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  #1  
Old 01-14-2013, 09:49 PM
Snow Snow is offline
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Question New BMW Driver Looking for good car

Howdy, I'm not sure this is in the right place so let me know, but I am a fairly new driver as far as BMW's go, I can handle really any kind of performance (I farm so I drive alot of clunkers) and I'm looking for preferrably an older (used) BMW, but I don't want to break the bank (20,000 max) and it must be automatic. Mind you I can drive manual, but In my everyday car, I don't want to be shifting all the time.
So here's my question:
What is a good car for me that fits that criteria. I dont want convertible, and like all others, it will need to go (fast). I'm new to BMW so I have no idea where to start for this kind of thing. (FYI I'm from Washington State if that helps with anything,) (dealers, parts, etc)
Thanks so much everyone. Any questions about anything, just ask
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  #2  
Old 01-14-2013, 10:50 PM
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Welcome.

Rear Wheel Drive or are you looking for a car with All Wheel Drive?

I know you want a hard top but do you need a back seat? If you need a back seat are you looking for a coupe, a sedan, a car carry 5 adults comfortably or perhaps a wagon? In your price range there are X3 and X5 SAVs too.

How important is fuel consumption? How important is power? All BMWs handle well, but how important is handling? Do you prefer a soft or stiff suspension? Do you have any plans to autocross or track the car? How important is reliability and everyday running cost?

You have $20,000 to spend on the car. How much do you have for repairs?
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Last edited by Andrew*Debbie; 01-14-2013 at 10:54 PM.
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  #3  
Old 01-14-2013, 10:54 PM
Snow Snow is offline
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I'm talking more towards Coupe/Sedan. RWD, is preferred and around 17-21 MPG I figure
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  #4  
Old 01-14-2013, 10:54 PM
Snow Snow is offline
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Also, it's just an everyday driver, so no auto cross but maybe travel and such.
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  #5  
Old 01-14-2013, 10:56 PM
Snow Snow is offline
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Back seat is essential, suspension, I drive farm rigs, I don't mind at all, handling, pretty responsive. And it needs good acceleration.
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  #6  
Old 01-14-2013, 11:02 PM
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$20,000 should get you a decent 2008 328i sedan with automatic transmission and some options. If you want it, you should be able to find one with the sport package. The price of a used BMW takes a big drop when the new-car 4 year warranty runs out. Getting one that is still in warranty may be out of your price range.


A good 335i is probably out of your price range. A 328i with a manual accelerates well. The autobox is a bit slower, but not bad.
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Last edited by Andrew*Debbie; 01-14-2013 at 11:07 PM.
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  #7  
Old 01-14-2013, 11:05 PM
Snow Snow is offline
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Is that the low end of price range or could I haggle it down a bit?
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  #8  
Old 01-14-2013, 11:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snow View Post
Is that the low end of price range or could I haggle it down a bit?
I don't know your local used car market. I'm not even in your timezone. -- It is 7 in the morning here.

Try a used car search on BMWUSA.com for a start. Then look on ebay and other car selling websites.

Maybe a 'fester from Washington State will join in at some point.


Be sure to set aside a contingency fund for repairs. On a 5 year old BMW, something is bound to break. Fixing it won't be cheap.
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  #9  
Old 01-14-2013, 11:24 PM
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I can relate to costly repairs. On my ranch, we have a 1979 Chevy Silverado that has no working gauges, and needs a screwdriver to start, because the key is gone :P
But sounds good. I'm a decent mechanic, but have never fiddled with German made cars, so I'm excited for a new experience
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  #10  
Old 01-15-2013, 06:00 PM
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"Stay away from...
All 530i V8s and early 4 liter V8s (unles the owner can prove that the motor has been replaces with the _UPDATED_ block, not just any replacement motor.)

750iLs due to various electrical gremlins and the fact that they leak oil, trans fluid, hydraulic oil (which is expensive,) and they are costly to maintain.

Aluminum block 6 cylinders (1999 and up) because they are unrebuildable (the head cannot be torqued down once removed- the threads pull out of the block.)

That pretty much leaves 535i or 525i. Beware of Touring models with SLS rear suspension. The struts are $1400 and special order from Germany. The suspension can be converted to standard coil-overs, but just know that it may need to be done on SLS cars. Oh, and automatics are doomed to need replacement if neglected."

Source: http://forum.roadfly.com/threads/966...est-BMW-to-buy
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  #11  
Old 01-15-2013, 06:17 PM
Snow Snow is offline
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What years on the 525-35s?
Also, do all 700 series models leak?
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  #12  
Old 01-15-2013, 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Snow View Post
What years on the 525-35s?
Also, do all 700 series models leak?
E34's 1989-1995. IMHO of what I've read.. YUUP
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  #13  
Old 01-15-2013, 06:40 PM
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Hm. I like the 700 interiors but if they leak, that's a definite no
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  #14  
Old 01-15-2013, 10:59 PM
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The "bad" e34 5 series V8s were '92 to '95. By now all of them are either off the road or had their blocks replaced.
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The models and equipment (standard and optional) illustrated in this post reflect my misunderstanding of vehicles supplied by BMW AG to the German market. In other EU member states, the truthyness of my posts may vary. Please ignore this post. Subject to change.

Last edited by Andrew*Debbie; 01-16-2013 at 12:10 AM.
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  #15  
Old 01-15-2013, 11:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snow View Post
Hm. I like the 700 interiors but if they leak, that's a definite no
They don't all leak, but the various 7 series cars do have issues. Best to check the model forums. --- The V8 used in many newer 7's has a coolant pipe inside the engine that fails and is hard to replace.



Go test drive a 2008 or '09 328i and 528i at a BMW dealer. That should give you starting point. While you are there, walk around the used lot and see if anything else is interesting.
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The models and equipment (standard and optional) illustrated in this post reflect my misunderstanding of vehicles supplied by BMW AG to the German market. In other EU member states, the truthyness of my posts may vary. Please ignore this post. Subject to change.

Last edited by Andrew*Debbie; 01-16-2013 at 05:07 AM.
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  #16  
Old 01-17-2013, 10:49 PM
jhurless jhurless is offline
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7 series and V8s are typically pretty pricy to maintain, and they have lots of problems.

If you are looking for something fun to drive that looks great and won't break the bank, I would actually see if I could find a low mileage 2003 330i (E46) or 530i (E39). Both of those cars had great engines, great looks, and you will be able to buy one and have anything that needs to be fixed on it done for well under 15k. That's new tires, brakes, fluids, tune... Everything. And they are more fun to drive than E90's, in my opinion.

Last edited by jhurless; 01-17-2013 at 10:51 PM.
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  #17  
Old 01-19-2013, 09:23 PM
ian@jewelorjalopy ian@jewelorjalopy is offline
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I would second jhurless above. I was going to recommend a 2001-2003 530i with the sport package. It will be fast enough, but not as fast as the 540i. But also won't have the terminal timing chain issues that a 540i (or 740i) with the V8 will have.

Go drive one. When you're serious come visit us, and we'll help you find someone to check it out for you.
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  #18  
Old 01-19-2013, 10:40 PM
mr29 mr29 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by L0rd NIk0n View Post
"Stay away from...
All 530i V8s and early 4 liter V8s (unles the owner can prove that the motor has been replaces with the _UPDATED_ block, not just any replacement motor.)

750iLs due to various electrical gremlins and the fact that they leak oil, trans fluid, hydraulic oil (which is expensive,) and they are costly to maintain.

Aluminum block 6 cylinders (1999 and up) because they are unrebuildable (the head cannot be torqued down once removed- the threads pull out of the block.)

That pretty much leaves 535i or 525i. Beware of Touring models with SLS rear suspension. The struts are $1400 and special order from Germany. The suspension can be converted to standard coil-overs, but just know that it may need to be done on SLS cars. Oh, and automatics are doomed to need replacement if neglected."

Source: http://forum.roadfly.com/threads/966...est-BMW-to-buy
good post here


Sent from my XT557 using Bimmer App
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  #19  
Old 01-20-2013, 09:05 AM
ian@jewelorjalopy ian@jewelorjalopy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr29 View Post
good post here


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Guys,

He's got $20k to spend, not $2k. I wouldn't recommend an e34 for someone with that budget as he'll spend most of it on repairs. The newest e34 is almost 20 years old.
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  #20  
Old 01-20-2013, 12:41 PM
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Mr.750 Mr.750 is offline
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Buy a 7. They don't have near as many problems as all these people are saying.
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  #21  
Old 01-22-2013, 10:21 PM
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The V8s are some of the best by BMW in terms of performance, but you need money to keep them in great condition. The I6s may not be as powerful as the V8, but it's more reliable in the long run and they can also pack a nice punch!
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  #22  
Old 01-23-2013, 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by BMW750IMMIA View Post
Buy a 7. They don't have near as many problems as all these people are saying.
If you have a BMW mechanic in the family, or have a very trusted independant on hand, then buy one. If not run!!
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  #23  
Old 01-24-2013, 04:42 PM
myfbforumname myfbforumname is offline
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For an older car, I'd look to 2006 and before model years for the bigger V6. That way, you avoid the turbos and their complexity. There are some nice Audis out there as well and with a huge VW community, getting someone to work on them for peanuts is usually easy to do.
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  #24  
Old 01-26-2013, 01:36 AM
deanpeterson deanpeterson is offline
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I'm thinking of 2008 328i - is around $20K - I see above it has the aluminum heads etc - is that a big worry? I don't have a BMW yet - only rode in a couple - haven't even test drove this one yet. As soon as I said I was thinking of getting a BMW everyone said look out for the cost of parts??
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