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E60 (2004 - 2010)
BMW 5-Series (E60 chassis) was first seen in the Unites States in the fall of 2003 with a 2004 Model Year designation. The E60 is now available as a 528i, 528xi, 535i, 535xi, 550i and a 535xi sports wagon! -- View the E60 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 01-05-2013, 10:57 AM
bimmerFUNF bimmerFUNF is offline
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2006 530 E60 Vibration weird idle?

Hello

Real quick, when started cold, the idle needle isnt sable, when it gets warmer after started for bit (living in MN) and idling in garage, the engine and whole body vibrates, vibrate on and off periodically, you can feel it, on and off.

goes away when driving

what i have done so far

-clean Mass air flow sensor

-replace engine air filter

now next......should i replace my ignition coils? new mass air flow sensor? or fuel injectors?

TO FIX rough idle and vibration

2006 BMW 530i E60 111,000 Miles
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  #2  
Old 01-05-2013, 12:08 PM
pcy pcy is offline
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Rather than continuing to replace parts that may/many_not be contributing to the rough idle, you need to see if there are any diagnostic codes set.

Bad ignition coil can contribute to rough idle; so do many other parts.
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  #3  
Old 01-05-2013, 12:32 PM
Gregzou Gregzou is offline
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I kinda have the same thing. When started cold, there's vibration, but isn't it normal?
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  #4  
Old 01-05-2013, 02:35 PM
bimmerFUNF bimmerFUNF is offline
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No check engine lights popping up. No codes no errors. So it's a stab in the dark.
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  #5  
Old 01-26-2013, 08:55 PM
carlova78 carlova78 is offline
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Yeah, I also have this problem for the first minute or so. 59k miles, diagnostic had a cyl. 1 misfire so I replaced the coilpack and still persists.
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  #6  
Old 01-27-2013, 06:08 PM
SFbay SFbay is offline
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Welcome to M54 club
I spent a fortune to find out this problem!!!!
It's a common problem with these engines:
Usually cyl 6 misfires, but could be any of them.
The problem actually is in bloody hydraulic lifters- they get stuck, so the valve isn't closed fully-therefore no compression! But it's only in the morning, when cold.
Try to put Mobil 0w40 oil, but less likely it will help. Also try auto rx solution.
After I replaced all of them my car got 30% power back!!!

Last edited by SFbay; 01-27-2013 at 06:10 PM.
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  #7  
Old 01-27-2013, 09:18 PM
UltimateDriving UltimateDriving is offline
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It could be a ton of things.
-Ingnition Coils
-Spark Plugs
-Crankcase ventilation valve (Also called oil separator valve)

In my case (E39 with the M54 engine which i suppose your car has) it was the Crankcase ventilation valve, after changing it i had no more rough idle . . . ever!
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  #8  
Old 01-27-2013, 09:27 PM
SFbay SFbay is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UltimateDriving View Post
It could be a ton of things.
-Ingnition Coils
-Spark Plugs
-Crankcase ventilation valve (Also called oil separator valve)

In my case (E39 with the M54 engine which i suppose your car has) it was the Crankcase ventilation valve, after changing it i had no more rough idle . . . ever!
If he gets only one cyl misfire, then I doubt it's ccv, plus with ccv 99% you get air leak codes, unless it gets frozen in the morning bc of water condensation.
But definitely ccv has to be replaced every 60k
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  #9  
Old 01-28-2013, 08:15 AM
carlova78 carlova78 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carlova78 View Post
Yeah, I also have this problem for the first minute or so. 59k miles, diagnostic had a cyl. 1 misfire so I replaced the coilpack and still persists.
Also its a 2007 530i N52.
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  #10  
Old 01-28-2013, 10:51 AM
SFbay SFbay is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carlova78 View Post
Also its a 2007 530i N52.
If problem still there start with compression check....
These engine are known for premature valve stem leaks
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  #11  
Old 04-02-2013, 10:56 AM
bimmerFUNF bimmerFUNF is offline
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Hey guys,

I have replaced the spark plugs, OEM Bosch, and replaced the Ignition coils, OEM Bosch

The problem still remains, still rough Idle, sometimes on stop lights the RPM needle is so unstable I fell like the car will stall !

No idea what to do now, and yet no error codes no check lights on UGH >.<

ALSO: I have replaced the hoses that plug into intake manifold, the oil separators, both of them fat tubes.

Last edited by bimmerFUNF; 04-02-2013 at 11:18 AM.
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  #12  
Old 04-02-2013, 10:59 AM
bimmerFUNF bimmerFUNF is offline
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To replace the Crankcase ventilation valve, Im looking at DIY , is it the same as Crankcase Ventilation System? Would that cover it
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  #13  
Old 04-02-2013, 11:33 AM
pcy pcy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bimmerFUNF View Post
To replace the Crankcase ventilation valve, Im looking at DIY , is it the same as Crankcase Ventilation System? Would that cover it ...
Oil separator is located under the intake manifold on the N52 engine.
You will need to remove the intake manifold, flip it upside down to replace the oil separator.
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  #14  
Old 05-04-2013, 09:11 AM
latitude39 latitude39 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bimmerFUNF View Post
To replace the Crankcase ventilation valve, Im looking at DIY , is it the same as Crankcase Ventilation System?
bimmerFUNF,
Did you resolve this problem? The DIY video on your post is for the previous generation of engine, the M54, and is a different procedure to change the CCV, as pcy pointed out with the photo.

My '07 530xi (N52) has an unstable idle, varying about 50 RPM at idle. If you have solved your problem, please share.
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  #15  
Old 05-04-2013, 01:43 PM
bimmerFUNF bimmerFUNF is offline
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hey guys, this is what I have done on the car since I was uncomfy with idle issue

- clean mass flow sensor
- change air filter
- new spark plugs
- new bosch ignition coils
- new oil separator tubes, aka crank case vent hose there are two of them, changed the two ( on ebay only $68 and bmw stelership $120 http://www.ebay.com/itm/230953847562...84.m1423.l2649)
- i had starter issue (put new starter in) this is irrelevant

all of that work and the idle is still wild, it still feels weird on stop lights, when I release the brake to get going it stutters before I hit the gas

my next project is to change the CVV crankcase ventilation valve, not sure if its good idea to diy or just give it in to stealership and beat the rental for while.

bottom line, no the problem is still there :/
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  #16  
Old 05-05-2013, 05:22 PM
dkotanto dkotanto is offline
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Recharging my AC fixed my idle issue. This was due to the AC compressor cycling on and off at idle causing the idle fluctuation.
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  #17  
Old 05-06-2013, 11:04 AM
bimmerFUNF bimmerFUNF is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkotanto View Post
Recharging my AC fixed my idle issue. This was due to the AC compressor cycling on and off at idle causing the idle fluctuation.
That is interesting. While you had idling problems was it when you had AC on or regardless.
I hope this can fix it. I never run AC btw.
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  #18  
Old 05-27-2013, 01:06 PM
latitude39 latitude39 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bimmerFUNF View Post
Hello
...
2006 BMW 530i E60 111,000 Miles
Quote:
Originally Posted by bimmerFUNF View Post
hey guys, this is what I have done on the car since I was uncomfy with idle issue
...
my next project is to change the CVV crankcase ventilation valve, not sure if its good idea to diy or just give it in to stealership and beat the rental for while.

bottom line, no the problem is still there :/
My idle smoothed out after replacing all four O2 sensors. Idle wasn't too bad anyway. O2 sensors are supposed to be replaced at 120k miles, IIRC. My car had 116k when done last week.

We're probably due for motor mounts at 111k and 116k too. My 325xi idled much better when I replaced those motor mounts at 133k miles. When comparing them side-by-side, the old ones were clearly "beat."
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  #19  
Old 05-30-2013, 01:37 PM
Jesuslopez530i Jesuslopez530i is offline
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I had the same thing happen to my car, I just took it to the dealership and they bumped up the idle, it used to be I idiling low like at 550 rpm and they bumped it up to 700 with their computer. After that everything was normal.
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  #20  
Old 05-31-2013, 06:36 AM
latitude39 latitude39 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jesuslopez530i View Post
I had the same thing happen to my car, I just took it to the dealership and they bumped up the idle, it used to be I idiling low like at 550 rpm and they bumped it up to 700 with their computer. After that everything was normal.
I wonder how and why the idle would have been set so low. Mine has always been 650-700.
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  #21  
Old 05-31-2013, 07:09 AM
Benpitt Benpitt is offline
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I had a similar idle issue with my 2006 530i (N52 motor w/120k miles) except I was getting "service engine soon" light on and a P2096 fault code"Post Catalyst Fuel Trim System Too Lean Bank 1".

I pulled the DISA valve on exterior of intake and found it to be broken. The rubber sealing around the flap was torn and the plastic pivot pin was laying in the bottom of the intake when I pulled it. Replaced valve ($300 part from dealer) and now I have smooth idle as well as smoother acceleration.

Not too much written about the DISA valves on these motors but plenty on other variations. The new DISA valve has a metal pin for the pivot point versus the older plastic design so I hope that helps. The other point to bring up is that there are two DISA valves on my intake, one on interior of intake (between motor and intake) and one on exterior side (between intake and fender well). They're different sized valves and different levels of effort to remove.

I was glad it wasn't the other valve since it would have required removing the intake and its' related seals to replace.

Might be worth pulling even if you're not getting any codes if you've exhausted all the other options. It's a straight forward DIY job (30 minutes or so) unless of course you start cleaning all the parts you removed since you don't have the replacement part and it turns into a 2 day event.

Hope that helps!

Ben
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  #22  
Old 05-31-2013, 08:41 AM
latitude39 latitude39 is offline
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DISA autopsy -- VIDEO

Quote:
Originally Posted by Benpitt View Post

I pulled the DISA valve on exterior of intake and found it to be broken. The rubber sealing around the flap was torn and the plastic pivot pin was laying in the bottom of the intake when I pulled it. Replaced valve ($300 part from dealer) and now I have smooth idle as well as smoother acceleration.

Ben
Ben,
I had the same problem on my'07 530xi (N52 motor).

I also replaced the #1 DISA (there are 2, as you've noted). Luckily, this DISA was the one on the outside of the intake manifold and was easy. I paid $192 by ordering online.

The photo shows an image of the codes I encountered that lead me to the broken DISA.

Here's my autopsy of the DISA valve (1:17)
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  #23  
Old 05-31-2013, 09:18 AM
Benpitt Benpitt is offline
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Great video!

Where'd you find a DISA for $192? I was only able to find them for $280+ on line and since I could get it next day at the dealer I went that route($290.78 with tax to be exact).

If I can save $100 next time I'll take it!
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  #24  
Old 05-31-2013, 10:28 AM
latitude39 latitude39 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Benpitt View Post
Great video!

Where'd you find a DISA for $192? I was only able to find them for $280+ on line and since I could get it next day at the dealer I went that route($290.78 with tax to be exact).

If I can save $100 next time I'll take it!
ECSTuning is where I got this DISA actuator. I'd also check autohausaz and rmeuropean. ECSTuning and rmeuropean are listed as sponsors of this site. We should do business with the sponsors.

You also might be interested to know that there are now 3 versions of that DISA valve--see attached image, courtesy of realoem.com. My old DISA had that middle part number but now I've got the 3rd and, hopefully, final version. Apparently BMW has dealt with issues on this unit.

I do occasionally buy parts from the local BMW dealership. I'm glad to have them available when I really need them, even when the markup is steep.
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  #25  
Old 05-31-2013, 11:40 AM
Benpitt Benpitt is offline
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Agreed on the vendors! They are my usual suspects list when I'm ordering parts. There must have been a price surge recently on the DISA valve because $279.09 is what's showing on ECS Tuning's website. I thought it was odd that the price listed on RealOEM's parts fiche was $212.50 and they're usually a good indicator of dealer price.

I didn't notice the 3rd generation of the part but I know I had one of the originals and hopefully now the best/last one I'll need.

Thanks!

Ben
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