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E90/E91/E92/E93 (2006 - 2013)
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  #1  
Old 09-13-2015, 10:42 AM
jmvoss jmvoss is offline
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Red face Torque Specs on Spark Plug Replacement

Hello BMW Owners,

A newbie of maintaining a 2007 335i Twin Turbo.
1. Replaced OFHG
2. Replaced Cylinder Head Gasket or Valve Cover gasket depending on forums or Bentely manual.
3.Waiting for New Spark Plugs from Burger Motor Sports NGK's.
? Torques Specs for these plugs?
Replaced old spark plugs in process dropped one that goes in cylinder 2 gap messed up. So, car is not running correctly. Good news have new plugs coming tomorrow. Torque Specifics please. with or without anti-sieze?
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  #2  
Old 09-14-2015, 06:22 AM
fdriller9 fdriller9 is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmvoss View Post
Hello BMW Owners,

A newbie of maintaining a 2007 335i Twin Turbo.
1. Replaced OFHG
2. Replaced Cylinder Head Gasket or Valve Cover gasket depending on forums or Bentely manual.
3.Waiting for New Spark Plugs from Burger Motor Sports NGK's.
? Torques Specs for these plugs?
Replaced old spark plugs in process dropped one that goes in cylinder 2 gap messed up. So, car is not running correctly. Good news have new plugs coming tomorrow. Torque Specifics please. with or without anti-sieze?
You do not need new plugs if the gap is incorrect.

They sell $2 tools at auto parts stores to measure and adjust gap.

Just get the plugs hand tight (no leverage) and turn them an additional 90 degrees.

You do NOT use antiseize on this motor for plugs.
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  #3  
Old 09-14-2015, 10:23 AM
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thekurgan thekurgan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fdriller9 View Post
You do not need new plugs if the gap is incorrect.

They sell $2 tools at auto parts stores to measure and adjust gap.

Just get the plugs hand tight (no leverage) and turn them an additional 90 degrees.

You do NOT use antiseize on this motor for plugs.
Shouldn't the plugs only be torqued once, due to the crush washer being part of the torque equation?
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  #4  
Old 09-14-2015, 11:00 AM
fdriller9 fdriller9 is online now
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Originally Posted by thekurgan View Post
Shouldn't the plugs only be torqued once, due to the crush washer being part of the torque equation?
He never said he installed it. He said he dropped it, altering gap.

If the crush gasket WAS used, it is recommended to replace but I've reused them with no issue. Everyone's mileage may vary...
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  #5  
Old 09-14-2015, 11:06 AM
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CALWATERBOY DUE CALWATERBOY DUE is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmvoss View Post
Hello BMW Owners,

A newbie of maintaining a 2007 335i Twin Turbo.
1. Replaced OFHG
2. Replaced Cylinder Head Gasket or Valve Cover gasket depending on forums or Bentely manual.
3.Waiting for New Spark Plugs from Burger Motor Sports NGK's.
? Torques Specs for these plugs?
Replaced old spark plugs in process dropped one that goes in cylinder 2 gap messed up. So, car is not running correctly. Good news have new plugs coming tomorrow. Torque Specifics please. with or without anti-sieze?

Whatsa OFHG?

Torque given in Post #6 - drill down HERE -or- let Google be your guide.

Now then. New plugs every 40-45k mi please, and walnut blast about every 60k mi or less.
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  #6  
Old 09-14-2015, 11:12 AM
Oscar Oscar is offline
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Originally Posted by CALWATERBOY DUE View Post
Whatsa OFHG?

Torque given in Post #6 - drill down HERE -or- let Google be your guide.

Now then. New plugs every 40-45k mi please, and walnut blast about every 60k mi or less.
I have searched much, but pardon me for asking.

Do the instructions in the link apply to the N52 as well? Why are there a number of posts in this forum where their car is not running cleanly after they DIY plug changes?
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  #7  
Old 09-14-2015, 11:23 AM
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CALWATERBOY DUE CALWATERBOY DUE is offline
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Originally Posted by Oscar View Post
I have searched much, but pardon me for asking.

Do the instructions in the link apply to the N52 as well? Why are there a number of posts in this forum where their car is not running cleanly after they DIY plug changes?
Yes, and [click here] - note photos don't apply to N52

.

Last edited by CALWATERBOY DUE; 09-14-2015 at 11:25 AM.
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  #8  
Old 09-14-2015, 02:03 PM
Oscar Oscar is offline
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Originally Posted by CALWATERBOY DUE View Post
Yes, and [click here] - note photos don't apply to N52

.
I should explain a bit more: I believe that I saw some posts where the person was not experiencing any codes prior to the spark plug change. It was only after the plug change, that they started experiencing issues (lumpey idle, codes, etc.)

This user error behaviour worries me a bit. I just don't want to mess it up.
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  #9  
Old 09-14-2015, 02:20 PM
fdriller9 fdriller9 is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oscar View Post
I should explain a bit more: I believe that I saw some posts where the person was not experiencing any codes prior to the spark plug change. It was only after the plug change, that they started experiencing issues (lumpey idle, codes, etc.)

This user error behaviour worries me a bit. I just don't want to mess it up.
This is often due to the user not checking gap before installing the plugs.

OEM plugs should be gapped correctly.

Aftermarket plugs, which people on these forums often use, may claim to be pregapped. However, what people don't realize is that aftermarket plugs can be made for multiple applications. So while the plugs may be gapped correctly for one car, they may be completely wrong for another.

In general, always check the gap before install. Even the OEM plugs can have the wrong spec. One bump from shipping or dropping the plug can alter the gap spec.

When I changed my plugs at 80k miles, I didn't notice any difference. Motor performed and idled exactly the same.
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Last edited by fdriller9; 09-14-2015 at 02:21 PM.
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  #10  
Old 09-14-2015, 07:08 PM
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blue boy blue boy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmvoss View Post
Hello BMW Owners,

A newbie of maintaining a 2007 335i Twin Turbo.
1. Replaced OFHG
2. Replaced Cylinder Head Gasket or Valve Cover gasket depending on forums or Bentely manual.
3.Waiting for New Spark Plugs from Burger Motor Sports NGK's.
? Torques Specs for these plugs?
Replaced old spark plugs in process dropped one that goes in cylinder 2 gap messed up. So, car is not running correctly. Good news have new plugs coming tomorrow. Torque Specifics please. with or without anti-sieze?
additionally you can search (for what is worth) for mike miller maintenance schedule, if i remember correctly he recommends 22 ft lbs. for plugs
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  #11  
Old 09-14-2015, 07:28 PM
jmvoss jmvoss is offline
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Spark plug change

Put new plug in after gapping them to .022
NGK IR, little rough idle to start but smoothed out. Possibly due to DCI installed as well and. Imputed hadn't had time to adjust to the new peramiters yet? Will drive 50 miles tomorrow will let you guys know.
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  #12  
Old 09-14-2015, 09:26 PM
Cory S Cory S is offline
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If it's a gasketed plug, you tightened hand snug, then 3/4 turn additional.

If it's a tapered seat plug, you tighten hand snug, then an additional 1/16 turn.

Always use anti-seize (sparingly) on a few plug threads when threading into an aluminum cylinder head. Key word here, is "Sparingly". Just a light film on a few threads. Make sure you use Permatex silver or copper anti-sieze or equivalent. This will still allow the plug to be grounded, and prevent galling of the aluminum threads in the cylinder head.

Also use dilectric grease on the plug tops to prevent corrosion.

ALWAYS check for proper gap when applicable, whether the plugs are pre-gapped or not.
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  #13  
Old 09-14-2015, 09:32 PM
jiveturky1 jiveturky1 is offline
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This is one job where you can tighten by feel. There's a very obvious point where it gets solid. Stop there.

-T
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  #14  
Old 09-15-2015, 03:46 AM
jmvoss jmvoss is offline
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Thanks for information all, indeed I just tightened by hand then snugged it up with socket and wrench. No misfires all cylinders are working. Still have SERVICE ENGINE SOON light on. Have driven around 45 miles since changing all 6 spark plugs. Also still smell oil burning even though no visible leaks. I have changed oil filter housing gasket and valve cover gasket/cylinder valve gasket. Any suggestions
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  #15  
Old 09-15-2015, 03:56 AM
Oscar Oscar is offline
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A big thanks to fdriller9 and everyone else for the help.
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  #16  
Old 09-15-2015, 04:44 AM
Boland01 Boland01 is offline
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If you've got a torque wrench I believe the correct torque spec is 17 ft/lbs. or 23 n/m for your car. That's what I used at least when I changed mine last.
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Old 09-15-2015, 05:36 AM
fdriller9 fdriller9 is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boland01 View Post
If you've got a torque wrench I believe the correct torque spec is 17 ft/lbs. or 23 n/m for your car. That's what I used at least when I changed mine last.
Most torque wrenches cannot measure ft-lbs that low.

You will need an in-lb torque wrench....hence why I suggested hand tight and an additional 90 degrees.

Also to the person who says to use anti-seize.....BMW specifically calls for no anti-seize, FWIW.
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Old 09-15-2015, 05:39 AM
fdriller9 fdriller9 is online now
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Originally Posted by jmvoss View Post
Thanks for information all, indeed I just tightened by hand then snugged it up with socket and wrench. No misfires all cylinders are working. Still have SERVICE ENGINE SOON light on. Have driven around 45 miles since changing all 6 spark plugs. Also still smell oil burning even though no visible leaks. I have changed oil filter housing gasket and valve cover gasket/cylinder valve gasket. Any suggestions
It will take some time for the misfire code to clear it self.

Can be anywhere from 20-150 miles.

You could go to a local auto parts store and ask them to clear it for you. For DME and misfire faults, generic scanner will be able to clear them just fine. Though I recommend you try and get a list of faults to see if anything else is acting up.
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Old 09-15-2015, 05:46 AM
jmvoss jmvoss is offline
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Smile Misfire codes

Okay thanks for info, I did take it to Auto Z..... They ran a scan and could only pull the misfire I had on cylinder 2. Plug was accidentally dropped while reinstalling, was going to change plugs anyway. Also, O2 sensor fault, he mentioned that due to misfire that may have caused that sensor to have a fault. He also said drive for a couple of days and the computer should clear itself. Thanks for info
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Old 09-15-2015, 06:03 AM
Cory S Cory S is offline
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Originally Posted by fdriller9 View Post

Also to the person who says to use anti-seize.....BMW specifically calls for no anti-seize, FWIW.
Yeah, but after seeing what people can do to aluminum cylinder head threads by over tightening steel into aluminum by the hundreds of failed examples, I always recommend just a slight amount on a few threads. Never hurt anything, and ALWAYS prevents problems.
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Old 09-15-2015, 06:10 AM
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James57 James57 is offline
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Originally Posted by fdriller9 View Post
Most torque wrenches cannot measure ft-lbs that low.

You will need an in-lb torque wrench....hence why I suggested hand tight and an additional 90 degrees.

Also to the person who says to use anti-seize.....BMW specifically calls for no anti-seize, FWIW.
Well, they measure them that low -- at least mine, which goes down to 10 ft-lbs, does -- but the real concern is how accurate they are that low.
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Old 09-15-2015, 06:32 AM
veery veery is offline
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Originally Posted by Cory S View Post
Yeah, but after seeing what people can do to aluminum cylinder head threads by over tightening steel into aluminum by the hundreds of failed examples, I always recommend just a slight amount on a few threads. Never hurt anything, and ALWAYS prevents problems.
Anti-seize can mess with achieving correct torque, and it is possible to over-tighten inadvertently and cause head thread damage.
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Old 09-15-2015, 07:20 AM
jmvoss jmvoss is offline
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Yea tried using my torque wrench but I think whoever said it will not work for 18 lbs torque was right. So after the first plug when the torque wrench just kept going I stopped backed it out, then threaded hand tight then snugged it up and everything seems fine. Of course, it's fine for now, but let's see in a week or so.
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Old 09-15-2015, 08:25 AM
R ODonnell R ODonnell is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cory S View Post
Yeah, but after seeing what people can do to aluminum cylinder head threads by over tightening steel into aluminum by the hundreds of failed examples, I always recommend just a slight amount on a few threads. Never hurt anything, and ALWAYS prevents problems.
I use anti seize as well. I like this one the best.

http://www.liqui-moly.com/liquimoly/...cument&land=US

I also agree with fdriller9 on his torque procedure (snug plus 90 with new plugs). I've changed my plugs twice using this procedure and all has been well. It also negates the problem with incorrect torque readings with anti seize.
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  #25  
Old 09-15-2015, 08:37 AM
fdriller9 fdriller9 is online now
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Well, they measure them that low -- at least mine, which goes down to 10 ft-lbs, does -- but the real concern is how accurate they are that low.
Yes most will have the ability to set the wrench as low as that but the bolts keep spinning and you end up putting more torque on the bolt.

You need an in-lb torque wrench to get an accurate reading. They are more sensitive at that low of a spec.
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