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7 Series - E38 (1995 - 2001)

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  #26  
Old 02-14-2013, 04:53 PM
jitsjaf2009 jitsjaf2009 is offline
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Mein Auto: 1995 325i Convertible
This may be a dumb question. Dis you check the starter itself? May have died after that one start and the headlights versus non-start are two separate problems.
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  #27  
Old 02-15-2013, 07:06 AM
edognight edognight is offline
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Mein Auto: 1997 e38. schwartzx2
I jumped a wire to it, and it will spin, but the solenoid will not engage. So it will not crank, but will spin with a hot wire to it, so maybe it is the starter. The light do not dim, like there is any current going to it, and I can't get a peep out of it, but it is certainly possible.
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  #28  
Old 02-15-2013, 07:50 AM
jitsjaf2009 jitsjaf2009 is offline
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It may be the starter solonoid, which I think on these is mounted on the starter. Coil or contacts in these can fail without warning, usually with just a couple prior "stumble". If you locate it, and determine which (smaller) is the solonoid engage power, check it for 12vdc when key is in the start position. If not trace back or it is your immobilizer. You can also run a "hot" lead jumper from positive to the terminal on the coil to see if it 'kicks'.
Starter spins, so it is good.
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  #29  
Old 02-16-2013, 08:43 AM
edognight edognight is offline
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I did jump the starter with a hot wire, but it will not crank, and also the trip wires to the starter do nothing when the ig switch is turned, but I haven't checked it since I changed out the fuse box.

The high out is 10 deg. F and I don't have a garage.

TO my way of thinking if the trip wires from the car aren't firing, then the car is not authorizing a start.

I asked around, and someone said you cannot jump a 7 series because the ground won't work, but I don't understand that. I don't think the starter is as smart as that. IF it gets 12volt to the trip wire, the solenoid connects and it will crank, but the ignition and fuel pump working is another issue.

But I think you are right about the starter, and I will take it out and check some things, and I do thank you for the help. Also, clean the contact to the block, is this where the starter is grounded??

This has been a real bear to fix, but I appreciate your help. !
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  #30  
Old 03-29-2013, 04:58 PM
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catso catso is offline
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Location: Chicago
 
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Mein Auto: 2000 323i, 1988 528e
So, any luck getting your car to start?
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  #31  
Old 03-30-2013, 07:16 AM
edognight edognight is offline
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Mein Auto: 1997 e38. schwartzx2
no, but thank you for asking

I have now cleared the snow, and I found that the car starter will work when jumped with a screwdriver. Cranks like a madman!

SO. I know the starter is good. I know the ignition switch is ordering a start, and I know that the tripwire to the starter is NOT sending the message. I am betting 70$ it's the ews. I ordered the reader / tool and a 20 pin adaptor, so I will know soon enough.

Also, I am going to get a new ignition switch housing, and put the clamshell stuff back together, because it is severely weathered from sittin in a car with flooded floorboards...

Thanks for the help on this site!

It's a project car that I didn't pay very much for, but it is fun fixing up old cars, and I just love an e38.
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  #32  
Old 03-30-2013, 11:13 AM
jitsjaf2009 jitsjaf2009 is offline
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At least you don't need to replace the starter. The e38 is a beautiful car, but the electrical engineers were really tripping when they did their part. I am 'crossing my fingers for' a simple and quick resolution for you.
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  #33  
Old 04-16-2013, 11:44 AM
edognight edognight is offline
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Mein Auto: 1997 e38. schwartzx2
Charity bump on the no start.

Still stuck on the 7 project car. I did find out that the scanner I bought does say 'wrong key,' 'wrong code' and some other error messages.

I am now looking at the ring antennae after doing some research.

Does anybody have any info on the BMW software, which one is good with trouble shooting?

Or maybe a good indie in twin cities? Or maybe a part out? I am getting sick of the BMW overengineered electronics. Just not worth it.
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  #34  
Old 04-16-2013, 11:57 AM
jitsjaf2009 jitsjaf2009 is offline
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The Bentley Manual is the very best, but my friend tells me you can google just about any of it anymore. Just noticed you are from St. Paul. I left Pipestone, Minnesota about 50 years ago other than going back to visit family. St. Paul was my idea of a really big city back then...fond memories of it.
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  #35  
Old 04-16-2013, 01:48 PM
edognight edognight is offline
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Mein Auto: 1997 e38. schwartzx2
found a wiring diagram

I found a wiring diagram online, and that helped, but I think I need one of three things:

A good trouble shooting guide
A good Indy
A complete effing part out! I am so frustrated!!!

I get fixated on problems and can't stop!!!

Vent over, thanks....
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  #36  
Old 04-16-2013, 01:52 PM
jitsjaf2009 jitsjaf2009 is offline
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Wow...that was mild...you should see my "hissy-fits"....
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  #37  
Old 07-23-2013, 12:20 PM
edognight edognight is offline
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I got a unlocked DME from Canada, and boy did that thing start beautifully. I like I like. This ended almost six months of 'no start' research and fear of having to go to the dealer and being taken for a ride. I just realized I didn't clean this thread up, and in case someone needed help, You go to RPM motorsports in BC Canada, mail them your DME and they will blank the EWS and all security stuff. I took the car to the Indy here in Twin Cities, (JB Eurotech didn't even charge me to tell me 'I can fix it, but it might be more than 500$, just get an unlocked DME and be done with it. He was pretty sure something was bad, but it would be hard to diagnose) I really do respect them for this, because I would have been steamed if I had a 1300$ bill on a 900$ car. Plus they seemed a little put off because my car is all taken apart and looks like an extra in The Road Warrior.

This was a very difficult problem to diagnose, and I found exactly one thread, I believe the guy was from overseas, and he had the exact problem I had, and same error message on PA soft (starter disabled) and he bought a key, DME, EWS and lock tumblers. So I am not exactly happy with 500$, but it isn't the end of the world either. I am pretty sure the car's battery was low (and the seller had the wrong battery anyway) and that ticked off the EWS, and long story short, it starts, and I do not foresee and more no start problems in my immediate future.

In the end, this was a tough one, and all of the traditional automotive 'no start' logic just didn't apply. If I had it to do over again, I would have bought the key, DME, EWS package because I found one for $250, but oh well. This car drives like 10,000$ for $1000, and I am happy.
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  #38  
Old 07-23-2013, 12:43 PM
jitsjaf2009 jitsjaf2009 is offline
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Wow...thanks for getting back and letting us know your resolution. I am very happy for you being on the road and enjoying your machine. And thanks for the resource.
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  #39  
Old 07-23-2013, 04:55 PM
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Good to hear that you solved your problem. Persistence usually pays off!
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  #40  
Old 07-23-2013, 05:33 PM
Mayorchuck Mayorchuck is offline
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Just read thru this. Glad you got it going. Sounds like the EWS/DME lost sync. Seen this happen a few times with battery/electrical issues. Did you find the source of your water leak? Hate to see clogged sunroof drains start the mess all over again.
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  #41  
Old 07-24-2013, 08:10 AM
edognight edognight is offline
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Mein Auto: 1997 e38. schwartzx2
Water Leak

So while the car was at the Indy, it sat outside, and I figured it would fill up with water again, but not a drop! I think the water was sabotage at some level, because this car does not leak at all.

It went through a few horrible rain storms, and not a drop. Either it is related to a freeze, thaw thing, or done on purpose, and who knows...

But a dry floorboard is a wonderful thing.
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  #42  
Old 07-24-2013, 10:55 AM
umewes umewes is offline
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Mein Auto: 2001 740i
I had water collecting on floor behind passenger seat because of clogged sun roof drain.
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