Disassembled Vacuum pump pics for FYI

Here are a few pics of when I took apart my vacuum pump to replace and seal the gaskets.
Might help someone who wants to pull there's off and also shows what the gusts look like for those who are interested. Didn't know if I should post here or in the DIY section since it's only a pictorial. Veterans of the forum let me know if this should have gone DIY or here for future reference. Thanks!!!

Very nice, I need to get mine out of the way soon. I have not had much time of late but I bought the seals, just need to get it going.

Perhaps if you get a bit more details about the process it would be good to move into the DIY section. If you don't mind, I have a couple of questions:

1. What did you have to remove or disassemble to get to it? I believe you only have to loosen up the other hoses to move them out of the way, but in a DIY for a 5 series they mentioned pulling the fan and shroud.
   
2. From what I have read you have to turn engine crank over to get the slot to line straight up with a 27mm or 28mm socket (can't remember offhand which size), did you do that?

Originally Posted by tampamark

Very nice, I need to get mine out of the way soon. I have not had much time of late but I bought the seals, just need to get it going.

Perhaps if you get a bit more details about the process it would be good to move into the DIY section. If you don't mind, I have a couple of questions:

1. What did you have to remove or disassemble to get to it? I believe you only have to loosen up the other hoses to move them out of the way, but in a DIY for a 5 series they mentioned pulling the fan and shroud.
   
2. From what I have read you have to turn engine crank over to get the slot to line straight up with a 27mm or 28mm socket (can't remember offhand which size), did you do that?

Hi Tampa. as you can see I didn't remove anything. The only thing that will come off is a bracket that is attached to the pump screws. It's really easy to do. I didn't turn the engine by sheer luck the slot was straight up and down (kind of) like it should be. If it wasn't it would have taken forever to get that thing on. The shaft that needs to go into the slot is much like a fish tail and just flops from side to side. So if you try it with the slot on the side it will be very hard, it would take more time to insert it than to do the whole repair job. After you remove it you can see where your slot is and rotate the crank not very hard to do as I did it to replace my AC belt. Let me know if you need anything else. Oh I also put a coat of silicon around the outer edge to help create a better sell I also put some on the O ring to hold it in place. Don't forget to remove your rubber cover on the little access nipple on the front cover before you start that thing falls off all the time, set it aside till your done. I just zip tied mine so it doesn't get knocked off. Hope that helps.

Thanks, that is all good to know!

If I do have to rotate the crank, where do you connect up the socket, is it in the middle of the drive pulley at the bottom of the engine?

Originally Posted by tampamark

Thanks, that is all good to know!

If I do have to rotate the crank, where do you connect up the socket, is it in the middle of the drive pulley at the bottom of the engine?

That's right it's in the center of the crank pulley. Just remember to use a long ratchet or at least a cheater bar it will be much easier.

Thanks Nitro!

Thank you!

I performed this DIY over the weekend, not that bad. Thanks to Nitro for the pic's, also I found a very nice DIY created by an owner of a 745. So it is very similar. Also, I went ahead and bought the oil pressure sensor and replaced at the same time. It is right underneath the pump and easy to get to when the pump is out.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=645452

Another DIY from an E46 owner:
http://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/forum/...repair-t89903/

BMW calls it the Oil Pressure Switch, part # 12617620512 from www.getbmwparts.com. cost was $19.96 with shipping and handling fee.

There is plenty of documentation on the web about replacing the switch and pump along with the seals needed, but nowhere did I find a comprehensive list of tools required. So I will post those now so it is documented. I gave myself plenty of time for tool runs, plus I have a Harbor Freight (torx sockets) and Sears (24mm and 27mm deep well sockets) 8 minutes away.

Here is what is required for Vacuum Pump:

Removing Acoustic cover - 10mm socket
Upper filter and intake tube - flat head screwdriver to loosen clamp
Power Steering/Dynamic Drive fluid line - 10mm socket
Vacuum Pump mounting bolts to engine - E8 (female torx) socket
Vacuum Pump disassembly - T25 Torx bit male
Vacuum Pump alignment at bottom crank (if the receiving slot in engine is not straight up) - 27mm deep well (I used a deep well, regular would work also).

For the Pressure Switch:

24mm deep well socket

In the other threads you will find info regarding BMP Designs who makes the replacement gaskets:

http://www.bmpdesign.com/product-exe...arch_model/154

Originally Posted by tampamark

I performed this DIY over the weekend, not that bad. Thanks to Nitro for the pic's, also I found a very nice DIY created by an owner of a 745. So it is very similar. Also, I went ahead and bought the oil pressure sensor and replaced at the same time. It is right underneath the pump and easy to get to when the pump is out.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=645452

Another DIY from an E46 owner:
http://www.bimmerforums.co.uk/forum/...repair-t89903/

BMW calls it the Oil Pressure Switch, part # 12617620512 from www.getbmwparts.com. cost was $19.96 with shipping and handling fee.

There is plenty of documentation on the web about replacing the switch and pump along with the seals needed, but nowhere did I find a comprehensive list of tools required. So I will post those now so it is documented. I gave myself plenty of time for tool runs, plus I have a Harbor Freight (torx sockets) and Sears (24mm and 27mm deep well sockets) 8 minutes away.

Here is what is required for Vacuum Pump:

Removing Acoustic cover - 10mm socket
Upper filter and intake tube - flat head screwdriver to loosen clamp
Power Steering/Dynamic Drive fluid line - 10mm socket
Vacuum Pump mounting bolts to engine - E8 (female torx) socket
Vacuum Pump disassembly - T25 Torx bit male
Vacuum Pump alignment at bottom crank (if the receiving slot in engine is not straight up) - 27mm deep well (I used a deep well, regular would work also).

For the Pressure Switch:

24mm deep well socket

In the other threads you will find info regarding BMP Designs who makes the replacement gaskets:

http://www.bmpdesign.com/product-exe...arch_model/154

Nice work Tampa glad my photo's helped wish I would have done a proper guide.
Maybe next time.

Cheers

Thanks Nitro and Tampamark.

Your pix & made this very easy to do. From my experience, I'll add a few minor details that might help the hesitant.

First, the torx 8 female socket is critical. I have often used plain sockets on male tox nuts, but in this case, if you strip the head, you will really lament.

My tips.
1) The hoses in front of the pump on the bracket seem stiff... but they do move far enough out of the way once the nuts are released. These two 10mm nuts are the first thing that should come off.

2) The third torx bolt is underneath and toward the left as you face the engine. This one is really the key reason a proper socket is needed. Its hard to reach, but you will find it.

3) Extra explanation of the need to turn the engine: The pump has a square metal tongue that fits into a slot in the shaft that is exposed in end of the head. The tongue in question can flop maybe 15 degrees in either direction so if this tongue is not vertical, when you install the pump, the tongue will flop down, and not align with the slot in the shaft (cam shaft i would guess) that drives it. If vertical however, lining things up is easy since the tongue stays put. Also, you don't need a socket and cheater bar to turn the engine. All I did was grip the serpentine belt and pull it while pushing balancer around firmly. She turned pretty easily until the slot was vertical. Do same to the pump and slide her in.

4) Hose clamp... I found that the permanent hose clamp needed tightening as the hose had dried out a bit. Easy. When hose is put back on, just take a pair of diagonal cutters and press the horseshoe tighter.

No more leak.

Thanks for doing the pictures. That's the hardest part with greasy oily hands!

Originally Posted by Skarv

3) All I did was grip the serpentine belt and the balancer and push firmly and steadily. She turned pretty easily until the slot was vertical. Do same to the pump and slide her in.

That is genius in it's simplicity!!! That would have saved me $10. No worries, maybe I will have a use for a 27mm down the road, still saved a bunch over having it done at a shop. But that is a great tip

Someone else in another thread likened the Vacuum Pump piece to a fish-tail flopping around. That is very accurate! Even in the vertical the pump is such a tight fit into the engine that I couldn't maintain it in a perfect vertical orientation and had to wiggle it a bit to get it to marry up properly. Would have been impossible in a non-vertical orientation on the engine side.

Thanks Tampamark. Necessity is the mother of invention. No sockets that large at the local hardware store.

One more rumination on this fix. I saw in some of the fixes on the net that some people were putting red permatex formagasket sealer on the o rings. Clearly the pump was designed for the o rings only. The reason I added sealer (sparingly) is twofold: The pump mounts to the head, and these tend to get quite hot. O rings in my experience lose their elasticity with this kind of heat. Two: The vacuum pump is "vacuum" for half of the stroke, but once past the vacuum port, it actually becomes a pressure pump for the second 'stroke' assuming you used some of the vacuum on your brakes or whatever. I believe that it is the pressure that makes this a failure prone point for BMW's. If it was always vacuum, then there would be no problem with oil leaks. My solution was a small bead outside the o ring, and just a tad to set the ring its self. I know it is belt and suspenders, but it can't hurt if you are careful.

In summary, this is an easy one for those of you on the fence.

I also was sparse in my use of Permatex. I used just enough to hold the Gasket in the channel. As has been mentioned it is needed to set it in and keep it there. Last thing I would want is to have it partially pop out as I was seating the Pump back on to the engine. To have that gasket end up pinched and compromised after all that would tick me off!!!

Originally Posted by Skarv

Thanks Nitro and Tampamark.

Your pix & made this very easy to do. From my experience, I'll add a few minor details that might help the hesitant.

First, the torx 8 female socket is critical. I have often used plain sockets on male tox nuts, but in this case, if you strip the head, you will really lament.

My tips.
1) The hoses in front of the pump on the bracket seem stiff... but they do move far enough out of the way once the nuts are released. These two 10mm nuts are the first thing that should come off.

2) The third torx bolt is underneath and toward the left as you face the engine. This one is really the key reason a proper socket is needed. Its hard to reach, but you will find it.

3) Extra explanation of the need to turn the engine: The pump has a square metal tongue that fits into a slot in the shaft that is exposed in end of the head. The tongue in question can flop maybe 15 degrees in either direction so if this tongue is not vertical, when you install the pump, the tongue will flop down, and not align with the slot in the shaft (cam shaft i would guess) that drives it. If vertical however, lining things up is easy since the tongue stays put. Also, you don't need a socket and cheater bar to turn the engine. All I did was grip the serpentine belt and pull it while pushing balancer around firmly. She turned pretty easily until the slot was vertical. Do same to the pump and slide her in.

4) Hose clamp... I found that the permanent hose clamp needed tightening as the hose had dried out a bit. Easy. When hose is put back on, just take a pair of diagonal cutters and press the horseshoe tighter.

No more leak.

Thanks for doing the pictures. That's the hardest part with greasy oily hands!

Nice addition to the post!!!! I never thought that the engine would turn by just using the belt
good to know. I also used permatex as long as it doesn't get inside the pump you are good! Nice job!!! Cheers!!

Originally Posted by tampamark

That is genius in it's simplicity!!! That would have saved me $10. No worries, maybe I will have a use for a 27mm down the road, still saved a bunch over having it done at a shop. But that is a great tip

Someone else in another thread likened the Vacuum Pump piece to a fish-tail flopping around. That is very accurate! Even in the vertical the pump is such a tight fit into the engine that I couldn't maintain it in a perfect vertical orientation and had to wiggle it a bit to get it to marry up properly. Would have been impossible in a non-vertical orientation on the engine side.

Hey tampamark the fish tail thing was me a few posts up...I remember fighting with it and it reminded me of that and it was the best way to describe it!! But your 100% right if not vertical you will be fighting that longer than doing the whole job!!!

Originally Posted by Nitrogen

Hey tampamark the fish tail thing was me a few posts up...I remember fighting with it and it reminded me of that and it was the best way to describe it!! But your 100% right if not vertical you will be fighting that longer than doing the whole job!!!

haha, knew I read it somewhere and it stuck with me.