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E60 (2004 - 2010)
BMW 5-Series (E60 chassis) was first seen in the Unites States in the fall of 2003 with a 2004 Model Year designation. The E60 is now available as a 528i, 528xi, 535i, 535xi, 550i and a 535xi sports wagon! -- View the E60 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 03-01-2014, 07:23 PM
rokdok rokdok is online now
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Location: Tucson
 
Join Date: May 2009
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Mein Auto: 2005 545i
Unhappy 05 545i Eccentric Shaft

I have a 545i with 138k miles on it. Running fine, but have been fighting the usual oil leaks (alt bracket, vacuum pump, upper timing covers, oil pan gasket). When I changed the oil pan gasket, much to my surprise, I found some rubber (from the valve cover gasket) and some plastic parts in the pan.



Being concerned, I tried to locate the sources of the plastic parts and concluded (wrongly) that it was from the timing guide/tensioners, since I couldn't see any other potential sources of this type of material in the engine. Pulled the engine and opened up the head covers and found the source of the plastic, which were the 6 (3 in each head cover) plastic sliding rails (TIS 2-11-12-2 pg 287 http://workshop-manuals.com/bmw/5_se...2tu)/page_287/) to align the bottom of the head cover to the head. the were broken from both sides by the mechanic that was a bit careless.



With the head cover off, I inspected the cams and found the eccentric shaft for cylinder 1 was worn through the oxidized layer (plasma nitriding) and was down to bare metal. There is an SIB regarding the intermediate levers and the eccentric cam; however, my levers were stamped 04-362 which were after the tolerance issues identified in the SIB. When I took of the lever, one of the rollers was difficult to turn, but loosened up after moving it around a bit.



Closeup of the eccentric shaft and intermediate lever roller - notice discoloration on the roller


Some fine metal was in the oil pan, so pulled one of the rod caps to inspect the bearings, and luckily, it looks good.

Did a leak down test also:
Cylinder - %Leakage (R - Rings, E - Exhaust)
1 - 7% R
2 - 5% E
3 - 6% R
4 - 15 E then 10% E (after tapping on the valve)
5 - 2% R
6 - 2% R
7 - 4% E (oil seepage on the valve also)
8 - 4% R (oil seepage on the valve also)

Exhaust leakage - need to inspect the valves and do some head work...


So, now a few questions:
1) What should I do with the eccentric shaft and intermediate levers? Replace Bank 1 shaft and all levers or just the shaft and the leveler causing the damage?

2) What about bank 2, replace the eccentric shaft and all intermediate levers, just the levers, or nothing?

3) I am assuming that if I replace the eccentric shaft and the intermediate levers with the same tolerance stamp (#2 in my case for Bank 1), this should correct the issue. Am I failing to consider anything relating to tolerances by doing this?

4) Does anyone know where I can find the plastic head sliding rails since they are not listed as a part on the BMW sites and a new covers are $400 each.

Thanks in advance for any assistance.

Rock
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  #2  
Old 03-01-2014, 07:36 PM
schpenxel schpenxel is online now
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Location: Greensboro, NC
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 3,209
Mein Auto: 2004 545i
Quote:
Originally Posted by rokdok View Post
I have a 545i with 138k miles on it. Running fine, but have been fighting the usual oil leaks (alt bracket, vacuum pump, upper timing covers, oil pan gasket). When I changed the oil pan gasket, much to my surprise, I found some rubber (from the valve cover gasket) and some plastic parts in the pan.



Being concerned, I tried to locate the sources of the plastic parts and concluded (wrongly) that it was from the timing guide/tensioners, since I couldn't see any other potential sources of this type of material in the engine. Pulled the engine and opened up the head covers and found the source of the plastic, which were the 6 (3 in each head cover) plastic sliding rails (TIS 2-11-12-2 pg 287 http://workshop-manuals.com/bmw/5_se...2tu)/page_287/) to align the bottom of the head cover to the head. the were broken from both sides by the mechanic that was a bit careless.



With the head cover off, I inspected the cams and found the eccentric shaft for cylinder 1 was worn through the oxidized layer (plasma nitriding) and was down to bare metal. There is an SIB regarding the intermediate levers and the eccentric cam; however, my levers were stamped 04-362 which were after the tolerance issues identified in the SIB. When I took of the lever, one of the rollers was difficult to turn, but loosened up after moving it around a bit.



Closeup of the eccentric shaft and intermediate lever roller - notice discoloration on the roller


Some fine metal was in the oil pan, so pulled one of the rod caps to inspect the bearings, and luckily, it looks good.

Did a leak down test also:
Cylinder - %Leakage (R - Rings, E - Exhaust)
1 - 7% R
2 - 5% E
3 - 6% R
4 - 15 E then 10% E (after tapping on the valve)
5 - 2% R
6 - 2% R
7 - 4% E (oil seepage on the valve also)
8 - 4% R (oil seepage on the valve also)

Exhaust leakage - need to inspect the valves and do some head work...


So, now a few questions:
1) What should I do with the eccentric shaft and intermediate levers? Replace Bank 1 shaft and all levers or just the shaft and the leveler causing the damage?

2) What about bank 2, replace the eccentric shaft and all intermediate levers, just the levers, or nothing?

3) I am assuming that if I replace the eccentric shaft and the intermediate levers with the same tolerance stamp (#2 in my case for Bank 1), this should correct the issue. Am I failing to consider anything relating to tolerances by doing this?

4) Does anyone know where I can find the plastic head sliding rails since they are not listed as a part on the BMW sites and a new covers are $400 each.

Thanks in advance for any assistance.

Rock
First, you really should have posted here first.. I could have told you exactly where all that plastic came from.

Second, no rough idle issues, at all?

1--you're going to have to replace that eccentric shaft for sure. How do the intermediate levers look/feel? I am not sure if they have to be replaced in sets or not. I would at least replace the one(s) that are on the same lobes that have all that wear. I would replace the needle bearings on both eccentric shafts too

2--if it ain't broke, don't mess with it. Unless you like spending money. That's my opinion anyways

3--nope. same tolerance classes, bolt it on, done. I bled all the lifters on mine as well before reassembly. Whether it matters or not I have no idea

4--if you are talking about the plastic pieces on the valve covers, you don't need them. Leave them off. If you ever need to pull the valve cover, it's easier if they aren't there and it's one less thing to fall apart inside the engine
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  #3  
Old 03-01-2014, 08:02 PM
rokdok rokdok is online now
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Location: Tucson
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 12
Mein Auto: 2005 545i
Thanks for the quick response. Yes, I should have posted here first, but looking on the bright side of this mess, I did find the eccentric shaft issue that is putting metal in my engine.

I have had the cold start rough idle problems for a few years now. Taken it to the dealer with the complaint numerous times, but they said there's no problem.

I agree, I don't like spending money if I don't have to either. But, while I had the engine out, I found: Torque converter leaking, coolant leak, rear main seal leaking. The other thought is that it's cheaper and easier to replace it now, while the engine is out rather than waiting until later. With this work done, it should drive great for a while. It is difficult knowing where to stop sometimes!

I did order the shaft, all the levers for Bank 1, and the needle bearings. There was only one lobe that was chewed up, the others were fine and the lever surfaces on the rockers felt very smooth; however, some of the other rollers showed some discoloration similar to the one in the picture so I decided to change them all. I was not planning to do Bank 2. Did you rent the BMW tool to disassemble and reassemble the eccentric / intake cam shaft assembly? From studying it a bit, it seems like its a convenient tool to hold the assembly and remove / install the springs. I didn't see that it was really necessary for alignment. What was your experience?

By the way, I studied a lot of your pictures when you did your engine rebuild and they came in very handy while I was working on mine. Thanks for taking the time to post!

Rock
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  #4  
Old 03-01-2014, 08:10 PM
schpenxel schpenxel is online now
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Location: Greensboro, NC
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 3,209
Mein Auto: 2004 545i
Quote:
Originally Posted by rokdok View Post
Thanks for the quick response. Yes, I should have posted here first, but looking on the bright side of this mess, I did find the eccentric shaft issue that is putting metal in my engine.

I have had the cold start rough idle problems for a few years now. Taken it to the dealer with the complaint numerous times, but they said there's no problem.

I agree, I don't like spending money if I don't have to either. But, while I had the engine out, I found: Torque converter leaking, coolant leak, rear main seal leaking. The other thought is that it's cheaper and easier to replace it now, while the engine is out rather than waiting until later. With this work done, it should drive great for a while. It is difficult knowing where to stop sometimes!

I did order the shaft, all the levers for Bank 1, and the needle bearings. There was only one lobe that was chewed up, the others were fine and the lever surfaces on the rockers felt very smooth; however, some of the other rollers showed some discoloration similar to the one in the picture so I decided to change them all. I was not planning to do Bank 2. Did you rent the BMW tool to disassemble and reassemble the eccentric / intake cam shaft assembly? From studying it a bit, it seems like its a convenient tool to hold the assembly and remove / install the springs. I didn't see that it was really necessary for alignment. What was your experience?

By the way, I studied a lot of your pictures when you did your engine rebuild and they came in very handy while I was working on mine. Thanks for taking the time to post!

Rock
I know the feeling on seals leaking.. I, grudgingly, replaced basically every seal there is. I don't remember what the front/rear main seals cost but I know I wasn't happy about it, lol. Better to do it now while it's out though I suppose.

I did not rent the tool/stand thing (if that's what you are referring to..). Somewhere in my pictures of disassembling/reassembling the intermediate levers/eccentric shaft assembly you'll see how I did it. I think I had them upside down basically.. I wanted to keep the tips of the intermediate levers from being hit on anything. I basically put the intermediate levers in place (with the whole assembly upside down) then pushed hard as heck on the head of a ratchet on the tox bolt and pushed the spring on that way.. sorry, hard to explain, but I think there are some pictures of it somewhere. Basically I assembled them from the bottom.

Yeah, worn intermediate levers are a very common cause for rough idle on cold starts.. my old engine had the same issue but luckily the new one is doing better. I thought about replacing all of those parts too but I was so far in I finally had to draw the line and go with what I had.. so far so good though

Let me know if any other questions. I've spent more time reading about these engines than I care to admit

Edit: You WILL need the can timing jig set.. bimmertoolrental has them for like $75 rental I think it was. That's where I got mine (if you go there, let him know I told you to )

Also, I saw an N62 timing set (the full one) for like $180 on ebay the other day. Might be worth checking out as well if you don't want to rent

Last edited by schpenxel; 03-01-2014 at 08:12 PM.
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  #5  
Old 03-01-2014, 08:27 PM
rokdok rokdok is online now
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Location: Tucson
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 12
Mein Auto: 2005 545i
I did buy the EWK BMW (N62/N73) TIMING TOOLS EXTRACTOR / INSTALLER TOOL KIT for $220. I didn't think about renting, but maybe I can set up my own rental business.

I ended up buying the BMW gasket sets which had most of the seals/orings/gaskets. Keeping track of all the parts to order and the best prices on the parts was a pain. Being an engineer, I worked up an Excel sheet where I can push buttons and it populates a parts list for me. Where did you end up buying your parts from when you did your rebuild?

Did you end up replacing your timing chains? I was told that the new style in the N62 versus older 540i's were pretty bullet proof.
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  #6  
Old 03-01-2014, 08:37 PM
schpenxel schpenxel is online now
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Location: Greensboro, NC
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 3,209
Mein Auto: 2004 545i
Quote:
Originally Posted by rokdok View Post
I did buy the EWK BMW (N62/N73) TIMING TOOLS EXTRACTOR / INSTALLER TOOL KIT for $220. I didn't think about renting, but maybe I can set up my own rental business.

I ended up buying the BMW gasket sets which had most of the seals/orings/gaskets. Keeping track of all the parts to order and the best prices on the parts was a pain. Being an engineer, I worked up an Excel sheet where I can push buttons and it populates a parts list for me. Where did you end up buying your parts from when you did your rebuild?

Did you end up replacing your timing chains? I was told that the new style in the N62 versus older 540i's were pretty bullet proof.
I did replace the timing chains, but I highly doubt it was necessary. I have never heard of one failing..

I ordered from a combination of ECS tuning, rmeuropean and getbmwparts.com. For hard to get parts, getbmwparts is the best IMO. There was a part that was completely back ordered for the entire country, ECS said 6-8 weeks to get, w/nothing they could do to get it faster for any amount of money.. getbmwparts had it at my door in under 2 weeks
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  #7  
Old 03-02-2014, 09:21 AM
banglenot banglenot is offline
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Rokdoc -- keep posting! People love this type of thread.

Schpenxel's thread was the best example of rebuild porn this place has ever had, with 26,000 views.

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  #8  
Old 03-02-2014, 11:59 AM
White94RX White94RX is offline
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By the way, I remove those plastic pieces inside the valve cover on every N62 cover i pull off. Never had a single issue as a result.
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  #9  
Old 03-02-2014, 01:45 PM
rokdok rokdok is online now
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Location: Tucson
 
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 12
Mein Auto: 2005 545i
We'll, I don't think I will have 27,000 views but I will post some rebuild porn later. Right now, my engine is out and stripped down to the block. Pistons and crank still in place. Heads are being fixed to correct valve leakage and to replace the seals. Parts were ordered (~ $3500 worth... Ouch!). Should be able to start to put it back together soon. Luckily my brother is an excellent mechanic and I know it will be done right and I get to learn a bit along the way.

I will take out the plastic guides... Will have all seals replaced in the entire engine so it should last a while.

Rock


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RokDok
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2005 545i - 137k Miles

Work Done (but not written up):
With a lot of help a Professional Mechanic:
- Engine Removal, Teardown, and Installation
- Cylinder Heads Valve Seals / Valve Lapping, Bank 1 - Eccentric Shaft / Intermediate Levers
- Replace Gaskets and Seals, Timing Guides
With a lot of swearing:
- Alternator Bracket Gasket, Brake Booster replacement

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  #10  
Old 03-02-2014, 03:24 PM
schpenxel schpenxel is online now
DIY'er
Location: Greensboro, NC
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 3,209
Mein Auto: 2004 545i
Quote:
Originally Posted by rokdok View Post
We'll, I don't think I will have 27,000 views but I will post some rebuild porn later. Right now, my engine is out and stripped down to the block. Pistons and crank still in place. Heads are being fixed to correct valve leakage and to replace the seals. Parts were ordered (~ $3500 worth... Ouch!). Should be able to start to put it back together soon. Luckily my brother is an excellent mechanic and I know it will be done right and I get to learn a bit along the way.

I will take out the plastic guides... Will have all seals replaced in the entire engine so it should last a while.

Rock


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Wow.. hefty bill! No telling what BMW would have charged though so what can you do..
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