to have them paid. I don't even bother to discuss or dispute their decisions with them any longer.

I'm sorry to you, for being in error over here.

Padre, listen to me. The method I suggested to you, was something that I came up with on the spot while responding to you here, and I have not read it elsewhere on the net or seen it done elsewhere before this. Its an obvious enough idea for others to be using it I'm sure. However, one of the important functions of a forums is to become a place where thinking and innovation can happen. And new ideas can only be tested on a a car that appears to have a specific problem right now.

Once tested and proven to be workable, the method becomes useable for all and sundry, in perpetuity. Everybody wins.

Following this method, another member here, at my suggestion and after careful thought, proceeded to replace his faulty DME on a car with a working EWS2 system, with a working red label DME and a deleted EWS. He saved himself several hundred dollars, and endorsed a new method and cheap method to solve an obscure problem (that of dmes going bust on EWS equiped cars - without the ews delete a new dme would have to be recoded to the current EWS system on the car and that would cost loads at the dealer inclusive of towing charges).

Probably right about now, Tim from the EWS thread is doing some work on his car at my request. They are likely to be fruitless but if they yield some surprising results, it would be a good thing for all of us. We will both report on that later.

Padre, I feel that you're letting your fears about a fragile car overwhelm your logic. I have the confidence in the E34 in general and your well maintained specimen in particular to make the following offer to you. Do the test as I have suggested earlier in this thread. First check both your charging system's voltage and that of the donor car's at idle with no load, at idle under full electrical load, and while at 1500rpm with no load and 1500rpm with full electrical load. Then link them up with jump cables and do the needful.

I will cover you for up to $1000, for any damage to your car or the donor's vehicle caused by you following my suggestions here, including parts, labour (if you go to a workshop for any repairs), and any reasonable loss of use compensation. I will take your word via a notarised statement endorseable at your local courthouse's comissioner for oaths for a nominal fee usually ( I will reimburse up to $100 towards this), as sufficient proof of that. No further verifications will be demanded, save for a detailed post here about what you did and how you did it. No need for videos unless you absolutely feel like it. I don't think the price of your conscience is a mere $1000 so I'm not taking a risk here as far as I'm concerned.

If you conduct the test and it does not result in any damage to your vehicle, I will donate this $1k to a non-religious charity of your choice. If you conduct this test, and along with no damage to either vehicle, it fixes your problem thus proving that this test is a valid one for a failing charging system, I will donate the money to a charity of my choice. Proof of that will be pmed to you. All of us have a set annual budget for donations and I'll just put this in my account.

If desired, I'm prepared to escrow this money to an appropriate service assuming charges do not exceed $75 for an amount of $1k, before you start off this test.


This is a great method to rule in/out the charging system and I need it verified to be safe, and to be useful for its intended purpose, on a car with a possible charging system problem.

This is not the first time where I've offered to underwrite one of my recommendations, but no one new should goad me towards that on other issues. The padre's basic integrity is a known entity and more than one person has taken that to the bank on their own car.



rgds,
Roberto

Last edited by robertobaggio20; 01-15-2013 at 09:14 PM.
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  #48  
Old 01-15-2013, 11:41 PM
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Monsignor Monsignor is offline
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No thank you.

I will remove the battery and have it tested as previously stated. If good,look towards my alternator. If bad, replace and move forward with the troubleshooting should the rough idle persist.
Simple.
Logical.
Reasonable.
Devoid of unnecessary dangers, whether you agree that they are potentially harmful or not, notwithstanding how much money you are willing to front.

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  #49  
Old 01-16-2013, 09:00 AM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monsignor View Post
No
thank you.

I will remove the battery and have it
tested as previously stated. If
good,look towards my alternator. If
bad, replace and move forward with
the troubleshooting should the rough
idle persist.
Simple.
Logical.
Reasonable.
Devoid of unnecessary dangers,
whether you agree that they are
potentially harmful or not,
notwithstanding how much money
you are willing to front.

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BimmerApp
Alright. That's your prerogative.
Thank you for addressing that.

Well, the idle and rpm test I
suggested earlier will assess your
entire charging system within 10
minutes, which is faster, cheaper, and
requires no disassembly and
reassembly, carriage to and fro from
shops, etc. And
there is no risk to an otherwise well
maintained car and donor, as the
voltage regulator on the donor's car
will not put out higher amps than the
total load it is exposed to, whatever
the rpms of its engine.

Let say it works, and your idle issue
goes away. The next thing to do is to
determine if its the battery or the
alternator that's the problem. Leave
the jump wires connected, but shut
off the other engine. Essentially
you've now got two batteries in
parallel with your own, one of which
is known to be good. Start your
engine and see if the idle problem
remains. If the idle is normal, your
battery is the problem. If it is as poor
as before, then its your alternator
that's the issue.

You can even do this second test
alone just to rule in/out your battery
frankly. So this way, there is no risk
even by your perceptions.

If the powered jump test clears your
charging system, the issue is
probably your icv. Remember that
BMWFF thinks so. This may or many
not throw a code for this type of brief
idle issue, and can happen even when
the icv is clean. We are dealing with a
car that has very similar symptoms
and no codes and are throwing in a
known good unit to see if it helps.

If neither the charging system or the
icv is at fault, then you'll either have
to do the disconnect test for what its
worth and/or have your codes read
somewhere.

Hmmmmm......while we're on the
subject....unless you're planning to
have your codes read very soon, you
can try to delete them first to see if
that sorts it out. It occasionally does.
Unclamp the ecu's wiring bus and
key2 for 2 minutes, then key0 and
reclamp the ecu....since the stomp
test does not work on your car. There
is no need to disconnect batteries
and touch terminals together. We
have tested this method for clearing
codes with a code reader.

I can't be bothered to state the
obvious, but since this might not be
generally known, never clamp or
unclamp the ecu with current live or
the engine running.

rgds,

Roberto

p.s. Well well. I just thought of
something else you could do to
further protect your electricals, while
taking a shower. Pull all the fuses in
the fuse box in your engine bay, and
the one under your rear seat, except
for those which relate to key devices
needed to run the engine such as the
fuel pump etc.
Start the car first and confirm that
your idle is still poor. If it isn't, then
you know what to do. If it is, shut it
down, connect jumper cables
attached to a donor with a working
alternator, then start both cars (the
sequence does not matter). Even if
the voltage regulator goes bust on
the donor's alternator and 200 amps
is sent your way, the only thing that
will blow will be your fusible link (the
fusible link directly protects the ECU).
In actual fact, the only thing that will
blow even if all the fuses were intact
would still be just the fusible link as
well, due to the way circuits are
structured in a car, but that is for
another post. There, I've both idiot,
misfortune and sabotage-proofed
this method.
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  #50  
Old 01-16-2013, 07:21 PM
Ssuss34 Ssuss34 is offline
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Robertobaggio, how do you have the time to post this stuff?

I have read most comments (lightly skimmed through Roberto's) and the main trend I am seeing is that Robertobaggio more often than not states "Sorry I misread that" and begins to try and correct his previous instructions.

Bottom line "NO TIME FOR THIS".
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