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E34 (1989 - 1995)

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  #26  
Old 01-24-2013, 07:27 PM
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BMR_LVR BMR_LVR is offline
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Originally Posted by athan12 View Post
@BMR_LVR I just noticed we have the same Year and engine

UPDATE:

I just checked my coolant level after letting it cool down(really cold), and it's at normal level.
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It's Deja Poo - as in, I've heard this **** before.
Steve

Calypso Red 1992 525i with 200K miles

1991 735i - Sold
1992 525i - Sold
1995 325is - Sold
2000 528i - Sold

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  #27  
Old 01-25-2013, 02:50 AM
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luckydog luckydog is offline
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What are the symptoms of a defective fan clutch? i dont wana take it out if nothings wrong with it
the symtoms are over heating,use the seach engine to learn more.
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  #28  
Old 01-25-2013, 08:40 AM
athan12 athan12 is offline
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DOes warming up the car for 30 mins with the fan on full hot blast cause this problem? Cause I dont know why my car started overheating. I just wanna prevent doing it in the future
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  #29  
Old 01-25-2013, 08:51 AM
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Monsignor Monsignor is offline
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nope. car is built to idle, car is built to blow hot air if needed. car is built to do both. If it can't remain cool that is a different story. could be your fan clutch, could be a thermostat
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  #30  
Old 01-25-2013, 09:01 AM
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BMR_LVR BMR_LVR is offline
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Location: Asheboro, NC
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by athan12 View Post
DOes warming up the car for 30 mins with the fan on full hot blast cause this problem? Cause I dont know why my car started overheating. I just wanna prevent doing it in the future
Also, just as an FYI, the owner's manual is very specific to advise against a warm up period. I believe that it is because, when the car is cold, the computer makes it run rich which is much harder on the catalytic converter.
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Most problems are usually something simple !

Quote:
Originally Posted by noego View Post
It's Deja Poo - as in, I've heard this **** before.
Steve

Calypso Red 1992 525i with 200K miles

1991 735i - Sold
1992 525i - Sold
1995 325is - Sold
2000 528i - Sold

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  #31  
Old 01-25-2013, 09:22 AM
athan12 athan12 is offline
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Location: Nevada
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMR_LVR View Post
Also, just as an FYI, the owner's manual is very specific to advise against a warm up period. I believe that it is because, when the car is cold, the computer makes it run rich which is much harder on the catalytic converter.

So it is not advisable to warm up your car during very cold weather? I saw online that you only need 10 secs to warm up your car, after that your just wasting gas
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  #32  
Old 01-25-2013, 10:04 AM
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BMR_LVR BMR_LVR is offline
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Originally Posted by athan12 View Post
So it is not advisable to warm up your car during very cold weather? I saw online that you only need 10 secs to warm up your car, after that your just wasting gas
Yeah. With the fuel injected engines and the computer controlled fuel delivery, it's not necessary to "warm up" the car like it was in the day of pre-cat carbureted engines. Usually, once you crank the car and then put on your seat belt, do all of some of the little things (like checking your mirrors etc.), then the car is sufficiently warmed to get underway.

Now, having said that, it is wise to accelerate gently and not rev the engine a lot until it has reached nornal operating temperatures. All of the fluids need to come up to temp prior to any aggressive driving to prevent damage.
__________________
Most problems are usually something simple !

Quote:
Originally Posted by noego View Post
It's Deja Poo - as in, I've heard this **** before.
Steve

Calypso Red 1992 525i with 200K miles

1991 735i - Sold
1992 525i - Sold
1995 325is - Sold
2000 528i - Sold

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  #33  
Old 01-25-2013, 01:47 PM
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_Ethrty-Andy_ _Ethrty-Andy_ is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMR_LVR View Post
Yeah. With the fuel injected engines and the computer controlled fuel delivery, it's not necessary to "warm up" the car like it was in the day of pre-cat carbureted engines. Usually, once you crank the car and then put on your seat belt, do all of some of the little things (like checking your mirrors etc.), then the car is sufficiently warmed to get underway.

Now, having said that, it is wise to accelerate gently and not rev the engine a lot until it has reached nornal operating temperatures. All of the fluids need to come up to temp prior to any aggressive driving to prevent damage.
quoted for truth.

driving the car straight away heats the car faster than if it is idling, in turn saving fuel and wear. idling continuously creates a lot of carbon when not at operating temp.

to give you an idea, the thermostat in my 316i was broken so car was always run cold. put a correctly operating one in and now it uses 2L/100km less, or a round 8mpg better
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