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7 Series DIY
Do It Yourself forum dedicated for 7 Series BMW Owners

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  #1  
Old 03-31-2014, 10:03 PM
745Luver1959 745Luver1959 is offline
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Location: OKC
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 20
Mein Auto: 745Li
Door Won't Open

Does anyone have a suggestion for opening the front passenger door. My door will not open from the inside or outside and the button will not come up even with the click of the FOB or dashboard device.
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  #2  
Old 04-01-2014, 06:18 AM
riff riff is offline
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Location: Portsmouth, NH
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 111
Mein Auto: 745i, 330Xi
RE:Door Won't Open

I've had the door bowden cable break on my driver side rear door resulting in the door not being able to open on the outside (being that it was the outside cable). Sounds like yours is a bit more complicated given that it is both inside and outside handles, and the door lock that are not operating. Pretty weird.

So....

Sounds like the door latch mechanism is hosed (not the cables).

Assuming that you can open the window try opening the door from the inside and outside handles at the same time - pull them at the same time. Try it a few times - sometimes this works although I don't know why.

If that doesn't work, and no one else comes up with a viable answer you can actually pry out the door handle from the door (it is a separate piece from the door). This isn't pretty (possible damage to door handle carrier and exterior bowden cable) but it will give you limited access to the door latch mechanism once it is out. It is unlikely that you will damage the door handle itself as it is a fairly sturdy piece - no guarantee of that though.

From there you can snake your hand under the door latch and try to lift the mechanism that holds the door to the body (just follow the cable down to the connection). Not pretty but I have done it. Use plastic tools to pry it out from the bottom of the door. I put a piece of a wood shingle below the handle to pry against so that I did minimal damage to the door. It takes some patience. You have to pry up a corner, hold it cracked open with a plastic tool, and continue to work your way along the bottom with another tool until it pops out from the bottom. Do not try to pop it out from the top as the handle is not meant to come out that way.
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  #3  
Old 06-15-2014, 01:58 PM
YevsE66 YevsE66 is offline
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Posts: 22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by riff View Post
I've had the door bowden cable break on my driver side rear door resulting in the door not being able to open on the outside (being that it was the outside cable). Sounds like yours is a bit more complicated given that it is both inside and outside handles, and the door lock that are not operating. Pretty weird.

So....

Sounds like the door latch mechanism is hosed (not the cables).

Assuming that you can open the window try opening the door from the inside and outside handles at the same time - pull them at the same time. Try it a few times - sometimes this works although I don't know why.

If that doesn't work, and no one else comes up with a viable answer you can actually pry out the door handle from the door (it is a separate piece from the door). This isn't pretty (possible damage to door handle carrier and exterior bowden cable) but it will give you limited access to the door latch mechanism once it is out. It is unlikely that you will damage the door handle itself as it is a fairly sturdy piece - no guarantee of that though.

From there you can snake your hand under the door latch and try to lift the mechanism that holds the door to the body (just follow the cable down to the connection). Not pretty but I have done it. Use plastic tools to pry it out from the bottom of the door. I put a piece of a wood shingle below the handle to pry against so that I did minimal damage to the door. It takes some patience. You have to pry up a corner, hold it cracked open with a plastic tool, and continue to work your way along the bottom with another tool until it pops out from the bottom. Do not try to pop it out from the top as the handle is not meant to come out that way.
I have a similar issue with my driver outside handle it usually opens on the third try. The first two tries I don't seeven feel any resistance. Kinda weird. When I get the time I'll take the door apart and inspect it.

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  #4  
Old 11-01-2014, 05:37 PM
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TurnzSr TurnzSr is offline
TurnzSr
Location: Michigan
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 105
Mein Auto: 2001 525iT
Riff

I have the identical problem with my drivers door. Did the metal piece on the door handle carrier that mates with the door handle flop loosely or was it secure? I haven't removed the carrier yet and won't if I do not have to. I am under the impression that the Bowden cable can be replaced without removing the carrier. Is that correct?
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  #5  
Old 11-08-2014, 08:38 AM
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TurnzSr TurnzSr is offline
TurnzSr
Location: Michigan
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Posts: 105
Mein Auto: 2001 525iT
Finished the repair yesterday. Replaced the broken bowden cable between the door handle carrier and the lock actuator. There is NO way to replace it without removing the carrier and the actuator. Putting everything back together takes patience and three hands. Suggest that you read the post about the vapor barrier before tackling the project.
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  #6  
Old 11-09-2014, 10:51 AM
riff riff is offline
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Location: Portsmouth, NH
 
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Posts: 111
Mein Auto: 745i, 330Xi
Quote:
Originally Posted by TurnzSr View Post
Riff

I have the identical problem with my drivers door. Did the metal piece on the door handle carrier that mates with the door handle flop loosely or was it secure? I haven't removed the carrier yet and won't if I do not have to. I am under the impression that the Bowden cable can be replaced without removing the carrier. Is that correct?
Mine was solid against the handle. If it flops around it may be because of the very slim piece of plastic that mates with the door has snapped off. When that happens you need a new carrier (personal experience). I have done a few of these since then on both my 745 and my 330XI. In the future, assuming it happens again, I plan on cutting to the chase and taking the interior door panel and vapor barrier off and doing a proper job with a clear view of the project (as oppose to digging around blindly to find the connection on the actuator). Having done it to fix both the cable and replace the window carrier I know that it is not nearly as daunting as it looks. The right tools, a peaceful afternoon, maybe 2 beers - you're done.
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