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E46 (1999 - 2006)
The fourth generation 3 Series (E46 chassis) was introduced in 1999 and set the standard for engineering and performance during it's years of production including being named to Car & Driver's 10 best list every one of those years! ! -- View the E46 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 01-04-2013, 08:12 AM
Dbjwills Dbjwills is offline
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Changing discs and pads, front and rear

Hello good people of Bimmerforum!
A hopefully, easy question for some of you to answer...

Need to replace pads and discs on all 4 wheels - my question, does the E46 need it's brakes bleeding after changing pads, And are the discs bolted to the hub by bolts?
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  #2  
Old 01-04-2013, 08:33 AM
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charlesberry charlesberry is offline
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No need to bleed, yes the rotor is held on by a screw.

After replacing the pads and rotors, push the brake pedal a few times to reseat the piston against the new pads.
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  #3  
Old 01-04-2013, 08:34 AM
Dbjwills Dbjwills is offline
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Brilliant, that's cheered me right up lol. I can undo screws - lefty loosie n all that. Cheers
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  #4  
Old 01-04-2013, 09:21 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Mine is an E39 but the task should be essentially similar on the E46, so take a look at this thread, which, to my knowledge, covers every question a newbie would ask:
- One user's example of a complete brake job with all torque figures, specs, measurements, fluids, decisions, tools, tricks, mistakes, suppliers, costs, etc., that it entails (1)
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Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #5  
Old 01-04-2013, 09:21 PM
GoForthFast GoForthFast is online now
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Search youtube for vids to help you

There are not bolts per se to hold on the rotor. The five bolts hold on the wheel, and then when the wheel is removed, there is only one small allen head bolt left that retains the rotor. Rotors that have been on for a long time will sometimes be frozen on. Then you'll have to be a mechanic with some skills to get it off.
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  #6  
Old 01-05-2013, 09:57 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoForthFast View Post
there is only one small allen head bolt
This may help the OP if the set screw is stuck:
- How to remove a stuck 6mm brake rotor set screw (1)

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Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Last edited by bluebee; 01-11-2013 at 08:11 PM.
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  #7  
Old 01-05-2013, 01:11 PM
NoMercy346 NoMercy346 is offline
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When you do the rear brakes make sure the e-brake is turned all the way back (acess the little gear mechanism through one of the holes your lug bolts go into). Rear rotors have to go over the e brake shoes in the hat so you may have to use some force to pull the rotor over them. (a tiny lip will have formed on the inside as the e-brake shoes carve out some material on the inside of the hat)
then, before reassembling the whole thing check that the ebrake shoes are still properly fastened to the backplate. the thin metal plate may be rusty enough that the pins that hold the shoes on will fall out (or that you have pulled them out when you forced the rotor over the shoes)
I didn't and the ebrake fell apart on the test drive resulting in totally random, VERY alarming thumps, as your ebrake parts are getting shredded like in a blender
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  #8  
Old 01-06-2013, 11:21 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoMercy346 View Post
make sure the e-brake is turned all the way back (acess the little gear mechanism through one of the holes your lug bolts go into).
For the e brake, there are really good pictorial diys here:
- cn90 parking brake adjustment DIY (and other emergency brake adjustment DIYs)
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Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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  #9  
Old 01-11-2013, 05:23 PM
Dbjwills Dbjwills is offline
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Some very good replies there , you lot have saved me 400 doing it myself, so every time you walk into a pub shout "Humphries", if I'm there - il buy you a pint. Seriously though, cheers you lot
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  #10  
Old 01-11-2013, 06:08 PM
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rgk330i rgk330i is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
how to remove a stuck 6mm brake rotor set screw
I had no problem removing the set screw, but my rotors were fairly well frozen to the hubs. That took a bit of work to break free.

So, bluebee, do you do these references from memory???
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  #11  
Old 01-11-2013, 06:09 PM
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jvr826 jvr826 is offline
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The eBrake advice is good IF you find the rotor won't come off because the inner pads have grooved into it. I have not had to fuss with the e-brake adjustment on any of the E46's I've done rear brakes on. You may not have to either.

And if the rotor is rusted on, this method is outstanding! I've used it several times.

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Last edited by jvr826; 01-11-2013 at 06:11 PM.
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  #12  
Old 01-11-2013, 07:46 PM
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rgk330i rgk330i is offline
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Well, that approach is simple and elegant, and even better than my wooden wedge between the rotor and the caliper mounting bracket. I'll remember that for next time!

Sent from my GT-P7510 using Bimmer App
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  #13  
Old 01-11-2013, 08:10 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rgk330i View Post
bluebee, do you do these references from memory???
Naaah. I use this method to find things in a split second:
- How To Easily Find Information on Your Topic Before Posting a New Thread

Summarized, I set my control panel long ago to 80 posts per page, and then I open up this one thread (commonly called the bestlinks), and type /KEYWORD F3.

For example, /brake F3 nets me, among others, the following (which I then edit down to answer the specific question of the OP):

- What street use brake pads (1) and rotors (1) and suppliers (1) (2) are most often recommended & how to do a complete four wheel brake job DIY (1) (2) (3) including the parking brake drum shoes (1) (2) (3) & exactly what lube/paste to use and not use (1) & where to lube (1) and not to lube (1) & what six brake hoses to check for wear (1) & how to do a preventive brake system & caliper rebuild (1) (2) & what tools are needed for a brake job (1) (2) and supplies for doing brakes (1) & what brake specifications you must know (1) including minimum specs for the brake shoes (1) (2) taking care to measure torque accurately (1) & how to crack friction material edge codes (1) & how far you can go once the brake wear sensor trips (1) (2) (3) (4) & how long do rotors last (1) & what's the real difference between drilled, slotted, and solid rotors (1) & what's the difference between various brands of solid rotors (1) & how to clear the check brake lining warning the right way (1) (2) and how to hardwire the sensor (1) (2) & how to diagnose brake-related vibration (1) (2) (3) & the truth about rotor "warp" (1) & how to rebuild the calipers (1) & how to measure runout (1) & should you just turn the rotors (1) & how to remove stuck rusted-on brake rotors (1) & how to remove a stuck 6mm brake rotor set screw (1) & how to replace the anti-rattle spring (1) (2) & what about unsightly rust (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) & how to bed (1) (2) & bleed or flush (0) (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) your brakes & what brake & clutch hydraulic fluid to use (1) and how much it will cost if you do not DIY (1) (2) (3) & a textbook on friction brake theory (pdf) & the BMW_TIS_34-11-00-replacing_brake_linings_and_lubricants.pdf
__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need
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