Battery

Hi

Had a bad battery replaced it , should i have left the battery disconnected for a while so the car can reset itself to the new battery?

All the procedures "required" to install a new battery are spelled out in the owners manual...anything else is totally a personal matter:

cheers mate just got elecrical cluster problems trying to solve

Did the new battery solve the electrical cluster problems? If not...can you elaborate more about the cluster issues...it may be something a forum member is familiar with.

Originally Posted by QSilver7

Did the new battery solve the electrical cluster problems? If not...can you elaborate more about the cluster issues...it may be something a forum member is familiar with.

Specifically, my left and right indicators on the cluster are not "lighting" or sounding off. Having read other threads pertaining to the "turn signal indicators", my problem seems to differ from others reported and discussed. As an example, my radio works fine. My reverse light works. Remote key works. However, other cluster indicator lights such as high beam lights do not light or fog light indicator. My turn signal stick (?) seems to work properly and returns to the neutral position after the exterior turn signal has worked properly and completed its assignment.
Also at the same time my parking sensor beeps have stopped working
and when i lock the car the lights dont flash to indicate the alarm is set.
Also the auto stick park light stays on even when the car is switched off and locked is that normal?

Could this be ignition switch problem?

Not sure if my experience will be useful to the OP, but, when I had a bad cluster, here's the procedure I followed to resolve:
- One user's experience debugging a half-dead instrument cluster (1) which, after testing the fuses (1) battery & alternator (1) thankfully turned into an alternative battery search (1) and a simple battery replacement DIY (1)

EDIT:
I'm not sure about the LCM since I've never experienced a failure - but maybe the OP may benefit from one of these?
- How to repair (1) (2) or replace (1) your light control module & where to get new LCM chips (1) (2)

I have the tamper dot show on the instrument cluster one time when the battery was low, but the car started . Turn off then on and the dot went away.

Originally Posted by essex.stuart

1. Specifically, my left and right indicators on the cluster are not "lighting" or sounding off.

2. other cluster indicator lights such as high beam lights do not light or fog light indicator.

3. my parking sensor beeps have stopped working

4. and when i lock the car the lights dont flash to indicate the alarm is set.

5. the auto stick park light stays on even when the car is switched off and locked is that normal?

Could this be ignition switch problem?

So basically questions 1 & 2 seems to be related to the exterior lights not working as they should. All exterior lights are controlled by the LCM (light/lamp control module) and communicates on the I-bus. But everything you mention except for the fog lights...are also controlled by the turn indicator "stalk"...and I believe there is an issue wih the stalks that has been discussed many times before. Try doing a search using the term such as "turn indicator stalk"

Question 3...PDC...communicates on the I-bus. PDC sensors can stop working causing this issue. You can actually hear the sensors "clicking" if you walk around the car (once started AND in PARK)...the one NOT clicking is the culprit.

Question 4...FZV/DWA (central locking/anti-theft alarm siren system) communicates on the P-bus...but would send a data/signal from the P-bus, to the K-bus, then to the I-bus to tell the LCM to flash the lights. Sometimes a deeply discharged battery has caused some car/key memory settings to return to default settings...do you still get the audible alert when locking/unlocking the car?

And question 5...that little booger gets a lot of owners. It should stay illuminated up to 16 minutes...then turn off when the car goes to SLEEP. This light is connected to the P-bus (peripheral bus)...and indicates when the car is AWAKE. When the car is shut down, the P-bus stays awake for 16 minutes...if there are no "calls" (lifting of door handle, or remote buttons on the remote fob, opening of windows, etc)...then the car will go to SLEEP. Come back to the car after 16 minutes and see if the light has gone out...MAKE SURE that you DO NOT lift the door handle or the UNNLOCK button on your remote fob.

Thanks for the info people i'll let you know the outcome

I replaced my 2007 X3 battery by AutoCraft H8-AGM. It can be used on 2007 530. It has been working great for almost 6 months. By the way, I have a $30 off promo code. If you are interested in the code, you may click my user name to send me a private message.

Did you connect an 18v battery upfront to the OBM (I believe thats what its called) plug? I learned the hard way that while changing a battery in E39's you need to do this or else your electronics and software get messed up. The plug is in the driver seat to the left under the steering wheel.

I got free installation from a local store. They connected the upfront plug.

Did you connect an 18v battery upfront to the OBM (I believe thats what its called) plug?

Not sure what an OBM is (perhaps you meant OBD)...but the e39 doesn't require that a new battery be "registered" like you 07 X3 which uses the MOST communication BUS....so there's no need for this "plug" that you mention for e39 owners. The info you shared about your X3...will come in handy for those of us that eventually move up into BMWs that have i-Drive and require that new batteries be registered. It appears by keeping the car electrically charged with small amperage...will prevent the need to have to have the new battery coded. This will definitely be kept in my "mental rolodex".

Again, see the instructions in post #2 for changing the battery in an e39.

OBD II connector - for reading/scanning for OBD II codes (electronic emissions) and for all BUS communication for e39s with build dates from 9/2000-up that no longer have the 20 pin DLC in the engine bay...which too was previously mentioned in post #8 above

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