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E90/E91/E92/E93 (2006 - 2013)
The E9X is the latest evolution of the BMW 3 series including a highly tuned twin turbo 335i variant pushing out 300hp and 300 ft. lbs. of torque. BMW continues to show that it sets the bar for true driving performance! -- View the E9X Wiki |
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#1
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2007 328i Sedan Rear brake + rotor change
Dealer now recommends I need to change my rear brakes + rotors within 2000 miles, has 3MM on rear brakes.
How do I know if I really need to change my rotors? I have 92,000 miles on the car and I bought it at 81,000. Should I go OEM brake pads / rotors or something else? Do I need to purchase the brake sensor as well? I plan on doing this myself as the stealership wants $800 for it so this will be my first time on a BMW changing brakes. Any links to rear brake pads + rotors + rear brake sensor would be much appreciated. I have looked at many and here is what I have come up with: Cross-Drilled Brake Rotors - Rear $145.80 Brake Pad Wear Sensor - Rear $18.00 Hawk HPS Street Pads - Rear $93.95 $257.75 before taxes // $300.19 with shipping/taxes Is that everything I need? |
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#2
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Pricing looks about right. The only other thing would be caliper grease. It may come with the pads.
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2008 335cxi:GRAPHITE METALLIC:JADE GRAY:GRAY POPLAR:PREMIUM:SPORT:HEATED SEATS:NAV:IPOD/USB |
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#3
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Yea believe it usually does, if not I can just run to O'Reilleys or something
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#4
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Brake job and reading the codes from a car computer must be the biggest money makers for the dealers. I don't know what the BMW dealer charges but the Ford dealer charges $150 to read the codes, takes what 5 minutes? I used to figure for every hour I spend doing work on a car it saves me between $100 and $200 with the brake jobs being the high end. Guess if they want $500 per axle for labor I will have to increase my number.
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#5
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Does your CBS system say it is time to change the brakes yet? You should listen to that and not your dealer. Mine told me I should replace at the rears at about 55K miles. I ignored them and my service indicator for rear brakes came on yellow at 69k and said to replace in 5K. I watched it count down to 400 miles then changed them at 74k. If your service indicator doesn't say you need them, then you don't need them. The service indicator will give you plenty of warning.
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#6
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It doesn't say yet, but I know when they put that key in their computer I saw that it said "Recommended rear brake change" and it was almost in the red. They said 2000 more miles. I am going to buy all the parts now though, I hear them squeak every now and then.
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#7
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Morketh. That is called "upselling." Replace them if you want to but your CBS system is integrated with the wear sensor and that measures pad thickness. I know it is only on pad per axle but it is also very reliable. Occasionally squeaks are a frequent complaint on the 3 series and usually isn't related to wear. That being said, since you are doing it yourself and it might make you feel better so ahead and do it. Do the forum a favor. Report back on this thread the actual thickness of the old pads and if they are thicker than 3mm let us all know who the dealer is so we can avoid them. The form you are talking about with "recommended rear brake change" isn't hooked up to your computer at all. It is completely separate.
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#8
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Alright well I will listen to you, I checked my car and it does say 2300 mls left until rear brake change. I will buy the parts now if no one has any issues with those parts I listed and it doesnt look like yall do, but I will wait to change them until the car tells me to.
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#9
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The 2,300 miles info on the CBS info up front would have saved a lot of posts. I assume you had no such info. The dealer was doing you a solid. Good luck on your repair. Make sure your new wear sensor is seated correctly in the pad and that the connector up under the felt wheelwell cover is connected securely. It is a pretty straight forward job. The only tricky part is adjusting the park brake if you need too. Part of the procedure is up near the handle under the boot and the other is actually adjusting the wheel inside the drum part of the rotor. You do that through a bolt hole.
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#10
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Yea I am going to run through a bunch of how-tos and see if I can't find some videos on how to do this because what you just said I know nothing about lol
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