Can I use L7 sub outputs to install better Subs?

Alright folks, just replaced L7 amp today. All speakers are working fine curious to know if its possible to use L7 sub outputs to run after market amp with bigger subs in trunk? I was thinking if I did that I'll save the sub signals by just using the outputs other than using the channels regularly.

That's how I did mine. Works perfectly. I am able to adjust the amount of bass through iDrive.

Yea. I did mine also

thanks for the reply fellows. Should I use a converter like audio control or clean sweep.

Originally Posted by Mr745i

Alright folks, just replaced L7 amp today. All speakers are working fine curious to know if its possible to use L7 sub outputs to run after market amp with bigger subs in trunk? I was thinking if I did that I'll save the sub signals by just using the outputs other than using the channels regularly.

Originally Posted by Mr745i

thanks for the reply fellows. Should I use a converter like audio control or clean sweep.

You can easily do that! Just make sure you take the signal for each sub and lead it to it's own channel. I don't think you should need nor want a cleansweep because that mixes ALL the audio together in one big mess!!

As far as a converter, you may need a Hi-Lo converter (LOC Converter) if your aftermarket amplifier does not accept high voltage input signals.

I used a LOC from bestbuy and it worked perfect. I recommend finding a LOC with a remote signal out.

I need help with this subs on the car. what subs can I put under the seat to replace the factory subs then I can use a loc to power the new subs under the seat

Apparently my car had a pretty serious subwoofer system in it prior to me purchasing. This did not come with the car. However, I see in the right side, trunk panel there is additional wiring...not cheap stuff either. I think 0 guage. How do I know if there is still something off the L7 amp to feed the subs. Is there a tell tale sign? What should I look for? I'm looking to possibly upgrade with a single 12" or something. Just to get a little harder hit.

I forget the name of the company, but they have a "kit" which replaces all of our factory speakers....all plug & play. Has anyone used them? Thoughts?

Thanks

Once I've thought about having my two drawers under my ASK unit removed and modified to hold a regular din head unit and wire amp and speakers up from scratch.
My amp has been shot for about half the time I've owned the vehicle. if I dont get rid of it, I may do something with it this summer.

Im not sure why some people are bad mouthing the JL audio
Cleansweep ???
Here is my 2 cents
I have it in my car & everything sounds great . I personally
Think it is a good option to go with ...

Originally Posted by PAPER

Im not sure why some people are bad mouthing the JL audio
Cleansweep ???
Here is my 2 cents
I have it in my car & everything sounds great . I personally
Think it is a good option to go with ...

Originally Posted by bk750

I need help with this subs on the car. what subs can I put under the seat to replace the factory subs then I can use a loc to power the new subs under the seat

Earthquake QWS series I believe, its there flat woofer line and 8''. It has the bolt pattern for the BMW's for a direct drop in. But just a FYI there are more out there if you favor a particular brand but bolt patterns needs to be modified.

Remember the clean sweep will give you a balance flat signal so you can alter thru your amps so you will have the best quality and signal power, also I believe the llines are pretty close to being balance other than adding a balance line driver.

hope this helps
Nygel

Originally Posted by PAPER

Im not sure why some people are bad mouthing the JL audio
Cleansweep ???
Here is my 2 cents
I have it in my car & everything sounds great . I personally
Think it is a good option to go with ...

The JL cleansweep takes a multi-channel audio signal and sums it up into a Left and Right Signal that's full range. That's certainly not the way real audio should be done. For us, "audio processing" that simulates 5.1 or something with some form of equalization is pretty good, but for a true audio enthusiast, having a front stage with rear filler + subs that properly mesh no matter the music that is played is the ideal goal.

A proper summing and equalization tool should have the ability to output at least 5+ channels of audio (Left front, Left Rear, Right Front, Right Rear, Center, Subwoofer, etc) and have the ability to adjust crossover points along with an equalizer (minimum of 10 bands) (IE 3.sixty or JBL MS8).

Simply summing up everything into left and right is what you'd expect from a kid with a dodge neon who has a cleansweep hooked up to the factory HU, a set of aftermarket speakers and an amp. And what I mean by that is that it's a quick, easy solution for mediocre sound that's better than most economical factory sound systems, but for our cars will sound like crap compared to a properly working L7 system. I believe that so much that I'd be willing to bet that the L7 system from the factory probably sounds better in range and timber than a 7-series with the JL cleansweep hooked up to it with factory speakers.

PAPER, I'm not meaning to bash you or insult you or JL, but the sound I've heard out of cleansweep units vs. other processors in various cars has ALWAYS been sub par and has required a TON of more equipment to make it sound decently better (IE separate equalization unit, new cross-overs, etc)

That may be true to a certain aspect for the high schooler in the parent garage. Now lets look at the audio system in the 7 series.
First you have an ASK unit that supplies four amplified output channels and two digital output channels (fiber network) to a L7 amp that is coded for DSP (Digital Sound Processing). Also lets not forget also that the ASK unit has a muting system built in for the phone,( which when receives signal output is directed to the front two speakers) speech service ( the same signal transfer). The only one that signal transfer different is the PDC which gets directed to there respective corners via input.
L7 amp get 2 fiber signal that powers 1 summed center, a left rear door, a right rear door and two subs.
So in order for digital playback you have to have digital feed, for example fade your speaker to one corner and if you hear every tonal range then it is not digital its analog!!!!
ALso the clean sweep convert the signal flat also which you are correct is considered full range. That is how music is recorded in full range (Flat 0' band width) so that all the tweaking can be done on the playback, also the clean sweep corrects line level which gives both channels the same volume and voltage output.
My opinion is for the cost of the audio system in the 7's its still lacking, due to the amount of issues and the resolution BMW did was to switch manufactures due to the concept.
But I can replace the amplifiers in the car and have a cleaner more defined sound than with the L7.