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X1 E84 (2011 - 2015)
First generation BMW X1 availbe as a X1 28i with either sDrive (RWD) or xDrive (AWD) or the US exclusive I6 N55 powered X1 35i xDrive.

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  #1  
Old 02-17-2017, 03:20 PM
vstolpner vstolpner is offline
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Location: Vancouver, BC
 
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Mein Auto: 2013 BMW X1 xdrive28i
Brake pad wear

Hi everyone,
So my car is getting serviced and I got a call saying that my inner pads are practically done when my outside pads are practically new.

The advisor said that this is a normal occurrence but is the first time I've ever heard of this happening.

Has anyone heard of this before?

Thanks in advance!!
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  #2  
Old 02-17-2017, 06:34 PM
0w40X1 0w40X1 is offline
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Yeah, it is fairly common.

Maybe the slider is tight.

The BMW I believe keeps the slack out brakes for quick stop, and maybe outside is loose while inside is always touching harder.

I don't have much stop and go driving, but will probably get 40-50k miles out of them, and I've also been to 5 high speed hard braking track days.
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  #3  
Old 02-17-2017, 06:41 PM
vstolpner vstolpner is offline
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Yeah, I haven't been to any track days, and the car is at 44k miles. I don't think I've ever seen brake wear this fast...
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  #4  
Old 02-17-2017, 08:15 PM
0w40X1 0w40X1 is offline
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Brake pad replacement is pretty easy, and you can check caliper of ease of sliding while there.

Tirerack has great reviews of BMW or others use of Centric posi-quiet ceramic brake pads.

They claim to be long wearing and less dust while still giving great stopping power.
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  #5  
Old 02-19-2017, 10:50 PM
vstolpner vstolpner is offline
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Location: Vancouver, BC
 
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Mein Auto: 2013 BMW X1 xdrive28i
So finally got the wheels off and used my caliper to get all the measurements. Wanted to see if anyone has experience of this being normal or not?

Front right pad 6.3 inside / 7.9 outside
Front left pad 3.7 inside / 8.9 outside
Front left disc 7.4mm

Also, since I'm going to be replacing pads anyway, any suggestions? Anyone do any comparisons between OEM and aftermarket?


Lastly - the rotors are smooth but there are some ridges, so I'm wondering if I should be replacing them at the same time? Don't feel like shelling out an extra $150 if I don't have to.

Again, any recommendations or experiences would be great ... Thanks!!
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  #6  
Old 03-18-2017, 11:32 AM
icesailor icesailor is offline
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Mein Auto: 2001 325 XI Wagon
Sounds like there's still pressure on the calipers. Are you one that rides the brakes to get that little advantage over the others around you? Here in South Florida, where Speed Limit signs are just a "Suggestion", I notice that many have their brake lights on regularly. A sure sign of "Left foot on the brake, right foot on the gas".

Then, there's always the massive puddles from poor roadwork maintenance. If the caliper doesn't slide easily on the slide, it can hold pressure on one side of the pads, causing excessive wear. One side is fixed. The other side slides. Which side is the wear on.

As far as rotors, they make them cheap now. Really thin. If you try to re-grind them, they often become too thin and heat up badly. That's why they are always trying to sell you new rotors. Its also because the of rotors may have developed "Hot Spots" where the rotor has overheated in spots, changing the metal structure on spots. The cast iron of the rotor becomes soft. If you have ridges in the old rotors, there can be hot spots under the ridges.

If you drive like South Florida drivers, you really might consider changing the rotors if it is honestly suggested. I'd also suggest that you be sure that the place that the caliper slides on isn't rusty. If it is, clean it with sand cloth after you have pushed the Caliper out and spoge some Never Seize where the slide runs. Making sure it is under where the Caliper stops where the pad hits the rotor. That has always worked for me.

JMO.
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  #7  
Old 03-18-2017, 03:11 PM
vstolpner vstolpner is offline
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In the end I decided to change the rotors too. Though should have taken more time to measure the rotors more carefully after the calipers were off - ended up being 23.8mm and not 22.8mm as I thought. Instead I slapped the new rotors on, broke them in a bit and then decided to measure the old ones... Oops.

Went with Textar ePad brake pads... Probably shouldn't have done that as they don't have the same bite and are $40 more. Brake dust remains to be seen, as is emergency braking response. If they don't bake well in an emergency situation they're going in the dumpster.
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  #8  
Old 03-18-2017, 05:06 PM
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stonex1 stonex1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vstolpner View Post
In the end I decided to change the rotors too. Though should have taken more time to measure the rotors more carefully after the calipers were off - ended up being 23.8mm and not 22.8mm as I thought. Instead I slapped the new rotors on, broke them in a bit and then decided to measure the old ones... Oops.

Went with Textar ePad brake pads... Probably shouldn't have done that as they don't have the same bite and are $40 more. Brake dust remains to be seen, as is emergency braking response. If they don't bake well in an emergency situation they're going in the dumpster.
Good stuff on the rotors!
Was it a DIY?
I was thinking if I were to replace brake pads in the near future, I would consider rotors too.
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  #9  
Old 03-18-2017, 06:34 PM
vstolpner vstolpner is offline
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Location: Vancouver, BC
 
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Mein Auto: 2013 BMW X1 xdrive28i
Definitely get a caliper (the measuring tool) first and check the rotors. Mine were around 90% compared to the new ones.
Unless you track your car or they're very worn/grooved of course.

To check properly with a caliper you'll have to take the brake caliper and pads off to get good access to the rotor.

And it was totally DIY. Look on YouTube for E90 brake pad and rotor replacement videos. Took me 1.5 hours for the first side (but I was taking photos), second side was 30 minutes.
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