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E60 (2004 - 2010)
BMW 5-Series (E60 chassis) was first seen in the Unites States in the fall of 2003 with a 2004 Model Year designation. The E60 is now available as a 528i, 528xi, 535i, 535xi, 550i and a 535xi sports wagon! -- View the E60 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 01-04-2013, 12:36 PM
supe12dave supe12dave is offline
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Stealership HELP?

Hi fellow e60 drivers, i need some serious input.

So i have a 2006 530xi with 93xxx miles on it, i didn't drive the car for about 2 months, and recently returned to the states.

I started the car and it started right up and started driving it when i got all these messages
my car lite up like a christmas tree

replace rear break pads
set time and date
high battery drain
service due
increased battery discharge

so first thing i did was had the spark plugs and coils changed and also the oil
and after getting the car back and driving for 30 min the idrive just shut down.

I didnt drive the car again for a few days and the idrive came up but only to shut down again after about 30min of driving.

I spoke to a few people and they said maybe my computer just needs to be reprogramed, some say the battery, BUT the stealership says i need a new CCC for 1500 and possible a TCU for another 500,

any input to what i should do (change the battery first?) before i start spending thousands?

also the car starts up every time

PLEAE HELP

Last edited by supe12dave; 01-04-2013 at 12:50 PM.
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  #2  
Old 01-04-2013, 12:52 PM
pcy pcy is online now
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If the battery is original battery [it served it's life], please go ahead and change the battery. If the battery has been replaced, charge the battery fully.
Fully charged battery should read 12.6V. With the fully charged battery, drive the car and report back if any of those errors show up.

While the engine is running, measure the voltage at the jump-start terminal under the hood. It should read some where around 14V. If not, alternator may be on it's way out.

Spark Plugs and coils didn't contribute to any of those errors; however, it's good that you changed them.
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  #3  
Old 01-04-2013, 01:15 PM
supe12dave supe12dave is offline
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do you think that is why the idrive doesn't turn on?
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  #4  
Old 01-04-2013, 04:07 PM
H F H F is online now
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Did ur I drive come back on?
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  #5  
Old 01-04-2013, 04:26 PM
pcy pcy is online now
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when the battery goes down, various components starts shutting down... including iDrive.
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  #6  
Old 01-04-2013, 04:34 PM
l1tech l1tech is offline
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I would have the battery checked first. What in the world made you change the spark plugs and coils??
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  #7  
Old 01-04-2013, 04:42 PM
H F H F is online now
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Okay ,, I just went thru all that ,,,,, here's wat happened to me and wat I did ,, drivin in the fwy my I drive went black ,,, tranny stayed in 4th, cluster lit up like a Christmas tree ,, I pulled over ,, tryed to start and it just clicked ,, third time fired right up , all errors cleared ,, happened to me twice ,,,,
So ,, got a new alternator at BMA auto parts .com
$263.00 !! Valeo Oem ,, installed the alternator took me bout three to four hours ,, I replaced the charging relay in the trunk fuse box , it's 1 inch by 1inch with a diagonal handle, u can't miss it ,, it's the biggest fuse ,,, started the car ,, codes disapeared ,, problem solved,, 325 bucks total cost ,, I have a 2005 with 90,000, and ur bout right there ,
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  #8  
Old 01-04-2013, 04:55 PM
H F H F is online now
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Also if ur battery is 3 yrs or older replace it too . Take it to auto zone thell check it for free
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  #9  
Old 01-04-2013, 05:16 PM
racooper3 racooper3 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pcy View Post
If the battery is original battery [it served it's life], please go ahead and change the battery. If the battery has been replaced, charge the battery fully.
Fully charged battery should read 12.6V. With the fully charged battery, drive the car and report back if any of those errors show up.

While the engine is running, measure the voltage at the jump-start terminal under the hood. It should read some where around 14V. If not, alternator may be on it's way out.

Spark Plugs and coils didn't contribute to any of those errors; however, it's good that you changed them.

I had over 200K miles on my e39 528 and never needed to change the coils. Car ran great. Sounds like battery issue not supplying enough voltage to me. I had a completely dead battery overnight this past spring, but was getting similar alarms on iDrive display. You should check into replacing battery with AGM style battery and have Stealership charge 30 min to reprogram/register new AGM battery to car DME. This will give you many years of service and plenty of amps to run your electrical system. I went with AGM-7 platinum battery from Autozone. 3 year full warranty and 7 year prorated warranty. Can't beat the $159 price either. My dealer in Lakeland, FL charged me $75 to reprogram/register car for new battery.
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  #10  
Old 01-04-2013, 09:18 PM
bimmerfan52 bimmerfan52 is offline
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If the electrical system voltage is too low the car will begin to shed load by switching off relays which disable electrical components such as the iDrive, seat heaters, fans, electric windows, etc. to protect the system from over current conditions.

The first step in trouble shooting is to determine what the battery voltage is while the engine is off. This can be done using a multimeter in the engine compartment. If the battery voltage is between 12V and 12.6V the battery is not at fault. If the battery voltage is lower than 12V either the battery has reached the end of its life and can no longer hold a charge or the electrical system (usually the alternator) is defective and the good battery is not being charged.

Then start the engine and measure the voltage again. If the voltage is 14V-14.5V then the alternator may be operating properly. However, if the voltage regulator is failing the alternator output voltage may swing up and down over a period of minutes. Over voltage from the alternator is just as bad as under voltage and can cause the same problems in the system. I have found the item like the link shown below very handy. Plug it in before you start the car and you can monitor the voltage of just the battery, and then after beginning to drive you can monitor the alternator output throughout your drive. This item is great for those who don't know how to use a multimeter or where to connect the probes to measure voltages. When you are done diagnosing store it in your glove box until the next time things don't seem right.
http://www.rvplus.com/prime-products...FWaCQgodjCUAeA

You can also take the car to any national chain auto parts store and they will test your battery and alternator for free.

If you determine the battery and alternator are not at fault then repost and we'll move on to troubleshoot the other system components.
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  #11  
Old 01-04-2013, 09:26 PM
supe12dave supe12dave is offline
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the car misfired
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  #12  
Old 01-04-2013, 09:27 PM
supe12dave supe12dave is offline
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thanks guys for all the input that was very informative, hopefully this works and i wont have to dish out money for a new ccc, ill keep you guys posted
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  #13  
Old 01-04-2013, 09:29 PM
supe12dave supe12dave is offline
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one this i wanted to add was that everything still works, seat heaters, heated steering wheel windows, etc, only thing that doesn't is the idrive and sound, which i kind of enjoy the seatbelt chime not going off
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  #14  
Old 01-09-2013, 07:34 AM
supe12dave supe12dave is offline
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ok so last night i got a battery from autozone, and still nothing from the idrive, so can i safely assume its dead and drive this car into a river?
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  #15  
Old 01-09-2013, 09:06 AM
bimmerfan52 bimmerfan52 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supe12dave View Post
ok so last night i got a battery from autozone, and still nothing from the idrive, so can i safely assume its dead and drive this car into a river?
I assume that you had Autozone check both the alternator and battery and they said you needed the new battery.

After starting the car does the iDrive control knob spin freely or does it have the normal "click" feel to it? If it does "click" this may indicate that the problem is the display screen that is dead and not the CCC.

If the alternator is good and now the battery is good and you still have no iDrive screen then the next step is to look at the potential for a relay or fuse.

Start the car and see if the sunroof works. If it does then the terminal 30g Relay is operational and you can set that aside.

Next is to check fuse F79 (iDrive display) in the rear fuse panel by the battery. If you can't determine which is fuse 79 let me know and I will send you a copy of the fuse layout diagram off line (copyrighted matl).

If both of those are good then you start into a trouble shooting decision tree that is the size of a 200 year old oak tree, and potentially involves things like ground connections, wiring harnesses, pin connections etc. To do this one needs test equipment, the ability to read the computer and hands on the car. Your next step would be to seek out a reputable indie to track down your problem. And remember, almost all parts are available used at a fraction of new, so don't lay down and automatically drop $700 for a module that can be had out of a junk yard for $150.

This is a thread that is basically the same problem as yours. He believes he has tracked it down to the CCC.
http://forums.5series.net/e60-discus...k-help-128585/

As a final thought, if in the future the car will need to sit unused for weeks or months definitely invest in a trickle charger. Keeping the battery "topped up" prevents not only potentially damaging the battery but many other electrical parts of the car. Most people never think about the stress put on an alternator by having to fully charge a battery when started from a jump. If your alternator is old and on the ragged edge, performing a full battery charge may be enough to kill it.
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  #16  
Old 01-09-2013, 10:31 AM
Stephen Max Stephen Max is offline
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Here's a ccc for $75 on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-E61-E60-...sories&vxp=mtr
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  #17  
Old 01-09-2013, 10:32 AM
jsimon7777 jsimon7777 is offline
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Can we stop calling dealers stealerships? 9/10 times I get treated with perfect respect at dealers, including in service. Yes, their prices are often high, but not always, and you can always bargain them down. I just hate hearing the nastiness. It's misplaced most of the time.
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  #18  
Old 01-09-2013, 10:50 PM
supe12dave supe12dave is offline
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i thought the ccc was like $800?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stephen Max View Post
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  #19  
Old 01-09-2013, 11:10 PM
bimmerfan52 bimmerfan52 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by supe12dave View Post
i thought the ccc was like $800?
It costs that much if you buy it from a $steal.....oops, I meant a fine gentleman who offers you a Latte and warm cookie while helping himself to your wallet.

Some used parts have been tested and have short period warranties, while others have none. Usually they are good bargains.
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  #20  
Old 01-10-2013, 10:21 AM
Stephen Max Stephen Max is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bimmerfan52 View Post
It costs that much if you buy it from a $steal.....oops, I meant a fine gentleman who offers you a Latte and warm cookie while helping himself to your wallet.
But he treats you with respect while he does it. That's the important thing.
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  #21  
Old 01-10-2013, 05:14 PM
bimmerfan52 bimmerfan52 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stephen Max View Post
But he treats you with respect while he does it. That's the important thing.
Respect? They can be downright obsequious....... until you attempt to reclaim your wallet.
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  #22  
Old 01-11-2013, 06:59 AM
HPIA4v2 HPIA4v2 is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bimmerfan52 View Post
Respect? They can be downright obsequious....... until you attempt to reclaim your wallet.
let me chime in, IMHO....

there is a shift in dealer's paradigm in making money, it's very difficult to make money selling cars so it's way more profitable servicing the cars. And the best way is to install "salesman" in service to sell the product right; for BMW it's service-advisor(SA). There is danger in this, just like SEARS found out, alot of works were not necessary since the "salesman" is pushing for more unecessary works (chasing the comissions).
I have no problem paying for real necessary works on my car at dealer, the bogus claims made by SA is where people starts refering them as "stealership".

BMWNA need to realize there are many border-line unethical SAs out there, their attempt using after-service-survey to reward honest ones is crazy; it has to be anonymous (I found the hard way so now I just give them all 10s).

The silverlining is I am forced to do works on my own now, hey it's not all that bad, learning mechanic/electric things while saving money in the long run.
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  #23  
Old 01-11-2013, 09:30 AM
jsimon7777 jsimon7777 is offline
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As of yet, I have not run into an unethical service adviser. The worst they do is say I need to replace my tires a bit earlier than I want to, but then I run them down pretty far.
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