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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 5 Series > E39 (1997 - 2003)

E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 01-03-2013, 05:21 PM
s-thetikz s-thetikz is offline
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Location: Amherst MA
 
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Mein Auto: 325is
Very unusual throttle problem and blower issue..

I just picked up an 03 525i auto, and a few questions still persist:

1. When in neutral or in park, if I blip the throttle, I'll get the proper corresponding jump in RPM's, plus a little extra blip from the engine. This is a really hard to describe event. Basically, every time you gas it, the RPM's jump slightly higher, hanging for a split second before it goes back down.

2. My blower only runs when the car is moving. I've read that it may be an FCM, but symptoms are not exactly as described. At a stop, the blower will not run at all. It is as if it is dependent on engine speed. Even if I start moving slowly in reverse, the blower will kick in. I'll have the fan with bars halfway (50% speed) and it will not turn on unless the car is in motion.

Thanks in advance! The first problem is stumping me as to how to search for a viable solution. Thanks!

Last edited by s-thetikz; 01-03-2013 at 06:06 PM.
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  #2  
Old 01-03-2013, 06:39 PM
s-thetikz s-thetikz is offline
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bump~
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  #3  
Old 01-03-2013, 07:22 PM
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16valex 16valex is offline
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First problem? I believe it's normal but perhaps your ICV needs some cleaning.

Second problem!!! I have no clue...
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Old 01-03-2013, 07:25 PM
s-thetikz s-thetikz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 16valex View Post
First problem? I believe it's normal but perhaps your ICV needs some cleaning.

Second problem!!! I have no clue...
Thanks, I think I should clean the ICV just for the sake of better idle, and to eliminate it as a potential problem.

I should clarify that the blower is dependent on car speed, rather than engine speed. Revving the engine doesn't affect the blower, so I guess it blasts only when the car is in motion.
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  #5  
Old 01-03-2013, 08:21 PM
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16valex 16valex is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by s-thetikz View Post
Thanks, I think I should clean the ICV just for the sake of better idle, and to eliminate it as a potential problem.

I should clarify that the blower is dependent on car speed, rather than engine speed. Revving the engine doesn't affect the blower, so I guess it blasts only when the car is in motion.
Yeah! Cleaning the ICV is good thing to do anyway..

But your blower only operates when car is in motion had me scratching my head. If I were you I would unlock test number 9 Voltage reading while driving around, and make a good observation how your Voltage behaves, then report back.
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Old 01-04-2013, 10:49 AM
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johnstern johnstern is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 16valex View Post
But your blower only operates when car is in motion had me scratching my head. If I were you I would unlock test number 9 Voltage reading while driving around, and make a good observation how your Voltage behaves, then report back.
+1 on Alex's suggestion to monitor car's voltage.

You might also want to inspect the wires and connections to the FSU-the final stage resistor that runs the blower. It's located behind the passenger side footwell kick panel on the left side of the footwell. Search for FSU replacement threads. In the Wiki section there is more info on the FSU under "Battery Drain".

If you remove that kick panel and find the FSU connector, you could move the wires around and find out if the blower starts working.

This is all a pure guess.

BTW: The Bentley Manual covers FSU replacement but I'm sure you can find other descriptions/maybe videos if you Google same.
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Old 01-04-2013, 11:38 AM
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Josh P. Josh P. is offline
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Any codes?

Bad FSU causes all kinds of weird/erratic blower behavior. Assuming the above happens whenever the blower is turned on (heat and AC) that would be my guess. There's always the possibility that the fan motor or wiring is bad, but the FSU is appx $100 and a quick (if PITA, contortion-wise) fix, so I'd try that first.
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