1995 540i won't start

I parked my '95 540i in the garage for 7 days and when I went to start it won't start. 175,000miles on car.

- It will crank over till the cows come up and I have a battery charger on it so it will keep cranking
- I pulled all 8 plugs and they all have spark

- I pulled the fuel filter inlet and verified that the fuel pump comes on when the engine is cranked over using the key

- I pulled the filter outlet and verified fuel pump comes on when the engine is cranked over using the key

- I pulled the fuel rail inlet and verified fuel pump comes on when the engine is cranked over using the key

- I pulled the fuel rail outlet and verified fuel pump comes past the fuel pressure regulator when cranked over using the key

I have 2 codes using the stomp test - mass airflow sensor and air temperature sensor. Neither of these would keep the engine from starting.

So, I have spark, air, and fuel.

What else can I look at?

Rick in Ohio

Welcome to the Fest. Your situation seems to be perplexing for sure. How did the plugs look when you pulled them? Were they wet from all of the cranking? I don't know what could cause it, but it almost sounds like the injectors aren't firing, even though they have fuel

I think you are right that typically, a bad MAF will not cause a no-start, but not 100% sure on that. Did you try disconnecting it to see what happens?

Here is a guide that may prove helpful:

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...&highlight=m20

Also, some here who are more familiar with the M60 may be able to provide an answer.

Good luck and I'll be watching this thread to see what the problem turns out to be.

Thanks for the reply.
The MAF and air temp codes have been on for the last 50,000 miles and the car ran fine except rough when cold. So that's not the issue here.
The plugs appeared normal meaning not wet with fuel or oil soaked. I cleaned them and verified spark on all 8 plugs.
Wierd because it ran fine when I parked it but now it just cranks over. If I continue to crank long and hard it will 'almost' seem to fire on one cylinder but will not 'catch'.
I also tried removing the air inlet by the MAF sensor and I poured in a bit of fuel and cranked with not even a sputter. Also tried starting fluid st the same location to no avail.
Could a crank or cam sensor have failed somehow while sitting for one week?
Rick in Ohio

Originally Posted by rv6rick

Thanks for the reply.
The MAF and air temp codes have been on for the last 50,000 miles and the car ran fine except rough when cold. So that's not the issue here.
The plugs appeared normal meaning not wet with fuel or oil soaked. I cleaned them and verified spark on all 8 plugs.
Wierd because it ran fine when I parked it but now it just cranks over. If I continue to crank long and hard it will 'almost' seem to fire on one cylinder but will not 'catch'.
I also tried removing the air inlet by the MAF sensor and I poured in a bit of fuel and cranked with not even a sputter. Also tried starting fluid st the same location to no avail.
Could a crank or cam sensor have failed somehow while sitting for one week?
Rick in Ohio

It's certainly possible that the crankshaft or camshaft position sensor has failed, but with a failed crankshaft position sensor (CPS) you get no spark and no fuel. A failed camshaft position sensor does not usually cause a no-start, but it would be conceivable. I would recommend checking the CPS resistance, but since it is giving spark, I doubt that is the problem.

I don’t know if you have the Bentley manual or not, but it is invaluable in helping with these types of situations. Here is a post that has a link to a searchable version of it:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...hlight=playboy

Keep plugging away and you will get it figured out. I wish I had more to offer, but I am just not terribly familiar with the M60. All of my experience has been on the M50, M50TU and M52 (little experience there).

Please share how you tested for spark thanks.

I tested spark by removing each plug and grounding it to the closest metal on the body or engine. I then cranked the engine over and watched the plug fire repetitively. I did this 8 times for each spark plug to verify all of them.
I do have the 5 series service manual and agree to its value.
I just spent an hour on the phone with a BMW shop and they said that the crank and cam sensors would activate a code and there is no code showing, so I can probably eliminate that.
Rick in Ohio.

If you hace spark, then your crank sensors, coils, wiring, dme relay and dme are functioning fine.

You crank, so your battery, fusible link and starter is in good shape.

You say that your fueling is good too. I believe you.

Then you are lying to us hahaha !

Just kidding.

Please try this on for size;

1. Pull the fp fuse, hold the throttle open then crank for 10 seconds straight. This will purge your chambers of fuel.
2. Replace fuse, key2 the ignition for 10 seconds, hold the throttle open, then start the engine.
3 if this does not work, then hook up another car to yours jump style, have them start and hold the rpms at 2k, then start the car. I have read that inadequately powered starters may crank but not fast enough to compress the mixture properly to ignite, when the engine is cold. Not sure about this at all right now but it may not be a coincidence that i encountered this info recently.

Your oil levels are good and you are using the right rating, i presume.

Sir you might have to doublecheck your fuel pump and relay checks.

It's on a battery charger so it cranks big time.
Will try the fuel pump fuse trick when I get home tonight, had to take the mini van to work.

Originally Posted by robertobaggio20

If you hace spark, then your crank sensors, coils, wiring, dme relay and dme are functioning fine.

You crank, so your battery, fusible link and starter is in good shape.

You say that your fueling is good too. I believe you.

Then you are lying to us hahaha !

Just kidding.

Please try this on for size;

1. Pull the fp fuse, hold the throttle open then crank for 10 seconds straight. This will purge your chambers of fuel.
2. Replace fuse, key2 the ignition for 10 seconds, hold the throttle open, then start the engine.
3 if this does not work, then hook up another car to yours jump style, have them start and hold the rpms at 2k, then start the car. I have read that inadequately powered starters may crank but not fast enough to compress the mixture properly to ignite, when the engine is cold. Not sure about this at all right now but it may not be a coincidence that i encountered this info recently.

Oil is perfect.
I'm setting up a 'T' for an inline gauge to verify the exact fuel pressure. Will check this after I get home as well.

Thanks everyone for your thoughts thus far.

Rick in Ohio

Originally Posted by robertobaggio20

Your oil levels are good and you are using the right rating, i presume.

Sir you might have to doublecheck your fuel pump and relay checks.

On the m50 engine, a failed caMshaft sensor makes no apperent difference to the starting and running of the engine. I once disconnected mine just to see what would happen.

So thats one less thing to worry about.

OP, there's a simple way for to test if you are getting fuel and if your fuel injectors are working. Pull one plug, blow into the chamber with a hose, and then take a sniff up close. You should not smell any fuel. Insert the plug into the coil's boot, hold it against ground (using rubber gloves or thick cloth), stuff the plug's well with a cloth and crank the engine for around 5 seconds. You should see spark (as you mentioned). Then sniff the plug's well after removing whatever was used to cover it.

If you can smell fresh gasoline, then your fuel injectors, and by extension, your entire fuel system, are working.

You must do a before and after sniff, to form a baseline to compare against.

In fact, when you were checking for spark, if you did not first pull the fp's fuse or relay, you should have smelled gas coming out the open plug well from the chamber, after cranking.

Good luck.



rgds,
Roberto

The more I think about this, the more it seems like a starter-related issue that causes it to spin just below the threshold needed to compress the f/a mixture properly on a cold engine to start it, and which otherwise seems and sounds normal enough to our ear. I would strongly advise the interlaced jump with another running car mentioned earlier, if the fuel delivery checks are ok.

Please also test out your battery's reserve charge using a digital battery reserve charge tester, when you can. Autozone has a complimentary service for this. Just to cover all the bases. Please change the battery if your reserve charge is under 25%.

Good luck.

Update on my 540i not starting, and thanks for all of the suggestions.

I left my gauge for 'T'ing' into the fuel line at work so I did a few other things:

- I pulled the fuel hose from the fuel rail and rechecked the fuel is coming in from the pump and filters....it is.

- I then reconnected the hose and turned on the key and cranked to fill the fuel rail.

- I pulled the fuse for the fuel pump as suggested and then I removed the fuel hose to the rail again and hooked up a hose from my air compressor and blew about 60 to 70 psi of air into the fuel rail. I could hear the air blowing back into the fuel tank so that told me that pressure regulator opened at some point.

- I then put the fuel pump fuse back in and hooked up the fuel line and refilled the rail. Then I pulled the fuse and unhooked the hose and hooked up my air compressor hose to the line while cranking the engine. Nothing.

- I then redid the same test while pinching off the fuel return hose just after the fuel pressure regulator to make sure it wasn't relieving at too low of pressure and cranked again...nothing.

- I then removed two spark plugs to verify that they were still sparking and they were big time. While the plugs were out I squirted starter fluid down into both cylinders thinking I'm going to get this baby to at least make a few 'pops and spits and a cough or two'. Put the plugs back in and cranked the engine and got NOTHING.

- Then I undid the air filter box and squirted plenty of starter fluid in there while my wife cranked and NOTHING.

I'm not getting a spit or even a cough and I KNOW it has spark and fuel.

On the cranking I have NOT hooked up jumper cables to the car yet but I know this car and I feel like it cranks VERY FAST. I'm watching the fan turn FAST and I removed the oil cap to make sure the timing chains are turning and they are. If you think I still need to hook up the cables I will as I'm stumped.

I'm going to pull the intake tube from the throttle body to make sure the butterfly is still attached. The actuating arm rotates with the throttle cables but I'm at a loss.

Again, I drove the car into the garage last week and turned it off and went on vacation in the mini van. When I got home the car wouldn't start.

What do you guys think????

Rick in Ohio

Please execute the the interlaced jumped start. We are running out of options. Another option would be the clutch-activated push start (manual tranny only), but if that doesn't work you have a very heavy baby to push back into position not a great option at all.

Originally Posted by rv6rick

- I pulled the fuse for the fuel pump as suggested and then I removed the fuel hose to the rail again and hooked up a hose from my air compressor and blew about 60 to 70 psi of air into the fuel rail. I could hear the air blowing back into the fuel tank so that told me that pressure regulator opened at some point.

- I then put the fuel pump fuse back in and hooked up the fuel line and refilled the rail. Then I pulled the fuse and unhooked the hose and hooked up my air compressor hose to the line while cranking the engine. Nothing.
Rick in Ohio

Erm...after you have purged the chambers of fuel (the first para quoted above), you are suppose to reinstall the fp fuse, repressurise the rail by holding at key2 for 10 seconds, and then proceed to start the engine normally. Unhooking the hose and feeding an air compressor through it while cranking and (presumably) expecting it to start is,.......a sign of great stress.

Alfred, bring us all a brandy immediately !

However, you have later stated that you used alot of starter fluid so fueling.......hmmm...


OF COURSE.....of course.......air filter.....is it new? Clogged ? Frozen to bits ? Remove the air filter from now till the point where you start the engine. Even if removing it and cranking (with fuel etc connected properly) does not work, keep it out of the air box while you try other things until you find and verify the problem and solution, then reinstall.

I'm sorry it seems almost trite to suggest this to you and you clearly are very familiar with cars, but we need to check and do the obvious at this stage.

And you have not confirmed that there is fuel reaching your chambers through your fuel injectors, via the test I suggested earlier. Please do that.

Please proceed methodically. You are likely making unforced errors, and then not realising that you have done so. This is a common phenomenon when we are wrestling with an angel.


rgds,
Roberto

Probably a long shot but is the exhaust system clear? We had an awful time recently starting a stored toyota truck. About the time it blew a rats nest out the tailpipe it started

1. Remove air filter from the air box. Fix the air box back in place.
2. Remove the jesus.....maf and air temp sensor codes. Delete your error codes immediately. Some engines do not start or die quickly when 2 driveability sensors are busted. We noticed this on an m52 engine last week when we did a disconnect test. A combination of the throttle position switch, idle control valve, maf, air temp sensor, ects....any two of these disconnected/busted could cause a no start problem. This was a very unexpected observation. I do not know if it will apply to your engine.
3. Check for error codes after each new test that you conduct to see if anything unexpected shows up. It would be a clue.
4. Confirm that fuel is being delivered by the injectors.
5. Try the interlaced jump start.
6. Check tailpipe for a clear channel as best as you can.
7. No pressure. Please be zen about it. As you go through the motions, the correct idea will hit you/ the right thing you have overlooked will be recalled. Music, beer and food helps. Elvis is good too. All this helps to keep your mind free for the critical leap that will come.


.

Can't thank you ALL enough for all the help. I talked to a BMW technician today as well that gave me 45 minutes on the phone for FREE!

I'm trying to be very systematic and think out of the box here. That is why I've tried to simulate various issues like forcing air with my compressor into a FULL fuel rail to make sure the pressure is adaquate and be sure that the line has been purged and is clear and the fuel pressure regulator is doing it's job.

I just this minute tried jumping the car with my other car and cables. It does turn a bit faster but not much and I KNOW it's turning over rapidly even with out the jump. Still, I'm doing everything you folks suggest.

I also removed the air filter 'just in case' and no joy there either.

What I don't understand is why I don't get a sputter or a cough when I shoot some starter fluid into the intake???

Someone suggested the key switch not connecting with the system when in the start mode. I can't jump start because it's an auto and yes it's very heavy! I hit the key switch and backed off the pressure slowly until the engine stops turning and repeated this many times. I also tried jerking the key off and start and off and start and still nothing.

I KNOW there is fuel getting through the injectors and into the chamber and I know there is spark.

Could something have happened to the timing?

Again, was running perfectly and sat in the garage for a week then no restart.

Can I jump the starter to bypass the key switch somehow? In the same connector where you jump the pins to reset the oil service lights?

No rats crawled into the tailpipe as far as I can tell?

Rick in Ohio

Originally Posted by robertobaggio20

1. Remove air filter from the air box. Fix the air box back in place.
2. Remove the jesus.....maf and air temp sensor codes. Delete your error codes immediately. Some engines do not start or die quickly when 2 driveability sensors are busted. We noticed this on an m52 engine last week when we did a disconnect test. A combination of the throttle position switch, idle control valve, maf, air temp sensor, ects....any two of these disconnected/busted could cause a no start problem. This was a very unexpected observation. I do not know if it will apply to your engine.
3. Check for error codes after each new test that you conduct to see if anything unexpected shows up. It would be a clue.
4. Confirm that fuel is being delivered by the injectors.
5. Try the interlaced jump start.
6. Check tailpipe for a clear channel as best as you can.
7. No pressure. Please be zen about it. As you go through the motions, the correct idea will hit you/ the right thing you have overlooked will be recalled. Music, beer and food helps. Elvis is good too. All this helps to keep your mind free for the critical leap that will come.


.

Forgot, how do I delete the 2 error codes? One is MAF sensor (1215) and the other is air sensor (1224).

Rick in Ohio and ready to give this car away.

Two long shots: Are the plugs wet adter your attempts to start? They should be. If not the injectors are not opening. How are the compression pressures?

Originally Posted by rv6rick

Forgot, how do I delete the 2 error codes? One is MAF sensor (1215) and the other is air sensor (1224).

Rick in Ohio and ready to give this car away.

Three possible ways:

1) To erase the fault code memory, first make sure the fault code 1000 (short blink and then the light goes out for a long period) is present, then depress the throttle fully for at least 10 seconds. Repeat the stomp test to look for code 1444 (no faults stored). - From Bentley manual

2) unplug DME for a minute or two

3) Disconnect battery for a minute or two

Originally Posted by BMWFatherFigure

Two long shots: Are the plugs wet adter your attempts to start? They should be. If not the injectors are not opening. How are the compression pressures?

My thoughts too (post #2)

Let's hope it is not a compression problem, I've never heard of a Nikisil issue happening all at once.

Wild and crazy longshot thought - Wonky DME causing injector/spark timing issue OP, don't suppose you have a friend with a 540 that you could swap out and try his DME do you?

If you have two ecus, try exchanging both. There will be no problems, the clamps are configured to let eaxh ecu know which bank it is controlling.
Before that, just unclamp and reclamp each ecu as it stands.

In fact try cleaning the contacts of the ecus and the ecu clamp. Do not spray contact cleaner directly onto either of these. Spray it onto a standard clean toothbrush and brush with medium force across the ecu leads and its clamps.

I think the cold weather has ****ed something up.

Originally Posted by BMR_LVR

Three possible ways:


2) unplug DME for a minute or two

This only works for that timeframe if you are also at key2. We recently tested this out.
However, after unclamping alone for 15 minutes, the error codes got deleted. We will test until we have identified the shortest timeframe for unclamping alone to suffice and report back in a few days.