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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 3 Series / 4 Series > E30 (1982 - 1993)

E30 (1982 - 1993)
God's Chariot. The E30 was produced primarily from 1982 through 1991. The cabriolet was the one exception which was produced through 1993.

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  #1  
Old 11-14-2012, 04:44 PM
WickedFast.Inc WickedFast.Inc is offline
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Re-assurance

First off is it normal that when i put my car in drive it pushes the back end down and in reverse lifts it up i know there is a bit of torque to these cars so i figure checking wouldnt be a bad idea

Second i have an dc to ac converter and hooked to it a small amp i have set up (its properly wired trust me on this) yet when plugged in my cars rpms will sometimes although rare drop to zero and kill my car now its only when plugged in it did it about 5 min ago and i unplugged it my car rolled about 5 feet and the rmps returned to normal. Any thoughts besides the alternator being weak i cant think of why it would cause this but even with a weak alternator i figure it shouldnt shut my car down

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  #2  
Old 11-14-2012, 06:01 PM
markseven markseven is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WickedFast.Inc View Post
First off is it normal that when i put my car in drive it pushes the back end down and in reverse lifts it up i know there is a bit of torque to these cars so i figure checking wouldnt be a bad idea

Second i have an dc to ac converter and hooked to it a small amp i have set up (its properly wired trust me on this) yet when plugged in my cars rpms will sometimes although rare drop to zero and kill my car now its only when plugged in it did it about 5 min ago and i unplugged it my car rolled about 5 feet and the rmps returned to normal. Any thoughts besides the alternator being weak i cant think of why it would cause this but even with a weak alternator i figure it shouldnt shut my car down

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  1. Normal
  2. I would imagine an inverter is too much of a draw on a brand new alternator. The car audio guys can prolly shed light on what sort of alternator is needed.
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Old 11-14-2012, 06:27 PM
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downhiller downhiller is offline
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what mark said. these only have a 90 amp alternator or at least that was one option when i changed mine out
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Old 11-14-2012, 06:28 PM
WickedFast.Inc WickedFast.Inc is offline
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If in fact it was the inverter would hooking my setup straight to the battery with a remote switch to accomidate on off so not to kill my battery it should stop. So if it does not im looking at a weak alternator ?

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Old 11-14-2012, 06:29 PM
WickedFast.Inc WickedFast.Inc is offline
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How big of an alternator do they make for this car

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Old 11-14-2012, 06:33 PM
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downhiller downhiller is offline
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question 1 from me, what the hell kinda amp do you have that needs to have a converter? all the ones ive dealt with you run one wire to the negative terminal, and run the positive through a power cap then to the amp.
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Old 11-14-2012, 06:41 PM
markseven markseven is offline
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Originally Posted by downhiller View Post
question 1 from me, what the hell kinda amp do you have that needs to have a converter? all the ones ive dealt with you run one wire to the negative terminal, and run the positive through a power cap then to the amp.
Marshall?
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Old 11-14-2012, 08:29 PM
WickedFast.Inc WickedFast.Inc is offline
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There is a short story for that when i traded for the car he gave me a headunit for it which i tested (i have pretty good knowledge of electronics)

It was bad so i dont have one
I made a mini stereo you hook up your phone or ipod to the amp the amp powers two speakers an 8 inch sub and 6 inch bose

Powered by a 12v. Dc laptop charger plugs into a wall for music anywhere

:/ its all i have for music in my car

But it plugs into ac converts 12 v dc and since i have yet to rig it to my battery and hook up a switch i plug it into the inverter running from the cig lighter

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Old 11-14-2012, 09:05 PM
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All that up-and-down converting to simply play music in the car is sort of like going 'round your arse to scratch your elbow, isn't it?

Ditch the converter and wall plug and power it with 12 VDC. If you have time to do all that fiddly nonsense with the converter/wall wart, you can surely find time to simplify it.

And, yes, if the system is loading that much with the converter/power supply/amp that it dims the lights or even kills the engine, the alternator is on it's last legs. Get it tested BEFORE it strands you. Battery, too. Get it load tested, not simply voltage tested. There is a difference.
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  #10  
Old 11-15-2012, 12:22 AM
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  #11  
Old 11-17-2012, 09:34 AM
WickedFast.Inc WickedFast.Inc is offline
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Ill look into that but the reason it has a wall wart is because its for parties and such for music i didnt origionally plan on putting it in my car i just thought of it one day the inverter is just so i dont have to unwire the power supply and rewire it later

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Old 11-19-2012, 01:29 AM
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Nick323 Nick323 is offline
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Thumbs down Transformers in cars

I put a 13.6v power supply in my Land Cruiser, so I can charge the battery as well as run the fridge should I stop at a camping site on my travels.
Then I put in a 150 W inverter, so I can charge the camera batteries, cellphone etc. in the bush.
Both are swiching and not Transformer converters and I still have "noise" in the system
This noise does interfere with crank trigger signals etc.
If you have a old type Oscilloscope float the probe near your wires and

If you want the Disco set-up at parties, I would make sure that all automotive electroncs WILL be switched off !
Simply put, you have so manny coils working of induction in your vehicle (Ignition,Injectors, triggers etc.) you do not want to wreck their output or input signals
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  #13  
Old 01-16-2013, 07:13 PM
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BigBoy740il BigBoy740il is online now
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Listen... Ditch the house amp and get an amplifier designed for 12V applications. The DC/AC convertion is impractical as well as inefficient use of power.
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