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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki |
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#1
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E-39 540I common problems
Hi fellow BMW enthusiast. This is my first post but I have viewed many over the years.
I have had my 2000 540 for about 6 years. When I first bought it had 73K now at 134000 miles. Car is tight and running great. Here is a list of repairs that I have done. Anything I should expect in the near future? Final stage resister-causing battery drain Alternator Water pump and T-stat Expansion tank Radiator hoses Right rear door vapor barrier repair Driver door rattle caused by a screw backed out on window guide Control arm bushings-I replaced the arms w/bushings. Tie rod ends Rear ball joints Rear sway bar link Valve cover gaskets Spark plugs Cup holder Have a great day! |
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#2
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Looks like you've got it covered for awhile. Now, go out and drive the snot out of it!
Early V8s ate their cats and O2 sensors at about your mileage. The later cars seem to have more robust cats. Valley pan and upper timing case gaskets, and maybe new chain guide rails.
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Ed in San Jose '97 540i 6 speed aspensilber over aubergine leather. Build date 3/97. Golden Gate Chapter BMW CCA Nr 62319. |
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#3
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Thanks. Pretty much what I thought. I think I can do all the work so...I'll drive on!
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#4
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Hey Fellow 540 Enthusiasts!
Thought I'd share one little tidbit that may help someone save money down the road.. I recently had my right rear taillight stop working on my 2001 540.. By all accounts I was told this was due to moisture getting inside and corroding the connectors and the only solution was a $500 replacement of the entire tail light assembly.. While I don't disagree with the assessment, I really don't want to shell out $500 at the moment... I'm not very mechanically inclined, I can do the simple things.. I pulled out the 6 pin wiring harness myself and could see all the corrosion that had crusted up on the female connectors.. So using the most mundane of tools, a steak knife and a wire brush I cleaned off as much of the caked-on mess that I could see and using the tip of the steak knife cleaned the holes in the connector as best I could.. Well, guess what? I plugged it back in and everything, the taillight, the turn signal, reverse light and turn signal are all working as good as new.. While I know this is most likely not a permanent solution and it's bound to reoccur in the future as long as the leak is still happening, I'll spend five minutes cleaning it myself a hundred times before I pay $500 for an entire new tail light assembly!! Hope this helps and gives someone another option to a costly repair.. Good Luck!! Jay R Potomac Falls, VA PS - I LOVE my 540, silver with gray leather, 19" Chrome Wheels, $8000 sound system, all windows tinted one shade illegal, showroom condition inside and out, kept super clean and meticulous, completely detailed inside and out weekly!! This car is a midlife crisis wet dream!! |
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#5
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I think one of the 'most likely' things that will cause trouble that's not listed above is that the thrust arms will need replacing. Symptom is shuddering through steering wheel when braking from 65 mph.
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#7
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Quote:
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#8
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Outstanding list.....great thread to refer back to.
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#9
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Basically all the obvious questions have been asked and answered.
The more difficult part is finding a 'canonical' thread (one-stop shopping) that has all the myriad answers in it. Here's just a sample found by typing /maintenance problems F3 in the bestlinks: - An official BMW CPO retailer operations manual (1) (2) & a BMW certified preowned pre purchase inspection brochure (1) (2) (3) & a BMW service/maintenance schedule & checklists I, II, and III (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) & a classic E39 inspection I, II, III DIY (1) (2) (3) & tips for BMW E39 150K mile maintenance issues (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) & a glovebox printout for the most often recommended BMW E39 fluids (1).
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Note: Your mission, should you decide to accept it, is to add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders. See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need, in seconds! |
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#10
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dont overlook the radiator needing replaced, mine was replaced at 62,000
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