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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 3 Series / 4 Series > E36 (1991 - 1999)

E36 (1991 - 1999)
The E36 chassis 3-Series BMW was a huge hit among driving enthusiasts from the first moment the car hit the pavement. The E36 won numerous awards over the years it was produced and is still a favorite of many BMW enthusiasts to this day! -- View the E36 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 05-22-2013, 07:12 PM
Nicky3 Nicky3 is offline
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Has anyone ever removed/replaced this Part?

Roof Ledge. # 11 in picture. How difficult is this to remove?
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  #2  
Old 05-22-2013, 09:19 PM
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drivinfaster drivinfaster is offline
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no. that's the shadowline, right?? that's 96 and newer?? looks like it maybe clips in.




df
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  #3  
Old 05-22-2013, 10:05 PM
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ZeGerman ZeGerman is offline
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Yeah, it just clips itself in, I think. The problem is that they are supposedly very difficult to install without bending them. Also, somebody I know had to have a new pair of shadowline trim pieces shipped to him THREE times because they were bent during shipping, and this was through the dealer. They are far from cheap, too. If yours aren't rotted down to the metal and rusting, I highly recommend using plasti-dip to clean them up. That's what I did to mine, and they came out excellent. That way you don't have to mess with removal, shipping, and installation (not to mention the cost). But if yours are down to the metal and rusting, replacement is probably what you're facing.

Before:


After:
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  #4  
Old 05-23-2013, 05:51 AM
Nicky3 Nicky3 is offline
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It's really not that bad, and yours looks great, but what is bad on mine is that little "nub" near the rear vent window that appears to be part of that roof ledge. It's rotting and appears to be all rubber. Is that a separate piece?
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  #5  
Old 05-23-2013, 06:05 AM
hnaz hnaz is offline
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I just did this on my M3. The new ones are a B-I-T-C-H!!!! Make sure the rear window is closed shut. And tight. Also make sure that you open the door and pull down on the seal a little to make it a little easier. Start from the rear and work your way to the front. The part that goes behind the front fender just slides in by pushing it in. Grease, soap, etc will not help. I tried. It is a pain.
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  #6  
Old 05-23-2013, 06:12 AM
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southpark11235 southpark11235 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nicky3 View Post
It's really not that bad, and yours looks great, but what is bad on mine is that little "nub" near the rear vent window that appears to be part of that roof ledge. It's rotting and appears to be all rubber. Is that a separate piece?
You should take a picture for us, but I am pretty sure the part you are referring to is a separate piece.
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Alex//1999 323is - power e46 M3 seats, style 43 rims, 328 exhaust, Z3 rack, Bilstein PSS coilovers

“We got about ten minutes before this entire county is up in flames. If you want to live, you’d better step on the gas! Oh wait is this a Tesla? Sh!t! Well, step on the prissy pedal, we're going to die!” – Cartman
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  #7  
Old 05-23-2013, 08:08 AM
hnaz hnaz is offline
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Originally Posted by southpark11235 View Post
You should take a picture for us, but I am pretty sure the part you are referring to is a separate piece.
No, he is talking about the aluminum gutter trim piece, not the rubber piece beneath the rear window that dry rots, cracks, and combusts in a nuclear explosion.
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  #8  
Old 05-23-2013, 09:55 AM
Nicky3 Nicky3 is offline
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No South Park is correct. The metal trim piece along the roof line is not that bad and I am going to take Carl's advice and plasti dip those. What I am talking about is that little piece in the bottom corner of the rear vent window. Mine is so rotted that I'm not sure if it was part of that metal roof ledge part or it is a separate piece. Now that I am looking closer on Real OEM, I think it's separate which is great. I will take a picture when I get the car back. I am getting the headliner done. If anyone is interested, I found a guy in central NJ, Fleetwood Interiors. He's a an old guy, 1 man operation, $400 including sun roof. I know he has to do good work because he had a 70 Hemi 'Cuda and a an old Astin Martin that he was doing the full interior on. Took me 3 weeks to get an appointment but I am picking up the car tonight. I'll shoot a picture of the part and the new headliner when I get the car back.
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  #9  
Old 05-23-2013, 10:33 AM
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southpark11235 southpark11235 is offline
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I believe this is the part you need.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/51368119963/ES95954/
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/51368119964/ES95955/
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...60&hg=51&fg=05
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Alex//1999 323is - power e46 M3 seats, style 43 rims, 328 exhaust, Z3 rack, Bilstein PSS coilovers

“We got about ten minutes before this entire county is up in flames. If you want to live, you’d better step on the gas! Oh wait is this a Tesla? Sh!t! Well, step on the prissy pedal, we're going to die!” – Cartman
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  #10  
Old 05-23-2013, 10:37 AM
Nicky3 Nicky3 is offline
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Mine is the 328is coupe. It's much smaller than that. It squeezes into the corner if the vent window.
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  #11  
Old 05-23-2013, 10:46 AM
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southpark11235 southpark11235 is offline
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I am guessing the part in red is what you what and the part I linked to is that part.
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Alex//1999 323is - power e46 M3 seats, style 43 rims, 328 exhaust, Z3 rack, Bilstein PSS coilovers

“We got about ten minutes before this entire county is up in flames. If you want to live, you’d better step on the gas! Oh wait is this a Tesla? Sh!t! Well, step on the prissy pedal, we're going to die!” – Cartman
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  #12  
Old 05-23-2013, 11:58 AM
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ZeGerman ZeGerman is offline
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If the part you are referring to is the circled portion in the photo posted above by Southpark, you will have to replace the entire lower plastic trim piece which runs along the bottom of the window. The rubber end is bonded to the plastic trim, so that's why you have to replace the entire thing, and the link Southpark provided is for the correct parts. Fortunately, they're just held on with double-sided adhesive, and they're cheap/easy to replace. It's just a cosmetic thing. It's also extremely common for the rubber window seal itself to crack at the corner of the window around this location. That's also a pretty cheap/easy fix, and they are part numbers 51368119962 (right) and 51368119961 (left). I'd recommend replacing all of it at the same time. I replaced all of it on my car around the same time when I plasti-dipped my shadowline trim, and also replaced the rubber trim around the rear window as well (also easy & cheap to replace). Getting all of that rotted and cracking rubber off my car made a huge difference, visually.
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Last edited by ZeGerman; 05-23-2013 at 12:05 PM.
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  #13  
Old 05-23-2013, 12:10 PM
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southpark11235 southpark11235 is offline
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^How did you get the old adhesive off without damaging the paint? I tried a heat gun, but it did not work. I ended up just using some 80 grit sand paper on my sander and sanding everything down to primer/bare metal.
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Alex//1999 323is - power e46 M3 seats, style 43 rims, 328 exhaust, Z3 rack, Bilstein PSS coilovers

“We got about ten minutes before this entire county is up in flames. If you want to live, you’d better step on the gas! Oh wait is this a Tesla? Sh!t! Well, step on the prissy pedal, we're going to die!” – Cartman
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  #14  
Old 05-23-2013, 12:24 PM
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ZeGerman ZeGerman is offline
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I used Goo-Gone, or Goof-Off, or whatever it's called and a plastic putty knife. Didn't hurt the paint at all. Even with that it was pretty damn hard to get the adhesive off, but with persistence I was able to remove all of it and achieve a 100% clean painted surface. There's definitely no need to use sandpaper, though. In that location, that's asking for rust issues down the road.
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1966 Pontiac GTO
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View my photos: Caught in the Wild
For sale: E30/E36 front sway links
For sale: OEM E36 328 catback

Last edited by ZeGerman; 05-23-2013 at 12:25 PM.
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  #15  
Old 05-23-2013, 12:31 PM
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southpark11235 southpark11235 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeGerman View Post
I used Goo-Gone, or Goof-Off, or whatever it's called and a plastic putty knife. Didn't hurt the paint at all. Even with that it was pretty damn hard to get the adhesive off, but with persistence I was able to remove all of it and achieve a 100% clean painted surface. There's definitely no need to use sandpaper, though. In that location, that's asking for rust issues down the road.
I was sanding everything in preparation for paint anyway. I was just looking for a quick easy way to get the adhesive off.
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Alex//1999 323is - power e46 M3 seats, style 43 rims, 328 exhaust, Z3 rack, Bilstein PSS coilovers

“We got about ten minutes before this entire county is up in flames. If you want to live, you’d better step on the gas! Oh wait is this a Tesla? Sh!t! Well, step on the prissy pedal, we're going to die!” – Cartman
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  #16  
Old 05-23-2013, 12:38 PM
Nicky3 Nicky3 is offline
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That's the part in the picture for sure. So the part # you gave me is for the coupe too? Thanks for the links! Carl, did you spray or brush on the plasti dip?
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  #17  
Old 05-23-2013, 12:49 PM
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southpark11235 southpark11235 is offline
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Originally Posted by Nicky3 View Post
That's the part in the picture for sure. So the part # you gave me is for the coupe too? Thanks for the links! Carl, did you spray or brush on the plasti dip?
It is only for the coupe.
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Alex//1999 323is - power e46 M3 seats, style 43 rims, 328 exhaust, Z3 rack, Bilstein PSS coilovers

“We got about ten minutes before this entire county is up in flames. If you want to live, you’d better step on the gas! Oh wait is this a Tesla? Sh!t! Well, step on the prissy pedal, we're going to die!” – Cartman
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  #18  
Old 05-23-2013, 12:54 PM
Nicky3 Nicky3 is offline
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Thanks! One other question, do those 2 part #'s extend to the front door too or are there different part #'s for the front doors? I cant go look because my car is in the shop getting a head liner. Thanks for all your help.
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  #19  
Old 05-23-2013, 12:58 PM
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ZeGerman ZeGerman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nicky3 View Post
That's the part in the picture for sure. So the part # you gave me is for the coupe too? Thanks for the links!
Coupe. Sedans do not have these trim pieces.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nicky3 View Post
Carl, did you spray or brush on the plasti dip?
I purchased a can of brush-on Plasti-dip at first, thinking it would be easier to apply and require less preparation time, but I tested it on something beforehand and it left brush strokes. After realizing that brushing it on would be bad, I then bought a can of the spray. I'm pretty crazy with prepping, so it took me a while to get it all ready to go, but my tape lines were perfect and it came out amazing. I didn't experience any overspray, but even if you do, Plasti-dip can be removed with some paint clay or similar. In the end, I think I put down 3-4 coats on each side.

Here's what my prepping looked like:

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1998 BMW 328is
1966 Pontiac GTO
2007 Subaru Impreza 2.5i 5-door
View my photos: Caught in the Wild
For sale: E30/E36 front sway links
For sale: OEM E36 328 catback

Last edited by ZeGerman; 05-23-2013 at 01:01 PM.
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  #20  
Old 05-23-2013, 01:04 PM
Nicky3 Nicky3 is offline
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It's worth the $200 savings to me to give it a try. Nice work!
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