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E36/7 Z3 (1996-2002)
E36/7 Z3 Roadster, Z3 coupe, Z3 M Roadster and Z3 M Coupe talk with our gurus here.

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  #1  
Old 07-22-2004, 03:26 AM
CMWalker CMWalker is offline
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Body Electronics Control Module Location and P/N?

I posted on Roadfly too. Awaiting any response...

Symptoms: Dead short across fuse 33, interior lights.

Troubleshooting: Removed all load from circuit, still short.

Suspect: Body Electronics Control Module

Need to know: Location under hood (believe passenger side fender)

Like to know: BMW part number (in case I have to order it)

Thanks Everyone
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  #2  
Old 07-22-2004, 01:42 PM
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Ron Stygar Ron Stygar is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CMWalker
I posted on Roadfly too. Awaiting any response...

Symptoms: Dead short across fuse 33, interior lights.

Troubleshooting: Removed all load from circuit, still short.

Suspect: Body Electronics Control Module

Need to know: Location under hood (believe passenger side fender)

Like to know: BMW part number (in case I have to order it)

Thanks Everyone
The ZKE-IV is behind the glove box. Part number 61 35 8 387 530. $333.00 retail.
What makes you think that it is the ZKE-IV?

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  #3  
Old 07-22-2004, 06:29 PM
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In my roadster, the most prevalent cause of blowing that fuse is the trunk light. Mine doesn't stay in well, and the contacts aren't really protected from the sheet metal in which it's inserted. More than once when it has popped out, both contacts have come to rest on the sheet metal (short). I've since taped the contacts with silicone splicing tape and put a small piece of teflon electrical tape on the sheet metal where the contacts like to hit. No idea what lights the coupe may or may not have with similar issues.
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  #4  
Old 07-23-2004, 04:16 PM
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StevzZ3 StevzZ3 is offline
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short

Have you looked at the wire going to your lighted shift knob? Just a thought.
Good Luck,
Steve H.
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  #5  
Old 07-23-2004, 05:26 PM
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Ron Stygar Ron Stygar is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StevzZ3
Have you looked at the wire going to your lighted shift knob? Just a thought.
Good Luck,
Steve H.
That is fed from fuse 37.
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  #6  
Old 07-23-2004, 06:30 PM
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Randy Forbes Randy Forbes is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Stygar
That is fed from fuse 37.
And we know that it would take out the rheostat in the headlight switch before the fuse can blow. Great bit of engineering, that
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  #7  
Old 07-24-2004, 02:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Forbes
And we know that it would take out the rheostat in the headlight switch before the fuse can blow. Great bit of engineering, that
Can you make the electronic dimmer control from a regular body E36 fit in a Z3? It appears to be short circuit protected.
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  #8  
Old 07-24-2004, 03:25 AM
CMWalker CMWalker is offline
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Reasons for suspicion

First off, I'm not much of an electrical guy, so my buddy who is was helping troubleshoot. So if I'm wrong, HE'S the fool! (j/k. He's a great guy)

We were led to the control module because all attempts at isolating individual loads on the circuits still left us with the short. There could be frayed or chewed wiring somewhere I suppose, but we saw no evidence of that.

My dealer tells me that the module is also an unlikely suspect, and that the cost is $330 just for the part. But even if I buy and install it, it has to be "coded" to identify the vehicle. And that can only be done by the dealer.

Thanks for the picture. That might help further testing. Meanwhile, I miss the simplicity of my E30. Course, the power of the Coupe helps me forget!

Thanks for the help.

Craig
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  #9  
Old 07-24-2004, 04:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CMWalker
We were led to the control module because all attempts at isolating individual loads on the circuits still left us with the short. There could be frayed or chewed wiring somewhere I suppose, but we saw no evidence of that.
I am not sure I understand. Did you try unplugging the ZKE (including the connector, X13252, on its backside ) and was the short still there?

What I find helpful for finding a parasitic short is to place a fairly large power resistor in series with the fuse to keep it from blowing (I use a couple 15 ohm 5W resistors in series) and then check the current through the wiring using a clamp on (hall effect) DC ammeter.

Note that the ZKE will start to draw current as soon as you unlock the car or open a door and will continue to until it goes back to sleep. This man's non-Z3 remains awake for some minutes after closing the doors and locking the car.

Last edited by johnf; 07-24-2004 at 04:10 AM.
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  #10  
Old 07-24-2004, 05:57 AM
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Randy Forbes Randy Forbes is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnf
Can you make the electronic dimmer control from a regular body E36 fit in a Z3? It appears to be short circuit protected.
Yes, it would be easy enough to do, if one was so inclined. You would have a separate control for dimming, but it's easy enough to find the connection points on the headlight switch. Since I always use those lights at full brightness anyway, I just jumped across the rheostat terminals.
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  #11  
Old 07-24-2004, 09:45 AM
CMWalker CMWalker is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnf
I am not sure I understand. Did you try unplugging the ZKE (including the connector, X13252, on its backside ) and was the short still there?

What I find helpful for finding a parasitic short is to place a fairly large power resistor in series with the fuse to keep it from blowing (I use a couple 15 ohm 5W resistors in series) and then check the current through the wiring using a clamp on (hall effect) DC ammeter.

Note that the ZKE will start to draw current as soon as you unlock the car or open a door and will continue to until it goes back to sleep. This man's non-Z3 remains awake for some minutes after closing the doors and locking the car.

Well, we never knew exactly where to FIND the controller. We just saw it on the schematic. Thanks to the info I got here, we should be able to do exactly what you're saying.

I'll pass on the resistor/ammeter trick to my buddy. I have a pretty good idea what you're suggesting, but he'll know exactly what you mean.

Thanks!
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  #12  
Old 07-24-2004, 11:23 AM
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John Firestone
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CMWalker
Well, we never knew exactly where to FIND the controller. We just saw it on the schematic. Thanks to the info I got here, we should be able to do exactly what you're saying.
Sorry, I suffered a little temporary brain fade. The black connector on the back that is hard to reach is X10182. The ETM I am looking at shows continuous power to its pin 18 through fuse F2, not F33. Fuse F33 feeds X13252 which should be the big, hunky black connector on the front.

The ZKE must have been designed by committee: the latter would have been sufficient to handle the power.

Good luck in your troubleshooting!
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  #13  
Old 07-24-2004, 02:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnf
Sorry, I suffered a little temporary brain fade. The black connector on the back that is hard to reach is X10182. The ETM I am looking at shows continuous power to its pin 18 through fuse F2, not F33. Fuse F33 feeds X13252 which should be the big, hunky black connector on the front.

The ZKE must have been designed by committee: the latter would have been sufficient to handle the power.
Not having taken the ZKE apart, I've always assumed that things like F33 only feed high-side drivers, and were fused separately so you didn't knock out the whole ZKE when shorting a lamp circuit. Of course, the ZKE isn't of much use w/o the high-side drivers on F33 if the sun isn't up.
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  #14  
Old 07-24-2004, 03:12 PM
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John Firestone
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwm
Not having taken the ZKE apart, I've always assumed that things like F33 only feed high-side drivers, and were fused separately so you didn't knock out the whole ZKE when shorting a lamp circuit. Of course, the ZKE isn't of much use w/o the high-side drivers on F33 if the sun isn't up.
The ETM claims there are not 2 but 34 fuses that provide power to the ZKE at all times:
  • F2 - if car has an M43 or M52 engine
  • F14 - for the power windows
  • F33 - for the interior lights
  • F35 - for the central locking
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