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E90/E91/E92/E93 (2006 - 2013)
The E9X is the 4th evolution of the BMW 3 series including a highly tuned twin turbo 335i variant pushing out 300hp and 300 ft. lbs. of torque. BMW continues to show that it sets the bar for true driving performance! -- View the E9X Wiki

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  #1  
Old 06-26-2014, 10:59 PM
recoil_id recoil_id is offline
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Cooling fan

Tonight after I got in from work I turned my car off and the cooling fan is still running 2-3 minutes after I turned the car off. I've been going in sport mode to get better city mileage and it wasn't warm tonight so I'm not sure. I'm new to BMW so this might be a dumb question my car is 2006 330i e90
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  #2  
Old 06-28-2014, 11:41 PM
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The car will continue to run the cooling system even when you have stopped and turned off your car to cool the engine to a safe, "standby" temperature. Not sure if that one has the electric water pump but, in mine, it keeps flowing coolant through the engine and radiator with fan running at times to cool it down after I turn it off on very hot days.
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Old 06-29-2014, 07:27 AM
fdriller9 fdriller9 is offline
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If the fan was screaming and really loud, it could be a sign that the water pump is failing.

The fans don't stay on that long after shutting down. I was coding some cars yesterday and it was about 85-90 F here and I keep the engines running to prevent power loss.

The cars sat idling for about 20-30 minutes and after turning the car off, the fan shut down about 30 seconds later.

I know the temp on the dash is only ambient temp, but they are reading about 105-115f
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  #4  
Old 06-29-2014, 10:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fdriller9 View Post
If the fan was screaming and really loud, it could be a sign that the water pump is failing.

The fans don't stay on that long after shutting down. I was coding some cars yesterday and it was about 85-90 F here and I keep the engines running to prevent power loss.

The cars sat idling for about 20-30 minutes and after turning the car off, the fan shut down about 30 seconds later.

I know the temp on the dash is only ambient temp, but they are reading about 105-115f
GREAT CALLOUT! Didn't even think of that but yes, if fan is overworking, pump may be underworking or not working. Take it to an INDY if not under warranty and see what they say. Semi-easy DIY but parts still a little stiff even ordering online (about $500.00 for both pump and T-Stat). Still, not a car killer and very common for us. DIY is available through BAVAUTO.com I believe.
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Old 06-30-2014, 04:57 AM
hondo402000 hondo402000 is offline
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Interesting, My 07 335I, the fan runs at High when the car is running in the driveway but only when the AC is on, IF I turn the AC off the fan goes to slow speed, and when I turn the car off the fan stops too, So I figure thats normal
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Old 06-30-2014, 01:43 PM
fdriller9 fdriller9 is offline
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Interesting, My 07 335I, the fan runs at High when the car is running in the driveway but only when the AC is on, IF I turn the AC off the fan goes to slow speed, and when I turn the car off the fan stops too, So I figure thats normal
Yea that's normal. When the AC is on, it is quite loud. You can also notice the idle raise just slightly. But you will notice when the radiator fan is on full blast. It's just screaming loud
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Old 10-08-2014, 06:57 PM
mossman35 mossman35 is offline
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Just read this. I pulled into my parking garage last night and tonight and the radiator fan was SCREAMING loud. It echoed in the garage much louder than the engine. Outside temp was in the 50's car had been driven for 30 minutes and oil temp was 220F. It is always right around 240F where it should be.

Car is still under new car warranty. Problem is, I am driving 5 hours to NY tomorrow. I am thinking of stopping by the dealer first to have them check it out. Any thoughts? Could it be water pump with very low oil temp?? Any help would be appreciated.

I am guessing it's really bad to attempt to drive to NY for the weekend.
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  #8  
Old 10-08-2014, 08:40 PM
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Warning lights coming on or just going off sound?
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Old 10-08-2014, 09:11 PM
bimmerbingo bimmerbingo is offline
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Originally Posted by sptt144 View Post
The car will continue to run the cooling system even when you have stopped and turned off your car to cool the engine to a safe, "standby" temperature. Not sure if that one has the electric water pump but, in mine, it keeps flowing coolant through the engine and radiator with fan running at times to cool it down after I turn it off on very hot days.
This is interesting. My '07 328i coupe with AT transmission never cools itself after turning the engine off. The 2015 328d I had for two weeks did that despite its slower engine (180hp). Should I be worried? The oil temperature needle sits at about 270F after driving on the highway.

Sorry if I have hijacked this thread.
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  #10  
Old 10-08-2014, 10:00 PM
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You shouldn't have an oil temp sensor on your dash. They are on the turbo engines. You are looking at coolant which is a normal hot temperature on most engines in warm weather. You have an OZS (oil conditioning sensor) that will tell you if your oil is bad but you shouldn't be cooking your oil without turbos.
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Old 10-08-2014, 10:52 PM
bimmerbingo bimmerbingo is offline
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Oh, that's what it is...
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  #12  
Old 10-09-2014, 04:12 AM
mossman35 mossman35 is offline
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Originally Posted by sptt144 View Post
Warning lights coming on or just going off sound?
I am just going by sound. No warning lights. It's been two days in a row and the fan is crazy loud that I can hear it as I pull in the garage. Never heard that noise in 3.5 years driving the car even on hot days. Must be something up.

Maybe the dealer can at least read the shadow codes. The car is a 2011 and only has 38k miles on it.
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  #13  
Old 10-09-2014, 04:44 AM
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CALWATERBOY DUE CALWATERBOY DUE is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bimmerbingo View Post
This is interesting. My '07 328i coupe with AT transmission never cools itself after turning the engine off. The 2015 328d I had for two weeks did that despite its slower engine (180hp). Should I be worried? The oil temperature needle sits at about 270F after driving on the highway.

Sorry if I have hijacked this thread.

OK boys, let's get some perspectve....generally the water pump runs after shutdown to cool the turbos, thus bimmerbingo's observation above.

But a fan screaming in agony couple o'minutes after the fire dies prob a cooling sys fail, most often by far the pump.





This guy nails it right on down:


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  #14  
Old 10-09-2014, 05:02 AM
mossman35 mossman35 is offline
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Originally Posted by CALWATERBOY DUE View Post
OK boys, let's get some perspectve....generally the water pump runs after shutdown to cool the turbos, thus bimmerbingo's observation above.

But a fan screaming in agony couple o'minutes after the fire dies prob a cooling sys fail, most often by far the pump.





This guy nails it right on down:



Thanks Cal. I had already seen this video some time ago. Not exactly what my car is doing but could be early stages. The fan doesn't seem to ramp up to high until after 30 minutes of driving.... but maybe sooner.. hard to tell in traffic.

Also, no over heating warnings and the car is actually running too cold... 220. Could be normal for 30 minutes of driving but I normally see it at 240. Maybe early water pump problems. I'll see what dealer says.
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Old 10-09-2014, 07:49 AM
fdriller9 fdriller9 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sptt144 View Post
You shouldn't have an oil temp sensor on your dash. They are on the turbo engines. You are looking at coolant which is a normal hot temperature on most engines in warm weather. You have an OZS (oil conditioning sensor) that will tell you if your oil is bad but you shouldn't be cooking your oil without turbos.
I have never seen a coolant temp gauge in an E9x.

It's either an instantaneous MPG gauge or an oil temp gauge.
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Old 10-09-2014, 07:52 AM
fdriller9 fdriller9 is offline
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I am just going by sound. No warning lights. It's been two days in a row and the fan is crazy loud that I can hear it as I pull in the garage. Never heard that noise in 3.5 years driving the car even on hot days. Must be something up.

Maybe the dealer can at least read the shadow codes. The car is a 2011 and only has 38k miles on it.
If the fan is screaming at you, I'm almost positive the water pump is failing.

If there is a shadow fault indicating a deviation in pump speed, your pump is failing.

Don't take it to your dealer. They will charge you an hour to simply plug in a scan tool and clear the faults. They will tell you nothing is wrong and that your car is fine.

They will only take action if there is a hard fault or you make a huge deal but if don't know what codes are stored, you don't have any argument.

Take it to an indy BMW shop and have them read out the faults and print you the fault list. They will need a BMW specific scanner to pull shadow faults
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  #17  
Old 10-09-2014, 07:58 AM
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CALWATERBOY DUE CALWATERBOY DUE is offline
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Originally Posted by fdriller9 View Post
If the fan is screaming at you, I'm almost positive the water pump is failing.

If there is a shadow fault indicating a deviation in pump speed, your pump is failing.

Don't take it to your dealer. They will charge you an hour to simply plug in a scan tool and clear the faults. They will tell you nothing is wrong and that your car is fine.

They will only take action if there is a hard fault or you make a huge deal but if don't know what codes are stored, you don't have any argument.

Take it to an indy BMW shop and have them read out the faults and print you the fault list. They will need a BMW specific scanner to pull shadow faults

This advice rated: GRADE A+
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Old 10-09-2014, 08:08 AM
mossman35 mossman35 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fdriller9 View Post
If the fan is screaming at you, I'm almost positive the water pump is failing.

If there is a shadow fault indicating a deviation in pump speed, your pump is failing.

Don't take it to your dealer. They will charge you an hour to simply plug in a scan tool and clear the faults. They will tell you nothing is wrong and that your car is fine.

They will only take action if there is a hard fault or you make a huge deal but if don't know what codes are stored, you don't have any argument.

Take it to an indy BMW shop and have them read out the faults and print you the fault list. They will need a BMW specific scanner to pull shadow faults
Was hoping you would reply. My car is still under the full 4 year warranty so they won't charge me anything.

Might be related but I have another issue this week. Sometimes when trying to accelerate, the power drops to nothing. First few times it happened I thought it was traction control but no flashing lights. This morning it did it after switching to 3rd and there were no leaves, or anything to cause traction control to kick in. It must be related. Did this 3 times this week.

I also can feel my AC surging slightly when outside temp is 68 degrees.

I am wondering if this can all be related to a bad battery possibly?
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Old 10-09-2014, 08:17 AM
fdriller9 fdriller9 is offline
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Could be. Regardless of the issues in your car, if you think the battery is weak, have it load tested. Any auto parts store will do this for free if you bring them the battery out of the car. It would be best to do this after a long drive, so the battery is somewhat topped off. Or if you have a tender, put the tender on the battery overnight before having it tested.

On average batteries last about 4-5 years in these cars. My battery was replaced in 2010 and I am starting to get slow cranks with this colder weather. I will need to change mine before it gets too cold.

If it's bad, have it replaced and registered. Then see if the other issues persist.

The AC surging and the loss of power could be a misfire. Does the car shake when this happens? When you're parked and idling, is it shaking? Slightly? Violently?
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Last edited by fdriller9; 10-09-2014 at 08:20 AM.
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Old 10-09-2014, 08:19 AM
mossman35 mossman35 is offline
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Originally Posted by fdriller9 View Post
Could be. Regardless of the issues in your car, if you think the battery is weak, have it load tested. Any auto parts store will do this for free if you bring them the battery out of the car.

On average batteries last about 4-5 years in these cars. My battery was replaced in 2010 and I am starting to get slow cranks with this colder weather. I will need to change mine before it gets too cold.

If it's bad, have it replaced and registered. Then see if the other issues persist.

The AC surging and the loss of power could be a misfire. Does the car shake when this happens? When you're parked and idling, is it shaking? Slightly? Violently?
Car doesn't shake at all. Surging AC happens when outside temp is between 65 and 70. No violently shaking or anything. Power is just gone!! Just like traction control.
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Old 10-09-2014, 08:24 AM
fdriller9 fdriller9 is offline
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Check the tensioner and the belt then.

If the belt is slipping, this would explain your AC surging.

It may also explain your power loss. If the alternator is also slipping, ignition coils won't fire properly. If the alternator is not putting out the power the water pump needs, this could also explain your radiator fan screaming.

When looking at the tensioner, note the belt location. If it's walking off the tensioner, you NEED to replace the tensioner and while your there, the belt and idler pulley.

ECS sells a contitech kit with everything you need to service the belt, tensioner, and idler pulley for a very good price....minus tools. But you don't need many. Few torx bits and sockets.

Some 335s also suffer from a design flaw where the power steering pulley rubs against the subframe and damages the belt. Check this as well
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Last edited by fdriller9; 10-09-2014 at 08:29 AM.
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Old 10-09-2014, 08:57 AM
mossman35 mossman35 is offline
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Originally Posted by fdriller9 View Post
Check the tensioner and the belt then.

If the belt is slipping, this would explain your AC surging.

It may also explain your power loss. If the alternator is also slipping, ignition coils won't fire properly. If the alternator is not putting out the power the water pump needs, this could also explain your radiator fan screaming.

When looking at the tensioner, note the belt location. If it's walking off the tensioner, you NEED to replace the tensioner and while your there, the belt and idler pulley.

ECS sells a contitech kit with everything you need to service the belt, tensioner, and idler pulley for a very good price....minus tools. But you don't need many. Few torx bits and sockets.

Some 335s also suffer from a design flaw where the power steering pulley rubs against the subframe and damages the belt. Check this as well

Thanks this helps. It's good to have an idea before going to dealer. They are actually pretty good compared to stories I hear on this forum. They do actually fix my car.

When I go in with my fan screaming it's obvious its' a problem. I'll let you know what happens.
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Old 10-09-2014, 09:39 AM
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I would definitely take it in ASAP. Heck you mostly likely get a loaner which you can thrash on your trip.

Definitely keep us posted.
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Old 10-09-2014, 09:42 AM
mossman35 mossman35 is offline
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I would definitely take it in ASAP. Heck you mostly likely get a loaner which you can thrash on your trip.

Definitely keep us posted.
Hope I get a loaner. They are hesitant to give them out over the weekend, but hoping.. fingers crossed.
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Old 10-09-2014, 11:03 AM
fdriller9 fdriller9 is offline
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Call ahead to reverse one
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